Pontiac Transport

what are the torque specs on a 3.4 s.f.i

Easy:

1) Disconnect the air hose clips.

2) Unbolt the bottoms of the shocks.

3) Unbolt the tops of the shocks

4) Install new shocks

5) When installing the hoses to the new shocks, make sure the seals are clean and lubricate them lightly with a little silicone.

Now, replacing the pressure hoses, that is a much harder job.

Number one cylinder is the back (by the fire wall ) left hand cylinder as you are facing, and looking into the engine compartment from the front of the vehicle. The even numbered cylinders are next to the radiator, and the odd numbered cylinders are next to the firewall.

Pontiac Transprots are bad for having the intake gasket go... it can cause overheating. That's what was wrong with mine, but it was about 13 hours of work replacing it and I'm pretty familiar with minivans.

It can also be the head gasket, if it is it will usually burn coolant, and or the oil will be milky coloured, and or the cooland will be oily, and or the compression will be bad and or the engine will idle poorly/ use too much gas.

Good luck

The steering wheel controls are probably bad The only fuse is the radio fuse and if the radio works the fuse is OK Also if you do not have the original stereo, and your new stereo does not have a place to plug in those controls they will not work.

This wire is connected to the solenoid along with a wire going to the power distribution system (Fuse box), but the connection or split is after the fusible link on the wire comming from the alternator. On most vehicles, those connections are attached to the same solenoid bolt. The connection there at the bolt, is done there because the large Positive battery cable also comes to that bolt.

The 1997 Pontiac Transport 3400 rocker arm torque specifications are 18 pounds. The rocker arm should be torqued in six pound intervals.

The year, engine size and type are critical to being able to accurately answer your question. If you are mechanically inclined, I would suggest you purchase a relatively inexpensive repair manual and follow the steps outlined. I've been working on my own vehicles for over 40 years and I still purchase a Chilton's repair manual or equivalent before I start working on a different vehicle that I bought. A step by step guide is invaluable.

if your trying to fix the oil leak the oil pan gasket isn't going to do it our 3800 has leaked oil since is was new dealer put a new pan gasket in it about 4 times the pan gets warped and leaks again with in a few weeks

on my 97 jetta (same model) just open the trunk with your key and then close it

if the vin codes match then they should but i'd look at the wiring diagrams to be sure...

go to pisk a part and get a used one. If their is one there.

There is no emergency fuel shut off. The ignition switch just shuts down the Power train Control Module.

The fuel pressure and timing of the fuel to the fuel rails at the engine are also controlled by that control module.

The only control the driver has over fuel delivery is that of turning the ignition switch on or off, and how much you press the gas pedal.

I personnally think that is why we have so many fires during collisions, the pressure is on the line to the engine as long as there is power to the fuel pump which is mounted in the fuel tank.

I would say the mechanic didn't re-install the tachometer wire ,whereever it goes on this motor,which I don't know. I would say the mechanic didn't re-install the tachometer wire ,whereever it goes on this motor,which I don't know.

The ecm is located behind the "glove box", in the center console between the seats.

first take the plastic cover off under the steering colum, then look athe the bottom of the colum and you will see a switch with a small metal rod going to it with the wire plug on the side, I think the the 2 small bolts are 8mm. then reverse procedure to install.

For starters, you should never bench test the fuel pump. I had a friend in my shop once who thought he was a mechanic, my fuel pump wasn't kicking on so he decided to "bench" test it while i wasn't looking, and it ruined the pump. The pump should never be run dry. Mine turned out to be some bad wiring and a fusible link, but these problems are very hard to diagnose. A lot of looking, a lot of replacing, and a big pain.

When I bought my 1998 Pontiac it came with a kit that had the hoses. On left side of van by the lift gate is a panel cover. Take it off & insert the hose. The compressor should work. At least that's how mine works.

It is located inside the frame that contains the wiper motor and reduction gear. You should take the whole wiper system off in order to get an access to the board.

I experienced this and discovered that the main coil wire from the coil pack (distributor module)was rubbing against the underside of the dog house (engine cover). The wire was worn almost flat at the point of contact. Thus causing the ignitin to short out. I replaced the wire and all is well. My 1998 Chevy G1500 conversion van has some of the same parts as your Astro. I had these symptoms and eventually the van cut off and stopped running completely. Call your local auto parts store and see if they will loan you a code scanner for the OBD under your dash by the steering wheel. You can plug the reader in, turn on the car, follow the reader's instructions and retrieve any trouble codes that might relate to the stalling. There may be no codes present, however, if the problem is the computer itself. I had to replace the ECM (Engine Control Module). The battery was fully charging and the voltage remained constant. The plugs and wires looked healthy. The distributer cap had no cracks and I had no other warning symptoms. The car simply died from time to time. Usually, it would restart and run fine after letting it cool down. I removed the ECM and opened it up to inspect the greenboards. There was a burned out section on the greenboard. I removed the knock sensor and bought a replacement ECM. The knock sensor had to be put back in the new ECM and the ECM had to be reprogramed specifically to my vehicle's VIN number. I had the part supplier program it for me for $70 I bought the mid-priced ECM in case the thing burned out again due to me missing the burn-out cause. After the replacement, there is an anti-theft, security override process that you have to follow so that the vehicle will start. Put your key in the ignition cylinder and turn it to the ON (RUN) position. The "security" light on the dashboard will flash for 15 minutes. When the security light stops flashing, turn the ignition cylinder to the OFF then back to the ON position. The security light on the dash will flash for 15 more minutes. When the security light stops turn the ignition cylinder to OFF and then back to the ON position. The security light on the dash will flash for 15 more minutes. After the security light stops flashing for the third time, the new computer has been programmed to the recognize your key again.

Yes now i now.
At the camshaft has at each one place for bolt too fix them and the cramschaft has mark wich must be in line with nut .

Nic day too all.

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The thermostat is taking long time to change. Is situated in right side of the engine (from front of vehicule). Just follow the big hose from the radiator and you will see the headbow. It's between the exaust manifold extension and the engine just below the throttle body. If you want to change it and make it easier, you will have to remove the throttle body (consist in 3 bolts). Once is done, just remove the headbow and that's it. (the job is approximately 1 hour and half for professionnal and more thant 3 hours for user).

http://car.justanswer.com/uploads/JHoop/2008-05-03_202404_Thermostat.pdf

Disconnect the fuse for the door. It will reset and work again. You can also disconnect the battery. A little WD40 on the rollars will help as well.

The fuse is labeled "tail" and it's the lower left one in the glove box fuses