Geo Tracker

I'm not sure what you mean by set. This is a difficult and complicated procedure. I'd check on lexusownersclub.com forums as I know there is detailed tutorials. vbdenny

fill it until you just cover the top of the plates. Use only distilled water to fill it. Do not tamper with maintenance free batteries. They are sealed for life.

Smaller engines generally need to run at higher RPM's in order to produce enough power to keep you moving at the rate you want. Larger V8's produce a lot of HP/torque so they are able to run at less than 2,000 rpm at 65 MPH. Smaller enines need to produce a lot of power to get you up to speed, so that accomplish that by running at higher RPM's. ==New Answer== Be sure the transmission torque converter lock-up clutch (TCC) is functioning before resigning to the possibility that "all four cylinder engines need a lot of RPMs to develop the power to cruise at high-way speeds". My Tracker's TCC is not functional due to an electrical problem inside of the trans and this is causing excessive engine speed at 60 MPH,also.Be advised though, that with the TCC operational,there is only a 300 RPM difference compared with it not working, at least on my '91 Tracker. Also, be certain the trans is shifting into all of the gears it was designed to provide.

The 1991 Geo Tracker wiper blade sizes are 17" wiper blades on both sides front and a 16" rear wiper. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

If you take the left front wheel off and the outer casing of the four wheel drive hub and see missing bearings, then it is the wheel bearing. If the bad bearing is in the part that you removed, the hub locker, then it will require replacement. I am wrestling with a bad wheel bearing & hub now myself, on a 93 Tracker 4wd. I need a place to buy parts. I can't find the hub anywhere. I found my new replacement wheel hub @ Autozone. $96.00 + tax.

Hi, This is a guess but at least it'll be a statrt. Could the switch assy be either bad or if the contacts are cleanable can they be cleaned. The switch assy is on the steering colume. You need to remove the plastic covers and take a look at the switch assy. I'm having an interminnent problem that's close to that, and that's where I'm looking. I've seen some switch assys for sale on E-Bay. Just type in Tracker and see what comes up otherwise find a local salvage yard and you'll probably pull the part yourself. Hope this helps. Steve H. The above answer is a possibility but the most logical cause of this is a blown fuse or bad Flasher Relay. Any parts store can tell you the location. I would check the fuse first and then replace the flasher if the fuse is OK, before doing anything else. Very cheap and easy repair.

Hi, I for one would like to know if you are asking about manual or auto hubs? The manual hubs are real simple but the auto hubs are a bit more. Please let us know what you have and I'll get back as soon as I know. Steve H.

I have four of these vehicles. The one with the 5 speed is the one that was doing this. It would sometimes stall at stop lights, restart and it was normal. I had a guy clean all the carbon out of the intake system which cost about $105.00 and it does not stall anymore. Be aware that he had the equipment needed to do this. I have heard that running a product named "Seafoam" through the intake can clean out carbon buildup. This is done two ways. The easiest way is to add the Seafoam directly to the fuel tank. Check the bottle for the proper amount to add. The second way is slightly more difficult, but probably more effective. First, start the vehicle. Then disconnect the vacuum hose that runs into the brake booster. SLOWLY add the product by introducing it into this line. The vacuum pulls it into the intake system. Do not choke the engine with it, add it SLOWLY. After adding the amount you are supposed to (again, check the bottle), shut the motor off and let it sit a while (1 hour?) During this time, the Seafoam will basically steam clean the intake. When you restart it, it will smoke like a freight train out of the exhaust, this is the carbon being blown out. DO NOT DRIVE IT, let it sit and run. Seafoam is catalytic converter safe, so don't worry. After this is done, the carbon problem should be much better, and power may be better. I've done this before, and it seems to work well. Check with a mechanic for clarification as to the vacuum line location. Good Luck.

#1 Internail locking hub may be frozen in place with rust or thick grease. #2 May have a problem with transfer case.

You want the dash right by the "E" stamped on the cam gear lined up with the notch on the valve cover(only pay attention to E marks because the other marks don't pertain to this engine!). After you have those two points lined up, there is a dot on one of the teeth on the crank gear than needs to be lined up with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the engine front cover. Ignition timing is 8 degrees before TDC for the 16v motor. BOY, you need a Haynes manual!! They are worth there weight in gold!!

The cam sprocket has an "E" adjacent to the timing mark which lines up at 12 o'clock with the V mark on the camshaft seal cover. There is a notch mark on the lower timing belt sprocket that aligns with the mark on the engine front cover at 12 o'clock. These must be set on the proper stroke of the engine as well. Recommend the purchase of a Haynes Repair Manual for your Tracker (1986-2001). It's a fairly complicated 27 step procedure and must be done exactly right. I'm doing that very task on my 97' Tracker right now (it's cold!). Much good advice to keep you from ruining the engine. You can get the manual at your local car parts store - not too expensive <$20, well worth it. Good Luck

it is on top of or on the side of the tranny...

On the 1995 4wheel drive model it is located on the top of the tranny .

Once you realize that it is just a matter of crawling nearly on top of your COOL engine and navigating straight back, (under the hood)...dead center to the top of the tranny, you will have no difficulty seeing, unbolting/screwing off the old switch and replacing it with the new. BTW, Get one with a lifetime warranty as they rarely last the lifetime of a tracker. ...and keep the receipt.

Afterthought...I found it much easier using an open ended wrench with a little bevel / angle as I have huge 'paws'.

No way that is cost effective. Changing shocks will not help as the Tracker was not designed for a smooth ride.

buzzzzzz.

no , they sell progress rate springs for all sidekicks

Google it , they are popular

and easy to install if you can manhandle a wrench.

http://www.kick-fix.com/

also P205 stock tires and set pressure to door sticker value, min is 28psi.

over pressuring them causes bad stopping and traction and harsh ride.

put 300 lbs sand in rear. sand bags. mother in law?

or go to Mexico and have them torch your spings (sorry that works but is unsafe)

The problem isn't the bolt pattern as there are may rims available with that pattern out there. The issue is getting one to fit inside the wheel well. The rims that are out there are designed for the larger American trucks with that bolt pattern and therefore the offset pushes them out. That makes them "illegal" on the tracker because the tires stick out of the fenders too far. You can correct that by installing large flares, but that's about all you can do.

You don't determine if the fuel filter is bad; you just change and move on

see my profile.

yes, 1/2 inch free play.

The fuel pump relays are mounted on an "L" bracket underneath the ECM. Both have something to do with the Fuel pump. Be careful not to get it confused with the horn relay it is in the same vicinity (under the dash on the drivers side).

For the crank shaft, there is a mark on the oil pump gear which should be straight up, same as the key way if you want to go by that. On the cam the pulley has a mark that should be pointing straight up toward the "V"

in the cover behind the pulley. Hope this helps.

I did a 1993 transmission but they should be the same if you also have a two-wheel drive.

I ran into several problems and it took me three tries. So I will try and help you avoid the problems that I had.

My first real problem was with the speedometer gear. I did not get it right and I broke the housing and jammed the tailshaft. And the used replacement needed the gear changed which was a hassle. It should go in fairly easily, so if it does not, pull it out, twist the teeth a little and try again.

Second was the flex plate/ring gear. After running it just a few miles after changing the transmission, the center section of the flex plate broke out so make sure you check it BEFORE putting the new transmission. The Suzuki dealership mechanic said he had never seen one broke before so mine might have been unique, but check anyway.

Tips to make it easier:

· Change over all the lines, tubing, speedometer housing, bolts, brackets, etc. (with two exceptions noted below) before putting the transmission in.

· Disconnect the battery before starting the removal of the old one.

· Do not install the bracket for the shift cable on the side of the bellhousing until after the transmission is bolted to the engine. It interferes with the body when trying to put the transmission in.

· Remove the catalytic section of the exhaust before pulling the old transmission. If you let the transmission hang after bolting it to the engine, then you will have clearance to install the bracket.

Good luck!

There is a four pin diagnostic port under your hood in front of the battery with a black cover over it. Remove black rubber cover and take a paper clip or wire and jump the pin with the black wire to the pin with the blue/yellow wire. with the port "jumped" turn key into the on position. Codes should then read, if not, then locate a small switch located behind the cover where your drivers side front speaker is, remove cover and flip the switch and light should go out as this is a maintenance reset switch put in place at the factory. May have to remove speaker to locate switch.

you need to buy bearings and bearing races most times they will come as a set you will also need axle seals and you will need bearing grease

put trany into neutral and put t-case in neurtal

put the key into the ignition and turn 1 click so the stereing lock is off

and you are good to go