VW Jetta

fans not coming on when they are supposed to coolant might be too old or the wrong coolant water pump might not be working air pocket in coolant system coolant temp sensor faulty could be debris in front of radiator

Also there is the fan circuitry under the coolant globe. In some cases I have seen that constant overflow has damaged circuits in the box and the unit will need replacement

I have a 1996 VW dl jetta and to add the transmission fluid is on the right front side of the car underneath by the tire. My husband had to put it in that way. But he said he will never go through that again. To add tranny fluid you have to go to the garage. Because they have to pump the fluid in the tranny. There is no place to check the tranny fluid like a reg. car? Crazy but true.

I had a front left flasher problem on my jetta 97. The bulb looked OK but you could notice the solder on one of the contact on the bulb was some sort of melted a little. That was enough to make it stop working. Even tried to pull on the contact blade in the connector. It work for couple of days and bam ded again. Replaced with a new bulb and flasher worked again. Hope it help someone. == == the Flasher Or a bad turn signal switch

through the rear package compartment under the matting

it could be; A- you love who they use to be.. or

B- you love the thought of loving them

i have a 2004 Chevy Malibu classic which i think is the same as a 2003. the sizes r 4-6 on the front doors and 6-9 on the back.

you need a special puller, it is designed to remove the pulley whitch is pressed on, after the pulley is removed you can get to the 4 bolts that secure the pump, the puller also servs the purpose of pressing the pully back on, can be bought at most auto parts stores, i paid around $70 for mine, unless you do this type of work often it will get used once and that's it, so you may be dollars ahead just to pay someone to do it for you

I think you could tow up to 10 or 12 thousand pounds.

You just need to replace the flat 4 with an engine and trans-axle from a late '60s Olds Tornado and build a real frame under the box. ...probably do wheelies and smoie burnouts too.

...Bug Power...

Be careful - some of these products can plug the heater core

Upon being granted his dream job, after much ridicule, Rudolph Diesel decided that his line of work was very exhausting and that an alternative must be found. He needed to invent a device that would produce enough power to carry cargo and one large passenger. It also had to be effecient and operate in cold weather, even the North Pole. In 1897,after many years tinkering in the workshop and during the off season, the diesel engine was born. Santa now has a trucking fleet all using these engines and Rudolph Diesel has become addicted to ice.

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You remove the handle and power lock/window unit (the control buttons for windows and locks) by using a trim puller or small flat head screwdriver. Gently pull up one side then the other, separate the unit from the door pull rubber handle and once it is free, disconnect the wiring. There are three bronze screws that need to be removed once the unit is out. Take them out. A big standard screwdriver is needed. Don't lose them in the door, well it's ok cus if you take the whole panel off they will fall out later.

Next to get the entire door panel off, remove screws at bottom of door (torx) and I had a screw at the top right of the door panel almost on the inside by where it rests against the dash (which I didn't see and sort of broke the little part holding it - oh well). Once those are all out, slide the trim puller/screwdriver in and gently pull the panel up and out a little. Once the left side is free then move to the right side, pull up sharply when all are loose and it should come free. Raise it up to free the push lock at top left and rest it on a box or have someone hold it. Oh, you thought you were done? NOOOOOOOOOOOO.

For the handle cable assembly, disengage the cable from the pully by gently pulling where it connects until it comes loose, then twist, and pull away. Now gently disconnect all the electrical wiring connections. About eight to ten of them. GENTLY. Most of them have to be disengaged by pushing a lever in or using a flat head screwdrive to assist. DON'T PULL ON THE WIRES! Once that is done, the panel is free.

Why are you trying to remove the panel?

And in the immortal words of the oh-so-helpful Haynes Manual, "Installation is the reverse of removal."

the front speakers are 4"x6"

the rear speakers are 3-1/2"

First, if you want to pay $100 for the part or $400 for Toyota to fix it, go ahead. Or take the plastic handle off, drill a 1/4 inch hole where the broken plastic arm comes off the plastic handle, and insert a 3" long, 1/4" thick bolt that has 1 inch of thread. Use two nuts, one on each side of the plastic handle to lock the bolt onto the handle. Use a hacksaw to cut off the bolt head. Bend the bolt upwards a bit if you need to. Reinstall the plastic handle. You just saved at least $100 and have a new latch that will never break again.

swap the transmission with one that has gearing allowing you to go that high, turbocharge it, and drive downhill. Also, remove the electronic limiter in the ECU programming.

On VWs trunk light may need to have headlights on to operate.

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It won't go out unless you figure out whats causing it to come on. Most common is a faulty O2 sensor but could be a number of other components. Take it to Autozone or one of the common auto parts stores and have them scan it for the generic fault codes.

I don't have a Focus, but you might be able to just pull out the fuse. Your fuse box will most likely be under the dash on the driver's side. You'll have to look in a manual to figure out which one to pull.

If it is on the door, you have to remove the door trim pad.

The guy who said that ^^ didn't read your question. You asked about the rear view mirror, not the driver-side mirror or passenger-side mirror. As for your answer, I have been trying to find out for myself. What I have found so far is that you rotate the mirror about 90 degrees to either side and it should pop off. Do NOT pull or push very hard because you risk cracking or breaking your windshield. I .

my 77 f250 351m passed smog with flying colors. i started with a truck that had been stripped of all smog components i used the vac diagram from a 77 f100 auto trans even though mine is a manual trans because of its simplicity. try to get the diagram your smog shop has. if they dont have one or dont have a good one then use this one. the shop manager at a very old ford dealer told me that if the smog guy cant prove you wrong then you are right. i have this diagram and am happy to share it because it was shared with me and was a great help.

buy 2 cans of R134 and thetool with hose with a pierce and control knob. Crank engine, cut AC on high blower and windows closed. Find the low side drier cannister and filler service port. Attach can hose to low side fill port- turn knob clockwise to puncture can and counter clockwise to release freon into system. Watch and feel drier as it will be getting cold - or should be. If you have poor AC then one can may do the trick. Be careful after that -that you do not add too much from another can. If you can get 40 degree air out of the vents you are doing goood. Too much freon can damage the compressor in cooler weather if you use the AC. type in RS12A on your search engine. It's an alternative gas.

The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at various low temperatures depending on weight, and is therefore suitable for Winter use. 5W is tested at -25C, 10W at -20C, 15W at -15C, and 20W at -10C.

red

its probably your brake light switch. jiggle the little sensor connected to the top of the brake pedal.