Serpentine Belts

Check under the hood on the fan cover there is usually a diagram located here you could also check a "Chilton" manual for this diagram if it is not under your hood. I have taken these on and off several times once you get the hang of it, it seems pretty easy. sometimes you will need someone to help you pry the tension pulley using a socket/wrench with a cheaterbar. Good Luck!

i had the same exact vehicle. you don't release the tensioner, you'll have to take the presure off with a ratchet and socket. on the front of the tensioner pulley there is an arrow that has "loosen" next to it . get a socket that fits on the bolt in the middle of the pulley. ratchet the pulley towards the loosen side. there will be alot of tension so be careful. the belt will loosen when you turn it. slip the belt off the pulley and very slowly release the pressure off. it will pull against you alot but it will stop. just reverse this when putting the belt back on. also try to not take all the belt off if you don't have to, this will help w/putting the belt back on.

In a mechanic's manual - sometimes you can buy one from a Ford dealer

NOT HERE

replace the spring loaded belt tensioner as it's the only thing that will keep the serpentine belt tight.

Anti clockwise is a normal bolt removal procedure. Does it have an "L" stamped on it? - meaning it's a left hand thread and removal is clockwise.

penguins, 70 feathers per square inch

To route the belt WITHOUT the A/C or Smog Pump you should follod this route moving clockwise. Around the ALTERNATOR pulley, below the tensioner pulley, over and around the POWER STEERING pulley, Below and around the CRANK pulley, above and around the WATER PUMP pulley, back to the ALTERNATOR pulley THIS SHOULD BE THE BEST ROUTE ALSO You Must get a shorter Serpentine belt. The tensioner pully will tighten it up a little bit but not enough. You must find a shorter belt that still has 6 ribs on the underside. Im unsure of the exact length you will need but im assuming it's going to be around a 60" belt. Another option is buying the Smog pump and A/C eliminator kits so you san use your belt you have on now and still get the same effect. I hope I have been of some help to you.

These instructions are for the 3.1 L engine with serpentine belt.

To change the belt, you need to remove the engine mount first. But before you do that, you must support the engine so it won't tilt after you remove the engine mount bolts. You would also need at least one helper. Here's step by step: 1. Use a jack and a long enough wooden block to cover the oil pan. Larger block will distribute the forces better. Don't use only a jack or a small block, it might crack the oil pan. Note: normally, you shouldn't lift engine by the oil pan, you should use an engine hoist, but carefully support with wooden block works. 2. Slowly raise the jack to support the engine. 3. Unscrew (Counter Clock Wise) the 2 bolts and 2 nuts of the engine mount. It's on the passenger side right next to the serpentine belt. 4. Loosen the tensioner bolt, and remove the old belt. You may have to raise the engine a bit to get a big enough gap to slide the belt through. 5. Put in the new belt and route it according to the diagram, you may have to leave it off one of the pulley because the tensioner is so tight. Don't worry, you'll slide it on later. 6. Put tighten the tensioner back on. Make sure the round metal pin goes in the appropriate slot. 7. Here's the hard part, putting the belt entirely on the pulleys. You have to either: a) Put a 3/8" ratchet in to the slot near the tension pulley that says "LIFT" and pull really hard to compress the spring, while putting the belt on the one of the pulley. Unless you are Arnold, you will need help. b) Pull a rope behind the tension pulley arm and pull while pushing with your left arm on the pulley arm to compress the spring; then get another person to hook the belt on one of the pulleys. 8. Put the engine mount back on. 9. Test run the engine to make sure you didn't mess up. Turn on accessories like A/C. If the temperature goes way up, you messed up. The water pump might be spinning the wrong way.

Note: If you don't have a good floor jack, you can jack up the car, place a support under the oil pan, then slowly lower the car until the engine is supported. In this case, jack-stands or blocks under the frame are a good idea to avoid lowering too far.

HI, I JUST CHANGED MY SERPENTINE BELT ON A 1996 JEPP CHEROKEE CLASSIC 4.0 WITH AIR COND. AND WITH POWER STEERING.ON MY MODEL, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE AIR BOX, AS THE 7 INCH ADJUSTMENT SCREW IS ADJACENT TO THE THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING, NOT UNDER THE POWER STEERING PUMP ACROSS FROM THE AIR BOX AS SOME DIAGRAMS SHOW.ON MY MODEL, YOU HAVE TO LOOSEN THE THREE BOLTS ON THE POWER STEERING PUMP ITSELF FIRST USING A 13MM BOX WRENCH. NEXT, YOU HAVE TO LOOSEN THE LOCK NUT ON THE BELT TENSIONER IDLER PULLY BELOW THE POWER STEERING PUMP USING A 15MM BOX WRENCH. THIS PULLEY IS NOT SPRING LOADED, AND DOES NOTHING BUT SERVE AS A LOCK NUT AND BELT AROUND AS MENTIONED ELSEWHERE IN THIS PAGE. LAST, YOU HAVE TO LOOSEN THE BELT TENSIONER SCREW ITSELF USING A 13MM SOCKET AND RATCHET OR A BOX WRENCH. LOOSEN UNTILL ALL THE TENSION IS OFF THE BELT. YOU MAY HAVE TO TAP ON THE POWER STEERING PUMP ITSELF TO MOVE THE BELT OFF. THE DAMN FAN SHROUDS ARE IN THE WAY ON MY MODEL, BUT IF YOU HAVE PATIENCE, YOU CAN UNROUTE THE BELT AND REMOVE IT WITHOUT LOOSING YOU TEMPER. NEXT, CATCH A BREATH, GET YOUR NEW BELT. AND STUDY THE DIAGRAM ON THE FAN SHROUD OR IN THE REPAIR MANUEL YOU ARE USING.(NOTE), IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A DIAGRAM BEFORE HAND, MAKE ONE ON YOUR OWN AND KEEP IT HANDY. INSTALL AND ROUTE YOUR NEW BELT PER DIAGRAM AND TAKE YOUR TIME. YOU CAN INSTALL THIS BELT IN DIFFERENT WAYS AS TO TURN THE WATER PUMP BACKWARDS AS DESCRIBED ELSEWHERE IN THS PAGE. A NO, NO!!! AFTER YOU INSTALL BELT, TIGHTEN THE TENSIONER SCREW TO WHERE YOU HAVE 1/4 TO 1/2 INCH OF PLAY WHEN YOU PRESS IN ON THE BELT. NEXT, TIGHTEN YOUR LOCKNUT ON THE IDLER PULLEY, THEN TIGHTEN YOUR THREE BOLTS ON THE POWER STEERING PUMP HOUSING. ALL DONE!!! START THE ENGINE AND LET IT RUN FOR 3-5 MINUTES. IT SHOULD SEAT ITSELF. CHECK FOR NOISE AND THAT 1/4 TO 1/2 INCH OF PLAY AGAIN AND ADJUST ACCORDINGLY. I HOPE THIS MAY HELP SOMEONE OUT. HAPPY HOLIDAYS !!!

first, find the tensioner pulley, hook a ratchet onto it. You might need a cheater bar or pipe on the end of the ratchet handle, depending on your arm strength. Pull the tensioner pulley up and slip the belt off the pulley. All vehicles usually have a belt diagram for installation on the engine shroud or hood, depending on your particular model and year. Simply follow the diagram given and slip the belt around the pulleys, hook the ratchet on the tensioner pulley, pull up on it and slip it on the last pulley. It is usually easier to make the alternator the last pulley to wrap the belt around, because you will have the most room to manuever withy your hands.

I don't know which engine the above answer refers to, but that's not it works for the inline 6 cylinder engine, which is one of the most popular. Unfortunately the I6 doesn't have one of those nifty spring belt tensioners. Instead you have to loosen a number of bolts on the power steering pump brackets. Then loosen the locknut on the belt tension adjuster, which is also part of the power steering pump bracket. Oh, before you start this, open the airbox, remove the air filter, and remove the three bolts that hold down the air box. Now remove the air box so you have some room to work.

I like to use several ratchet extension together, along with a universal joint and a speed wrench, to screw the ajusting bolt in and out. To remove the belt, screw the adjusting bolt in until the belt is loose enough to slip off all of the pulleys. There should be a belt routing diagram decal under the hood, but if not, draw a simple diagram. Put the new belt on. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use the extension/universal/speedwrench assembly to tension the belt. Then tighten the locknut on the adjuster, tighten all the bolts on the power steering pump bracket, and install the airbox and filter.

The Haynes repair manual for the 1984-2000 Jeep Cherokee shows the power-steering pump being the tension device, and suggests that you pry on it to tension the belt.

On my 1989 Cherokee inline 6 cyl, that's not the case ! As mentioned above, there is a long (about 6-7 inch) adjuster screw underneath the power steering pump that is adjusted to change the serpentine belt tension.

Loosen the nuts holding the power-steering pump, then also the slider/nut that travels in the slot along the tension adjuster screw.

Taking out the airbox will help you keep from dinging up the radiator with your wrench or ratchet; my radiator was already badly scraped up in that area, which led me to properly locate the tensioner screw.

Yes - I spent about ten minutes looking for a tensioner on my 89 Cherokee's I6. The sucker kinda looked like my Suburban with the shiny pully up top. Unfortunately, that pulley does nothing (accept for looking pretty). Anyway, I'm off to play games with the power steering pump. BTW, what engineer made this belt change so dog-gone hard? I mean, the methodology is circa like 1955. This is one place where the good folks at Chrysler totally dropped the ball.

I just changed the serpentine belt on my '97 Cherokee 4.0. first you need to loosen the two top power steering pump mount bolts. then loosen the nut in the center of the idler pulley.(below the power steering pump) then wind the tensioning bolt at the lower left side of the power steering pump bracket counterclockwise ( lower left side looking at engine from the front)belt should slide right off. installation is the reverse. Caution! be sure to route the new belt per diagram. ( decal under hood or one that you drew before starting this job) or you might run the water pump backwards NOT GOOD ! tension belt to 1/4" to 1/2" with the lower tension bolt (clockwise) run engine for 3 to 5 minutes to seat new belt then recheck belt tension. You're looking for 1/4" to 1/2" belt deflection when you push in on belt between pulleys. Don't forget to tighten the nut at the center of the idler pulley. I used ba haynes manual. You can get it most auto parts store for about $18 chilton is also a good source as far as tools 13mm 15mm and wrenches. I don't remember wrench size for the adjusting

remove old belt install new belt you're welcome

There are three belts on the Mazda mpv's. In order from the front of the van One for the air conditioner pump One for the power steering pump. and one for the alternator and fan,water pump. Both the air conditioner belt and the power steering belt are tentioned by a idler pulley,on both you must loosen the shaft nut in the centre of the pulley, then loosen the tentioner bolt on the top of the bracket all the way so the pulley travels all the way to the bottom of the slot carefull not to go to far. For the alternator,water pump belt loosen of the bolt on the alternator adjust bracket,loosen the bolt on the swivel point of the alternator, rotate alternator forward to loosen the belt. On the 96-97-98s you must take care that the alternator belt is the exact one ( 17400) 14-0632-4 a thicker belt will not fit past an obstruction on the left lower side of the motor pulley, You need metric sockets and wrenches. Tighten belts so that you can depress the 1/4" . check after a month for adjustment, or if the belt slips adjust a little tighter.

Spray hairspray on the belt if it is making the noise or replace the belt or the pulley if its making the noise.

there is usually a diagram under the hood

How do I change the head lamps in a 2005 Mailbu

Loosen the bolt right below the tensioner screw and then tighten. Once it is tight enough, tighten the bolt back down and your done. Hello' Unless you are talking about the timing belt, there is not serpentine belt on a Lexus ES300. The timing belts is the one that runs thru the two camshaft, the water pump and the crankshaft. This belt can easily be tighten just like the above user say, however, be very carefull with the tensionomer, cause it has a pressed shaft on it that coul be dangerous.

I will presume that your vehicle has air conditioning. There is a spring loaded belt tensioner that needs to be 'relaxed'. You will need a 15mm socket with a ratchet, and a short length (12-18")of pipe that can fit over the ratchet handle (allows for more leverage). The tensioner is located ( as you stand facing the engine from the passenger side fender), to the left of the water pump and above and to the right of the crankshaft. Position the belt around all the other pulleys and idlers first (sites such as Dayco have belt routing diagrams). Place your ratchet on the 15mm nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley, and pull your lever(pipe) towards the front of the van (clockwise). This will rotate the tensioner downwards, allowing you to slide the belt onto the pulley. Note- when placing your ratchet onto the nut, you must put it 'through' the belt first, otherwise when you rotate the tensioner you will not be able to slide the belt into position because your ratchet will interfere.

Go to this URL, it will tell you everything you need to know!

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/10/b6/be/0900823d8010b6be.jsp

When I changed mine, it made it much easier to leave the belt off of the alternator, but on the pulley itself. This way you don't have to worry about looping the wrench you are trying to use, and once you release tension enough you can put the belt over the alternator.

This is honestly a very easy belt to replace. I myself have had to put my belt back of multiple times over the last 6 months because for some reason it keeps falling off. But I've done it so many times now that i don't even need to look at the belt diagram anymore and you only need 3 tools. A breaker bar a size 14mm ratchet head and i use a flat head screw driver to take off the radiator hose that runs from the radiator to the engine that way you have plenty of room for your hands while putting the belt on.

On 1997 through 2002 years on the Expedtions with V8 engines it is impossible to do so. It is however possible to do with the V6 model.

There should be a tensioning pulley that can be fitted with a socket and wrench. You can then pull the pulley thus loosening the tension on the belt and then pull the belt off. Install the same way.

It is probably the same as with the 2002 4Cyl Highlander. First, take pain-staking-care in making a sketch of the relative positions of the pulleys the serpentine belt snakes around and the path the belt takes around each pulley. There is one and only one correct path the belt must take around these pulleys. Then compare your sketch to the description below and note any differences. Pulleys labeled below as 3,2 and 6 are toward the front of the car and are roughly in a vertical line with each other. Pulley 1 is above 5, both are left of the vertical line-up of 3,2 and 6. Pulley 4 is directly left of pulley 5 and close to the firewall. (1)-tensioner idler pulley about 3.5" diameter (2)-water pump pulley about 5" diameter (3)-alternator pulley about 3.5" diameter (4)-power steering pulley about 6" diameter (5)-main crankshaft pulley about 9" diameter (6)-air conditioner compressor about 6" diameter DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CUT THE SERPENTINE BELT TO REMOVE IT. The belt tensioner could be damaged if this is attempted. The tension must first be relieved on the serpentine belt in order to remove it. This is done by applying clock-wise torque on a 19mm "nut" just above the tensioner idler pulley. The idler pulley is located just above the main crankshaft pulley and is to the left of the water pump pulley. The nut is a molded part of the tensioner bracket and therefore does not "unscrew" like a conventional nut. Its purpose is solely to provide an attachment point for a long lever used to compress the spring loaded tensioner in order to provide slack in the belt. Use a shallow 19mm socket on a 3/8" ratchet. As the ratchet handle does not provide nearly a long enough lever for applying torque on the nut, I slid a 2ft. long, heavy duty aluminum pipe with a 3/4" to 1" inside diameter over the 3/8" ratchet handle. This extended the effective length of the ratchet handle and provided ample leverage to compress the tensioner spring. The tensioner moves quickly with a lot of force when counter-clockwise torque is applied on the 19mm attachment point, but moves slowly, with resistance when a clockwise force is exerted. This is known as an oil-damped spring. A clockwise force must be applied to slacken the belt, therefore the starting position of the ratchet handle must begin in about a 1 o'clock position as viewed facing the right fender-well. From the front of the car, pull the extended ratchet handle toward you by applying slow, steady pressure as you pull the ratchet handle toward the front of the car. You must apply this steady force for about 3 to 4 seconds in order for the idler tensioner to compress fully. While keeping the tension idler spring compressed, slide the serpentine belt off of the water pump pulley. Then slowly release the pressure on the ratchet lever until it is lax. Leave the socket and ratchet handle in place. Now you can remove the belt from all of the other pulleys. Putting the new serpentine belt on is easiest with the right front wheel removed and the small, plastic splash guard, that is to the right of the main crankshaft pulley, rotated up or down out of the way. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the splash guard. There is one more bolt holding this splash guard on behind the plastic, lower front wheel well liner but I found it unnecessary to worry with it since the small splash guard pivots out of the way just fine with only the two 10mm bolts removed. You will be accessing belt placement by standing in front of the vehicle and through the right-front fender-well by sitting on the ground facing the right wheel-well. Expect several trips back and forth these two locations installing the new belt unless you have an extra pair of hands helping you. As you thread the belt around the pulleys, make sure the v-grooves in the belt mate to the v-grooves on the pulleys and are exactly centered on each pulley. Note that only two pulleys do not have grooves, the tensioner idler and the water pump. They both have smooth surfaces where the belt contacts. The flat side of the belt makes direct contact with these two smooth pulley surfaces. Begin by looping the belt around the alternator pulley (3), positioning the belt around this pulley clockwise, from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position, the 12 o'clock end will go left and down toward the firewall to the top of and counter-clockwise around the power steering pulley (4). The 6 o'clock end will go counter-clockwise, top to bottom, around the water pump pulley (2). At this point, it is time to re-compress the tensioner idler in order to provide enough slack in the belt to make it easier to thread the belt around the remaining pulleys. The belt runs counter-clockwise around the top of the power steering pulley (4), and exits from the bottom of this pulley toward the right, and up, to the top of the tensioner idler pulley (1). The belt goes clockwise around the top of the idler pulley exiting about the 7 o'clock position toward the top, left side of the crankshaft pulley (5). The belt continues counter-clockwise around the crankshaft pulley exiting at the 6 o'clock position to the right, then counter-clockwise around the bottom of the air conditioning compressor pulley then ending at the bottom of the water pump pulley. Check all pulleys and make sure the belt is still centered on them. You can slowly relieve the torque on the tensioner bolt if all looks good. Reinstall the splash guard with the two 10mm bolts. Reinstall the right front wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Pat yourself on the back and say "Well done". Just hope you never have to replace the belt tensioner as I have. It involves all of this plus more, but you will save at a minimum of $350.

First you need a breaker bar and 19mm socket to fit the "tension bolt". Turn tension bolt clockwise to release tension in order to remove the serpentine belt.

there is no tension bolt ! if the belt is loose it is either a stretched belt or the tensioner is bad. the only bolt on a tensioner is the bolt that goes through center of tensioner to hold it to the engine. no adjustment. good-day ! on the tensioner there are a few marks to tell you if it needs replaced, it should be on the center mark if all is ok. if its on any other mark. replace belt or tensioner if needed. the marks are on the front side of tensioner accross from the center bolt. alt, water pump, etc, are all stationary.

Go to your auto parts store where they know you and ask for a print out diagram for you car's serpentine belt and they will do it for you, I did it the other day!

you might want to try and change belt pully tensioner

See "Related Questions" below for links to online serpentine belt routing diagrams