Toyota 4Runner

You use an AC Flush & Purge machine, if you don't have one of those then you disassemble the entire system and used compressed air with flush solvent to clean the system. NOTE: trying to flush the system with compressed air is not recommended as it is very ineffective.

If your steering wheel is lock then it is tricky. Pry out the silver washer from the ignition key lock. Then you will need to cut the ignition switch cover with a hex saw. This process means you won't be able to use your key. You will need to get a new iginition key lock and key. If your steering wheel is not lock then you can save your lock and key. you need to put the key in run. This will match the notch on the cover and the lock. You need a special tool that has two prong that goes into the two notch. You can get it from Mercedes dealer. You should be able to pry the ignition lock and the cover out of its place.

Your engine size is needed but your looking at aroun 100+ Here is a link that will help you out http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=123&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Starter

Depends on if you are doing the work yourself on not. If so then you need a couple of days and a few parts. A head gasket and new bolts will run around $130.00 If you need the full kit then that is around $300.00. That's just parts now. If you have a shop do the work then they can do it in a day, maybe in 6 hours or even 4 if they are really good. They will charge from 30 to 60 and hour and also for the parts they use. From there you can figure some values.

You can download it from the Halfords website.

JBL, and others, have controls that do multi taskx. So on some you pull out the knob for volume and then push it in for balance control etc. So ensure the knob is in correct position first. Then as far as failure is concerned, Over time the button gets broken internally and wont function. It can be fixed but sometimes the cost is greater than half the cost for a new one or even more common almost the cost of a new one. Then again if this isn't the type of control you have and its a digital style control? The contacts get dirty or worn from so many pushes over time. These can sometimes be cleaned after taking the front apart. Other things can be broken or pulled out wires and connections.

Try replacing the ignition module. It is located in the distributor. This is what gives the PCM the reference to turn on the fuel pump, fire spark, etc.

This truck has a timing chain, not a belt. The chain will last longer than a belt and should not be replaced until it fails.

well not knowing excacly what it does prior to stalling I will just gives some ideas that come to mind. Is the car getting gas, Check the fuel pump enertia switch located in the trunk and make sure its fully reset, I had a p73 police vic die on me and this was the fix, also this same car sometimes would die or wouldn't restart after it was warm because of a bad ecm/pcm power relay located on I believe the passanger side, Its a black fuse/relay box. you will see a red power lead connected to the battery. It should give a location diagram under the box cover. look at the model number on relay, if I remememer right I swapped it with the air conditioning relay to get home,

If the car stalls and sputters prior to dying check Fuel pressure/ filter, vacum lines in relation to the EGR evap gas return. It could be a number of things, need to know a bit more about the to give a better answer.

Chi

I dont think there is one. the level of fluid is regulated by filling at the upper plug until it flows out. The lower plug is for draining.

The only thing I can think of without getting inside the case is possibley one or more of the mounting bolts for you Transfer case to the frame may be broken or loose. This could become a major problem if not fixed quickly. the only other thing would be to check the ujoints along the driveshaft especially the ones closest to the transfer case. Crawl under when the truck is NOT running and wiggle the drive shafts or tried turning them back and forth to see if there is an unusual amount of slack. Anything beyond those things is beyond me, I Personally have a 3 inch lifted 92 Cherokee and have been fighting the vibration bug since I put the lift in

Generally when the bearing is starting to go it will be noisy and you can change the pitch of the noise by steering the car slightly left to right while driving at 50 mph.If there is no noise then get a second opinion but don't continue to drive it without having this checked out.

Check fuel and fire. Pull a plug and smell for raw fuel, and check the plug and see if there is fire to the plug. If I checked the plugs and it is not getting fire or fuel at all what could cause that problem.

One relay for each function (same part #) is used to operate the fog lamps or the fuel pump or the starter solenoid in many Toyotas.

There is a Plastic shield mounted directly over the top of the fan. You have moved this shield just enough for it to touch the top of the fan hub as it spins. you need to get back up the ladder and see what you need to do to move this shield back up away from the fan by a couple of mm. Cheers.

It is a repair for a worn out and smoky engine. Valves are cleaned and replaced if necessary including seats and seals, the cylinders are honed and new piston rings are installed to return the engine to a clean running state. If it's to that point I would put in new bearings as well and call it a rebuild, it's a waste in my mind to rebuild the top end when it is worn out and ignore the bottom.

Call the manufacturer.. they'll be able to send you a replacement.

Pull the wheel front and rear bearing and clean out the old grease. You dont have to be perfect but do a good job. Then clean all the parts of as much of the old greas from the outside and make note of the order for the parts. Pull the seal and replace this part.

Now all is clean and ready to re-grease. to pack the bearing you can do it old school or new school. Us old school will place a wad of grease in the palm of one hand and hold the bearing in the other. Then with a push and slide motion you can scrape the edge of the grease and shove it in one of the cracks of the bearins. This forcing motion will shove new grease in the bearing on one end. and the old grease out the other. When new grease is coming out the other end then turn the bearing and do the next ecction of the bearing. Its a long dirty process but it gets the job done. Do bother bearings and then put the parts back together in the back side of the hub. Prior to doing this put a good amount of grese on the bearing surfaces inside the hub. You don't have to plug it up but you dont want the new grease running out the bearing either. Then reinstall the seal and lube the shaft on the car. Reinstall the hub and then do the same thing on the front bearing.

New school is the same except you use a bearing packer from a store. All the auto places and even wal mart will carry it. You place the bearing in a holder and use a grease gun to pack the bearing. It is time efficient and once you start to pump the grease you see the old come out the sides. Once all the old is out and new stuff starts coming out you are done. Nice and neat the first time but it uses a bit more grease that can go to waste. Just be careful. Since grease LOVES to hold dirt and debris you need to be super careful after you use it so it stays clean for next time.

I just pulled my 96 Toyota bearings and the race and bearings look new. I change the grease about every 50 000 miles and I now have 325000 on the vehicle. So its worth the time.

Rear window relay is inside the pillar on drivers side - its easiest if you remove th rear passenger interior side panels

1. Remove all the panel to gain access to the ignition switch assembly. 2. Disconnect ignition wiring harness. 3. If only the switch needs to be replaced, remove the retaining screw at hte back of the lock housing and remove the switch. If the automatic transmission interlock relay needs to be replaced, it may be unbolted from the housing -- don't loose the spring and the lock pin. 4. If the key lock is to be changed, place the key in hte switch and turn the key to ACC position. Insert a thin rod in the hole at the bottom of the housing and press the stop tab inwards. While holding the tab in, pull the cylinder out of the housing. * Installation in reverse but make sure that the key is in ACC position before installing, and the lock tab engages the hole....

This engine probably has hydraulic lifters and no adjustment is required.

could be the timing belt if it is broken it will turn over all day but wont start could also be fuel pump and filter it the pump is bad or the filter is severly clogged you will have the same problem

the piston in cylinder #1 at the top on the compression stroke

passenger side fuse box (im currently lookig for that box too