Radiators

Find the highest heater hose joint on the dash under the hood, turn the heater water control on, run the car so the water is circulating and loosen the clamp and loosen the joint at the hose to let the air out. When only coolant flows tighten the connection and your done.

Just changed the radiator on my 91 Accord. In short, it's ALOT of hassle. Make sure you have a couple buckets to empty anti-freeze into, and also Transmission Fluid... First, drain the old one. There's a plug on the bottom around the middle that you turn and the antifreeze (slowly) drains out. Then you will need to remove the plastic panel. There's about 8 bolts that hold it on. In the wheel well, 3 along the bumper, and two others in the other wheel well, and two around the middle. Then this entire plastic panel comes out. Next, remove the bottom rad hose, and let it drain into the bucket, then remove the top rad hose, it will drain a bit, but mostly just keep it up. Then you remove the two smaller hoses at the bottom, and drain them into another bucket, this will be Transmisson fluid. Then, disconnect the wires for the fans, the tube for the reserve thank, two brackets on the top held on by two bolts witch hold the Radiator in place, then the entire bugger lifts straight up. It's a little harder than it sounds, so leave at least 5 hours for the job, and expect to be frustrated, as it's EXTREMELY tight with those hose clamps.

bottom of radiator on right side facing engine

either a cracked head or a blown head gasket.

only way to change lower radiator hose is to get underneath the vehicle there is a fawcet on bottom of radiator to dump coolant, then remove hose from underneath vehicle

Get off the computer and run for your life.

What drain plug are you looking for?

the fan might be running constantlty because a temperature sensor is not working or is disconnected. there may be more than one temperature sensor - one that the gauge in the dashboard reads from and another one for the engine management systems. it's probably the latter that is the problem. I've had problems with my car overheating and I've figured out that if i just disconnect that sensor the fan runs nonstop.

It's on the bottom of the radiator, and there's also a coolant drain plug somewhere on the block, but I've never flushed the coolant on mine, so I don't know exactly where. Don't forget to let the engine cool COMPLETELY before you do this. It's not just a matter of you getting burnt, you could also damage the engine if you drain the coolant or oil while its hot.

Your anti-freeze is a Dex-cool anti-freeze. It is not compatiable with the green kind. It is a long life coolant which can last up to 100,000 miles. If you have to top off, do not add water as this coolant comes pre-mixed.

The leak is your water inlet tube behind the thermostat housing. It's a dealer item only, about $90, and it's very difficult to install.

Te drain plug on the raitor should be on the bottom passenger side of the raitor but, if not look on thr driver side as well

Simply when you flush the radiator you are flushing the heater core at the same time!It is connected to the cooling system.Just drain the radiator,add a coolant flush product like prestone coolant flush(sold most auto stores,walmart).Top off with water run truck for about 20 minutes fan speed high, heat on hot use some cardboard placed slid in front of radiator this speeds up the process.Also some tips,leave the radiator cap off for a few minutes because the water level will drop and will need to be topped off before you put the cap back on while doing the flush.Then refill with just water do the same as above and then drain this cleans the flush out to prepare to refill with the normall green antifreeze(prestone,walmarts supertech or other brands)Use the regular antifreeze concentration not the 50/50 versions to me it is easier.Do the same process once you place one gallon of antifreeze and top off with water as I stated above.I would suggest replacing your hoses upper and lower radiator hoses if they are four years old(recommended by hose manufactures) I do and the thermostat when you do this job.If you have any questions beyond this just shoot me a message,I will answer it.I have owned my 87 Mazda b2200 since brand NEW 23 years now.Hope this helps you understand what is necessary to do this task should not take more than two hours to do tops.

Mineral deposits from use of hard water.

No it is not necessary.

If you do not see coolant circulate (move) after the engine reaches normal operating temperature, either the thermostat is stuck in the closed position or the water pump is not working. In either case, the engine will overheat.

there should be a air valve on the engine that you can bleed the bubbles out of the cooling system.

the newer body style rams are very easy.the hardest part is unbolting the power steering cooler from the radiator.you can do this after the radiator is out but you will have additional mess of power steering fluid leaking when lines are removed from the cooler.unbolt the top radiator bolts undue the hoses and slide it up.when refilling the 4.7 with coolant open the bleed screw on the upper hose assembly the size is 8mm hex.fill the cooling system until coolant comes out the bleeder.put the bleed screw back in and run for a while until up to temp shut down and crack the bleed screw.until any air escapes.retighten screw and top off coolant in radiator and the bottle.

Bad seal Bad spring Bad neck on radiator

Driver side of the car. Bottom corner of the radiator. Belive me it's there, my GF called me about 45 minutes ago telling me the car puked out ALL it's coolant (for the third time in 2 years...). I just got back from looking at it and the drain plug broke off this time. I'm going through the Internet to see if it's something *I* can fix, or if it's go to get towed some where (and it's leaning towards getting towed somewhere AGAIN...) (as of 6-24-2007)

Auto transmission radiator has a cooling chamber for transmission fluid to circulate

it is locate under neath of your radiator.drivers side.:)

Sounds like your compressor is locking up.

it is on the side almost at the bottom of the radiator..very hard to get too !!!!

It's on the passengers side of the radiator, at the bottom (of course) on the engine side. Mine has a short length of hose attached to drain it with.