Grand Am SE

I just had to replace mine. There are 3 screws that hold the housing to the vehicle. Remove the 3 screws and slide the housing out. The bulb goes in the housing from the back. Turn the lock ring, remove the old bulb, disconnect the bulb, put the new bulb in in reverse order.

The bulb bracket has notches in it. Align them carefully with the tabs in the headlamp housing.

The dealer tells me it is just in front of the gas tank, may have to lower the tank to gain access.

It doesn't have a dipstick like a normal car. It was to taken to the dealership and lifted up to be serviced.

undo the trim plates around the top of the seat and all trim around it and it just pops out, no bolts screws or clips.

Because being cool is popular. And to be cool, you must smoke, because smoking is cool. Some people think smoking is "cool" and they want to fit in even though smoking is complelety unhealthy and makes the breath stink. In some parts of the world smoking is declining in popularity eg in Britain it was banned in public buildings and statistics show people have cut down.

1: open the door 2: there is a small cover at the top right corner of the door panel. it should have a little speaker in it. gentley pull this cover off. 3: remove the insulation 4: there are 3 10mm nuts holding the mirror on (a 10mm deep socket will be helpfull at this point), remove them 5: for power or manual mirrors you will next need to remove the switch panel on the door. this will allow you access to the controls for the mirror. 5a: for power mirror simply unplug the wires for the switch 5b: for manual mirror you will need to carefully remove the mirror adjuster from the switch panel 6: next replace mirror and tighten nuts 7: plug in mirror power controls, or push manual controls in place 8: replace switch panel 9: replace insulation 10: replace cover

signal light combi switch is worn out the copper contacts are to soft and wear out easily another common one is the flasher its built into the four way switch

My 2000 Grand Am SE 2.4 made an on again off again electrical buzzing like noise that sounded like someone trying to jump start Frankenstien in an old movie. It seemed to be coming from the middle of the dash. You could feel it buzzing when you touched the hazard button plus my turn signals and hazard lights did not work. turned out there was a special policy thing like a recall where the hazard flasher had to be replaced. Pontiac did it for free and all my signals work now but I still have a noise from the flasher. You can hear it clicking after I turn off the turn signal. It eventually stops after a few minutes until I use the turn signal again. I was told my multi function turn signal switch is bad like the other guy above said. My Pontiac dealer wanted over $300 to fix...OUCH!

First pressure test system to determine where leak originates

MY 1999 ALSO DOES THAT.THE MECHANIC LOOKED UP PAST CASES AND SAID THE ACTUAL BLINKER/CONTROL ARM IS GETTING WORN,BUT NO NEED TO REPLACE IT YET THAT I SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET ANOTHER COUPLE OF YEARS OUT OF IT BY JUST MOVING THE CONTROL ARM(TURN SIGNAL)AROUND A LITTLE BIT.IT DOES WORK!!! KEEP IN MIND WHEN YOU USE YOUR BLINKER YOU MAY HAVE TO MOVE IT AROUND A LITTLE BIT AGAIN.GOOD LUCK!! JERRY Your turn signal multi function switch needs to be replaced, it's worn. It can be pretty pricey at the dealer.

the firing order for a 3.1L pont.from 1995 & earlier is 1-2-3-4-5-6.

R-134

there is a switch on the passenger side floor board under the dash. if you pull the carpet down it's close to the center hump,it's square with a reset button on the top.

Typically, a bad or "going bad" alternator.

Most likely, the clutch or the clutch pilot bearing is dragging. This is caused by clutch hydraulic leaks not letting the clutch fully disengage or the clutch pressure plate/disc/flywheel is warped. Crawl under the car, (engine off)have a friend push/release pedal, see if slave cylinder throw seems adequate and look for leaks. If throw is short, problem is in the clutch hydraulics; if throw is normal, problem is the clutch.

Replace or rebuild the engine. In all but the most obscure cases, low oil pressure is caused by worn bearings. Replacing the oil pump won't help.

The spark plug firing order for the 4.9 L ( 300 cubic inch ) straight 6 cylinder is : ( 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 ) The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE The engine cylinders / spark plugs are numbered : 1 through 6 , from FRONT TO BACK

I found some general advice for depresurizing the fuel line - pull the fuse for the fuel pump and then crank the engine a few times. Find the schrader( tire) valve on the fuel rail at the engine intake and using a rag to soak up the gas and care not to spray in your eyes press in on the valve as if you were leting air out of your tires.

2.2 liter 4 cylinder:

1-3-4-2

cylinder layout:

belt side 1 2 3 4 flywheel side

3.4 liter V6:

1-2-3-4-5-6

BACK OF CAR

coil pack layout:

[5-2]--[3-6]--[4-1]

cylinder layout:

2 1

4 3

6 5

FRONT OF CAR

see also:

autorepair dot about dot com/od/enginefiringorders1/Engine_Firing_Orders.htm

...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the local library should have a professional shop manual available, to make copies of, in the Reference section...good luck:)

With proper maintenance probably 200,000 miles

This proceedure may sound involved, but it is quite easy. Just a matter of finding all the fasteners (screws).

There are three or four small, exposed screws to remove along the bottom & side of the panel. Additionally, there is a plastic cover over the center of the door handle that must be removed. A flat screwdriver works well, just be gentle to avoid any noticable scratches to the trim. Under it you will find another screw to remove. Also remove the small plastic plugs - one on the door arm rest, the other on the panel - and remove them to access two more screws. The small, triangular trim piece at the corner of the front window adjacent the mirror will need to be removed. There is a plastic plug & screw to remove as well. The plug over the triagular trim gave me trouble as it's hard plastic & quite snug. I simply drove a screw into it about 1/4 inch and pulled it out by the screw, then replaced it with a new one when done. The last screw is under the paddle that opens the door. It simply holds the plastic trim in place. Depending on model year, there may or may not be a plastic plug covering it.

Finally, with all the screws removed, pull the window switch up and unplug it, and set it aside. Now gently pull the bottom of the panel away from the door a few inches and lift the panel. Focus most of the lifting at the end away from the mirror as the mirror hardware may still be a bit of an obstruction.

It requires a special tool available at the parts store cheap.

Use 2 Screwdrivers, force a rag between the door and the window crank handle to give you some space, then pry the clip apart or take a small hook, hook under the loop of the pin and pull up.

You really can't turn it off. They sell bypass kits, but the passlock system has to be working in order for the bypass thing to work.

"Motor control" generally refers to the physical dexterity of a human or other animal.

It is primarily affected by two things:

Physical condition: general bone/muscle structure

Mental condition: ability of the brain to interact with the muscle system. Typically divided into rapid motor control (ability to create rapid gestures that cause significant motion) and fine motor control (the maximum level of precision that can be achieved)

It could very well be an alternator/battery/charging system issue, bit it could be other things as well. Start by checking the conditions of your battery cables, the wiring running from the positive battery cable to the starter (make sure it is tight at both ends and in good condition) Check the primary out put wire from the alternator to the starter and make sure it doesn't show signs of overhearting. The wire is the large red or orange wire coming from a single terminal on the back of the alternator. Other causes could be a loose or defective connector on the back of the instrument cluster. Check the connectors and grounds to make sure they are in good condition, clean and tight. The problem could be the instrument panel itself. If it is, when you replace it your will have to do a learn procedure before the engine will start. To do this, you need to turn the key to the run postition and let the car sit until the "Anti-theft" light on the instrument panel stops blinking. Then turn the key off and the engine should start on the next try. This is all part of the Anti-theft system on you car and it involves the PCM (computer), Instrument Cluster, and the ignition switch. Good Luck if its a grand am gt with the "2.4 twin cam" then check the wire from the batt to the starter and from the alt to the starter i have a 2.4 and the guages went crazy because the wire from the starter to the battery was loose on the starter it also killed the battery because the alternator wire is connected to it at the starter if that makes sense -captain I had the same problem and it was the wire. I thought I tightened everything, and I had no problems for month. Now it's back. How can I keep everything tight back there? In addition to losing my gauges, I also lose my HVAC and power windows when the connection is interrupted. it sounds like you need to replace your instrument cluster. i actually replaced mine today my next problem is resetting the computer so the car will start have fun Your Alternator belt could be bad, I had the same problem. I just had to replace the alternator in my 96 Grand Am...and it did exactly what you described to a T. Good luck! My suggestion: go to a wrecking yard for the alternator (a yard that warranties parts like those) and then have a friend or someone who knows what they're doing change it for you. Otherwise, it will cost you an arm and a leg.