Locks and Latches

Just under the left side of the dash!

theres a bar that connects the back of the door handle to the latch that breaks loose from the handle from time to time. you would to to remove your door panel to see if that bar is still running from the outside handle straight down to the latch

Hi I have just reset the combination (3 thumbwheels, 0-9 on each thumbwheel) on a pair of CARLTON SUITCASEs. These are the hard shell type with 2 wheels, 2 cam-action side hook/clasps and 1 cam-action top combination hook/clasp with folding handle.

TOOLS- 1 bright light(I used a pencil LED torch), 1 thumb (preferably still attached).

METHOD- have the case facing you, so you can read the CARLTON on the lock, shine the light on the righthand side of a thumbwheel, if you look closely in the half millimetre gap, you can reflect light from metal below. if you push the thumbwheel round 1 full turn, you will have noticed a slot which didn't reflect. Align all 3 slots, and read the pattern. Because this isn't the combination, but the barrels are in the right order, so keep them in this pattern, then rotate all 3 thumbwheels at once. When the slot aligns with the internal mechanism, the button will retract and the case will open. This procedure takes about 30/45 seconds. Once the case is opened you can reset the combination in 10 seconds. On the underside of the combination unit is a metal tab, slide tab to the right, reset the combination, write it down in a safe place, slide metal tab back to the left, finished. I hope these instructions are useful, and i hope your not an airport baggage handler...

When trunks get older, sometimes the latches get stuck. To fix them a person needs to add oil to the latch to loosen up the parts of the lock and turn the key hard.

The key fob battery in a 2008 Chevy Cobalt is changed by opening the case with a flat blade screwdriver or coin. The battery can then be pulled and a new one put in place.

One thing that you can do but it is extremely difficult is manually open the hood. You have to locate where the hood latch is in the middle of the car and push it out so the hood can be free. I would wear something for your eyes because you might need to grease it up before can even move it. The latch can be reached behind or in front of the radiator so make sure to check with a flash light. Also check if there is anything jammed, you can never be too sure.

I locked my keys in my trunk and called a wrecker who had a slim Jim. The problem is that the car is designed to "relock" almost immediately after the slim Jim opened the lock. If you are using the slim Jim at the driver's side, someone on the passenger side has to be quick to open the handle before the lock relocks. It took us many tries before we got it. My problem was that I thought I could use the button in the glove box to open the trunk. But good old Toyota made it so that is disabled if you get into the car by some other manner other than the key or remote. I ended up having to go to a local dealer and getting them to cut me new key.

Something is wrong with my 1991 Toyota Corolla Dx's trunk latch. It will not let me close the lid shut and it stay shut. It will not stay latched. There is nothing no obstruction. Can you help me? Thanks

maybe it is because the outside locks are broken

Call a locksmith or some towing company have slim Jim and will unlock your vehicle for you for a small fee.

Make sure you are not using the valet key. Amanti's come with a set of keys (2) that can unlock everything, driver's door, glovebox and trunk lid. There is also a third key designated for valet use, allows you to disable trunk release and then lock glove box with master key. This way the valet cannot look throughout the trunk or glove box but he can lock the car and start it.

Not hood latch, but hood alignment. I own a 1994 F150. I even own the "book". The passenger side of the hood is fine. The driver side had a bad hood spring link assembly. If I tried to close the hood, this assembly would sometimes lock up and cause the hood to be bent. Must I buy a hood to make the adjustment or can I adjust and re bend the hood by sitting on the side that is bent?

you will need to replace the bad hood spring and then the hood.

I have an 89 that occasionally gets stuck in the down position.
Use a screwdriver or a butter knife or a pen.
Poke down on the bottom half of the latch (not the top part on the hatchback above your head).

if you have a drill and center punch it is easy,

1. remove steering wheel, turn stalk housing, and everything else attached to the column

2. expose the lock cylinder housing (aluminum thing attached to steering column)

3. draw a line 10 mm from the end of the aluminum housing on the top inside (the part facing the steering wheel and shaft)

4. put a key into the lock (as long as it fits, this is for measurement purposes)

5. draw a line continuing from the key, down the side of the housing.

6. where the lines meet drill a 1/8" hole and then drill a second hole along the 10mm line north of the first hole

7. insert small center punch, or small Allen wrench into hole, press the clip inward, and pull the lock out

if you need better directions, or pics refer to the following thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4283438

With the dreadlocks unlocked you will see two red levers. Push them in and rotate. This has put you in a program mode, set the lock to a new combination the release the red levers to set the new code into place.

This can be rather tuff........you must grab the hood release cable from the underside of the vehicle. Sometimes, you can trip open the hood latch with a long screwdriver, if you know where to do it.

Sounds like one of the door switches or wire running to them is shorted to ground, since the indicator and cab light are looking for a ground to come on. Some vehicles will not allow power door locks to work while doors are ajar.

The door lock actuator needs to be replaced if it only has enough strength to bring the lock down half way. To replace the door lock actuator remove the door panel and unplug the old unit. Be sure to note where the locking mechanisms are set to correctly place the new unit.

TRY SPRAYING, FORCING WD-40 "USING THE RED TUBE" IN THE LOCK. MAKE SURE TO HOLD A RAG UNDER THE LOCK TO SOAK UP THE OVERFLOW. THEN SLAP THE DOOR SHARPLEY WITH YOUR OPEN HAND WHILE JIGGLING THE KEY UP, DOWN, IN, OUT, LEFT TO RIGHT BUT DON'T BENT THE HEAD OF THE KEY.

The most commen problem with all power options are the switches themselves. If you have both driver and passenger switches and both are not working and they went out at the same time it could just be a fuse. If they quit working independent of each other it is probably the switches. To replace them (depending on the location) either a plate comes off to give access to the switch(then just pry or pull it out)or a door panel has to come off to give you access. Replacement switches can be purchased off e-bay(best price) or the dealer.

Go to your dealer...it is a dealer programable option along with follow me home lights, day time running lights and unlock door sequence

First off you may what to check in your fuses ALL of the fuses in my 95 ford T SHO 3.1 the fuse blew and there was 2 fuse boxes both containing a fuse saying it was it *on in the car drivers side that flips down on under the hood drivers side by the windshield* after replacing them my door locks/electric seats worked properly again

your battery needs replacing but there is a small black screw looking thing on the side of each door just below the locking mechanism.turn each one seperately to manually lock each door.this is reversed when you open the doors either by card or lever on inside of doors.

that is the way it was designed,it is a safety feature so ou can not lock keys in vehicle