Toyota 4Runner

This is not easy unless you have seen it done and know what to do when. TAke it to the trim shop.

on the brake pedal bracket

Electronic Control System

Remove the cartpet moldings by the second row seats. You will have to remove the covers off the seat belt holders behind the seats, remove the rear roof console above the back window. The entire section is snapped into place where the speakers are. Start by putting your hand behind the panel near the second row seating and working your way to the rear of the vehicle. Kind of a pain but was easy as well. The whole panel will come off. Repeat for other side. Unless modifications are done you will only get 6" round speakers in rear. 6x9 speakers will not work unless modified.

Would likely be caused by a lack of fuel, lack of air, or lack of spark.

You can't unless you wan to replace the windhield. The antenna is built into the windshield.

Idle is computer controlled by the pcm (computer)-not adjustable.

Check your local auto parts stores to see if they have "loaner" scanners for OBD I systems. I have an Actron CP9150 that is just "super" that I use for all our vehicles except the 1979 El Camino.

What about it? Has four total.

Not sure what you are talking about. If you are referring to a part in the engine then the piston does not have a return spring. If you are referring to the piston, not quit the right term, in the brake area then in the wheels the there is a spring and in the actuator there is a spring. No other item I have ever heard of as a piston return spring. Can you elaborate?

sorry but no,the 22r version of the 4runner will work though

On my 2003 4Runner and my 2008 Tundra it's directly behind the glove box. Remove the glove box and you will see a long narrow door. The filter is behind it. Instructions came with my new cabin filter when I bought it from a auto store. ($28)

Yours may be in the same place.

yes it does

58 lbs

You usually add fluid at the same place you check it. If there is no place to check the fluid level, then it is a sealed system and adding fluid is more difficult. To add fluid, you must crawl underneath the car and examine the bottom of the transmission. There will be a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan and a fill plug on the side of the transmission body towards the rear (about halfway up the side of the transmission housing). Remove the side fill plug and pump new ATF in until it runs out the hole. Replace the plug and you are done. Some transmissions require the fluid to be be normal operating temperature to accurately check the fluid level, and still others require the car to be running in Park when checking the fluid level, so consult with the owner's manual to be sure. Also, not all ATF are alike, and some types can actually ruin your transmission. Again, consult the owner's manual to make sure you are using the correct fluid.

Most likely it will not. Because different engines use different amount of air to run. You might want to check the sensor number against eBay and see if people sale the same sensor for both models.

pull out the little black clip on the front and lift the handle off.

On my 92 the pump was on the top of the tank. I therefore had to remove the gas tank to get to it. Unhook the battery. Then disconnect the hoses you can get to. Place jacks under the tank and let them put pressure on the tank. Then remove the straps holding the tank up. Begin lowering the tank and then unhook any hoses you didn't do earlier. Once on the ground you can slide it out and then replace the pump. Empty the tank prior to installing to make it easier. Just be careful. When doing anything with gas you want to ensure it wont ignite by any flame. it might be helpful to also raise the car if necessary.

This is a pretty good guide with pictures. http://www.vstar1100.com/vs1100valves.pdf

tungsten

Most manuals carry the wiring diagram. Check local library's. If you don't want o buy one. If you are buying check the book before you buy it. Take it to the counter and ask the salesman to check it before you buy it so it doesn't need to be returned. They are usually very accommodating for this if you ask.

Normally as you would drive safely anyway. On a very steep grade kick it out of Overdrive The 4Runner has a button on the gear shift. Other vehicles w/o that feature you may have to drop a gear with shifter, especially a 4 or 5 speed auto, and allow the engine to run at about 3000 rpm, so as to not 'lug' it, it will consume a bit more gas but is easier on transmission and engine. Don't forget to put it back in O/D or "D" when you crest a grade..unless the other side is equally or steeper (more steep?) downhill, and allow the engine to control your speed instead of riding brakes. If you are talking about off-roading, climbing a very steep hill slowly, put it in Low or "1"

You go to a mechanic and ask him or her to do it

Sounds like my brother. But us backyard mechanics have a better idea. Block the vehicle rear wheels up if you can but if not then block the wheels and put on the brakes. Safety first when under a vehicle. Once under there will be the drive shaft running from the transmission to the rear differential.

There will be 4 nut and bots on each end. Remove the rear one first or the front. Doesnt matter. Then remove the other. Whole thing will come Dow in your hands.

Once the shaft is disconnected you no longer can rely on the parking brake to hold the vehicle, so ensure you do those safety things first.

Jonathon

I have owened and bled brakes on vehicles from a 58 Chevy pickup to a 92 Toyota 4 runner. They are all the same. So unless Toyota did something I am not aware of on their 2002, this should work there also.

Remove the tire on the side you are going to bleed. Support the vehicle good as you will need someone in it. On the brake mechanism you will find a small #10 fitting with a rubber cap on it. If cap is gone then it will just have a hole in the fitting.

Carefully brake the fitting loose, but don't unscrew yet. Put a hose over the fitting or a collection pan under the wheel, to collect spilled fluid. I like a painters roller pan because its long and the fluid tends to spray out under pressure.

Put someone in the car and have them pump the brakes 3 times. Then hold pressure on the brake until you tell them to release. With them holding pressure turn the fitting open about a half a turn and watch the fluid come out. It should be clear and clean like new fluid. This is where a new clear hose comes in handy because you can see the fluid easily.

Now tighten the fitting and then have them release their foot and repeat the process. If they release before you tighten the fitting then you just pulled more air in the system and made your job longer. You want a clear fluid coming out and you want a good solid quick stream of fluid. Too slow and the air might not come out of the brake reservoir or lines.

Last. If you are cleaning out lines and replacing old fluid then allow the reservoir in the engine compartment to go completely empty. then pour a small amount of new fluid in and empty again. Then fill with new fluid and bleed out the lines, all of them , even the rear. Its a long process but cleans out things nicely. Then watch the fill reservoir closely and don't let it go dry during the bleed process. If you do you get to start over.