Starters and Ignition Systems

Depends on the year, if it is a newer truck than the theft system will have to be relearned. turn the key on and let it sit for 10 minutes. on some vehicles this works, otherwise you need to have it done at a gm dealer.

First of all, you will have to pull the steering wheel with a puller suited for the job,

when you have the wheel off, turn the key to the on position, then using a small Phillips screwdriver, press the pin located on the cylinder lock housing, the key and lock

should pull out, if not , slightly wiggle the lock back and forth until it comes out. Replacement will run about 7-12.00$, The electrical ignition switch about 12-27.00$..

First of all, make sure your check engine light isn't on. If it is, it could very well be a computer related problem. If it's not on, how much voltage are you getting? You should be getting over 12V at power end of the coil. If not, it won't supply enough current to overcome the resistance of the spark plug gap. At the end of the coil leading to the distributor, you should have a very high voltage in which should be tested with a clamp type multimeter at the bare minimum. That will tell you if your primary system is working properly. If it is, make sure your connections are tight, your secondary wires are in working order, and make sure your distributor/cap/rotor are working properly. That should work.

It's on the passenger side of the vehicle, behind the battery, on the side wall. It's real easy to get to and change.

where is the starter located on a 95 ls 400 lexus? and what tools a need to change it?

underneath the intake, sucks but it can be changed out within a couple hours if you are knowledgeable

It depends on what it's going in.

Strangely enough, price is not necessarily determined by the size of the unit. For instance, the starter out of a semi (all semis use the same starter--the Delco 39) costs $100. A starter for my Saab costs $108. And a starter for the Honda Accord I used to have would cost $120. The truck starter is the largest, the Honda starter the smallest.

1.

Disconnect the battery cable. 2.

Raise the car to a convenient working height. 3.

Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to connector. Note or tag the wiring positions for installation.

On some models it may be necessary to remove the crossover pipe to complete this procedure.

4.

Remove the front bracket from the starter and the two mounting bolts. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter. 5.

Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter front end first, and then remove the unit from the car. 6.

Reverse the removal procedures to install the starter. Tighten the two mounting bolts.

you pull the steering wheel off and underneath you will see a hole with a pin in it. turn your switch to the run position and push the pin up and it should come out

I have a 83 f-150 and replaced all the keys in it. There is a pin below the ign switch you knock out then pull out the key switch. let me know if it helped!

Depends what your problem is. One common problem is that the copper contacts inside the solenoid burn and pit and the starter will not kick in (or maybe just click and not do anything). There's absolutely nothing wrong with the starter motor, nor the solenoid, only the contacts inside the solenoid housing, that pass juice on to the starter motor are bad. I have sat there, miles from home, clicked the starter over and over again and prayed that on the 173rd click it will engage (which it actually does, only at its own evil pleasure). I have repaired twice in 90K miles. If above is your problem, know that you can buy a starter solenoid repair kit (with new copper contacts) from Toyota, for less $, by a country mile, than the price of a new starter. (I actually filed and polished the old contacts once before I got wise to the repair kit.) Then, it is a matter of disassembling stuff around the starter, enough to remove the starter, put it on a bench, disassemble the solenoid and replace the contacts. No rocket science, just careful, tedious work, to not break anything and get everything back together as it was. If you are not willing to let the job teach you, ask somebody else to describe the details.

Crawl under the passenger side and you will be able to find it, looks like a coke can with three wires going to it, a easy change out just make sure to remove the battery first, and have a good socket set with some extender's to get to the back uper bolt depending on the year, get a Haynes Manuel it will save you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

With the flywheel spinning at about 1,000 RPM at idle, the starter, if engaged with the flywheel, would be forced to spin between 15,000 and 20,000 RPM. Once the engine has turned over and is running, the overrun clutch will release the starter from the flywheel and prevent the gears from re-meshing (as in an accidental turning of the ignition key) while the engine is running

There is no starter relay on an Escort. The main battery positive cable goes directly to the starter. A small wire with a clip on it marked s goes to the solenoid. The main battery current to the starter is supplied with this solenoid.

The starter on a 2001 Pontiac Trans Am is located on the driver's side of the motor. It is down low towards the back of the motor.

Disconnect batter ground cable. Remove the upper and lower steering column shrouds. Remove lock screw and disconnect ignition switch electrical connector. Rotate the ignition switch to the RUN position. Remove the two screws retaining ignition switch. Disengage ignition switch from the actuator. When installing new key set, ensure new key set is in the RUN position prior to installion.

On the transmission's bell housing, passenger side.

Your car could have a dead battery. Your key opens your electical system only while a jump allows you use the other car's electical system (good battery and all). It could also be a bad starter. Autozone can check your starter, battery, and alternator for free. that happend on our 94 ford explorer and it turned out to be a bad wire connecting to the starter!

The coil is built into the distributor. For the 1999-2003 Galant straight-four, there are two coil packs. The ignition coils go over the spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 4.

Put an awl in the small hole under nieth of ignition switch,push up, with the ignition in the run position with vehicle off. Pull out in same positon and install new one in the run position.which is same position you will pull out old one.

Just came in the house from doing just that. First remove the heat shield from the exhaust pipes. Next I found it's best to remove the upper radiator hose. ( Gives you room to work). This now gives you some room to get at the 2 starter hold down bolts and the nut that holds the main electrical wire to the starter. Also you can now take off the little plug that goes on top of the starter.Once you take off these bolts, the starter can be removed via the exhaust pipes. The new starter will go on alot faster you'll find. Mine did. Good luck! ***************** I just replaced the starter on a 1999 Galant 3.0 V6 (1999-2003): The starter motor is located on the front of the engine behind the exhaust pipe and next to the oil filter. First disconnect the battery. Next remove the flat, angular heat shield from the starter itself (1x 8mm nut and 2x 8mm bolts). Do NOT try to remove the heat shield from the Exhaust pipe - it can't be removed with the starter in place and it's not necessary anyway. Next remove the oil filter. You'll loose a few ounces of oil so be prepared for that with a drain pan and either cover the removed filter to keep debris out or replace it and remember to check the oil level later. Remove the small signal wire from the solenoid (released by pushing in a tiny lever with a finger tip) and also remove the 12mm nut attaching the positive battery cable to the starter. The starter is held in place by two 14mm bolts. On the engine (passenger) side, there is a 14x30mm bolt threading into the transaxle from the bottom of the starter. On the transaxle (driver) side, there is a longer 14x50mm bolt threading into the top of the starter. Funnily enough, I just replaced the battery two weeks ago. I suspect now that the power of a new battery burned up the worn brushes in the original starter.

the rotor fong on the brick and bracken causes the rack and pinion to slip. Change the synchromesh, and eat retsyn.

When replacing the starter on your Infiniti i35, it is best to seek the advice of a certified auto mechanic. If you aren't experienced in auto repairs you may do more damage by working on it yourself.

on passenger side near rear of motor. Here's a writeup. http://hubpages.com/hub/Starter-Removal-1999-Pontiac-Grand-Prix