Water Pumps

Not that I'm aware of. If you have a v-belt type pulley on the water pump, it runs CW. If you have a flat face pulley on the water pump, it runs CCW.

Your best bet would be to go to an auto parts store that sell Haynes Manuals. They are not very expensive. It will help you in many other matters.

On the front (passenger side) of the engine.

Hey Le==Some of these cars have to have the engine supports removed to get to the water pump. I suggest getting a manual on your car from a parts store. It will have pictures and everything. GoodluckJoe

i recently did this repair for a friend. It was excruciating. it was all day.

There are two pulleys running in this engine, and the water pump runs on the second pully behind a case. so you have to take almost everything off to get at it. Then, the water pump is actually the belt tensioner for that pulley system. it is excentric (sp?) so when you turn it in place, it tightens the belt. then you secure it back with three bolts. The belt system in question connects the drive shaft with the cam shaft, So you do have to be Very Careful with the belt/ pulley alignment.i marked the pulleys very very carefully so i could get everything lined up again.

This was a challenging repair. The one thing i did was had my GM Dealer parts person print the screen showing the breakdown of all the parts in that location so i had a reference point. Good luck

Not a lot of fun. You might as well change the timing belt at the same time. Drain all the coolant. Jack up the car on the front passenger side. Remove the passenger side wheel. Put a jack under the oil pan. Detach the engine mounts on the passenger side of the car. Remove all external belts. Remove the upper timing belt cover bolts Lower the engine using the jack. Remove the water pump pulley. (3 bolts) Remove the upper timing belt cover. Disconnect the coolant line running across the front of the engine from the water pump. (2 bolts on a flange) Pull the timing belt. Pull the water pump. Installation is just reversed.

# Drain Cooling System. Refer to procedure in this section. # Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to procedure in this section. # Remove right front lower fender shield. # Remove water pump pulley bolts and remove pulley. # Remove water pump mounting screws. Remove water pump. # Remove and discard O-ring seal. # Clean O-ring groove and O-ring surfaces on pump and chain case cover. Take care not to scratch or gouge sealing surface # Reverse steps to install.

Edit- The 1996 Town and Country does not have a removable pump pulley. It is press fit on and does not require removal of any pulley bolts prior to removing the the pump mounting bolts.

The only way the answer below could be more wrong is if he told you that you needed rocks to set the timing and to remove the bolts with a cutting torch. I'm not sure where he got his information, but I had to leave this answer up so that everyone else that knows anything about a ZX2 can get a good laugh. Anyway, I put a link in the 'related links' section that shows exactly how to set the timing on the ZX2. The ZX2 does not have a timing belt driven water pump and is not a 'V-tech' engine as he stated. It is a serpentine driven water pump and is a 'Zetec' engine.

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An Escort water pump is located under the timing cover and is driven by the timing belt. Jack up the right front corner of the vehicle, remove the following: RF wheel, front motor mount, serpentine belt, belt tensioner crankshaft pulley, timing cover, and timing belt, to gain access to and replace the water pump. It is recommennded that you install a new timing belt when you replace the water pump.

2001 ZX2 is equipped with AA 2.0L DOHC V-Tech engine. The water pump is on the front (rt side of car) of the engine block, visible with the hood up. NAPA autoparts replacement instructions are to loosen the belt drive pulley from the pump BEFORE removing the serpentine belt. Once the four bolts are loosde, take the belt off (good time to replace?) remove bolts and old water pump (four more bolts)- it will be tight, but it comes out- clean gasaket area and install new gaaket and pump in reverse order. That includes putting the pulley on and hand tightening the bolts, put on the belt, finish tightening the bolts to the pulley. Don't forget the antifreeze..

remove the airbox and access the serp belt tension bolts. loosen the serp belt completely, draw a diagram on how it goes on though. then drain the radiator fluid by turning the petcock open on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. use a bucket. disconnect water pump hose (lower radiator hose) loosen bolts and remove the water pump, lower radiator hose connects to it.

clean the gasket off the engine block real well.

take the pulley off the old pump and use it on the new one and use loctite on the screws so it don't come off.

on the new gasket apply lightly a coating of gasket sealer or rtv and place it on the engine, line up the holes. line up the new pump and use fingers and thread the screws in making sure you don't cross the threads.

snug down bolts gently.

- reattach the hoses- reattach the serp belt- snug it down (airbox side)- make sure draincock is closed- refill fluids- check for leaks

all is done. go driving!

i once drove from ensenada baja to my home in redwood city on a bad water pump. it was squealing really loud but as Cherokees go, the 4.0 motors are bulletproof. i just swapped out pumps theday after and it was like new again. that was about 1200 miles RT on a bad pump!

take it to the dealership

block right rear wheel, remove front right wheel, Remove mud shield from right wheel area (2 bolts 2 plastic fasteners), Remove timing belt (see other instructions as this is complex and requires some jacking of the engine removal of top motor mount, covers, alternator, covers, Main Crank pulley, and tensioner pulleys. Care muct be taken to do it right and since you are in there you might as well install a new timing belt, tensioner and guide bearings. Also inspect camshaft seals. (If you don't understand this you probably shouldn't be doing the job.

remove water pump (4 or 5 bolts keeping track of the length of each. Remove old o-ring behind pump, You can then either install a complete pump or take the old pump to the bench, disassemble and install a new impeller/bearing half of the pump. Install new o-ring, pump, timing belt and reinstall the crankshaft sensor being careful to keep the wires in the same place they wer when you took the sensor off, following instructions (usually included with a gates or AC delco belt, to the letter, Install the covers, alternator, motor mount, pulleys, belts mud shield and wheel. The whole job can be done in 2 hours but plan on at least 5 if you have never done it. Also you will need all the torque specs for each bolt and a good torque wrench. The crankshaft pulley bolt torques at 132 ft-lbs Motor mounts at 80 ft lbs and the 14mm bolts around 30ft lbs, 12 mm bolts 18 ft lbs and 10mm at 9 ft lbs.

It is inside the front, driven by the timing belt.

Haynes Repair Manual covering 1995-2001 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo, and Impala (FWD) page 3-5 states....WATER PUMP REMOVAL... 1. Disconnect negative battery cable (CAUTION: on models with Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before disconnecting the battery). 2. Drain the antifreeze. 3. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts by using belt tension and a prybar to hold it still. 4. Remove the serpentine belt. On 3.1 L/3.4 L OHV engines, remove the small belt guard just above the water pump. 5. Remove the bolts/nuts and remove the water pump from the engine. WATER PUMP INSTALLATION... 1. Clean bolts, and other areas very well. 2. Make sure the old pump and the new pump are exactly the same (Note how the old one is located on the engine). 3.Clean the engine and water pump attaching surface with lacquer thinner or acetone. 4. Carefully attach the pump and gasket to the engine and tighten the bolts/nuts finger tight. 5. Carefully tighten the bolts/nuts to correct torque specs. 6. Reinstall other things you had to remove for access. 7. Refill the radiator. 8. Run the engine and check for leaks. I just did this and would add just a couple of minor things. You may well need more than belt tension and a pry bar to hold the pulley in place to remove the bolts. That didn't work for me. The pulley spun anyway. I used a box end wrench on one of the other bolts to hold the pulley in place while I loosened the remaining bolts. That worked until I got to the last one of course. Then I had some longer bolts with the same threading that I screwed in and held a pry bar against those to get the last one. I found that the pump would only go on one way. Unfortunately mine fell out before I was ready so I didn't know which way it had gone. But if you don't have it just right all the holes will not line up. Four of the five might but they that last one won't until you have it right. This was actually one of the easier repairs I've done. I'm not a very experienced mechanic and was freaked at first when I thought I'd have to take off the whole thing. I was relieved to find out you don't have to remove the housing. Just get the pulley off, remove five bolts and that's it.

left.....counterclock wise

We need to know which engine you have before a complete answer can be given.

there is no 2.3 anything but

here is my answer.

http://www.kick-fix.com/t-belt/tbelt.html

8v or 16valves. that is the only questions up to 1998

check the hoses.. check for cracked/blown head gasket - you might see staining on the engine block check for water in the rocker box - oil will look like mayo - side effect of a blown gasket check for a leaking freeze plug

it is a long procedure,but basically every thing has to come off front of engine,yes including timing belt.

Typically when it is leaking.

You must remove the serpentine belt first. A tensioner tool makes that easiest. Drain the coolant out, if it is not old it can be used again. Pull the pulley off the pump, use a screwdriver between the bolts to keep the pulley from moving. Loosen all of them first. then Take off the pulley. Remove the bolts, I think there are six not evenly divided out. Only the front part of the pump gets changed and the housing stays on the engine. Clean all surfaces. Use some gasket sealer (blue Form-a-Gasket) in the depression in the pump going around the outside of the pump. evenly tighten the bolts on the new pump. Re-assemble, add coolant, put back on serpentine belt. Done.

Depends on which engine you have, but on either engine it should not take more than 4 hours for someone familar with the proceedure.

because the upstairs toilet drain was clogged up.

Disconnect the battery Drain the cooling system Remove the fan and clutch assembly from the water pump. You will need to get a fan clutch holding tool and a Fan Clutch Nut Wrench. Ford T84T-6312-C - Fan Clutch Holding Tool - Global Tool# 303-239 - OTC tool# 7204E1 Ford T84T-6312-D - Fan Clutch Nut Wrench - Global Tool# 303-240 - OTC Tool# 7204E2 After loosening the fan and clutch assembly from the water pump using the two tools listed above position the fan and clutch asembly in the fan shroud. THEN remove the fan shroud (which has the fan/clutch assembly in it) Loosen the water pump pully bolts Remove the drive belt by rotating the tensioner away from the belt by using pully retaining bolts only. (Do not pry on belt tensioner!) Remove the water pump pulley Disconnect the lower radiator hose, heater hose andwater pump bypass hose at the water pump. Unfasten the bolts that attach the pump to the cylinder front cover. Remove the pump and gasket.

First you will need to draw a digram of the belt patter if you car dosent have one on the front by the hood latch. Now you need an 18 mm socket. This is used to loosen the belt tensioner that is spring loaded, and is between the power stering pump and the alt. . Pull up on the belt tensioner and slip the belt off at the altanator or wherever it will come off the easiest. Then remove the alt. It only has 2 bolts. Then you need to remove the pully off the water pump (you will need it for the new one, so keep up with it) to be able remove all the bolts from the water pump. The pully has 4 small bolts. And the water pump has 3 large bolts, and i belive 4 or 5 small bolts. There are no hoses conected to the pump so that makes it a little easier. After you remove the old pump you will need to clean the block and remove all the old gaskest completly. Then with the new pump comes a gasket, make sure you put a thin layer of gasket glue on both sides of the gasket. then bolt it back on the the block. Put the old pully on that you saved from the old pump. Bolt the alt back on then put the belt back on (new one if needed) just like you took it off.