Heating AC and Engine Cooling

On some cars there is a door that opens and lets cold air through the heater core thence giving warm to the interior of the car. Something in the operation of this door is apparently off. It could be as simple as an adjustment on the temp. control switch, but some doors are operated by air or electricity.

If it is cold outside then yes it is best to plug it in to make for an easier start and less stress on the engine.

why does the fans not work when car is running (on the 1999 Montana car)

most likely a blown fuse or worst case the fan is no good. to the original question on why the air is cold at idle than warm during acceleration most likely low coolant is causing this

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Low Coolant Probably caused by a blown head gasket.

I had the same problem with my Montana until I had the head gasket replaced. It started the way you described for about a year and kept getting worse and worse over time. The worst part of it was that it began becoming noticeable at about 40,000 miles and I didn't have the head gasket replaced until about 67,000.

Good luck and have it checked for a head gasket leak.

if a small gasket crack is suspected then it may be possible to fix by using

a bottle of Bar's Head Gasket Repair. It is a permanent repair and only costs

around $10-$12. Much easier than breaking down to the head gasket.

The water pump and/or an electric motor.

Here is advice: * Flush engine block and then remove the rad and have it cored at a rad shop. That will make a huge difference. * Truck has new "tall" radiator of aluminum so more capacity and better efficiency. New AC long block engine as well. Exhaust manifolds run cherry red color. Suspect low fuel pressure...aftermarket regulator set at 13 psi, where stock was 11 psi, has not helped. * if exhaust manifold runs red, your timing needs to be adjusted. i am gonna say at the moment it is to far advanced. i had it myself in a gm engine many years ago sure was a pretty color. PS; fuel pressure has nothing to do with engine temperature

Depends on the engine, but 180 or 190 is a pretty common temperature for a thermostat to open and release coolant from an engine.

IF it is leaking you're not going to have high pressure. Coolant is under pressure so it does not boil, which make bubbles, bubbles do not transfer heat to radiator walls where it can be dissipated into the atmosphere. It's the same reason it takes water less time to boil at high altitudes: because there is less pressure.

Not necessarily, if combustion gas is pushing out water from the cooling system it will over heat at normal speeds even when idling.Check thermostat is opening ,radiator, pipes and waterways for blockage,air flow through radiator,fan/water pump belt tention and get a proper service /check over.To find out if the gasket is leaking air into cooling system, fill up by the radiator cap when cool,fill expandtion tank to line, make sure there are no other leaks,run and check again when cool,if the rad is full to the top and tank is on line your gasket is probably not the problem.

In my case, the combustion chamber could be leaked and filled with coolant water and then it turned out white smoke coming out from the exhaust. The coolant level will be lower in the result of overheating.

You have several options. 1. check that fan is coming on at correct temp. If too high replace sender / control unit. 2. If correct but because of use/ambient temp vehicle is still running to hot then following are pos. A) If a temp thing (going up a mountain etc.) turn heater to full put blower on max. B) For long term you need to obtain a temperature adjustable control unit (auto electricians) so that you can lower temp which fan cuts in at - this will also increase duration of fan use. C) Obtain specialist fan with better cooling properties than orig (Kenlow ).

I just fixed the same problem on my 96 park ave. You probably have a broken air mix actuator. There are 2 on the car but the one on the passenger side seems to fail most often. Open the glove box all the way down. You need to fold in the rubber stoppers attached to the back side of the glove box to release it all the way down. Once you do that you will see a silver metal arm that connects the actuator to the vent door on that side of the car. If you can move it back and forth, you have a broken gear inside the actuator. Local parts stores by me don't carry it so I bought mine through GM Parts Direct for $50 plus shipping.

Cats spraying your car with urine.

The Freon probably needs to be recharged. Any repair shop should be able to do this. They should also test the system for leaks to see why the Freon leaked out to begin with.

Definitely.

answer yes the mouse has probaly also chewed thru wires causing a short

she isn't cool at all you idiot !! =0

You can't reroute it with the existing belt. You could, I suppose, install a smaller belt that would work. Try a belt for this same model engine, in which the vehicle did not have A/C. That should work.

<<Palmboy - 051605>>

For a 1994 Lumina APV (3.8 L), I bypassed the A/C compressor with a replacement serpentine belt that was 73" in length for ~$21 @ Advanced Discount Autoparts (original belt is ~102"). My problem was an A/C clutch that was making a grinding noise.

I determined the new belt length using a piece of cord to measure the new (required) belt length by routing it around the engine accessory components (i.e., Power Steering Pump, Tensioner, Alternator, Water Pump, etc.). I purchased two belts, one @ just over the measured lentgh (73") and one @ under (72") - then returned the 72" belt.

This seemed to work fine (so-far-so-good) for getting my vehicle back on the road without the risk of the A/C clutch siezing and throwing the belt.

PB

Losing engine coolant but never see evidence of leaks.

White smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

Exhaust has a sweet smell to it.

Milky substance showing up on the dip stick or under oil cap.

Excessive pressure building up in cooling system.

If the a/c is blowing hot air then first check the freon levels in the system...

If the a/c system is full but shuts off while accelerating then check the power and ground going to the clutch coil and the pressures switches as well....

If the a/c has issues while accelerating then you need to check for a vacuum leak which is a very common problem with a lot of vehicles.........

white smoke = Leaking water (anti-freeze) head gasket, bad water pump... cracked block... p blue smoke = burning oil i would suggest a leaking head gasket

Here are several answers and opinions from FAQ Farmers: * A water pump usually starts to leak with just a little weeping out of the hole in the bottom. But if you ignore that, it can leave a puddle as it gets worse. * A water pump has a drain hole for when the packing around the shaft goes bad. Depending on how bad the pump is, it can trickle or it can pour coolant out. If you are finding coolant leaking out of the water pump, replace it immediately, before the engine is damaged.

Anything from 180 deg F to 230 deg F. Newer engines are designed to run warmer than in the past.

Pretty positive they don't have one.

Is that an old mechanical fuel pump/carburated engine? If so, you probably have a condition called "vapor lock". The mechanical fuel pump gets weak and when the fuel warms up it literally boils inside the pump, creating a pocket of vapor that won't pump. To test the hypothesis, next time it happens try pouring water on the fuel pump to see if it will start. If it is injected, that isn't the problem, but I think the 70's vintage engines were still carburated. Feel free to contact me directly if you need to discuss the situation further. replace the ignition coil.

The heater is set on recirculate the air of the cabin. Set it on normal (from outside the car)

You have to move a button on the console to take air from outside the car or else the air will be too moist from all the humidity that accumulates in the cabin.

Also the engine temperature must be hot enough. I usually run my car at least 5 minutes driving it downtown before it is hot, during cold winter days.