Electric Windows

there are 2 14-15 mm bolts on the back floor then the seat slides out towards the back seat and then unplug the power plug on the bottom

These relays (For factory installed power windows) Should be located with the power door lock relays, just under the dash on the passenger side of the vehicle, part way behind the kick panel. These relays will be mounted to a bracket.

maybe you can look in the fuse box located under the glovebox and replace the electrical fuse.

I have the exact same problem. Did you ever find out how to fix yours?

2000 Solara passenger power window. Are the fuses separate for the windows? Left works right does not with no power to the drivers switch for the right side.

I have a 1996 Monte Carlo and my driver power window had stopped working so I thought it was the window motor but I went to the junk yard and got several different master switches off of old Monte Carlos and found one that work and switch the old one with the new and it WORKED!!! =)

Insert key in door lock and turn. Wa-la, car is unlocked.

The motor that runs the window is probably in need of replacement. You can also check the fuse to make sure that that is working.

A Power window relay for a Honda Civic LX are located on the under side of the engine compartment fuse box. Located above the large square relay on the fuse box.

Depending on whats wrong, to change the glass you need to pop the inside door cap off to locate the the window that is underneath the panel. Then if it needs to be changed then its fairly simple on figuring out on how to remove it. Good Luck.

above driver side fuse box inside of car . There is two fuses and two relays.. one controls the front one controls the rear..

The window regulator is gear-driven. The arm that raises and lowers the window has a long curved rack, driven by a gear on the motor. Most likely, if you can hear the motor running, then the gear on the motor is broken, or the gears are stripped. I've had both problems. You'll need to pull the window regulator to disassemble and pull motor to find out for sure which one it is. Either way, it sounds like you'll be changing the motor.

Hi, The problem with your pass side window is the drivers side power window switch. I have had this same problem on my 1993 Aerostar.

you must pop out the interior panel on the door to get acsess to window, chances are the drive belt snapped,no big deal , about 20 dollars, go to libary and look in a chilton book, it will explain how to do it.

the library should have a shop manual for this vehicle, you can make copies of the right sections :)

Try lubing all moving parts then.....good luck using the motor

Yes, power windows were an option for the 79.

Somebody was dozy on the assembly line. They connected the loom incorrectly but it's an easy fix. You have to get into the centre console to access the area where the 4 door wires meet at the master control panel. Find the rear passenger door wire by taking turns disconnecting the other wires. Then find the front passenger door wire by the same method. Now pull the other window wires off and connect the wires to the specific switches one at a time until the right switch works the right window. It's all good!

Not really! Have you tried unhooking the negative battery cable? If it then works for a few minutes, it is a sensor inside the door! I am working on a bypass for this common problem! A toggle switch for the window RELAY.

Neither, probably be the switch.

if you hold the key in the lock position it will close the window also held in the open position it will open the window

Details of the fuses for the Pajero can be found here : http://www.pocuk.com/faq/fuses.htm The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club is the World's largest, most popular, free-to-join community for owners of the Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Raider, Challenger, EVO and Pinin ranges of Japanese (import) SUV 4x4 offroad vehicles. http://www.pocuk.com

I have found that a Chilton or Haynes Auto repair manual for the year and make of the vehicle (available at your local library)are an excellent source of information. They are quite informative on most parts replacement and how to troubleshoot.

Use a circuit tester to test the switches. You can test both switches from the right side door. Gently pry the plate holding the switch up and out of the door with a flat blade or screwdriver. There are several wires coming out of the switch. Five large gauge wires control the motor. The center wire is hot. Two of the other wires come from the left hand switch and the remaining two go to the motor. Find a good ground. (I used one from the door lock switch). Test each of the five wires. One wire is hot when pressing the UP button on either right or left door (Check both sides). One wire will show hot when pressing DOWN button on either door. These are the wires that go to the motor. If you have power here you will have to trace those wires to the motor.

Remove the door panel: Two screws inset in door handle. One screw under plastic cover on top front of door panel. Two screws on bottom of door panel. Remove cover around door latch handle. Pull the panel straight up.

For me: power was going to the motor. When i tapped on motor it started working!! Probably temporary fix.

Now to find out how to remove motor!!

If you can hear the motor run and it's trying to retract but you hear clicking noises then the motor is slipping on the plastic teeth of the antenna mast. It's actually designed to slip as that's the way it adjusts when a mast is installed. It may be that the mast itself is gunked up with dirt and oil or bent such that it encounters resistance as it's retracting. Order a new mast online, I got mine for $38 but many sites have it for $50. The mast will come with a replacement chrome nut, O ring and plastic base. I didn't bother with those since my old one was a gold accent nut and I didn't find the nut, o ring and base in the box till after I replaced the antenna. You unscrew the nut at the base of the antenna where it comes out of the car by using a bent nose snap ring plier, bought mine for $11 at Autozone, remove the nut. Have an assistant turn on the radio so that the antenna extends, grab it and pull it out. Stuff the plastic teeth end into the hole with the teeth facing the rear of the car, have your assistant turn off the radio and move the plastic end around until it catches and guide the antenna in. It won't go all the way down because it took some time to get the teeth caught on the motor, screw on the nut. Turn on the radio again to extend the antenna, since it didn't pull in all the way, it will try to push the antenna out more than it will go so you'll hear the motor slip on the end of the plastic teeth. Turn the radio off again and it should go all the way in. It's incredibly easy to replace the antenna mast. When I did it, I didn't believe it was that easy so I took it back out and did it again. I don't think oiling the mast helps, a lot of mechanics have told me to just oil the mast, the oil probably drips onto the plastic teeth making it easier to slip and holds on to the dust so the mast gets gunked up faster. The next time it starts to mess up on me, I'm just going to replace the mast. I'm thinking of trying the dry wax that bicycles use on their chains to lubricate the mast as it won't drip and it won't hold on to the dirt.