Fuel and Engines

Check the fuel pressure. Check the computer codes for possible sensor issues. It is possible that a sensor is sending wrong info to the computer.

Bearing going bad?

Check the "throttle body". I haven't heard that term used before. Different companies use different names for things like that.

I wouldn't have thought exhaust end-can packing would significantly increase power output, or reduce back-pressure. That is normally dealt with by the tuned length of the pipe itself and overall diameter of the exhaust-can internals. Removing the packing will obviously make it noisier, reduce any heat build-up and possible reduce the weight, but only a little. Other than that I don't think there will be much in the way of performance enhancements to be gained. If you however remove the internal pipe work inside the exhaust-can and install a straight-through internal pipe, with custom packaging I would have thought this would give more impressive power gains. The first area for exhaust modifications on a modern bike should really be at the Catalyst end. This device reduces power output, increases weight and heat.

Increasing the rpm (revolutions per minute) would be revving the engine.

If you've already removed the plate that the fuel pump fits on and can't pull the push rod out easily, you may have to lock on with vise grips and twist and pull until it comes out. Could be sludge or the end that rides on the cam could be mushroomed from wear.

I am having the same problem. Big blocks don't have a plate to remove so you're screwed. Even needle nose vice grips don't fit in the "pump hole". I even tried a tire iron in desperation but it still won't come out even with 200lbs of force. In my case, I can't run an electric fuel pump either. $8000 motor brand new. Totally unusable.

Start of with the maintenance items: Tune up parts-cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, pcv, wires. The plug condition may help clue what is going on. Clean Throttle plates and intake valves

if you were running at 5:5 compression then maybe.

otherwise, no. It will ruin your engine and clog it up

Not quite true. Most modern passenger car diesels, require a light synthetic or semi-synthetic oil, usually around 5w-30. A lot of brands can be used safely in either petrol (gasoline) or diesel engines.

when replacing a frost plug u can use a sealant but only use silicone u dont realy need it and yes u have to clean the area good

Typically, and generally speaking, black smoke indicates excess fuel cunsumption while oil burning is usually a bluish grey smoke. here are two types of rings on most pistons: Compression rings and Oil rings.

Compression rings are easily checked by performing a thorough compression test. Any competent technician would be able to perform a wet/ dry compression test to check for ring condition.

Oil rings are more difficult to verify. One simple test is to head down a steep long hill allowing the engine to slow the car, letting off the gas) at the bottom of the hill, accelerate and check for a excess "puff" of bluish grey smoke. This is often a good indication of worn oil rings (as opposed to other causes of oil consumption).

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The purpose of Valve Ports is to let exhaust gases out of the cylinder and to let air and fuel mixture into the cylinder!

Per the owners manual 1.3 qts (1.2L) if re-using the oil filter, 1.4 qts (1.3L) if replacing the oil filter.

To sense some given value of the engines operation.

Ford Lazer 1986 KC is also a Rebadged Mazda 323

Cam Shaft Timing

There are marked timing positions found on both the alluminum housing including the two Cogs; where the Timing Belt goes.

On the top Timing Belt Cog there are two markers.

One on the Aluminum Rocket Cover at the 12 oclock potion and another on the Head at the 3 oclock postion.

Line up the two markers on the top Timing Gear cog with these two pointers.

With the cog on the bottom crank that the timing gear also conects to there is a grove line that up with the pointer at the 12 oclock postion.

Then put on your Timing Belt and every thing will be lined up correctly.

Your next issue that you may need to contend with is your Valve Clearences... if the Valve clearence are incorrectly set your engine will not iddle with out a foot on the excelerator.

Addjust your Valve Clearnces ... When the engin is hot .30mm on both inlet and exsort should do the trick

210 H.P. 300lbs Torque

Pollution.

bad oil ring,time to freshen up the eng

To "fit" without significant alterations, you can use a 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.1L, 3.3L, 3.4L, 3.8L GM car engine. With minor alterations you can also fit in a 2.2L, 2.4L, 2.5L, 3.5L V6 (not inline 6), or 4.0L, 4.1L, 4.2L, 4.5L, 4.6L, 4.9L, or 5.3L GM car engine.

Making an engine other than that originally used may require some alterations to the electronic control systems.

Thanks for helping. I did put in a K&N air filter and I noticed a difference with it. I tried some splitfire spark plugs but my truck wouldn't run on them; it kept chugging and wanted to die on me when driving. The biggest thing is when I shift from 2nd to 3rd gear while going up an incline I notice a dramatic drop in horse power and it is even worse when I shift from 3rd to 4th. Going up an incline I have to be in 3rd gear and I can barely reach 50-55 mph!

You may be able to net 5-10 horses with a well-tuned engine running performance plugs, air filter, and other cheap "mods". If you have deeper pockets, you may want to look into aluminum or ported heads. Your motor will probably die if you tried nitrous or supercharger/turbocharger. You'd have to build up your engine and most likely your tranny as well in order for it to survive for any length of time Your rear end should be OK.

I have the EXACT same truck and i noticed the same thing. i wanted more hp so i put a K&N air filter and i did notice a pick up in power but im not sure its enough. The same thing happened to me when going up hills too. it still has problems when i shift it in high gear up a hill so i just keep it in third most of the time if its a high incline.

Yeah i have a 1995 Chevy s10 2.2L. I added the K&N intake, noticed some increase, but it wasn't enough. So i looked around and found a variety of options. One is a computer chip, this could increase up to 15% in HP, and 5- 10% in Torque. Another option is Electric fans in the front, dual fans help cool the motor better, and reduce drag on the motor, drastically increasing torque fer that gid'up on the line.The next stage is Nitrous... I know, "but im gonna blow it" true if you don't get the right stuff. ZEX Nitrous makes a beautiful wet kit for this truck. Takes about 6 hours to install even by an amateur. This kit sprays raw fuel and nitrous in a fogger system. This gives you more horsepower. Selectable from 55 to 75 HP, and doesnt lean out your air-fuel mixture, so your rings don't die. About 650 shipped from ZEX.comAfter this another Intake modification. CRYO2 Intake cooling system. This system is cool your air down to -80 Degrees Fahrenheit. That's real cold. You put this after your mass air flow sensor, tricks your ECU, and BAM more air in your engine, hotter burn so lower that thermostat temp to about 90-95 degrees.This system is completely compatible with the nitrous kit....BUT DO NOT run both the COMPUTER CHIP, and the either the nitrous/cryo2 combo... THIS WILL BLOW YUR ENGINE UP.If you want the computer chip to get better power when your not wanting to run NITRO then get on with a On/Off switch... about $300.

You combine all this and you too can run low 15's from a 4 banger. With a racing clutch, and so good traction. I recommend CENTERFORCE Stage 2 cltuch. And YOKOHAMA A-046 Racing tires, these go on EVO 8's. HOT TIRES.HAVE FUN READERSyour good-fun-having washingtonian street racerSqueeze-N-Freeze

Time to trade up. Buy a used or new truck with a slightly bigger engine.Why hold on to a small and slow 4 banger?Is it the challenge of making it run with more power?At least a V6 can usually get out of its own way.

Life is too short to tinker this much (especially if you run afoul of the emissions laws and their keepers - keep it legal and avoid hassles).In an emission controlled vehicle, there is only so much that you can do and still be legal.Of course with gas over $2 per gallon, perhaps you will want to rethink the purchase or a used or new truck with a slightly larger motor. How good is your gas mileage? Perhaps you can get top dollar for your used vehicle, if you sell it as an economical 4 cylinder economy truck.

I am having the same problem. I am amazed that Chevy would create such a truck. I am trying to go fast but I would think that one should be able to cofortably achieve 75 mph in a 1997 vehicle.

belts

probablly not getting fuel check your fuel filter unless timing is off

Is there any smoke when you first start it? what is happening is the valve seals are probably worn and letting the oil seep past them. when your engine is first started it has no oil or very little oil at the top of the engine, thus causing the knocking noise. could be more but this is a most likely . oh and is you haven't changed your oil every 3,000 miles you had beeter start doing it....

knocking sounds usually come from bottom of engine try a better quality and correct viscosity oil

does it stop after warming up? could be faulity engine lifters. lpaws45.

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lpaws45 is pretty accurate for most engines with a genuine engine knock. But on a Mitsubishi Endeavor, my guess is you aren't using premium (91 octane) fuel 100% of the time as recommended by Mitsubishi. This creates carbon build-up on top of the pistons which in turn creates a knocking sound very similar to a lower-end engine knock. This knock will eventually occur at all times, hot or cold. The cure is to have an engine decarbon procedure performed (having a professional run a solvent through the intake vacuum) and start using premium fuel. The added fuel mileage from using premium with a 3.8 liter Mitsubishi V6 will more than pay for the extra cost.

Honestly yes. it can cause major problems and all together it could cause your engine to blow. so id change them they arent that hard.

The factory sticker on mine says it should be .008 on both intake and exhaust.