Ford Windstar LX

Owner's manual. I would suspect this is the Traction Control light.

The lenses, like those of many other newer model cars, get cloudy with time. This cloud can be removed by way of simple polishing. If you have access to a right angle drill and a polishing pad, you have the tools you need. Now, before mounting your polishing pad on the rubber, (flexible), backing plate soak it in water then wring it as dry as possible, by hand. Mount the pad then apply a bit of polishing compound to the pad and a smear on the lens. I use old fashioned Dupont polishing compound paste. Carefully polish the entire lens with the pad. Apply more compound as needed. Be careful. The compound is an abrasive and will remove the paint and chrome plating from neighboring parts. You can use masking tape to cover and protect them.

After a couple minutes of polishing, use a clean dry cloth to remove the compound haze. Continue working the compound on the lenses until you are happy with the results. Wipe them with the clean dry cloth and you're done. Think of it like waxing the car. By the way, the process can be done by hand too. It just takes longer. I don't recommend a standard straight angle drill as they are very hard to control on smooth rounded surfaces.

THE HEATER CORE MUST BE REPLACED. IF THE HEATER CORE DOES NOT

WORK THEN YOU'LL ONLY RECEIVE AIR PUSHING THROUGH THE VENTS

THE HEATER CORE HEATS UP WHEN YOU SET TO WARM/HOT AIR ON YOUR DASH BOARD (LIKE LITTLE HOT COILS) THE BLOWER FAN PUSHES THROUGH THE HEATER CORE GIVING HEAT AS IT PASSES THROUGH THE VENTS. THESE HEATER CORES GENERALLY COST $20.OO DOLLARS

EXAMPLE: YOU TURN ON A BOX FAN DURING THE SUMMER TO COOL OFF

AND EVERYTHING IS GOOD/COMFORTABLE. NOW YOU PLACE A RADIATOR

IN FRONT OF THE BOX FAN AND YOU'LL RECIEVE HOT AIR .

GET THE PICTURE. SO THE HEATER CORE AND RADIATOR WORK TOGETHER

AND THE ANTI-FREEZE. THE RADIATOR WARMS UP-THEN THE HEATER CORE

AND THE FAN BLOWER PUSHES THE WARM AIR OUT THROUGH THE VENTS.

HOPE THIS HELPS

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

STAY WARM.

.......................................................................................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Diverter is improperly engaging in the dash. Turn all dash switches off. Turn on truck, turn heater switch to max heat, then turn switch to vent. Feel any heat coming from dash? Now turn fan up a notch. You may hear the diver flap engage, and air gets cooler. Got drop dash to fix it

There is a button under the top cover that releases the internal part of the vcr player to come out of the console.

Even though tape is so "yesterday", I still keep a few in the van for moments of idle entertainment ;)

(pun intended!)

Remove the serpentine belt , runs alt , AC and such try to start if starts, and probly will, check to see which pulley or unit is seized up Alt AC water pump

I think it's 46 foot/pounds.

.35

turn key on but do not start engine.then try to put shift to neutral.if this doesnt work you have a problem

if it does work ,you can then start engine and the lockout switch should reset

It should be on the front of the intake manifold directly above and behind the water pump.

A code P0125 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: * Insufficient warm up time * Low engine coolant level * Leaking or stuck open thermostat * Faulty coolant temperature sensor Another Opinion. Some cars have 4 wire 02 sensors, with 4 wire 02 sensors P0125 can mean your wiring is faulty, as in you missed wired it or its grounded. It can also denote more than one 02 sensor malfunctions. The code often denotes a problem specific to the post cat 02 sensor/'s This is a fuel combustion sensory problem, usually not an engine coolant problem. Additional note: I agree. This is not a "coolant" problem. More often than not, it is an oxygen sensor on one of the banks. Best way is to invest in your own OBDII reader that has a "real time" read out of your car's signals. A P0125 will indicate that your engine is running lean as well. Check the output voltage signals that your oxygen sensors are giving out. I believe it should give a range signal of .04 to .08 voltage output depending on the idle or how much gas you put in. If one of the banks has a STEADY voltage output (i.e. no longer fluctuates), replace that particular O2 sensor. Under normal condition, it's suppose fluctuate when the engine is running. If the voltage signal no longer fluctuates, it's due for a replacement. The reason behind this is that the computer readout is starting to mis-calculate based on the wrong signal output of the bad sensor. It will then automatically try to compensate to balance the rich/lean gas ratio. But because the computer's calculation will never be correct due to the wrong voltage signal, you will then get P0125. DO NOT BUY A GENERIC BRAND when replacing an O2 sensor. That's what got me in to this mess. Stick with an OEM sensor. Try SPARKPLUGS.COM for O2 sensor replacement.

2000 3.8 Lower intake manifold (manifold to cylinder head) 1st step is 44 inch pounds, 2nd step is 89 inch pounds. This must be done in sequence.

Check for vacuum leak either under dash or hood Check for bad vacuum motor under dash Defrost is the default setting for this vehicle

not quite sure yet but im in the process of installin one with the help of x-speed here in Perth w.a so watch this space and i will tell you very shortly

One of the hardest codes to track down.

The system has detected a misfire that cannot be attributed to any one cylinder.

The best way to go is cheapest first, so install new, properly gapped spark plugs and replace the plug wires. That will leave only the much more expensive coils and ignition control module for that system.

If no change then move on to the fuel system before spending big bucks.

also this could be caused by bad fuel performance or clogged injectors so change the fuel filter, check fuel pump performance, and first try a fuel injector cleaner before removing and cleaning them or replacing them.

O2 sensors are relatively cheap and could possibly set off the code.

If all this fails ( basicly what you have done is a tune up) I suggest having the car put on an engine diagnostic computer to possibly track down the source of the misfire.

Changing out any of the more expensive parts without knowing if it will repair the problem is not a good idea and is costly, an engine diagnostic will cost around $100 and is well worth the money when the tune up has not improved the situation.

yes

You have either put too much oil into the engine or you may have a leak in your cylinder head gasket which is allowing coolant water into the oil - (if this is happening then you will see the water levels going down and perhaps a salad cream colored deposit collecting where you fill the engine with oil.

Three conditions why the oil stick would read too full: (1) too much oil was added; (2) gasoline is getting into the oil; (3) water is getting into the oil. When you check the oil level, smell the oil for a gasoline smell or look for water beads on the dipstick and check the color of the oil. If it is chocolate-colored, there is water in the oil. In either case of gasoline or water in the oil, some repairs will have to be made. If it is just a case of too much oil, you need to drain some out.

perhaps the wiper switch is broken and needs to be replaced.-- The delay part of the Switch.

Neutral safety switch defective or out of adjustment.

You can view the 2001 Ford Windstar owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

The manual shows pictures of the warning lights and explains what they mean

( I think you mean the LOW tire pressure warning light )

Bank #2 fuel system lean.

I own a 1991 Mazda 929 and recently faced the same dilemma. The upper hose is a 'no-brainer' on mine because it is a simple bend located high on the firewall that continues to the left hand side of the engine. The lower hose drops down from its connection, disappearing beneath the exhaust manifold in the direction of the right hand side of the engine. I found that the only way to access it was from beneath the car. By removing the engine starter there is just enough room to reach the hose at its connection point on the engine block behind the motor mount. Good Luck!

Not surprisingly, there is no drain plug - so you'll be using something like a siphon hose.

There is one other alternative: drive it until it's empty - that what my wife does...