Radiators

The radiator drain on a 1995 - 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 pick-up truck is located at the inside bottom left corner of the radiator (driver's side facing the wheel). It is difficult to access due to the front metal wheel well guard (using hands to slightly bend - an inch or so out - the lower inside front corner into the wheel well provides a little better access without removing any bolts & you can bend it back later to its original position). The radiator drain petcock is plastic with a vertical plastic turning blade. You may need a narrow diameter petcock tool to open this as it tends to stick if not opened/closed for a couple years (I made a quick "tool" out of a 10 inch piece of 1/2" thick-wall PVC by cutting a 3'16" wide by 1/2" deep notch into one end, drilled two 1/8" thru holes 90 degrees to each other thru the opposite end and used a nail in these holes for leverage to turn the "tool" - saved $12+ and a 30 mile trip to the parts store). The petcock needs to be turned approximately 90 - 120 degrees counterclockwise to pop out and open (do not force further counterclockwise or you may break the petcock!). The contents of the radiator will run onto the frame due to GMC's poor engineering) and drip from several places, so have additional buckets ready to chase the mess. (The draining process was relatively slow, taking about 10 minutes to drain 12.8 quarts of old fluid, so be patient!).

Could be a bad fuse Could be a bad temp sensor Could be a bad relay

if there is no drain petcock on lower radiator tank, removing bottom radiator hose at radiator is the only way to drain radiator

On the 2.4L z24 I think you are talking about the one on top on the driver sid. That is the OUTLET GASKET and it is a rubber O RING.The temp. sensor is screwed into that to detect cooling temp. as it leaves the engine. Coolant leaves the engine to head to the radiator to be cooled.

You install "stop leak" in the radiator per the MFG directions.

Dont use barsleak use a chemical called therma weld it work perfect for me its about 300$ and worth it!!!!

Crawl under the car and look up at the radiator near the passenger side. you should see a hole in the body plastic that helps protect any debris from hitting the engine. The hole is for the radiator drain plug and it takes a fat Philips screwdriver to undo the plastic plug. If the coolant is dark green, you waited to long to change the fluid, hope a good flush fixes any cooling problems. on a scale of 1-10, I would rate it a 2 since all it takes is some fluid and a screwdriver.

Most motorists know it's recommended that our vehicle's oil should be changed about every 3,000 miles. Drivers are less educated, however, about proper intervals for their vehicle's other vital fluids. For the cooling system, antifreeze manufacturers recommend changing the coolant once a year, and some service manuals stipulate flushing and refilling the radiator every 24 months, regardless of mileage. Antifreeze Importance Antifreeze serves two important functions: protecting the cooling system at temperature extremes and inhibiting rust and corrosion in the system. Many antifreezes also have additives that help lubricate the water pump and thermostat, so coolant has multiple advantages over plain water. Glycol Styles Antifreeze's active ingredient is glycol. "Standard" coolants contain ethylene glycol (EG), which is toxic to people, pets, wildlife and groundwater. In recent years, less-toxic antifreezes containing propylene glycol have become available. These products advertise comparable cooling qualities to EG antifreezes but with less environmental impact. Either way, always clean up any coolant spills/radiator boil-overs promptly. Draining & Flushing Rust and sediment can accumulate in the cooling system. Flushing the radiator helps keep the cooling system clean. Begin by parking the car away from kids, pets and storm drains. Elevating the car on ramps can make the job easier. With the ignition off, engine cool, car in Park and emergency brake set, remove the radiator cap. Place a bucket or pan (minimum 2-gallon capacity) under the radiator drain plug and open it. Close the plug once the coolant flow ends. For more thorough draining, remove the plug(s) in the engine block (if so equipped) to release the coolant that remains in the engine. If the old coolant appears rusty or contaminated, flush the system with a radiator-cleaning product to further remove sediment. With all drain plugs closed, fill the radiator with a flush/cleaner product and plain water. Then run the vehicle with the heater on high for as long as the flush product's instructions specify. Once the engine cools, drain the flushing solution, refill the radiator with plain water, and repeat the sequence following the flush's instructions. Refilling Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the antifreeze bottle for proper coolant-to-water ratio, which can vary between 40% and 70% antifreeze based on vehicle and climate. Fill the radiator appropriately then fill the overflow reservoir to the appropriate level with a 50/50 mix. Clean up any spills immediately. Close the cap(s) and run the vehicle up to operating temperature with the heater on high to circulate the coolant throughout the system. Once the engine cools, check for leaks. After a few days of driving, double-check the coolant mixture with a hydrometer or test strips (both of which are available inexpensively from the parts store) and adjust the concentration as necessary. Additives Various chemical additives are formulated to improve cooling-system performance while you drive. Rust inhibitors are designed to reduce oxidation and neutralize acids; many also include lubricants for the water pump and thermostat. Flushing your car's cooling system isn't the most glamorous way to spend a Saturday morning. But just as your refrigerator's coils need periodic vacuuming for proper operation, keeping the car's cooling system clean is cheaper and easier than the consequences of ignoring it. A reverse flush is the best way. I would get one of the Prestone flush kits and follow the directions. That is if you like to do things yourself, if you don't has a radiator shop do it and tell them you want the radiator flushed and not drained.

Most of the ATF will remain in the trans cooler and lines unless you have the transmission force flushed by a trans shop.

You could have a stuck thermostat or your cooling fans aren't working.

let engine cool -open radiator cap -move a large container under radiator drain fitting( it's hard to see- located on lower left corner of radiator)-attach 3/8" diameter hose to fitting to direct coolant into container- turn fitting counterclockwise-pliers may be needed.

Will a 99 Cadillac deville radiator work in a 2000 Seville

The radiator runs as cheap as $60-70 shipped on eBay

When you changed the Radiator did you flush the engine to remove the transmission fluid that the already mixed with your water in the engine block. If not that would explain the presence of the fluid in the coolant holding tank.

Not terribly likely as they are 2 different bodystyles and 2 different engines

I installed a radiator in my wifes 2000 Dodge Stratus. What I done was buy a Hayes repair manuel. The air conditioning condensor is attached to the radiator . It was not a easy job for me but if you got smaller hands than me it mite not be so bad.

"Where is the radiator drain plug on a 1999 dodge stratus?" Most "drain cocks" I am not being nasty, that is what they are called. they are located on the drivers side. Look on the lower left side, it looks like a wing nut or a straight bar (plastic), some look like a plastic hexagon

I have done this a couple times. I am driving my 4th 940. I had 3 240s before the 940s. First get an all metal radiator. ( Bet your plastic tank split or the upper hose fitting cracked.) I have had good luck with Nissens brand. I think I ordered it from Radiators.com and picked it up locally. Make sure you get the one with the threaded temp sensor mount As for

The cast iron in the block is starting to rust. Drain the radiator, put in a good radiator flush solution and follow the directions, then fill the radiator with the right coolant. Since you're already having rust problems, put in some rust inhibitor. You may need to clean it again and put in more rust inhibitor after things settle down.

Unscrew the plastic drain petcock lower drivers' engine side of the radiator and take off the filler cap

The radiator drain on a 2010 Chrysler Town and Country is on the bottom driver side.

on the lower drivers side of the radiator on the inside is a pet cock that you unscrew to drain the radiator You have to remove the black plastic air scooper on the bottom front of the car to gain access to the drain plug I have seen two types of drain plugs : one you turn by hand or with a set of pliers The other requires a 1/4" socket driver or rachet Turn ccw ~ 1/2 turn to open

autozone.com has online manuals that give you all that info

either the transmission oil line to radiater is not tightene or the oil cooler tank at bottom of radiator has a leak

Did mine last week. Firstly, undo the two wiring harnesses for the two cooling fans and then undo the two top bolts at the top that hold the plastic fan cowling to the radiator. Undo all the hoses that are attached to the top of the radiator. Lift the cowling (with fans attached) out making sure not to damage the fragile radiator fins when removing or installing. Now the trickier bit. The transmission cooler which is in front and to the bottom of the radiator and bolted to the radiator with two screws on either side need to be removed next. For some reason nobody will ever know (if you know tell me to put me out of my misery) one of the two small rubber hose that come from transmission cooler goes into a separate chamber in the bottom of the radiator. Another small hose takes it back to the engine. These two hoses need to be cleaned, removed and immediately plugged so you do not lose all your tranny fluid. Expect the tranny fluid in the radiator to come out on the floor, so cover it. As soon as you start the engine all air in the transmission lines as well as the bottom of the new radiator will be gone so you don't have to do anything further.

Just a couple of things......

Don't bend 8 year old radiator hoses any more than you absolutely have to.

Don't forget to top up the transmission fluid as per the directions with a Dextron 3 type fluid..

Be as absolutely clean as you can with the transmission hoses and the plugs you use to plug them.