Car Starting Problems

The noise is difficult to diagnose over a forum, but if the battery is charged correctly, and is hissing as you put it, the starter motor may not be working correctly, get a second opinion from a garage

hello this cars are very sensitive for poor battery power ,pump should stop within 3-4 sec if not than maybe wires

Try replacing the ignition module. It is located in the distributor. This is what gives the PCM the reference to turn on the fuel pump, fire spark, etc.

Underneath steering wheel check relay 100&103

Ignition or ignition switch could be bad or the selanoid could have went out

Could be a bad starter drive or a broken tooth on flywheel/converter

Try turning motor manually (make sure it is in neutral if std.) by using a large socket on the crankshaft. If starter works this way probably a bad tooth if not, probably a bad starter drive

You may have pressure on the steering wheel locking pin. Try moving the steering wheel one way or the other while trying to turn the ignition key.

First check for loose mounting bolts at starter. If everything is OK, then remove starter and check for broken teeth on starter pinion gear and flywheel.

the car will not fire unless it will turn over , so the question makes no since.

No, a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker does not have chip key.

you have a lack of fuel or fuel pressure troubler

Yes, If you don't have spark, or if the timing is very off, it won't start. You can get a cheap spark plug tester at any auto store that would plug into the spark plug wire and would show the spark fire.

IAT air intake sensor is a thermistor ( a resistor that varies the value of it's resistance in accordance with temperature changes ) the change in the resistance values will directly effect the voltage signal from the sensor to the PCM/ECM. As the sensor temperature increases, the resistance values will decrease. As the sensor temperature decreases the resistance values will increase.

When the engine is cold, check for serpentine belt condition and tension with a flashlight and your hand by pushing on the belt at about the halfway mark between pulleys. There should be 1/2 inch or less play in the belt. Also check for cracking along the inside surface ribs of all belts. There should be 3 total belts if you have air conditioning. Any cracking along the belt ribs and the belts should be replaced and properly tensioned. If the belts look ok so far, have a helper start the vehicle while you watch the pulleys with a flashlight. Any signs of a pulley that is not rotating with the engine is a sign of the component attached to the pulley begining to seize. Whether this is a power-steering pump, A/C compressor or other pulley driven item, it should be inspected or possibly replaced by a qualified individual.

I've had the same problem with my Geo Storm recently. The car will start and run fine until it gets warmed up then the check engine light will come on and the car will hesitate, the tach will jump wildly and when you pull over, it will stall. When you try to start the car, it will fire intermittently and not start. After sitting for 30 minutes, it will start perfectly fine and run until it gets warmed up again. The computer keeps sending a code 42 (Ignition control module). I've replaced this and still no results. Also replaced the ECM because these models have had some trouble with them. Still no results...same thing. Last step was the ignition coil. So far it seems to be working ok and no problems. One of these components is bad. I recommend going with the coil first since its only about $20, then the ignition control module...about $45 then the computer which runs about $120 for a remanufactured one. I suspect the ignition coil is overheating and breaking down. Also, move the coil farther away from the radiatior hose to eliminate any excess heat caused by the hot coolant. If my car acts up again its going to the junk yard after these fixes. The car is just not worth the headaches. Other: Check the Idle air control valve. I've Got a 90 Lincoln Town car that was acting this way. I removed the IAC, cleaned it with brake cleaner and now the car runs much, much better. I do not know if the geo has this, or where it is, but it should. (I'm trying to figure out why my sister's geo won't start right now.)

More than likely the coil is bad. A spark occurs when the power to the coil turns OFF. Ignition points or the ICM breaks the voltage when it's time to fire a spark. Just having voltage to the coil isn't enough.

Most commonly, it's the starter or the starter was wired wrong when it was installed. More rarely, it can also be the keyswitch or even a bad gear on the flex-plate.

Check fuel pump,filter,relay switch,fuses,etc. or spark plugs,wires and distributor cap.

throttle body or idle air control value

Ensure fuses are good. Is there injector pulse, fuel pressure, and spark? Has work been done recently? Is there proper valve and ignition timing?

Check the sensors, mine did the same thing and it was the sensors

sometimes u need to put some gas in the intake ,anoher thing; if u run out of gas alot or run on E alot u will malfunction ur fuel pump

yes, it is a neutral safety switch. When this switch has an open circut, it will not let the car start. The switch should be located under the dash on the top to the cluch pedal.

the noise you hear when stepping on the brake is a solenoid activating the lockout on the transmission. it stops you from putting the car in gear unless you step on the brake.