Starters and Ignition Systems

the starter location cannot hardly be seen from an engine overview, however if you 1st remove the battery then the air duct you will discover the starte/solenoid to the far left next to 3-4 sensors....

29s here, i work for an automotive company a recently we had a 94 or 95 caddy deville with the north star engine in for a starter replacement. the starter was located in the center of the motor! the engine is a v-shape (v8) with the intake cover acting as a lid overtop of the motor with the starter smack in the center. you would have to remove the intake in order to even see the starter if you have the same motor types.

That is exactly how to remove it on a 97, i have one and the starter is located under the intake.

he solenoid of an autmobile is associated with the starter system and transfers an electric current into the starter motor to set the engine into operation. When the ignition key is turned, current is released from the battery and travels along an insulated wire into the solenoid. The solenoid then releases a small plunger that creates a connection between two internal electrical posts, sends the current down another wire to the starter and forces the starter motor to spin.

Access the starter from underneath the vehicle.

Must remove the flywheel cover because the starter must drop straigt down after its two mounting bolts have been removed.

Obtain re-activate codes and disarm the theft deterrant components including such things as the radio, and disconnect the negative battery cable.

"SAFELY raise the vehicle", (which means the wheels must be blocked, and the vehicle, is safely supported with blocks or Jack stands in the raised position.

Remove the three bolts that hold the flywheel cover on to the engine-transaxle.

Disconnect the electrical connections from the starter.

Loosen both the two bolts that hold the starter in place.

Completely remove one bolt.

Partially remove the second bolt, then support the starter.with one hand, and completely remove this bolt.

This may be an ackward thing for some, but it is possible especially when you only need to begin supporting it after the bolt has been almost completely removed.

on a 92 it's drivers side, mounted on wheelwell, if you goto autozone.com and log in your info, then go to component locations that will tell you where all your relays are located, very well-informed a-z easy searching

The voltage regulator is NOT built in the alternator, it is part of the ECM, that is the Engine Control Module. The module (computer) monitors the charging system and signals the alternator how much voltage to send it to keep the system working properly. the voltage regulator is built in to the alternator

it should be under the passanger side floor board.

remove the steering colum cover there is a pin type button you need to push in on the bottom of the ignition switch. press that and turn the cylinder at the same time. if you dont have a key or it is broke a screwdriver will work been there before.

The starter can be seen under the intake piping. Remove the pipe from the throttle body, and then you'll see the starter. You should be able to trace the negative battery cable to it. It has three bolts and can require much finesse to remove once unbolted.

To remove the igniton lock, remove the steering wheel and turn signal switch housing. From there you will be able to see the lock which holds the ignition lock into place. slide a screwdriver into the slot and apply pressure. The igntion lock can then be pulled out.

Are you sitting down? If the bottom bolt is not there then the bolt is coming into the starter from the inside of the transaxal housing whick means a it's a CVCC type engine. Not sure if you have to pull the engine my accord's starter just went out and this is what I found by feeling no bolt on the bottom mount and sticking a pensicle in there and finding something blocking. The Chilton book that I have shows a pic of the bolt inside the houseing. I'm gona get durnk good luck

The other bolt is behind the stabelizer bar. if your hands and arms are small enough you can get behind it with a rachet wrench and not have to remove the stabelizer bar. It's the upper bolt on the short end of the stabelizer.

there's a bolt on the right front side and one from behind on the left side. Get the new one, look at it, make sure it matches the one that's in there, the bolt from the back is a little tricky, but you can get to it. I had to remove a stabilizer bar thingy to get a wrench and my arm in there. Mine's an 82 Honda accord 3 door hatch back, just swapped it out a month ago.

while looking at ste starter motor from the side of the car stick your left hand around past the upper bolt of the stabalizer bar you willm find a bolt use a # 14 open end wrench it will take time but i did it cool

Well, .. for a 1994 Lumina APV - here's what I did: I replaced the starter in my 1994 Lumina APV (3.8 L V6) after about 120,000 miles. Symptom was that the starter would turn over very slowly when the engine was hot. Nice gentleman @ Autozone told me that the coils tend to deteriorate and heat conducted from the engine causes the starter to heat up and then draw high current when hot. Cold starts were fine - hot starts caused the starter to turn very slowly (like the battery was drained). He tested the starter and it tripped the breaker on the tester two (2) times.

Got a remanufactured one for ~$65.

Here's what I did.

1) Disconnect cable from negative battery terminal

2) Raise vehicle front and suitably and safely support.

3) Remove cover from starter wiring (small right angle-like black plastic cover).

3) Loosen large wiring harness (underneath starter) so that it can be moved out of the way.

4) Remove outer nut and wires from solenoid.

5) Remove outer nut and wires wires from starter.

6) Remove two (2) screws retaining plastic flywheel cover and cover. You will need to do this - otherwise you will be unable to remove the front bolt holding the starter to the engine block. This cover is a small black plstic piece located where starter penertates the flywheel cover.

7) Remove (2) bolts retaining starter to the engine block. One is accessable towards the front of the starter/vehicile and the other (long one) is towards the rear of the vehicle - just behind the frame cross member.

8) Position starter so that if can be dropped down (flywheel gear part first).

9) Reverse the above instructions to install the new starter/solenoid.

Palmboy (6/25/05)

Just changed the starter in my daughter's '97 Aspire, two days ago. It'll help if you go buy the replacement starter prior to removing the old one. It cost me a little over $100 with a $30 core charge.

First remove the battery. You'll then need a 8mm, 12mm, and 14mm socket.

Remove the two 8mm nuts holding the starter to the bracket.

Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the bracket to the frame. Once their out, you'll have to clear the studs on the starter and pull the bracket out.

Remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the starter to the block(look at replacement starter for position).

Once these two bolts are out, undo the electrical connection (two wires) and the starter will come right out.

Reverse the process for installation.

It took me about 45 minutes to complete.

You may be out of luck with this check. I have a 93 with a non-turbo 1.6 and due to a non-start senario I knew the ign. module was the culprit. Being a master Ford/GM tech. and former automotive parts sales man at a local NAPA store, I took the unit out and took to every parts store around as well as a ford dealer. No one has a way to check this module to see if it is bad. Being that the car was made in Australia the local Ford dealers never botherd catering to soulving any of it's primary problems. If you suspect the module is the problem due to a no-start...the module is not cheap and trial and error may be the only course of action...good luck.

my son had the same problem & he could not find a module we replaced the whole distributor & it started but the dist. cost him over 300 dollars.

Chrysler's in general have a bad reputation when it comes to starter replacement, and in some cases one must disassemble a good amount of the car just to reach the plagued part (You do not have to remove anything from the car to reach the starter, it is located (not *) on all Chrysler leBarons on the cars front, but you have to lift the car up. Then there is 1 wire to be unpluged and another to be unscrewed to remove the electrical connecton. Then you must remove 4 bolts and the starter can be pulled away from the driver's side - pls. calculate 10 mins. for removing and another 10 mins. to mount the new starter, kinda easy work to be done). Fortunately the Chrysler LeBaron has most of it's belts to the left instead of in the front. Most of the time the starter is on the opposite side of the belts, in this case you will find the starter to the right of the engine block.

The LeBaron has a K body, so jack-up the car at the nose. Make very sure you engage your emergency break system and use some sort of stopper on both wheels for safety. Also make very sure you are making repairs to the car on a flat surface. That last thing you want is to be killed during as simple procedure as changing a starter.

Remove the power terminal from the battery post to prevent any electrical shortage.

Follow the red power lead from the battery to the starter located in the middle of the vehicle just to the left of the oil filter. There is 3 9/16" hex bolts that hold the starter to the engine, remove the bolts in a standard counter clockwise motion to

Mark the location of the spline shaft on the flange of the starter so when you put the new one in it goes on the same way.

Remove the 1/2" bolt that holds on the red power 16 gauge wire, clean and wire brush the wire terminal ends for good clean connection.

Follow this same procedure for re-installation of the new starter.

-> * on the 4 cyl. engines the starter is BEHIND the engine, between turbo and transaxles and you have to remove the engine mounts in front and at the back of the engine, move the engine towards the front and then you can try to remove the screws and the electric connections. this uses about 1-2 hrs. of work and it is much more difficult than at the V6 engines

->> It ist NOT a K-Body, it is a J-Body (V6 3,0 Liters are all J-Bodies).

You just lift the car on the front, then you will see the starter just at the front end of the engine, remove the 4 screws, remove the 2 cables (one is fixed with a screw) and then pull the starter to the passenger side. The new starter is to stick in in the opposite direction, screw on the 4 screws and fix the wires (one with a screw fixed, too).

Totally you will not use more than 15 mins on the V6 engines to replace the starter.

I totally agree about the 2.2 and 2.5 Litres, on them, it is crappy to remove the starter....

You do not need to fool with the steering wheel or air bag...just unhook the battery for 15 minutes before you work on it anyway. You need to take the three screws out of the plastic shroud around the switch and turn siganl assembly. Then take out the three torx screws (special ones with the post in the center...anti tamper) out of the switch. Unhook the two electrical connections and it will come out easily.

if u are facing your truck it will be on the left side of the engine!! u can take the bottom bolt off from the bottom but the top bolt well your gunna have to take it off from the top your gunna have to open your hood and slide your hand down to the starter! good luck...

You can change it from the top (unlike a chevy). You first have to remove the air cleaner cover. Then the whole air delivery system (the black plastic parts). To do this you loosen the worm clamp which holds the air system to the intake manifold, pull it off the manifold, and take the little hose off (in that area) also. Then you have to remove a bolt behind the air cleaner box. The air box is held down in the front by a plastic plug. You may really have to tug on that front connection to get it off. Once you pull that mess out, you can see the starter to remove it. Make sure that you disconnect the + terminal from the battery before disconnecting the starter wiring. The connector on the bottom left of the starter can be a buggar to pull off, too -- just wiggle & groan a little. You should be able to figure it out, now that you can see the bolts which hold it on.

It's on the bottom of the engine, where the engine joins the transaxle. If memory serves correctly, simply remove the wires and the three bolts holding the starter in place and reverse that order to replace it. It's also important to note, that when doing any work with electrical parts on a car, always disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid accidental grounding.

I need to replace the ignition switch on a 1998 KIA Sportage . Can this be done with a universal ignition switch ? There are 6 sets of wires going into the KIA switch. The universal switches come with 3 or 4 posts.

this locking mechanism is built into all cars, on this model you cant disable that feature. if you take the steering wheel and turn it so its not pushing against the lock pin in the key switch, then turn the key, it should turn easily. If you park your Camry with the front wheels pointed straight ahead, you will avoid this problem, as there will be no presure against the locking pin. If you do find the ignition locked, follow instructions in previous answer, but also be sure to firmly depress the brake pedal as you gently turn the steering wheel back and forth while at the same time trying to turn ignition key. Do NOT try to force the key, when you find the right spot for the steering wheel, the key will turn easily. p.s. if auto transmission, be sure its in PARK.

Hey Carolyn==It isn't real hard but you need direction. Go to Auto zone or another parts store and get a manual on your car for about $18 and it should have pictures and everything. Good luck Joe

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get a volt meter. turn it on. put one end on the +. the other end on the -. if you get a number greater than 12 with the car running then your golden.

You can't fix this issue by yourself. You must need to call a professional locksmith company that provides automotive locksmith services. I recently call Reliable Locksmith Company they provide locksmith services in Rochester and nearby areas. when I call them just wow they ensure me they come within 20 minutes finally they come and fix my car lock problem.