Locks and Latches

Take it to a body shop as they have to open then on wrecks.

On my 1988 Cutlass Supreme the cable broke at the release point in the car. I was unable to see anything from the outside so in the passenger compartment I took the release handle apart and used a set up pliers to pull the cable and release the hood. There should be just on bolt holding the release in place, it may be covered by the carpet. If it can't be done from the inside you can also reach up from under the front bumper and find the cable where it attaches to the latch. Just pull the cable and the hood should release.

Okay, I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I have had the same problem. As far as the auto door locks go, check your fuses. The auto door locks are on the same fuse as the lighter and horn. I went to use my lighter one day, and it blew the fuse. My door locks, horn, and lighter would not work. I didn't know this until after I replaced the fuse several times (and finally hearing a popping sound when I went to use the lighter).

As far as the daytime running lights go, I really have no advice. There are a few others who have asked the same question here... Just browse through the questions and you should find the answer.

The speedometer may be a bit tricky. Either the gage itself is bad, or you may have problems behind the dash... Again, others have asked a similar question, so just browse through the questions and you should find an answer.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

I just got done installing a hood cable for a 98' Blazer. I must say it is a pain however it is doable. I am a programmer not a mechanic and I pulled it off :P

Note: If you cant open the hood just drive around your neighborhood and keep pulling the latch and it should eventually pop open. If your hood cable isn't severed.

What You Need:

- Replacement Hood Cable (About $15-$20 online)

- Needle Nose Pliers

- Ratchet set

- Wire Cutters

- Wire Coat Hanger

- Flash Light

- Nice to have another person to test with however that will be the only time you need a 2nd person.

Approx: 1-2 Hours (Took me 3 without a guide)

Under the hood (Removing the Cable):

1) Undo the hood cable from the hood latch. Just bend open the bracket with needle nose pliers and slide out.

2) Pop the rubber cable holder out of its spot. You can do this with a screw driver.

3) To the right above the drivers side headlight there are 2 little plastic snaps holding the cable. Just use a screw driver to pop them open.

4) Pull the cable towards the drivers side headlight until it pops out (around the brackets).

5) Cut the cable with wire cutters. (This gets rid of the hassle of it catching on crap when removing the rest of it. I found this out after getting the end stuck. )

Inside the car: (Removing the Cable)

1) On the drivers side remove your floor mat(s) so its just carpet.

2) Take a screw driver and pop the trim up at base of the doorway where the 2 pieces of plastic connect. (You only need to pop it up enough to remove the plastic housing around the hood release and e-brake.)

3) With your hands (Or with screwdriver if needed) pop the plastic housing off around the hood release and e-brake. Don't worry it shouldn't break even if it feels like it will. Start at the bottom closest to the trim you just popped up and work your way to the back behind the release lever. Yank on the plastic it should come off. (As said earlier it will feel like it will break but it wont.)

4) Peal back the carpet in the corner behind the hood release.

5) Undo the 2 screws on the hood release lever.

6) The plastic kick board (Should be black directly above the hood release) will have 4 screws. 1 on the left, 1 on the left - center, 1 on the right, and 1 on the right by the accelerator. Undo them and push it off to the right a bit.

7) Now that you have access to all the screws holding the e-brake in. Remove the 2 screws and nut. (1 in the front, 1 in the back behind the cable, and the nut is at the very top in a tight spot. The nut is a royal pain if you have big hands! Keep in mind its a nut NOT the bolt directly above it. Takes a bit of feeling around until you get it. Its at the top closer to the front. )

8) Pull the e-brake off of the bolt that is holding it up (Pull towards the pedals and down once its off. Its the bolt you removed the nut off of) and push it off to the right.

9) Follow the cable with your hand until you reach a rubber stopper. (There will be some material with a slit that you have to go behind about a inch up until you find it. Remember this location and that there is indeed a rubber stopper. I didn't know about the stopper and looked for 5 min before I realized it was there.

10) You now have full access to the hood release cable so pull it until the cut end is out. (If you have troubles you may need to look under the hood and find what its getting stuck on. Shouldn't be a issue if you cut the end off.)

11) Remove the rubber stopper you found at step 9.

Installing the new cable (Mostly under the hood):

1) (Inside)Push the end of the cable with the spring through the hole you found when removing the old cable. Just push back the rubber stopper attached to the cable until its somewhere near the handle. Only push like 4 inches in or so because it will run into something.

2) Under the hood near the drivers side wiper look down and your cable should be viewable to the left of the black thing.

3) Push the cable back and behind the black thing towards the drivers side fender then pull the cable slack threw.

4) Tuck the cable in along side the drivers side fender down with the other wires and continue doing so until you are past the wiper fluid.

5) Push the cable through the the holes so that its sticking out on top of the headlight. (As in under not over the top)

6) Direct the cable behind the grille (Same path as the black plastic cable holders you unclipped when removing the cable).

7) Take a wire coat hanger and bend a little hook at 1 end and stick it through the top hole (To the right of the bigger hole by the hood latch) and hook the springy part of the cable and slowly work it through the hole.

8) Push the hard plastic stopper ( the part right before the metal cable ) into the grove part of the latch.

9) If you have the bracket bent open already skip to step 10. If not then take needle nose pliers and bend open the bracket on the latch so that you can fit the cable in.

10) Pull back the spring and hold the cable (In front of the spring) with needle nose pliers and push the cable into place on the bracket.

11) Bend the bracket back into place.

12) Push the cable into the plastic brackets and snap them closed. As you do this start tucking the cable in.

13) If you still have excess cable then push the cable back towards the drivers side area until the excess around the headlight is tucked away.

Installing the new cable and cleaning up (Inside the car):

1) Make sure you have the right amount of cable inside so that the latch will screw into place. (Don't screw it in yet!)

2) Make sure the hood cable goes between the e-brake cable and the side of your car.

3) Slide the e-brake back onto its bolt and tighten the nut down.

4) Push the hood cable until it fits properly with the e-brake.

5) Screw in the 2 screws on the e-brake and make sure its on snug with no wiggle.

6) Screw in the hood release lever. And test it. ( I suggest having someone pull the hood release lever while you test the hood latch with a screw driver. You test by pushing the shaft of the screwdriver down in the latch as if the hood was latching in. Pull up with a bit of force and if the latch opens when the person pulling the release lever lets go of it then you should be fine. However if it doesn't double check that you did every step correctly or it may be the latch itself that is faulty. Could try lubing up the latch so it operates more smoothly. )

7) If your test went well close the hood and try it for real. If it opens then everything went fine. If not you may need to driver around the block and pull the lever until the hood opens again and check what went wrong.

8) Put everything back into place on the kick board so it will fit correctly and screw it back in.

9) Push back the carpet to its usual spot.

10) snap the plastic panel back into place. May need to hit it a few times with your hand so it snaps in.

11) Snap back down the plastic trim at the base of the doorway (over the top of the plastic part you snapped in place in step 10).

12) Put back in your floor mat(s) and clean up.

Congratulations you have replaced your hood cable :)

open the lid and change it.

up and down if its manual or back and forth if its electric. have a day!

First, if you want to pay $100 for the part or $400 for Toyota to fix it, go ahead. Or take the plastic handle off, drill a 1/4 inch hole where the broken plastic arm comes off the plastic handle, and insert a 3" long, 1/4" thick bolt that has 1 inch of thread. Use two nuts, one on each side of the plastic handle to lock the bolt onto the handle. Use a hacksaw to cut off the bolt head. Bend the bolt upwards a bit if you need to. Reinstall the plastic handle. You just saved at least $100 and have a new latch that will never break again.

I have dealt with this problem before at our bodyshop. Basically, a spring inside the latch has broke, and now there is no way to release the latch, even by manually pulling on the release lever at the latch. Prepare to replace the latch, as it is not repairable.

Be prepared to be working inside the car. To make it easier to work, unbolt the seat, and remove from the car. Remove the door panel, and also the door handle. You will have to chisel at the plastic part of the latch, and break it off bit by bit. Eventually you will be able to release the latch.

good luck

let L: room is locked k: he selects rite key to open a door then

p(L' and k) = p(L') +P(K)-P(L AND K) ALSO P(L') = 0.4 (GIVEN)

WHERE

P(K) = 0.375

S0,

p(L' and k) = 0.4 + 0.375 - (0.375 * 0.4)

= 0.625

We get this from time to time. Usually you can get to the mechanism unless it has a guard over it. Then you have to have patience and luck. Find the cable where it comes out to the grill and try to disconnect the cable jacket from where it is held onto the latch. Then pull the whole cable, inside and out, together as a unit. Don't let the inner core move independently from the outer sheath. The idea is to grab the whole cable and pull on it and the latch should open. You have to disconnect the outer sheath from where it is attached to the latch for this to work. Sometimes you can remove the grill and see where the latch bolts on. Then remove the bolts and the hood and latch will come up as an assembly. Then you can unlatch the hood from the latch once everything is out in the open and visible.

"IN my case the cable actually came out of the latch. So I could pull on that sucker till the cows came home, but it wasn't gong to help. I just removed the front grill plastic. Four little torx head screws and then I unlatched it with a screw driver. Took about 20 minutes."

That answer worked perfectly! Then I cut away the plastic shroud inside the car around the broken lever and removed the lever mounting bracket (three hex head screws) with a socket and ratchet. Then exposed a couple of inches of cable by cutting away the wire reinforced plastic sleeve. Then clamped an inexpensive pair of locking pliers to the bare cable such that it would not only be handy for releasing the latch in the future, but also to serve as a weight to prevent any slack in the cable from causing the other end to jump out of the hood latch again. Also, make sure that the rubber grommet is still properly seated in the firewall hole to keep dangerous fumes from entering the passenger space. It is easily accessed from the inside.

I accidentally did this when I was changing out my door handles. You need something long and thin like a yardstick or a thin stiff metal tube or something of the sort use the poor sealing ability of the roof to your advantage and slide what-ever your using as a tool down between your glass and your rubber seal. Jam it in the door lever and pry outwards and walah! door should pop right open. It's basicly just poking it with a stick and fiddling till you get it just right.

It sounds like a problem with the remote, if you have one, stuck in the "open" position. Otherwise use an oil penetrant and work the latch manually until it returns to its normal position. Note: it could be stuck in the closed or shut position too, but less likely. Then you would need to try and get the latch itself open, even though the trunk lid is already open.

Remove the inner door panel. There will be an arm that is or in this case is not attached to the handle. There are two rods: one upper and one lower. Pull the top rod down to unlatch the top catch and pull the lower one up to unlatch the bottom catch. Hope this works.

I have the same problem and so far i have only found one solution. Climb in the trunk of the jeep and then remove the handle at the bottom of the trunk door (there will be 2 long bolts) this will release the plastic. Then pop the plastic off the bottom part of the trunk (the plastic will not come off all the way because there are 5 or 6 sheet metal screws holding the trim on around the upper part of the trunk). now get someone to help you, one person (the one with smaller hands) will be inside the car and reach their hand inside the latch housing in the trunk, there will be a threaded rod inside of there and what you need to do is have someone slide it (i dont remember if it is left or right) while the other person works the latch. If you cant get your hands in there (i let my little brother do it) you may find it easiest to use a coat hanger. this should release the trunk and then you should remove the rest of the plastic and tighten up the latch inside the trunk.

Obviously a Highfield key would be your best option. If you don't have one, or your key broke, you might be able to open it with a nail. The newer locks seem to have a stiffer spring that makes it near impossible to open without a key.

You will need a medium-small finishing nail and pliers (preferably Vice-Grips) with a cutter or a separate cutting tool. Hold the pointed end of the nail with the pliers about 1/4" to 1/2" up. You should be able to bend the nail over the pliers by hand. You want to create a 90 degree 'L' shape. Then, with your cutting tool, cut of most of the tip of the nail. This should leave you with a small stub sticking out.

Put the stub end all the way into the hole of the lock. You will feel a spring along the edges. Your goal is to hook the bottom of the spring and compress it back towards you. That will release the pressure on the 2 metal balls that hold the lock shut. I would recommend holding the nail with vice-grips.

If the nail bends back out of shape, you either need a thicker nail, or you're working with a newer lock. If you can't get the stub into the lock, you need a thinner nail, or you need to cut the stub down more.

Most Highfield locks are in use by utility (gas mostly) companies. In my area, I believe it is technically against the law to remove their locks. However, If you have a new tenant moving into a place in the evening or on the weekends you don't have much choice. They charge a $15 fee to remove the lock, turn the gas on and do a pressure test. They charge the same here if I remove the lock myself. You may want to find out what they do about people who remove locks in your area before doing so. The water companies here charge a $90 penalty if I turn the water on myself. Make sure you call them and put the gas in your name or your tenants name before removing the lock or ASAP.

44 inches

i would have to see a pic of the lock and the latch its going to hold on to., in order to answer correctly

"I had the same probelm with my 92' Voyager, the only thing I could do was to strip the cable's casing until you see the release cable itself, then grip it with a pair of vise grips and pull it. It should release it then. If not look under the front bumper and take a long screwdriver and see if you can push on the release latch to open the hood."

Or, you can remove the grille for easier access to the latch by removing the four torx head screws which hold the grille in place. If that works, and you can release the latch, make sure that the end of the cable is properly seated in the latch, and, take care in the future that you don't allow slack in the cable or it will pop out again. This is usually what happens when your release lever breaks inside the car. It creates enough slack in the cable to make it jump out at the other end where it seats in the hood latch. I now have a pair of locking pliers (vice-grips) hooked to my release cable inside the car and it works fine. I cut away the plastic shroud and removed the old lever bracket to make room. I also had to reinstall a small rubber grommet where the cable goes from the passenger compartment to the engine through the metal fire-wall. This is important as it prevents dangerous fumes from entering the passenger compartment.

first open door or if its already open, pull inside door handle while prying up on the actual locking mechanism it should move up into where it should br

doesn't stop blinking until you turn the wheel and the make the tires straight again

have you tried using two people at a time to open the hood - one to pull on up on the hood while the other pulls the interior release?

only way my '94 Accord would open. (or I prised release open with a screw-driver and pulled the hood myself)

hope it helps

Yeah, I tried that to no avail. The cable seems to be broken at the latch mechanism. I don't think I can remove the grill, either, without the hood open. I can get a screw driver into the hood space but there doesn't seem to be any access to the catch spring. Anyone have any other thoughts? This happened with my daughter's '96 Accord, I don't know if it will work on a Civic. I crawled under the front of the car and "carefully" slid a long metal rod up past the radiator and pushed on the release lever for the hood.

http://www.safeskieslocks.com/support.html

You have to get down under the car and unlatch it from the ground. It can be a real pain but it can be done. You need to look for where the cable leads if you aren't clear where you are looking.

Good luck. This always happens to my Lumina during the coldest week of winter when the battery dies.

The easiest way to solve that problem is to call a locksmith to unlock it for you.