Heating AC and Engine Cooling

Check the coolant level. You might just need a little extra anti-freeze. Thermostat may need replaced I just went through the same thing on my 98. If bleeding the air out of the system does not work try this. With the truck running check the temp of the coolant lines going to and from the heater core. (about 1-1/4" in diameter hoses that go to your firewall.) As you face the engine the left hose is the inlet hose and the right is the outlet hose. If the inlet hose is warm-hot to touch and the outlet hose is cool then you may have some blockage in the heater core. Now turn your heater fan off or to low speed and check the outlet hose again. If the temp is rising the you still have some flow through the core and may be able to flush the gunk out. I went to the hardware store and purchased a female garden hose replacement end that would fit a hose with a 5/8" ID. Take off the clamp that you would secure the hose with and just use the barb end to insert into your heater core hose. With the car off and the engine cool remove the right outlet hose from the waterpump. Then the left hose can be split at the union fitting that is about half ways to the heater core. Now you can try to flush the core. Insert the hose barb that you have purchased into the right outlet hose and move the left inlet hose away from the engine so that you don't spray water on the block or manifold. Turn the water on and flush the core. You will probably see some grey water come out of the inlet hose. Run till clear. Turn off the water. Remove the hose from the outlet hose and move to the inlet hose. Flush again with the water running in the opposite direction till the water is clear. I had to do this about 3 times till the core was clean. I did use hot water but I don't think that is a must. After you are done flushing replace the hoses and add coolant to the radiator till full. Start the engine and let it idle till the the thermostat opens. You should see the coolant rise and then fall in the radiator neck as the air is bleeding out of the system, replenish the coolant as it goes down. . While the system is bleeding you should be able to feel the outlet hose get warm. If it is you should have heat. Good luck and be careful.

The knocking sound could be the doors of the vents closing when you turn it off,they are controlled by vacume.Or it could be the plastic making the sound due to change in temperature. If it is a early to mid 90's Chevy it is most likely the actuator solenoid that controls the recirc or fresh air. If it is it will knock for about a minute and 30 seconds when you start the vehicle and about the same wheen you turn it off.

Try spraying the door latch liberally with WD-40, open and close the door several times, and then spray with a silicone

Here are responses: * Several things could be the cause. Low coolant. Heater valve. The belt. The compressor. Check these in the order shown. * You most likely to need a new temperature control switch in your heater/ac. This is the switch in the dash; easy to change.

THE BEST WAY IS TO SLIGHTLY ELEVATE THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE, JACK IT UP, THE REASON FOR JACKING IT UP IS TO ENSURE ALL THE BUBBLE FLOAT TO THE HIGHEST POINT AND GET OUT OF THE SYSTEM. NOW MAKE SURE YOUR HEATING IS SET TO "FULL HEAT" AND TURNED ON "LOW" FAN SPEED. THEN OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE LOCATED ON TOP OF THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING, IF YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IS EMPTY NOW IS THE TIME TO FIL IT UP, U SHOULD HEAR A GENTILE HISSING SOUND AS U POUR IT IN, THIS IS AN INDICATION OF THE AIR ESCAPING. WHEN U SEE THE COOLANT COME OUT THE BLEEDER U KNOW THE AIR IS GONE. TO MAKE SURE U GOT ALL OF IT OUT TURN THE ENGINE ON, WITH THE RESERVOIR CAP FOR THE COOLANT BOTTLE OFF, OPEN THE VALVE ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING AGAIN, KEEP ENGINE AT IDLE DO NOT REV IT, ADDING FLUID UNTIL THERE IS A STEADY STREAM DRIPPING OUT. LET ENGINE REV UNTIL COOLING FAN GOES ON WHEN IT GOES ON U WILL PROABALY HAVE TO ADD FLUID TO THE RESERVOIR DO NOT LET IT GO LOW KEEP IT CONSTANT. ONCE THE FAN HAS STOPPED PUT CAP BACK ON RESERVOIR AND YOU'RE DONE.

Always should replace thermostat at same time; if this was not done, do so. Rust and gunk in the cooling system from a corroded radiator will often jam and damage the thermostat. Conversley, sometimes a corrding thermostat sets of the entire process by both stricking and by sending hicks of rust to the other cooling system components (radiator and water pump). After engine idles for a while (but prior to overheating) gently squeeze the large hose attached to the top of the radiator. Is it getting warm? If not, the thermostat is likely not working. The thermostat should click and open the route for the top radiator hose, when the temp gauge is no farther toward "H" than at or just below the halfway mark, or just above, on most vehicles. Once the thermostat opens up the route for the upper radiator hose, the temp gauge should fall quickly. If the thermostat wasn't replaced, appears to not be functioning, and is easily accessible and visible, tap it with a hammer (not hard enough to damage it)and see if it becomes unstuck. If your vehicle has an electric fan, make sure it is coming on after a few moments. If it isn't, check that its fuse is OK, that the wire connections are solid, then check that the fan relay is not burned out. A heat sensor sending unit which controls activation of the electric fan could also have failed. In some 60's vintage vehicles, one could often stop overheating by replacing the stock 4-bladed fan with a 5-bladed fan. If you have an automatic transmission that is routed through your cooling system, and you've tried everything possible to correct overheating, your tranny may be on its way out. The problems your tranny may be having having operating normally could be effecting the engine temp. I agree with the changeing of the thermostat , Here is one more sug your radiator cap is not maintaining proper pressure get it pressure tested IF YOU DIDN'T CHANGE THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN DOING ALL THAT OTHER STUFF, GO AHEAD AND CHANGE IT. IF THE OLD ONE IS BAD IT WON'T HOLD THE PROPER PRESSURE AND THE COOLANT CAN BOIL= OVERHEATING! patricklaw1957@yahoo.com Check the fan to see if it's running. If the engine heats up and the fan isn't going, the fan motor is shot. If you have tried everything else and you are still having overheating problems you might have a bad head gasket. I didn't see what type of vehicle you were working on. I had a 1988 Dodge Caravan. I replaced everything in the cooling system including putting an oversized radiator in. The problem turned out to be a bad head gasket. I never observed any oil in the radiator. If the thermostat was replaced and water pump and radiator as you say then there are only a couple things that it can COMMONLY be.It always seems to me that people like to take out the engine before replacing the spark plugs.Take theese words of advice(alot of people over analyze things)99 percent of the time it's the easy stuff!your problem is probably the radiator cap.If it is not holding the proper pressure it will overheat.cost is about 4.95. could be bad head gaskit

Absolutely, carbon monoxide could be entering the vehicle due to a faulty exhaust system. Carbon monoxide is a poisonous gas that causes headache, dizziness, nausea and can render the victim unconscious, it can also be fatal. The vehicle should be inspected asap, and not be driven unless absolutely necessary, if it is driven all the windows should be open. If a person has any of the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning it would be advisable to seek a medical evaluation.

radiator fan relay has failed. It is found in the fuse box under the hood.

180-220

The resistor is located in the HVAC blower motor housing, under the glove box [passenger side front wheel well]. Its held in with 2 bolts. Unplug the harness, take out the two bolts and take the resistor card out of the housing. Installation is the reverse of removal.

nick.drombosky@gmail.com

I don't truly understand what you are asking but if the a/c system is cooling you don't need to replace the freon...

If you are trying to evacuate and recharge the a/c system then you will need to do the following..

1. Take the truck to any auto a/c shop and have them reclaim the freon..

2. Using a set of a/c gauges put the red hose on the high side and the blue hose on the low side then put the yellow hose on your vacuum pump..

3. Pull a vacuum for around 1-hour and then let it sit for 1-hour.

4. If it holds then add the correct amount of both freon and oil.

5. When finished the low side should be in the area of 35 to 40 psi and the high side should be in the area of 200 to 250 psi..

No. The dessicant will become saturated within five minutes of exposure to ambient air, and the whole thing must be replaced.

Low coolant?

Thermostat not opening?

Control cable not working?

Plugged heater core?

Heater core "airbound"? Low coolant?

Thermostat not opening?

Control cable not working?

Plugged heater core?

Heater core "airbound"?

Although I can't say for sure, in most Toyotas the relay is usually located under the hood in a box, or housing where the majority of relays and fuses are grouped together. There's typically a black plastic cover you remove to expose the relays. Either on top of, or underneath the plastic lid, there should be a layout with descriptions corresponding with the relays and their locations within the box. There should be one labeled "cooling fan". As for what the actual relay looks like, the top portion is round, with a silver-colored metal surface. If you pull out the relay, it will have 4 terminals, two pointing vertically and two horizontally, sort of like a "T". If the numbers on the old relay are still readable, you might see something like 12V 15A, and an OE #90987-03001 or 056700-4670. If you've found something like this, you most likely have found the fan relay. On some Toyotas, there may be more than one relay in the housing that are exactly the same. If this is the case, you can test by swapping relays, using one of the others and plugging it into the slot for the fan relay. Keep in mind, the Camry also has a 'radiator fan switch' which controls the fan. If you're having a problem with the fan not coming on, this might be another part to check out in case a new fan relay doesn't solve the problem. Good luck!

Hi i have 2000 Chrysler 300m. when i put the ac or heater a bad smell comes out. how can i get rid of the odor

it's ripe.

This is how I did it. Its only an idea and if you not comfortable doing this HAVE IT DONE at a repitable shop.

I just changed my AC clutch in my 97 Ford Contour. I have a 4 cyl. DOHC 16 valve engine. You need to raise the car on the passenger Sid, support it with a jack stand, remove the tire and the Splash cover. I also removed the splash cover in the front of the car and the inner fender cover to be able to get to the ac clutch a little easier.

You Need Snap ring Pliers, and a couple of screw drivers or pry bars.

You will need to remove the Belt to the power steering and AC, 1- belt on the 4 cyl model.

It wasn't to bad took me 6 hours. The AC clutch comes in 3 parts. There is an outer pick ring this drives the compressor. An inner Pully assemble with a berring in it, and the %$#@^ Magnetic clutch actuator. The Reason I said %$#@ actuator is because I should not have removed it, it was a pain in the ( | ) to beat back on, and its just an electric magnet, it was fine.

When you remove the outer Clucth pick up ring, be very very careful when you pull it off as there is a spacer (looks like a washer) in the pick up ring where the bolt goes through. YOU WILL NEEED TO MATCH THIS SPACER to the new ones you will get and you will get more then one. The spacing is very Important for releasing and engaging the AC Clutch. Once you remove the Outer AC clutch pick up bolt wiggle the piece off and FIND The SPACER if it had one(Its in the pickring center). You will Now need SNAP Ring pliers remove the snap ring holding in the Pulley assemble.

Once you get the snap ring out, Be very careful and using 2 screw drivers or short pry bars pry on the left and right side of the pully assembly from the compressor side of the unit. If you pry the very outer edges, it should slide off, (very tight fit) With out disturbing the Magnetic acuator ring. Once you get it off, you can decide weather or not you want to try and take off the Magnetic pick up ring. I MADE THE MISTAKE of removing it.

If you do decide to remove the Magentic ring, you will have to use the old pulley and beat the old berring out of the pulley to use the old pulley to install the new Magnetic pick up ring. It was a pain in the ( | ) to beat the new magnetic ring on a little at a time first left then right. Once the ring is almost seated you will need to turn the pully arounfd and use the back side against the magnetice oick up ring to get it fully seated back on the compressor.

Once the Magnetic ring is on or if you were smart enough not to remove it you need to put the New pulley assembly on and get it seated. I used 3 old Strut washers and a longer bolt to slowly tighten the new pully assembly on. This worked all the was up to 1/4 of an inch then I noticed the AC compressor was turning. So Using the OLD Outer pick up ring with No spacer in it I tightened it against the New pulley assemble Useing a screw driver to hold against the little circle thingys on the outer ring and I sent the new Pully assembly home. CHECK THEN ALIGNMENT OF THE AC PULLY WITH the CRANK SHAFT PULLY, use the belt to make sure they are inline (with in reason these ain't't racing motors)

Them I removed the old Outer ring and installed a New Snap ring to hold the pulleys in place. The Snap ring should go on no problem if it doesn't its not seated enough and this will mess up yer belts send the pully assemble on more if the snap ring does not seat.

Once done with the snap ring and pully, NOW YOU MUST MATCH THE OLD SPACER to A NEW SPACER. This is important so the AC clutch has room to engage and disengage. The new clucth came with 6 different thickness washers, I picked the one that looke like the old one to me, and it worked fine. Eye them up, you don't need a micrometer to match them, you will be able to see the difference. Once you've picked your spacer drop it in side the shaft end of the new Outer clutch ring. Using the new bolt that came with the kit put it threr the hole to hold the spacer and put the outer ring back on the ac compressor.

Put the belts back on and assemble the car and Fire it up.

, Most of my time was spent figuring out how I was going to get that $^%&%%^$%$^%^%^$^$ Magnetic ring back on the compressor in such a small space to work. I did so it is possible, its slow and steady using the old pulley assemblt with out the berring in it, and beating it with a hammer and my 12 inch (1/2 drive) extention bar. (ping ping ping... my ears are still ringing)

But when your done, you wife will kiss you full on the mouth, greese and all.

Try taking the car in for a rad flush. You may have a restriction. Check also that the hoses are not kinked, block heater and rad.

Go to your local Parts store and ask for a back flush kit and chemical flush. Follow the directions on each.

suppose to be behind glove box its a big relay . about 3" x 1" and 2' tall

On some cars there is a door that opens and lets cold air through the heater core thence giving warm to the interior of the car. Something in the operation of this door is apparently off. It could be as simple as an adjustment on the temp. control switch, but some doors are operated by air or electricity.