Heating AC and Engine Cooling

if it is an electric fan then yes. it does. and it should be located on the fan itself. if not, follow the wires till you find it. shouldn't be far.

It will probably overheat. answer= thermostat will not open and will prevent the flow of coolant . which will in turn do damage to your engine

There is a high pressure switch in the front on the ac line near the drivers light.(right on the ac line) disconnect the wire plug and use a bobby pin or simular(cotter pin) and put it in the plug. turn on the ac abd the fan should come on. I actually have mine taped up in the summer because my ac doesn't seem to put out cold air when my car is a a red light or stop sign. you will see this really works . Also i bougt 5 new relays ay a junk yard and it still did the same thing so i just jump the plug and tape it up real good and mt ac works fine.

Detach the wire and unscrew the sensor.

Look at the rear of the radiator approx. 1/3 down from the top

Check the temperature sensor

a temperature sensor that detects when the car reaches a certain temperature before it overheats which kicks on the fan to cool the engine. the fan may not be grounded properly which causes the blowing of fuses to prevent a fire.

There is a sensor located at the bottom of the coolant reservoir.

A head gasket set and new head bolts.

The relay is sticking. Replace it.

I have just purchased a 1998 jeep 5.9 limited and had to replace the cooling fan motor. There is a 60 amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood on passenger side. My fan motor replacement cost only 150.00 dollars instead of 700.00 dealer cost. I found the directions on the Jeeps unlimited web page. If you are unable to find it email me at felinezoo777@verizon.net and I will try to give you the ins.

If the electric cooling fan(s) are not coming on that may be the problem.

Make sure you have enough coolant, but if that's not it, check the water pump.

If your Silverado is like most other cars today, it will use vacuum hoses to change the distribution between each setting. The vacuum in the hoses is created usually by the engine, and transferred to the switch you use in the cabin. Now if there is a slight split or crack in one of the hoses or one is loose this will lose the vacuum, which is why it will not change setting because there is no negative pressure to force the setting to change.

They run at a higher temperature so the oil breaks down faster.

If the engine is cool or cold, this is normal.

If the engine is normal operating temperature, then possibly the thermostat is jammed/stuck, an air lock maybe or a blown head gasket. You may have a faulty radiator cap also or the coolant could be too low.

get a ratchet and a socket that fits the nut on the pulley. turn either left or Right, not sure been a while. one of the two will move the tensioner enough to get the belt off...

Is this a pickup or a van?

The last Dodge pickup I had to change the evaporator on was a 2000, so maybe it's the same.

1-Evacuate the system.

2-Pull the A-Pillars off. These are in front of the driver's and passenger's side windows. Disconnect any electrical connectors.

3-Remove the kick panels. These are down low forward of the front doors. Disconnect any electrical connectors.

4-Remove the center console, if equipped. Disconnect any electrical connectors.

5-Disconnect wiring connector from blower motor. If there's a green and/or red wire at this connector, push the terminal out of the connector and cut any tape along that wire(s) that you can see.

6-Clamp off and remove heater hoses at connection near firewall (underhood.)

7-Disconnect AC line quick connects near firewall underhood.

8-Remove the 6 to 8 dashboard mounting bolts that are exposed after removing kick panels and center console.

9-Tile dashboard back and remove from vehicle. Two people are required, unles you want to rip upholstery.

10-Remove 5 fasteners on underhood side and three fasteners on interior side holding the HVAC case to the firewall.

11-Disconnect electrical connectors as needed.

12-Remove case from vehicle.

13-Remove several screws.

14-Split halves of case.

15-Pull the core out. Note that if you purchased a non-Mopar core, it doesn't look quite like the one you just pulled out of your truck and won't fit in the same place.

Under the plastic cover over the radiator is the CCRM constant control Relay Module which controls the fan, AC & fuel pump and is in turn controled by the PCM Power Control Module which is above the blower motor behind the glove box and is fed various input from coolant, air & temp sensors.

First, look for obvious signs of damage. Is there leaking around the radiator? Is the alternator or serpentine belt damaged? If it's not cranking, it might be a bad battery. If it's cranking but not catching, borrow, rent or buy a code scanner and see what the on-board diagnostics says. It's a simple process and will generally give you all of the information that you need.

Check to see if it is getting power - if so could be bad fan motor - if not check fuses, relay, and temp sensor

there is one of two things that would do this,1: themostat is stuck in closed postion,2: water pump is in need of replacement.in this year of van I would be replacing therostat first ,this costs much less and is not that hard of a job.If the problem still remains then check to see is pump is pumping. Either one of these things will cause over heating and fan to remain on .

the sensor is located on the left side of the engine above the header. you need to remove the air intake to see it, let alone get to it. hope it helped

Simply bypass the cooling fan thermostat .G

Hey Roger===If you stated the kind of car and engine you had it would be easier. Just guessing, it is either the cable to the throtle body or carb hanging or the idle solonoid needing cleaning. GoodluckJoe

A sizable vacuum leak could also do that.