Water Pumps

Drain Radiator Remove 4 bolts that hold fan in place Remove belts Remove fan Disconnect water hoses (upper and Lower) Disconnect bypass hose Un bolt Remove Clean mounting surface well--prior to insatlling new pump and gasket

Waterpump would not cause this. Definitely a blown head gasket but be sure to change the water pump while you're in there or you'll have to do all that labor again in a few months. I know from experience. Get free online repair manual at autozone.com to help ya do it. Goodluck i beg to differ the water pumps on the quad 4's are known to be unreliable, and they do leek coolant into the oil when they break because it comes in around the shaft that powers the oil pump this is not an arguable point i have been working on quad fours for a while and i have seen many instances of this the water pumps on the twin cam engines are better but they still have the same problem they just last longer

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_a_water_pump_on_a_2003_Pontiac_grand_prix"

Caution:On models with a Delco Loc 2 or Theftlock audio system be sure the lockout feature is turned off before proceeding * Disconnect the negative battery cable * Drain the cooling system * Remove the cooling fan then remove the serpentine drivebelt 2.2L OHV Engine * Remove the water pump pulley from the front of the water pump * Remove the coolant reservoir hoses * Detach the water pump retaining bolts and remove the pump from the vehicle 2.3L And 2.4L OHC Engines * Disconnect the oxygen sensor harness connector * Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands * Remove the exhaust manifold brace and loosen the exhaust manifold bolts * Remove the radiator outlet pipe assembly to the water pump housing bolts and separate the assembly from the engine * Remove the exhaust manifold pipe from the exhaust manifold * Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan.On manual transaxles cars remove the exhaust manifold brace and keep the radiator inlet hose attached to the assembly.Pull down on the radiator outlet pipe in order to disengage the pipe from the water pump while leaving the radiator outlet pipe hanging * Lower the car remove the brake booster vacuum hose from the camshaft housing also remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head * Remove the timing chain cover from the engine * Remove the timing chain tensioner * Remove the water pump cover bolts from the engine block and the timing chain housing * Remove the water pump bolts and separate the assembly from the housing

Water from your tailpipe could just be condensation, it is caused by a difference between the exhaust temperature and the surrounding air plus the presence of humidity. If it is coolant ( smells sweet )and you are losing coolant from your radiator you probably have a bad head gasket. Overheating can cause a head gasket to blow which can be caused by a bad water pump so in a roundabout way yes.

A solar water pump, is basically like any other pump, accept that it is powered by a battery. Solar Panels use photovoltaic cells to charge the batteries, which in turn charge the pump. Water is then pumped from either an underground well, aquifer, or even aquitard. That water can be pumped, depending on the power level, to the surface or to a reservoir tower that feeds a system of pipes.

You shouldn't need to take off the intake manifold at all so, to answer your question, no. However, if it the exhaust manifold you mean, the answer is still no. It should be a multi-layered metal gasket and the only reason to replace any gasket is because it is damaged.

you will lose coolant quickly and ur car will heat up sooner or later

I have done a few of these and if you have never done one you dont want to start now. They are a real pain to do. SORRY, Ray

Sorry doesn't cut it when looking for an answer, Ray. I'm helping a friend out and glossed over his generic Chilton's manual. Taking the water pump bolts out directly is the hardest part. It is apparant that the housing shell connected to the motor mount is covering the top two bolts of the water pump. The manual shows that removing the alternator bracket to remove the water pump assembly (read: water pump PLUS its angled housing shell that its connected to) can be removed with three simple long bolts inverse to the water pump. Plan on 3-4 hours labor for us unskilled home mechanics. I with this answer. Sincerely, Craig

To give yourself some elbow room, remove the fan/clutch assembly along with the fan shroud. Note, the water pump is not behind the fan pulley as you would normally expect. Remove the accessory belt. Remove the water pump pulley. Drain off the radiator coolant into a clean container. Remove the water pump. Install in reverse order.

the water pump is located next to the throttle body. there is no reason to set the timing.

yes.

if its wrote up in the contract . or you can put a lien againt the person take the person to small claims court. but found out the amount the small claims court allows you to sue for. some small claims courts only go up to a certain amount like 2,000.oo dollars . some may be more. and you will have to pay for a court date, and serve the person with a summons for court. the court will help you process all that and charge you a amount. if the person goes to court and is found guilty, they will have to refund you the court cost and the judge will either garnish their wages or direct you to get your pump. i know that when i repoed cars from people that didn't make their payments, we didn't need a court order from a judge to get the vehicle. if you want to try to get your pump, you have that right. all they can do is call the law and say you are tresspassing. but i don't think they will do that if you are taking something that is yours because of nonpayment. you can always say that you contacted proper authorities concerning the matter and if there is any problems you will call the law. let them assume whatever they want. they can't touch you but they can tell you to leave. its left up to you. i told a guy once when i went to repo his truck that if he didn't let me take it the company could sue for theft, and that is a felony. he got out real quick. but our contracts had specifics on what happens when someone doesn't pay. i could have called the cops for back up but they consider it a civil matter and don't want to get involved. but i let them know, you touch one hair on me and i prosecute.

To replace the water pump, you need to remove the radiator, belts and alternator.

Jack the car up slightly (a board on the oil pan and a floor jack) to take tension off the engine mounting bolts. Remove the passenger side engine mount.

Then remove the water pump.

Install in reverse order.THE 2.4L AND 2.5L ENGINES.YOU HAVE TO SAFELY RAISE VECHICLE SUPPORT IT USING JACK STANDS.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE RIGHT HAND SPLASH SHIELD.THEN LOOSEN WATER PUMP PULLEY BOLTS LEAVE DRIVE BELT IN PLACE TO KEEP WATER PULLEY FROM TURNING WHILE LOOSEN PULLEY BOLTS.THEN YOU HAVE TO MOVE AC COMPRESSOR DONT DISCONNECT ANY REFRIGERANT LINES.JUST SET IT ASIDE THE ALTERNATOR AND ITS MOUNT ALSO HAS TO MOVED.THEN YOU ARE AT WATER PUMP.NOW THE 3.5L ENGINE WATER PUMP IS IN A TOUGH SPOT.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD.REMOVE THE SUBFRAME BRACKET FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE SUBFRAME ASSEMBLY. REMOVE THE INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE ENGINE ROOM FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.REMOVE THE IPDMER UPPER COVER AND HARNESS COVER RELEASE THE TWO CLIPS.DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AND LIFT THE ASSEMBLY FROM THE CASE.REMOVE THE RADIATOR SHROUDS REMOVE THE DRIVE BELTS.REMOVE THE ENGINE COOLING FAN.REMOVE THE RADIATOR AND THE COOLANT RESERVOIR.REMOVE THE IDLER PULLEY AND THE POWER STEERING AND ALTERNATOR ADJUSTMENT BRACKETS.REMOVE THE FRONT ENGINE MOUNT.REMOVE COOLANT DRAIN PLUG FROM THE WATER PUMP SIDE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK.REMOVE CHAIN TENSIONER COVER AND THE WATER PUMP COVER FROM THE ENGINE FRONT COVER.REMOVE THE CHAIN TENSIONER.PULL THE LEVER DOWN TO RELEASE THE PLUNGER STOPPER TAB.INSERT A STOPPER PIN INTO THE TENSIONER BODY HOLE TO RETAIN THE LEVER IN THE RELEASED.NO CHAIN TENSION POSITION.MOVE THE PLUNGER INTO THE TENSIONER BY PRESSING THE CHAIN GUIDE AND PUSHING WITH A SCREWDRIVER.MAKE A GAP BETWEEN THE WATER PUMP GEAR AND THE TIMING CHAIN BY ROTATING THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY 20 DEGREES COUNTERCLOCKWISE.REMOVE THE THREE WATER PUMP MOUNTING BOLTS.INSTALL 2 BOLTS SIZE M8 1.25 X 50 MM INTO THE WATER PUMP BOLT HOLES AND TIGHTEN THEM EQUALLY UNTIL THEY BOTTOM AGAINST THE CHAIN COVER.IT WILL BE NECESSARY TO ROTATE THE WATER PUMP SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW THE BOLTS TO DRIVE AGAINST THE REAR TIMING CHAIN CASE COVER INSTEAD OF THE BOLT HOLES.REMOVE THE WATER PUMP.CLEAN THE SEALANT FROM THE MATING SURFACE AND REPLACE THE O-RINGS.INSTALL THE OUTER O-RING WITH THE WHITE PAINT MARK FACING THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE AND THE INNER O-RING BLACK NEXT.APPLY A LIGHT AMOUNT OF OIL TO THE O-RINGS.TIGHTEN THE WATER PUMP BOLTS TO 62 - 89 INCH POUNDS.TIGHTEN WATER PUMP BOLTS EVENLY DONT OVER TIGHT OR YOU WILL DAMAGE WATER PUMP AND HAVE LEAKS.REINSTALL THE POWER STEERING AND ALTERNATOR ADJUSTMENT BRACKETS AND ANY OTHER COMPONENTS REMOVED FOR ACCESS TO THE WATER PUMP.REFILL THE COOLING SYSTEM.RUN THE ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS.YOU NEED TO BUY THE HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.SO THE PHOTOS WILL HELP YOU WHEN REMOVING AND INSTALLING WATER PUMP.

I would like to help out, but I would need to know what engine that you have in it. please repost...

thay usually leak at the bottom of pump out the releif hole. or if it is noisier than usual it can go bad.

Here are several answers and opinions from FAQ Farmers: * A water pump usually starts to leak with just a little weeping out of the hole in the bottom. But if you ignore that, it can leave a puddle as it gets worse. * A water pump has a drain hole for when the packing around the shaft goes bad. Depending on how bad the pump is, it can trickle or it can pour coolant out. If you are finding coolant leaking out of the water pump, replace it immediately, before the engine is damaged.

1. Hold the Water Pump sprocket in position using the aperture

in the front cover.

2. Remove:

a. Upper Timing Cover

b. Manifold Heat Shield

c. Oxygen Sensor Wiring Harness Plug

d. Auxiliary Belt

3. Release water pump drain plug and drain.

4. Disconnect wiring harness plug from temperature sensor

and remove water hose from thermostat housing and heater

hose from the radiator.

5. Remove from water pump.

6. Remove the water pump service hatch.

7. Attach the Water pump holding tool (Laser Tools do one, as do Snap-on)with two of the service cover bolts in the outer slotted holes.

8. Secure the tool to the water pump sprocket using the 3

internal bolts.

9. Tighten to ensure tool is fitted securely.

10. Remove the bolts holding the Water Pump to the sprocket.

The engine timing is maintained as the timing chain is

securely fixed to the pump sprocket.

11. Remove the Water Pump.

12. Replace the Water Pump, refit the bolts retaining the pump

to the sprocket and remove the holding tool.

13. Re-assemble components in reverse order.

Your welcome.Off the top of my head, I would guess at a water pump from experience. Although, I would strongly recommend finding the real leak. Anyways here's a list of possibilities:water pump, head gasket, intake manifold, heater hose, radiator hose, bypass hose, radiator, heater core (usually leaks in passenger compartment floor), thermostat housing.As you sit in the driver's seat, where would you say that you see it? Center, right or left front of engine compartment? front middle or rear of engine compartment? How much and how often is leaking? Does it run rough? does it overheat?

Sorry I didn't re-read the initial question.Also add cap, reservior bottle and overflow to that list.One thought: A well known company can still hire a poor quality technician unintentionally and may have not pressure tested correctly or was not aggressive enough to find. There is a shortage of good technicians. if the system was low and pressure tested it may not have turned up. He should have pressure tested the cap to make sure it was good.Another thought: Assume the tech was good, Heat can affect a leak sometimes. I have seen it with waterpumps and head gasket leaks in particular. When it is cold the surfaces contract and seal a leak, when hot they expand and allow a leak-or vica versa.Another thought: Add dye to the system-make sure it is for coolant not oil. Any decent parts store should have this.

Dan,I would add the dye. Based on the location and other normal conditions present, it further leads toward the water pump.However, if it is in the corner right there is a possible seam leak on the radiator. I have seen both of these leak intermittantly.The Dye will help isolate it. Post what you find, thanks,Paul

Dan, I hate to beat a dead horse, but did you put dye in it yet?I had a 2000 Chevy Malibu that wouldn't leak until it was driven about 40 miles. If it wasn't for the dye, I don't know if I would have ever found it.If you can't find the dye, I'll find where you can.

Don't necessarily knock the other companies. It took me a painful 200 miles worth of test driving,6 cans of cleaner, at least 3 hours of labor of dissassembling and reassembling, 3 gallons of dexcool and countless shop rags to find this particular leak. Not to mention that it became a heated issue between the tech working on it and myself. He kept telling me it was a hose and I wasn't buying it. Oh yeah, we did this at no charge as well. She just put $600.00 into fixing the leak because we diagnosed it as a intake manifold leak. Granted she did have the manifold gasket leak and it did need repair, but I think the trouble one was the water pump. I also had deep sympathy for her as well since her daughter was brutally murdered less than a year ago.

If we had used the dye in the first place, we could have saved a lot of leg work, material and headaches.

Dealers have techs like any other shop. Just because they are the " Dealer", still only makes them as good as their techs, their policies, ethics and their perserverence.

Anyways, I am glad you got it resolved.

If you have a bad head gasket, cracked head, intake manifold leak, or even an exahust manifold leak you can have similar signs for all these problems. First question is does your car run hot or has it leaked or overheated recently? Even though you have a new head gasket I wouldn't rule that out. You are running your car around and since the coolant is hot it has expanded to fill the reservoir tank. When you park it at night the radiator will draw the coolant back from the coolant reservoir and empty it. On the weekend fill your reservoir and start your car and wait and watch as it is warming up. You are looking to see if the coolant is being forced out of the coolant recovery tank. This may not happen right away. If so that is a possible leak of one of the items listed above. It could also be the radiator cap so you could try that as it is probably less than $10 anyway. Get a new one with the same pressure as the old on or your car will run hotter (If less lbs). Do you have hard starting in the morning? (Possible that a cylinder has coolant in it). Pull spark plugs and see if any fluid is squirted out of cylinder. Also look at spark plugs. Are the plugs covered in a white ash or extremely wet looking? (Indicates same thing).Do you see white smoke from the exhaust with a coolant (sweet) smell? This could be intermittant. If so then you have one of the leaks listed above. You may or may not get coolant mixing with your oil depends on size and position of leak (Usually this happens when leak happens between cylinders). Look for coffee and cream color of oil. You would see this on dipstick or filler cap.Have a service guy do a block test to the coolant to see if exhaust gasses are present. (Should indicate a leak at any one of those points mentioned). They use a tube that is put in filler neck of radiator (It is filled with dye) if the dye changes color then you have exhaust gasses present.

I may not be a mechanic but I have been looking into this very problem, because I keep blowing the seams out of my new radiators.

You will need to remove the water from your 2001 Buick Aurora cooling system. Remove the water pump return hose. Remove the water pump retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new water pump.

The water pump is driven off the timing chain. I would recommend purchasing a repair manual for that vehicle if you are going to DIY.

I have changed the water pump on a 1997 Cavalier which I suppose is quite similar to your Venture. Here is my recommendation:

Take it to a mechanic and have them do it, unless you feel up to a few skinned knuckles and few cuts and abrasions. If you still feel like hurting yourself, here is the short version.

Somewhere on the hood or in front of the radiator is a diagram of the routing of the serpentine belt that drives the various equipment attached to the engine, including the alternator, the air conditioning compressor, the water pump and maybe the power steering pump. To remove it, make sure you understand how to put it back on and then find the tensioner pulley. Put a wrench or socket on the nut with a fairly long handle and rotate the nut clockwise. The tensioner pulley should move releasing tension on the belt so it can be removed from around the water pump pulley.

Remove any hoses attached to the water pump if any and catch the coolant. CAUTION: Coolant is poisonous! Do not leave where pets can get to it or where children can reach it.

Find the bolts that attach the pump to the engine block. Usually 4 to six of them and some may be longer than others. Remember what hole what bolt came out of. When all of the bolts are removed, the pump may just fall loose but most likely will have to be pried loose. If it resists prying, check to see that you have ALL of the bolts removed. They are quite clever and are sometimes well hidden. It's a game!

Remove the pulley and install it on the new/rebuilt pump.

Normally some of the original gasket material will be stuck firmly to the engine block. This must be COMPLETELY removed before installing the new pump. Lots of luck!

Make sure both the new pump and the pump location on the engine block are clean and dry.

Apply a light coat of gasket sealer on the flange of the pump where the gasket will sit.

Attach the gasket to the pump and make sure the holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the pump.

Coat the outside of the gasket with another light/thin coat of gasket sealer. Recheck to see that the holes line up.

Place the pump on the engine block and install the bolts. Tighten alternately in a sort of cross pattern until they are all snug, then tighten/torque to factory recommended settings, normally around 10 to 15 foot pounds. Do NOT overtighten or you will crack the casting on the pump and it will be do-overs.

RE-stringing the serpentine belt may take two people. One person will put tension on the tensioner pulley while the other one guides the belt around all of the pulleys. It has to be exactly as the diagram shows or you will not be successful. Lots of luck.

When the belt and pulleys are all where they are supposed to be, release the tensioner pulley which will tighten the belt. If it isn't tight, you missed something.

Reattach any hoses removed, tighten clamps then refill the cooling system.

NOTE: Do NOT run your can in an enclosed space, such as a garage unless the doors are open.

Start the car and check for leaks. Lots of luck.

Engine overheating can be caused by any number of problems, large or small. The most obvious is a lack of water or antifreeze in your car. Without coolant, your car will (naturally) overheat. Usually if an engine is overheating it is accompanied by white smoke coming from under the hood by your cylinders, (below your spark plugs). White smoke is steam, and is usually burning antifreeze or water that has leaked into your cylinders and is being combusted along with the air and gasoline. One possible cause of this is a melted / old / worn head gasket. That was my problem :). You should let the car cool completely, so you do not burn yourself, then check the coolant level inside the engine. You MUST wait until the car's engine is cool, because the temperatures in an engine can reach over the boiling point of water, and if you open the cap to check the water levels, and the steam rushes out, you risk burning or blinding yourself. Other than that, i'd advise talking to a professional, or a engine-inclined friend for a more through inspection. Good luck!