Check Engine Light

Suggest you have it checked for trouble codes. The engine computer and airbag system should both have codes.

Because there is a fault in, or reported, by the monitoring system (computer) in the car and it needs to be serviced to find and or repair the problem.

cycle the key 3 times to read the codes.. it should shut the light off.. but if you still have a problem it will still come back on. if that doesnt work go to autozone or discount auto parts.. they have a obd tool that can read and clear diagnostic codes.. but if you have a problem it might not be a good idea to ignore the light.

I don't know if this helps, but my check light just came on, but was a little hesitant, as if there was a bad connection. I disconnected the battery (to reset the computer), sprayed silicon oil on the various connectors leading to the emission senesors, and checked that the fuel tank was holding a mild vacuum (the cap hisses a bit when lossened). That fixed the problem.

However, time will tell if it fixed it for good (maybe the computer waits a set time before reporting a problem). But the slight flickering of the check light makes me think the bad connection idea might have merit, and silicon oil is generally very good in this respect.

catalytic convertor is bad or oxygen sensors are going bad

also check the distributer for excess freeplay in the shaft and or metal shavings in the cap area. there is a crankangle sensor switch in there on the 88-91 and its bad u must replace the distributer. the code for this is in your ecu it will either blink out with a little led light (on the unit itself though a sight glass) or with the check engine light (depends on the year). a repair manual from advanced auto parts is a valueble tool. get one. that's how i fixed my 91 civic lx.

you need to check your engine of your care mmight stop working so go to a mechanic to see if he can tell you anything. sometimes it means nothing and you can just disconect wire of your battery for few moments.

Take it to AutoZone and ask them to read the code, this should help you look for the correct repair. This could be as simple as removing the gas cap and re-fastening. Could be misfiring engine, could also be bad gas. Try filling up with premium for one tank. Without knowing the error code it is just shooting in the dark.

Broken or rusted out exhaust system.

First, just try a heavier grade oil. If you're using a 5W15, switch to a 10W30 or even a 15W50. That should help you get some more miles out of the engine.

Try disconnecting the battery for about 10 mins.--If this doesn't work have vehicle scanned to determine problem or reset codes---most auto parts stores will do this free

Installing the Oil Pan Make sure the sealing surface of the pan's rim is flat and capable of providing a seal before reinstalling it. Check the flanges of a steel oil pan for warpage. Use a straightedge or lay the pan, flange side down, on a flat surface with a flashlight underneath it to spot uneven edges. Checking the flatness of an oil pan flange. Used with permission of Detroit Gasket - Copyright 1999. Carefully check the flange around bolt holes. Minor distortions can be corrected with a hammer and block of wood. If the flanges are too bent to be repaired in this manner, the pan should be replaced. Once it has been determined that the flanges are flat, install the oil pan with a new gasket. Tighten the screws evenly. Do not tighten any of the screws all of the way until all of the screws are started in their threads. Use an inch-pound torque wrench to torque the screws to specifications. Look this up in the service manual. Specifications usually range from 60 to 150 inch-pounds. This is not very much, but it compresses the gasket and allows it to work properly.

If your coolant is at the appropriate level in the radiator AND in the reservoir and you have no leaks in any hoses AND your thermostat is opening correctly then there is something wrong with the electrical fans system. It is not an air conditioning problem BUT you will have a hard time getting heat in the car if the coolant is low. The system has two fans. One Hi speed and one Low speed as evidenced by the two different size fans behind the radiator. I had this happen on an 85 Caddy where I had to replace the Fan Module...cost me $120 and it's right behind the left headlights. Can't remember the procedure I used to get it out because I think it involved moving the battery or taking other stuff out of the way. The reason I cant remember is because I havent owned the car in about two years and the problem happened about 5 years ago and now I own a 92 Caddy. MUCH different performance and ride than the 4.1 engine. Good luck!

by your left knee under the dash dave

this is likely the solenoid that controls the egr. follow the tiny hose attached to the egr back to a small electrical solenoid. that part is best bought at a junkyard if possible because it is expensive new.

If you have an Autozone nearby, they will read codes for free.

I have done it two ways on mine----1: disconnect battery cable for a few seconds then reconnect. 2: use a scan tool if u have one and clear codes.

Yes, I believe it will, Based on the NYS inspection site. The mechanic will advise you that the light is on. It is not included in the OBD II diagnostics which is sent to DMV. Check out the site and judge for yourself, or ask a mechanic you trust.

It will most likely fail until the computer has done all of its self diagnostics, that can take a week.

If the check engine light is blinking that means an engine cylinder misfire has been

detected

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

No

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

Yes.Of couse it does.

P0440 sets when the evaporative emission system large/medium leak monitor test fails. Normally meaning there is a leak in the system. This can happen from a loose or not sealing gas cap, solinoid valve not working or not sealing, or a brocken/cracked emission hose. Best bet is to do a visual inspection of the evaporative emission system and replace anything that is broken or unhooked. If you can find anything take it to a repair shop and have a evap system leak test performed. Most new OBDII car can be forced to run the monitor test with a handheld scan tool with the correct software installed.