VW Passat

diesel

There are actually two ABS fuses on a 2000 Passat. One is located under the hood and one is in the main fuse block which is under the dash.

switch it off....?

what is the electronic power control?

there are a few ways to do this first look for a bleeder screw if one is found, run your engine open the screw until the air is forced out and u see a steady flow of coolant coming out ('''BE CAREFULL THE COOLANT WILL BE HOT''') If no bleeding screw is found try running the engine with the radiator cap off '''once again be CAREFULL with the HOT coolant'''.

Ah, easy one. You'll find instructions in your owners manual page 198. If you don't have a manual here's the basic procedure: 1. Open glove compartment door. On the right side you'll see a small arm (attached to a hydraulic piston) connected to the door with a Phillips screw. Remove the screw and set aside someplace safe. Remove the arm from the door by pulling (gently) toward the right side of the car. 2. Remove the door by squeezing both sides inward and levering downward. Set the door aside. 3. You'll see a 'drawer' immediately behind where the glove box door was. Pull out the drawer and you'll find the filter inside. Remove/replace the filter and reassemble in the reverse order. It took longer to read that than to actually do it. Cheers

The first thing to look for is around the exhaust manifold area.This is where many exaust leaks start for different reasons.The area of the the leak is going to be usually a black color because of the of carbon residue left from the burning of fuel.This will be the tell tale sign of the leak.the exhaust manifold usually leads to a down tube that either goes into a pipe that that goes back to a catylitac converter or to a flex pipe(it usually looks like a braided steel hose.These pieces are bad for rusting out.That's the problem im having now.front wheel drives are different than rear wheel drives,because of that flex pipe,fwd have that and rwd don't.Rwd use a donought from the exhaust manifold to the pipe,where as fwds use that flex hose.Now in a rwd car that donought can and will be damged or rust out,just like the areas where the flex tube is on a fwd do.these areas are usually bolted together with a clamp of some sorts so those are the the areas you should look first.

You put anti freeze in your car for 2 reasons. 1 Reason is to keep your engine operating temperature at the specifide level and keep the engine from over heating. The other Reason is to protect your engine block from craking in extreme cold. When liquid freezes it expands and could potentialy crack a weak engine block. Anti freeze does not become solid till around -50F. Also, anti freezes contain additives which reduce corrosionwithin the engine and the rest of the cooling system.

The ABS indicator stands for the Automatic Brake System indicator. It can be reset by restarting the entire control display.

Adjust the striker plates.

I have a 1996 Sub. The doors do not close as easily as they once did. Adjusting the striker plates is one way to fix it but in my case it would not help. One the suburban door hinges are two pins. There are small metal sleeves with slightly different diameters for the top and the bottom. It is those sleeves and hinge pins that have caused my door to become loose. The fix is to repalce the pins and sleeves. About 12.00 per hinge. You have to be careful becasue there is a spring on the hinge and the door is very heavy for a one person job. I

Scott

There are just some simple things that your average person just can not do. this is one of them. saying that just makes you want to prove me wrong. so my question is, if your not smart enough to figure out your problem why are you suddenly able to correct it.-give up now before you make things worse. (well maybe just hit your latch pin with a hammer and get on with your life). what do i care what i say nobody listens to me anyway

Pull the rubber gasket that seals the back of the hood away from the fire wall. Now you can pull the plastic cover towards the front of the car and remove it. You should now be able to see the entire battery. There is one bolt in the front left corner that holds the battery in. Remove it and the clamp and the cables (negative first according to the manual) and the battery should come out. It may take a third hand to help hold cables and hoses out of the way when you go to put the new battery in. Also I had a terrible time finding a battery, and ended up at the dealer. The price wasn't too far off a Napa battery, so if you want to save yourself some time you may want to go to the dealer first.

Slideshow (2001 model): http://s293.photobucket.com/pbwidget.swf?pbwurl=http://w293.photobucket.com/albums/mm66/vejora/Change%20your%20Passat%20TDI%20battery/6b7158ac.pbw

One of hundreds of things. It means that something in the emissions system is getting a bad reading. The only way to know what it is specifically, is to read the codes stored with a diagnostic tester.

It depends on whats wrong with it.

1. The most common is a leaking oil seal, which is easy to diagnose by the blue smoke from the exhaust.

2. If the bearings are worn and the wheels are ok, the turbo can be rebuilt. You can have it done by a shop or by ordering a rebuild kit and fixing it yourself.

3. If the wheel or housing is damage, it would be easier/cheaper just to by a new/rebuilt turbo.

This sounds like a bad alternator or bad electrical connection to the alternator. First check your battery voltage with the engine at idle. It should be about 13.6v-14.2v. All the idiot lights get their ground through the "battery" failure light. That is often caused by a bad connection of the small red wire at the back of the alternator. Most likely brushes are worn down on your voltage regulator. Replace it, fairly easy job, two screws hold it attached to the alternator. It is located next to the oil filter.

a construction site?

Car 3 would be at fault for all damages. From the description it sounds like car 2 had to make a stop and car 3 had either enough speed or weight to force car 2 into car 1. Car 3 should have allowed enough space in front of it to avoid any crashes. Now, if car 2 had hit car 1 and then a moment later car 3 hit car 2, car 2 would be at fault for car 1 and car 3 would be at fault for car 2. In an event like this, make sure a POLICE REPORT is made.

In Canada that is not possible. However in the US It is listed in the manual how to do it. I believe it is a process of turning on the truck then pushing the courtesy light button on and off about 3 times. This has to be done each time you start the truck. If you purchase HID's and need a permanent solution then you can contact a member of our Trailblazer Enthusiast forum (Tblazed) for his electrical solution. www.trailvoy.com

The engine comes out the bottom. There are four 17 mm nuts holding the engine in place. Two are at the top of where the engine joins with the transmission behind the fan shroud and the other two are at the bottom of where the engine and tranny connect. You will need to be beneath the car to get those nuts off.

Jack up the car and place it on jack stands. Now raise the jack beneath the engine just so it is supporting the engine's weight. Be careful not to jack it up so high that you bend or damage the studs that hold the engine in place.

You will want to disconnect the gas line, which is beneath the car on the driver's side. Disconnect it so that you will be able to stick a piece of a pencil in the gas hose. This will prevent gas leaks. While beneath the car, disconnect the fresh air hoses from the heat exchangers (if you have them) and disconnect the heater control cables from the heat exchangers. Back the two nuts off of the bottom studs that hold the engine to the tranny. To remove the top nuts, you will need to reach back behind the fan shroud with your 17 mm wrench. I have found that it is sometimes necessary to use a pair of vice grips beneath the car to get these top bolts not to spin with the nuts.

Before going any further, clearly label all wires (battery, starter, ignition coil, etc.). This is going to make it much easier to connect everything when you get ready to put the engine back in. Remove the distributor cap (for ease of access to the throttle) and loosen the nut that holds the accelerator cable to the carb. Slip the cable from the carb and pull it back through the fan shroud.

You are now ready to pull the engine. With the weight of the engine resting on the jack (and, preferably with someone who can help you), pull back with a "wiggle" motion until the engine is clear of the tranny. This will involve slightly tipping the engine toward you. When it is clear of the car, slowly and carefully lower the engine to the floor, balancing its weight on the jack. Go slowly, as this is an aluminum case, and a fall of only inches can crack it.

When you have the engine lowered, pull it from beneath the car, do your work, and then reinstall the engine in reverse order of removal.

Its not a symbol. It will say "Service Engine Soon."

Add 1 oz of gas to the carburetor and start right away.

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I agree with above answer...sort of. I have a '93 VR6 and it does not have a carburator. Maybe spraying starting fluid into the throttle bottle will work, but I would think the fuel pump doesn't need the help on a fuel injected car. But, then again, I'm just a shadetree mechanic.

It is possible that years of dirt have been floating around in the fuel tank and just got sucked into your fuel filter with the last drop of gas, and now your fuel filter is clogged. Besides, nobody ever replaces fuel filters in a timely fashion anyway, so its a good idea to replace the fuel filter and you will probably notice a slight performance improvement. The fuel filter is located on the inside of the frame rail beneath the front door, driver's side I think...easy to find because it has fuel lines attached to both sides. It is aluminum, so silver in color unless its now covered in dirt. The fuel filter is held in place with a clamp with a single bolt to loosen. Mine got rusted together so I removed the two bolts of the bracket and removed the entire bracket to replace the filter. All in all, an easy project if you have a car jack and a safety stand. Make sure the keys are out of the ignition so the fuel pump is NOT energized. There is a little bit of fuel that will spill out (probably on your clothes, if you are like me). The fuel lines are attached by clamps. 10 minute job for a human...30 minutes for a monkey....it took me about 20 minutes. By the way, a fuel filter probably costs $10 or so....one of the better cheap things to do to any car that isn't brand new.

If your problem is squeaking from the front of the car this is coming from the front suspension and proberbly the transverse arms. This is the first stage of the problem and is repairable without any major costs. The problem occurs when the MOS2 Molybdendisulfid grease in the balljoints start to dry out. This is repaird by removing the 4 tranverse arms and the C-link on both sides of the car and overhauling the gaiter covered balljoints. Carefulle remove all grease in baljoint and in gaiter and generously replace with new. Be careful when removing and mounting retaining springs. I have done this on my Passat 98 1.8T and it really works. My problem ocurred after 75000 km. This overhaul can NOT be done according to VW. The nest stage with this problem is instead a crunching noise from the same mechanics and it is a costly problem because one or more ball joints are damaged and worn out beyond repair. Now one ore more transverse arms or complete kit has to be replaced. Cost, ~$1000 for kit only. Can also be found on the internet in Germany for ~Euro 350. Regards Bo L

The gasket on the tank access hole is dried out or damaged. Replace that and you'll probably solve the problem.

To check the automatic gearbox oil level on a 2002 Passat TDI Estate, pull out the dipstick with the gearshift in neutral. Let the engine run and check on the oil level.Ê

No, you don't have to replace the whole assembly to repair a dead bulb. I have checked with the Bentley shop manual on this procedure and what you have to do is the pull on the black surround trim around the fog light. Do this from the area between the light and toward the license plate and the piece of black surround trim should POP off. IT is held in by tabs.

Next you have to unscrew the whole fog light assembly with the three screws holding it in (Not the adjuster TORX head screw-that is for adjustment).

It should then be able to pull it out of the bumper a bit and disconnect the connector from the foglight assembly. Twist off the back of the fog light assembly and you will have access to the bulb and will see how it connects.

Unsnap the retainer holding in the bulb and disconnect the lead going to the bulb to remove. Be careful not to touch the new bulb with your bare hands!! If you do carefully clean it with a cloth wetted with alcohol to remove any oil from your hands. If you don't, the bulb will shatter as soon as power is applied or will fog over instantly. These are halogen bulbs that get very hot and any oil will harden instantly on it's surface and crack the bulb.

Installation is the reverse from removal.

IT is not a very hard job to do but care should be taken with disconnecting the assembly connector first so that you can remove the whole light making it easier to work on.