Electric Windows

replace window regulator

I assume this is a manual crank window, not power windows. If the hand crank just spins around without raising the window all the way, the regulator inside the door is stripped. You'll need to remove the outer door panel to get to it, and a drill to drill out the rivets that hold the regulator in (and rivets or bolts to install the next one). Best to get a manual that covers that. Also, get a "new" one that works from a junkyard, and removing it will show you how to get the sucker out. Good luck.

:-) teeny

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The drivers side electric motor is the first one to wear out (the most used). A replacement motor can be bought for about $100. Take the door cover off and you will see 3 rivets holding the motor. Carefully drill these out, remove and replace the motor. I have replaced 3 of these -2 drivers, 1 passenger. On one I used 3 bolts/nuts to hold the motor in place.

Arnie

I believe the problem is the same with all of the Fords. My 2004 Explorer had the same problem with the windows not working. I found that the wire had worn out front he opening and closing of the driver's door and the wire had to be repaired or replaced that runs from under the hood to the front driver's door.

The switch comes as a cluster. If you REALLY KNOW what you are doing, this cluster can be taken apart and cleaned with non-conductive cleaner. I took this way out when I learned that the cluster cost was over $150 where the switch is on the arm rest there should be two torque screws holding the panel that the switch is in. Remove the two screws, take out the panel with the switch then gently spread the plastic clips from the panel away from the switch. Carefull not to break the plastic tabs. then disconnect the wiring harness from the switch and install the new switch. follow backwards to reinstall.

Another place you can check is the wires in between the door and front panel sometimes the wire will break from the opening and closeing the door. also check to see if you have power to the switch with a tester.

Its should be same thing

Behind where you use the handle to pull to open the door is a little cap. Use a screw driver to take it off and take out the screw you will find behind it. From there, start to take out the screws that hold the pannel on located at the bottom of the pannel, about 4 of them. You are now ready to just pull the pannel up. the pannel also has a hindge system on it so you can work on the inside stuff without having to take it all the way off the door.

The removal of the window motor from a 93 F150 is not difficult, but requires a few tools. Gather together the following; Phillips screwdriver, 5/16 nut driver, a drill with with a 1/2" bit, a T20 Torx bit (or a 1/4" nut driver), a long handled magnet(for retrieving screws), a work light (for seeing inside the door), and tape.

Remove the door panel by removing the Phillips screws along the bottom and sides of the panel (look carefully to get them all). In addition there is a screw in the hollow of the door handle, and a screw holding the electric window/lock module. With all the screws removed the panel can be removed by lifting out, up, and forward past the handle. At this time poke the window/lock module through the opening and remove the courtesy light from the panel so that it can be set aside.

Pull down the plastic water shield, or remove it altogether for convenience.

Tape the window to the door frame so it does not drop when the motor is removed.

With the Torx bit or 1/4" nut driver, remove the radio speaker. This is for convenience in seeing and manuvering in the door, and is easy to do. You can stick the speaker out of the way on the door by its magnet.

If the motor has been removed before, this next step, drilling two 1/2" holes, will not be necessary.

To remove the motor, three 5/16" screws must be taken out. The one on the left is visible and can be easily removed with the nut driver, but the other two are hidden behind the panel. This is where the 1/2" drill bit is required. Look carefully at the panel and you will see two small dimples located 120 degrees on a circle from the visible screw that you removed. Place your bit on the dimple and drill the holes(the metal is soft, so don't press too hard or the bit will get sucked in as you go through.

Using the 5/16" nut driver fit it through the hole and remove the screws. If you are careful and hold the motor you may be able to back the screws out without dropping them inside the door. This is where the long handled magnet comes in handy.

Ford no longer stocks the replacement plastic gear for the 93 F150. They want $120 and the old motor for a rebuilt motor. My local parts dealer gets $42 and the old unit.

Replacement is straight forward and much faster than removal.

Doing this is not difficult and will probably save more than $150 if you do it yourself. Good luck.

two units threw her out the window. she didnt fall.

well im pretty sure you have to take out the plastic including the stuff that goes around the switches and the gadges and the stereo and also you need to open the glove box (or that box in the center whatever its called) then take all the screws holding the door to it on

The best way to do it is to remove the whole center bezel (where the radio sits in) be very careful not to crack it. there are screws holding it in, you'll see them. If you have a radio installed, do what you have to do to get the bezel out. The vents on the top of the bezel are attached to it, so be carefull and work it out "SLOWLY". then remove the carpet panels, which are running from front to back on the side of the seats. there are 3 screws holding each one in. then remove the console bezel where the two window switches set into. you'll see the hex head nuts, two on each side (i believe) of the console bezel and two underneath where the radio bezel sat on. this should be enough to raise the console up and look underneeth the switches and you'll find them held in by two more hex head screws. reverse the installation. good luck!

Defective passenger power window switch. It is stuck in the down position. Raise the window and immediately disconnect the switch until you can replace it.

Defective passenger power window switch. It is stuck in the down position. Raise the window and immediately disconnect the switch until you can replace it.

Lock door with key .... unlock door with key then lock and hold key over for a few seconds

Most cars with power windows use a circuit breaker that resets automatically. These are in the range of 20-30 amp rating. More popular is the 30 amp variety. Costs usually about 5-10 dollars.

if you get one from a scrap yard for £10 to£15 you get the whole lot with slide rail . you take the door panel off there is three nuts to the motor and two screws to rail and one slide clip that holds the glass in place

I have the same problem. Drivers side master window switch is broken. I continue to use mine, but it doesn't always work. I think the answer is to buy a new switch. They are $300 + Canadian from the dealer....less from a scrap yard. The actual replacement is easy, carefully pry up the complete houing from the door ledge, disconect the wire hardness. Reverse to put the new one in place. I pulled mine out, the switch itself levers on a tiny thing piece of plastic, it's only a matter of time till they go. Best of luck.

I have repaired two of these by simply spraying contact cleaner on the slide switch under the driver window toggle switch. Use a small, flat bladed screwdriver to gently lift the plastic tab catches while prying the cover sideways. There is two sets of catches. Do the black one first then the gray. The window lock pushbutton will need to be pryed off as well. Be sure to realign all the toggle switches upon reassembly.

I have the same problem, same year of car too, I do have a manual window crank, they told me to unscrew the 9-10 screws and the outside panel comes off.

Gear box has failed or scissor arms on lift mechanism for window are broken. More than likely the key, or pin for the gear is broken.

You either have a bad circuit breaker (located in the driver's side fuse panel) or a short in the power supply to the switches.

The relay is under the dash in a relay box that is just right of the steering column. There is tape around it that needs to be removed and then the cover pops off. It's a bit ackward to get at. The window relay is the largesr relay in the box. Part numbers vary by model so pull it first to get the number. I replaced mine for $7 this week and now my windows work. Theye were intermittent before then and also cause the 4WD and 4WD Low lights to flash on and off at times. This seems to be a consistent hint of this relay. The Ford parts departrment was NOT going to confirm that this was the window relay but after I told him I would just replace it rather than paying $100 for thie diagnostic fee he said it controlled the windows plus a whole list of other items. If anybody has a full schematic of this relay box I would love a reference to it.

Power motors will give you a warning before they completely break down. This "warning" is what you are experiencing. Go to a local auto parts store, tell them the make/model/year, and buy the part. Then take it to an auto-glass company (your insurance agent should recommend one) and they may be able to install the motor. It's MUCH cheaper to buy the part first and then have it installed. This is what I did for a 1996 GMC Jimmy, and I saved a bunch of money.

you have to reset the computer.

It's the motor assembly that causes the door to go up and down.

the fender probably fills up with water. You need to make sure that the drain holes under the car are open. this shorts out the motors. then you need to access the motor and have it rebuilt or find a used one.

Take your time and try to lift a side in order to put it back on track. No luck? Than you may need to use a flat screw driver and look under the window for the wheel that is off track and carefully pry that wheel up and slide it back into place.