Locks and Latches

Pull the inner door panel off and look inside the door and you will probably find a rod off the outside door handle.

Take something thin and bendable like a bobby pin or paperclip, put it in the key slot and twist until it kind of the shape of the key hole and when you hear a click turn the door and it should be unlocked. or take a hanger and put it in the side of the door and push it in and pull.

"You should be able to reach under the hood and pull the cable with a set of vice grips"

The question needs clarification: What car manufacturer and what year of make? Standard or remote cable latch? 92 Plymouth voyager - It can be done by removing the plastic housing underneath the windshield wipers and then removing the hood from the top.

Uh...I inserted my key in hood release mechanism to hold it open (like you would pull it with your hand) and then went up to the front of the car and pulled the hood free and then released it...That worked for me, hope it helps you too.

a Grinder

If this question is realted to locks, a key plan is the preliminary plan a locksmith develops to design the master key structure of a building. There may be individual room keys, keyed-alike locks for entry doors and related rooms, master keys for floors or building sections, maintenance keys for designated areas, and a single grand-master key that opens every lock in the building.

It is cheaper and easy to mold.

Let's say ur combination # is 14-04-14, turn it right(clockwise) until u get to 14. Then pass 4 once going left and then land on 4. Then go right to 14! Sometimes it won't wrk cause ur doing it wrong, plus im pretty sure that it only works 4 master locks! This is the SIMPLE way, not the long way!!

Sort of. You can retrofit a tether bracket, but not the lower anchors. See: http://www.saferidenews.com/pdfs/new_page_pdf/TM_LATCH_update702.pdf It's part number 73709-12010 for the tether bracket - they run about $12. The old part was 04731-22012 and includes the belt tightener "I" but no tether bracket.

There are people who have retrofitted the lower anchors by drilling holes and mounting brackets from other vehicles, including late 90's model Honda Civics. I wouldn't personally recommend that.

Caravans in Skegness typically open for the season around March and remain available until the end of October, depending on the specific site and its management policies. Many caravan parks may have varied opening dates, so it's best to check with individual sites for their exact schedules. During peak season, which generally runs from late May to early September, availability may be higher.

Sounds like the rod that attaches from the door lock to the handle mechanism may have come off. there is only a small clip that keeps this in place and it mat have broken. or a bushing within the locking mechanism itself may have worn out. I would check the rods first there may be up to 3 of them. 1 goes to locking mechanism near the window (in and out. lock with key and lift button), if electric locks, one may go to locking solenoid and the door release which goes to interior door handle and outside door hangle

If your battery is completely dead, or battery disconnected. The key, once in and turned would not come out for me. Once I charged up the battery I Was able to remove the key. You can also remove the small plug in the underside of the steering column. May not be a plug but just a circle so I used a small drill bit right in the middle of it. Very tough to see as there is only a small faint circle visible. Once removed it will expose a pin. i usually work blind and just push the small scew driver in the hole. Push the pin then the key will turn back to the full off position and can be removed.

I know its simple but make sure battery is good, if it is something else is going on, it could be there's a bit of corrosion on connectors where the battery goes

---- Hey, I hate to tell ya' but drilling is the easiest way and the only way unless you want to weld it on. my e-150 has locks on the side and rear with a weather-guard bulkhead behiend the seats. trust me there worth it.

Try pulling the hood release then going to the hood and pulling up on the hood by the edges. If it pops up manually then you can spray up the latch and mechanism real good and it should get better. If not then you will have to fish in the grill and try to release the latch.

Also you may need to crank out the spring loaded hood supports on each side of the hood to add more pressure on the hood so when you release the hood it would pop open because of added pressure. Just a half turn on each one or so counter clockwise;

To open a locked door, you can use a key if you have one that fits the lock. If you don't have a key, you might try picking the lock with tools like a tension wrench and a pick, though this requires some skill. Alternatively, you could use a credit card to slide between the door and the frame to disengage a spring bolt, but this only works on certain types of locks. If all else fails, consider calling a locksmith for professional assistance.

Slim Jim products, a brand of meat snacks by ConAgra Foods, include meat, spices, and other additives. The actual recipe is proprietary and highly secret.

A metal device that is used to unlock automobiles is also called a Slim Jim. It works only on locks in vehicles manufactured up to a certain year, and is usually made from sheet metal. The possession or ownership of one is restricted, and even illegal, in many countries so be sure to check your local laws before purchasing.

with the key

You can get a diagram for the driver door lock mechanism for a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo at various auto part stores. You can also check in the owner's manual.

Is this the rear passenger door or the tail gate door and what year and model vehicle is this?

I just had the same problem with my 1996 Lumina APV. I removed the rear speaker cover, removed the speaker, and reached in and found the linkage on that particular side to open (if both sides won't open, you'll need a helper to click off at the same time). Dunno if yours is the same.

A master key system is designed to eliminate many keys being carried around and more than one being able to open a lock. The Master key would open all locks and an operating key would open only one lock. Therefore, two different cut keys would open the same lock.

There are times when many different keys might open a certain lock such as a janitor or entry door. In this case there are many pins in the lock cylinder to allow the various keys to let the pins meet the shear line. The shear line is the area where the inner cylinder meets the outside shell or lock. When the pins are aligned at the shear line there is a gap and the cylinder can be turned. The more the pins in the cylinder, the more the keys can be used to open, to include those not part of a system. Some master keyed locks would be easier to be picked because of the large amount of possibilities to create a break at the shear line.

A lock with many keys is a therefore more prone to a breach in security.

I assume it is a GM car..I have several Cadillacs and they have all done this ... You have to remove the door panel (not very easy with the door closed, but it has to be done) reack your hand in toward the lock unit at the end of the door while getting someone to try pulling the lock up .... gently. Every model has a slightly different system, but it should be replaced. Check with a salvage yard and see if they have on for your car, once the door is open, it is quite easy to replace. Just libricate/grease it well before you install it. You might want to pick one up first, then you will know what you are reaching for. You don't need the lock itself (the key unit) you just need the mechanism and rods that actually lock the door. Best of luck.

Take it to a body shop as they have to open then on wrecks.