Car Starting Problems

92 Escorts are known for having a bad ignition switch. When trying to start the starter won't quit after you release the key from start to run position. Replace the ignition switch.

No, there is no suck switch.

No gas

Ridiculous...hoping that there is gas in your car...I would say either the starter or the ignition switch. When you get the car started, take it to autozone and let them do a free diagnostic on your alternator, battery, starter and ignition module.

loose bolt on distributer will allow distributer to move worn or stretched timing belt or chain can slip or jump out of timing broken tooth on timing gears If it's an older engine, with points, they just wear out.

Anytime a diesel engine will not run the fuel delivery system is in question. Fuel pumps, fuel filters, clogged injectors, etc. I have owned severall diesel trucks and a problem lilke this always boils down to something in the fuel system, in my experience. Good luck.

Most likely he has to turn the ignition on when he tows the car, to prevent the steering lock from activating. As you know, leaving the ignition on will reset the system, so by the time he's back at the workshop the problem has gone away by itself.

depends if it is a v6 3 litre or a deisil. if it is a deisil i have no idea. if its a 3l v6 its on the drivers side underneith. solinoide in external. it is easy to get to and u only need a 14mm socket or ratched spanner to take it out.

It could lay with the computer control modual or the distributor and in some cases the trotle posistion sensor.

Find out what type of battery the fob takes, and then replace it. If you are in the middle of nowhere, then i dont know.

Do you mean firing order? 1-3-4-2

Click the link and choose the correct engine.

PULL UP PASSENGER SIDE HANDLE AND HOLD IT UP WHILE YOU TURN THE KEY IN THE LOCK EITHER LEFT OR RIGHT........I DONT REMEMBER WHICH WAY THIS WILL UNLOCK THE DOOR ....DEPENDS ON THE YEAR

The Crankshaft Position Sensor senses it's position from a toothed timing ring behind the Crankshaft pulley. The CKP is above and to the left of the crankshaft pulley.

fuel injector

take it to autozone they test for free failing that try this

pre-90's car? unplug the battery while running if the engine dies it's probably a bad alternator (or the alternator is too small for the electrical load of the vehicle)

after 90's? hook a multimeter to the battery while engine is running the voltage should be between 13.5 and 15.5 volts depending on engine rpm

Under ignition coils

If your battery has a full charge, and NO noise is heard. It is most likely a lose or broken wire from the battery to ignition switch or from ignition switch to solenoid. A bad neutral switch may also be the problem or a blown fuse. A clicking noise would indicate bad solenoid contacts or a low battery charge. Although the a solenoid may be at fault, the other reasons are more likely. Note: On cars without automatic transmissions, check the clutch interlock switch.

It should try to start at least. It may or may not actually start but you should hear it fire on the 2 good plugs. Why not just replace all 4 spark plugs?

you have to retrace what you were doing before blowing out the 3amp fuse. Were you repairing anything on the bike? I would speculate you were replacing the regulator/rectofire with an aftermarket one? check to see if the brown wire is connected to the wrong sorce.

Smelling a gasoline smell when the weather is cold could mean that the gas is set too rich. It would also be possible that the carburetor needs to be checked for a fuel leak.

It cannot be disabled. You'll have to get the correct transponder key, can't just get a duplicate cut at Wal-Mart for $1.50, sorry.

if a tie rod breaks you will lose control of the tire it broke on , causing you to crash..

no

Hi, In the later fiestas ford use a system called PATS (passive anti theft system). Basically, there is a chip in your key (the red dot on the end) that is coded, and links to the ECU when you put the key in the ignition. Where you have changed the ECU, it is looking for a different key, so the car is immobilised. The only way to get round this is to take the chip out of the key that is matched to the ECU you got, and put it into the key for your ignition. It's a pain, but ford have encorporated PATS into the ECU, so theres not much you can do about it! Hope this helps, and feel free to ask if you have any more problems. Cheers

make sure ecu is correct for that particular car and especially engine size. if incompatible it is probably not going to deliver enough fuel and also engine will fire incorrectly, possibly causing your problem. changing ecu should not have affected action of immobiliser in any way hope this helps

hi!,had the same problem with our 93`.Disconnecting the plug to the tcc solenoid corrected our problem.On the upper right hand side of the transmission(behind and just slightly below the alternator)there is a black plastic plug in.Pry the plastic locks away on the side of the plug and wiggle it out to disconnect.Our mechanic suggested doing this after we described the same stalling problem to him.Hope this helps with your problem,it worked for us.Replacing the tcc solenoid is an unneccessary cost,in my opinion.Just be sure to cover the end of the plug afterwards to prevent road dirt from getting in there.,...Ron C

Try disconnecting the battery for at least 10 minutes and then reconnect and try. Check the starter, it don't all the time go right out it will crank but not turn the engine over when it start to go bad, then you you will hear the clicking latter on.