Ford Ranger XL

Remove wheels

Remove caliper mounting bolts

Slide caliper off rotor

The S-10 rotor is also the wheel mount. There is a cap that needs to be removed from the end of the rotor. Under the cap is a pin locked nut, you need to remove the pin by bending the top of it carefully and then pull it out.

Remove the nut holding on the rotor. the rotor should slide off now replace the rotor

reverse the order being sure to apply new grease to the system.

Inside the engine lubrication system.

Most rotors turn clockwise.

Yes, it is called the OBD2 code list.

very helpfull

For a Ford Ranger , 2.8 liter V6 engine :

firewall

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front of vehicle

I can think of Three things,
1. Thremostat stuck open.
2. Poor quality radiator hose or the spring inside is bent or missing.
3. Low water level in radiator.
Good Luck

Yes, there was a gallon of gas in 1948. Several of them, actually.

Can you replace your 2000 Camry CE 4-cylinder engine with a 1997 Camry engine?"

I'm guessing you are talking about ring and pinion/spiders/locking differential. Not a back-yard mechanic item. It takes a knowlegeable mechanic to set backlash and toe for replacing gear sets. If you try it yourself, you will end up with a gear mesh that whines or maybe even slips causing breakage. Leave it to a pro, it's cheaper. If you are just replacing axle bearings and seals, you can do it yourself but you will need torches and/or a hydraulic press to remove and replace the bearings.

Yes, the alternator provides electrical energy to keep the battery charged. If the alternator isn't functioning, the battery will discharge and there will be insufficient electrical energy to operate the ignition and other electrical components. Understand that a battery is only an electrical STORAGE device. Electrical energy is produced by the alternator. The function of the battery is to provide electrical energy for NEXT time you want to start the engine. Once the engine is started, the alternator must take care of all electrical requirements of the vehicle as well as for providing enough additional electrical energy to replace electrical energy to the battery that was last used when the engine was started.

YOUR CAR WA STOLEN AND THEY PUT A NEW IGNATION..... DOOR JOB IT

12,000- to 15,000 a year

I changed my starter last night on my 94 E-350 van and it was reletively easy. there is 2 mounting bolts with a 1/2" socket and I used plenty of extentions to get past the transmission because the exhaust pipe is right under the upper bolt facing the rear of the vehicle. the lower bolt is facing the front and is easy to get. once the bolts are out, the starter falls right out and hangs by the batter wire. a 14MM wrench took the nut off the solenoid and the small wire is just a blade connector and now the starter is in your hand. be careful not to allow the starter to drop on the ground and damage it! You should always remove the batter connections under the hood so you dont short out the electrical system and blow up the batteries! if anyone has any ideas on how to remove the alternator on this beast, I would love to hear from you! I have a bad short somewhere in my electrical system, the batteries (dual) read 15.5V at the post, but when the engine was running, the headlights were dim and the 2 dash volt meters (one stock, one aftermarket) read only 9V and now I cant even jump start it. I am taking the batteries to an auto parts store to be tested. I really hope the batteries are weak and wont keep or hold a charge, if they test good, then I have to find a short somewhere in the body!

The drain cock is at the bottom of the radiator above the splash shield. Either you will need to remove the shield or you will need a piece of 3/8" hose about 12 to 14 inches long to attach to the drain tube.

easier way as long as you don't mind a small mess pull the bottom raidator hose off and the fluid will come out very quickly

Open the drivers door and on the latch pillar should be an information sticker that

shows the original size tire on the vehicle from the factory

Jack up the front wheel you intend to work on, and remove the tire. There are two bolts that hold the brake caliper on, (located on the back side.) Remove these and the caliper will pull of the disc. Use a C-clamp to comperss the slave cylinder (push on the inside brake pad) This will make it so you can put the new pads in and still get it back on the disc. Pop ou tht eold pads, put the new ones in, and start bolting things back together. Not much to it.

unless you need to replace the rotors then when you retighten the spindle nut it is 75 foot lbs..back off 1/2 turn then tighten 25 inch pounds

i have 1994 s10 4cyl 2.2 and with my starter it was the wire between the starter and the solenoid. it was so high up and hidden under there that i didnt realize that this was the problem until i removed the old starter and replaced it with a new one. also, the wires were so close at the break that it would connect and start about 3 out of 5 times so changing the starter was just a shot in the dark that worked for me.

Additional information needed:

How does the starter motor turn but the solenoid not "fire"? If the solenoid is faulty, the starter won't turn at all. It sound more like the starter isn't actually engaging so the starter runs, but the gear doesn't come forward and turn the flywheel. You'll have to replace the starter

The map sensor on a '00 Accent GS is on the intake manifold above the fuel injectors about midway across the engine. It's s little black box with a screw on each side and a harness coming off of it. Go to hmaservice.com and look up your car. (a 2000 is an Accent LC) then look under Fuel System, Engine Control System, Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP). Good Luck!

Jay

Some Ford rims have the same bolt pattern and similar offset as some Jeeps.

A specific yes or nor answer would require a specific make, model, and year for both vehicles in question.

Most rim manufactures and retail sellers, and most Jeep and Ford owner forums have lists of rim sizes and bolt patterns that you can use to answer your own question.

At that time several after-market conversions were available. You only need to find one of those and the conversion process shouldn't be terribly difficult. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Considering the costs involved if there is a problem with the electronic ignition, I'd stick with the easy to trouble shoot and cheaper to repair distributor point system.

You have no pressure because in order for the pump to work it has to be primed, they sell a tool for that, but before ya go spendin more money, are you POSITIVE you have the right pump, and the drive for the pump is inserted and seated correctly, how are you reading oil pressure? Electric gage? is that working right? If you are using the original oil pickup tube make sure its not obstructed,if your using a new pick up tubemake sure there the same length. To make things a bit more complacated are your oil passages in the engine blocked? Engine stop leak is great for that! Hopefuly it only needs to be primed though! LOL Good luck

I see no listing for the Daewoo Matiz. Other Daewoos are all Interferance engines, and as such if the belt breaks severe engine damage will occur. Here are other Daewoo models and the specs in miles for belt replacement. Find your engine and it will be the same. Lanos 1999-02 1.6L 4-Cyl. (DOHC) 60,000 Federal 102,000 Federal Leganza 1999-02 2.2L 4-Cyl. (DOHC) 72,000 Federal 102,000 Federal Nubira 1999-02 2.0L 4-Cyl. (DOHC) 72,000 Federal 102,000 Federal