Car Starting Problems

I do not have an answer but I also have a 1994 Toyota Camry that will not start and has no spark, I swapped out the ignition module to no avail, the distributor and rotor appear fine. Any help

if the battery has enough power, it could be the starter itself, poss a bad spot on the motor, could be a bad connection at the starter or positive battery cable, maybe corrosion on the terminals.

If not working or defective - you can't start the truck. It cuts off the fuel pump. Will it work and cut off later in a crash situation? LoL

i have a 2004 Chevy Malibu i nedd to find the reset button please

I don't own a 95 ford escort. But if I did, and the motor turned over but would not start, I'd look at either the ignition module or fuel pump first.

Either the belt is worn out, incorrect belt, drive gears are worn, or the tensioner is defective.

If it is like my '86 Samurai there is no starter relay. It uses a starter solenoid on the top of the starter to pass battery to starter motor when the solenoid is activated via the key switch.

short in wiring to pump or the pump itself..

the same way you start an engine that you used yesterday. However, if it doesn't start as it should, then you have to deal with whatever problem is preventing it from starting. I am going to assume the engine was in a car. I'd be surprised if the battery is any good at all, sitting this long, it's plates have probably sulfated so badly it isn't likely to take and hold a charge. If you do try to recharge it, make sure the cells are covered with DISTILLED WATER & try recharging at a very low rate, say from 2.5 to 6 amps. It may take 4-5 days to brake down the sulfates & recharge at this rate, but I doubt the battery will be any good, having set unattended this long, so I'd plan on a new one. You'll likely need new coolant & heater hoses too, maybe a new belt/s. If this puppy was rode hard, put up wet & none of the fluids were changed before storage, I'd begin with ALL new fluids. Brake fluid, Coolant, Engine oil, Re-lube the wheel bearings, Tyranny lube, Drain the gas tank & the fuel lines, if the old gas is still in there, ya gotta get rid of it. Refill the tank with fresh gas, with 0.4 oz per gallon of Marvel oil mixed in with the new petrol. After you run a tank or two through it, I'd change the fuel filter too. I'd remove the spark plugs & squirt about 4 tablespoons of Marvel Oil in each cylinder & let it sit over night. Then remove the plugs & disable the spark. Then crank the engine for maybe two 15 second periods, (so as not to overheat the starter) to distribute the Marvel oil in the cylinders, build oil pressure & prime the fuel system. Then replace the plugs & enable the spark & start her up. Don't try to roll the car, as the wheel bearings may be welded from all the vehicles weight being on them this long, clean & re lube them first. I don't know what to tell you about the tires, as we don't know under what conditions it's been stored.

Thats an easy one, bad connections at the battery or starter. Remove the cables and clean them with a wire brush so you can see new metal and replace the connectors if they are corroded green too much or it is up and into the wires. Make sure that the connection at the starter is clean and tight.

An old quick trick is to remove the positive terminal from the battery while the car is running. If the car dies or runs very rough the odds are it's the alternator. A lot of auto stores will test the whole charging system for free.

Yes, you can start diesel engine even if you don't have battery in!

You need four things to start a car compression/ spark/ air/ and fuel/ if these components are present check your starter, dead battery, and all your connections. Good luck

At this point it's just a matter of diagnostics. You need to find an electrical diagram of the vehicle and go back, point by point, testing where you get starter signal and where you don't.

Pay attention to the wiring on the starter. Many starters have a post that's not used on some electronic ignition systems so you should verify that you have connected your solenoid wire to the right post.

Try a jumper from the battery wire directly to the solenoid to see if the starter will engage. If the starter tested good it should engage when you jumper to the solenoid.

Next, go back one step at a time. If you're not getting starter signal from the neutral switch it might just be misaligned.

Next, go back to the keyswitch. If you're not getting starter signal from the keyswitch you might just need to replace it.

Break the problem down into smaller pieces, testing each component individually.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Check the engine oxygen sensor. It seems that the system is going into closed loop mode from open loop and the oxygen sensor may be bad. Here's the process:

Engine starts OK, O2 is open loop running on mapped data in the controller

Engine warms and switches over to closed loop, O2 sensor hasn't started putting out valid voltage levels yet so engine stalls.

After a few more minutes 02 sensor is hot enough and is able to supply valid, closed loop info to the controller. It's called a lazy sensor, this means it's worn out and due for replacement.

In the back, somewhere, there is a control (emergency cut-off) for your electric fuel pump. It's behind one of the panels, probably on the left-hand side. There is a reset button, usually red, on the box. Push the button and you should be back in business. Let me know if this works. dejudge@myrealbox.com Check in trunk a lot of Fords have afuel cutoff There should be a tag showing where it is push button should start Fuel shutoff has been activated. Find the reset button in the truck and push it. On my 2000 Ford Focus the fuel cut-off switch is located in the kick panel on the passenger side.

Perhaps a loose connection causing excessive resistance.

Check ground connection also

Solenoid not of proper rating (too light to carry load)

many people are having the same or similar problems as you, tbi systems need a certain amount of fuel pressure to function about 9-13 psi and when the fuel pump wears out it loses pressure making the computer raise the idle speed and when you give it gas the pump can't supply enough fuel pressure for the injectors to fire and the engine responds by stalling. i think your problem here is the fuel pump in the tank. but before you change it check the fuel pressure and change the fuel filter (if you havn't already) and clean the idle air control valve, that was also a problem on these engines. happy to help, Randy

No, you do not need a new battery, you just need to get somebody with a car and use the connector which are Red and Black:Red means positive and Black means negative.











Gerson

The fuel pump on the frame is not strong enough to pull fuel directly from the tank. Ford and their wonderful two pump system. You'll need to replace the pump in the tank.

Could be that the TR sensor (Transmission Range sensor) is out of adjustment. You can adjust the sensor, by loosening the attachment bolts to the tyranny, and adjust the manual shift cable and re tighten bolts and tighten adjustment cable to proper torque.

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATER

carborator

The fuel pump relay switch is the middle relay on the passenger side firewall. there are 3 unmarked relays. the middle one is it.