Water Pumps

Thermostats operate in a way so as to control (through their extensions) temperature about a selected setpoint. Some are fixed and some can have the setpoints selected. There must be some "sensor" in the device that will react to changes in temperature. The response of the "sensor" is used to direct intervention to affect control of the temperature. Wikipedia has a good post on the different types of thermostat and how they work. A link is provided.

because your thermostat is opening and closing as the engine temp. fluctuates

Just an hour or two.Remember reversed thread on your fan .

Check the thermostat first - if it is not opening (stuck), coolant will not flow through the engine block and, therefore, will not flow thorugh the heater core.

In any case, if the water pump or thermostat is faulty, the engine could overheat causing serious damage.

Same as Non- Turbo decribed on this site. Although, I have never needed to remove the A/c Compressor or the Alt to complete the repair. A small mechanics mirror is helpful to some for the gasket removal. Scotch-Brite type scrubbing pads work well to remove gasket material bits once the majority is off.

First, disconnect the negative battery cable. Then drain the coolant into a pan by loosening the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. In order to access the water pump, first remove the drive belt, alternator, belt cover, engine hose, heater hose, and radiator hose. Remove the water pump, then clean the engine around the mounts with degreaser. Replace gaskets and spread silicone on the water pump to secure them. Install the new water pump and replace the bolts and all other hardware that had been removed. Refill the radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and reattach the battery cable.

the thermostat is located under the car just follow the big lower radiator hose to the motor and its right there

True-- thermostat is located inside the engine part (water pump) where the lower hose attaches to the engine. Be careful with the bolts, use penetrating oil, you do not want to break one. Try to use a Subaru thermostat and gasket-- expensive, but cheaper than an overheated engine, most places do not stock the required thermostat, being an oddball temperatiue (167F), putting in a "regular 195F" thermostat WILL cook your engine. The gasket is really an O-ring affair-- it works nicely. Try not to re-use the old O ring gasket.

Torque in this sequence: Torx and 15mm headed bolts - 30ft lbs. The 7, 10 mm hex nuts - 5 ft lbs. The 7, hex head bolts - 5ft lbs. Take note not to overtighten as this will damage the timing cover.

For the true "do-it-yourselfer", the easiest way to find info on your car's maintenance is to purchase a total care manual from Chiltons. You may find these books at your local part dealers e.g. "Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts" or even your locally owned parts houses carry them. The books are make and model specific so a little searching may be in order. These books are an invaluable source of info for the person who doesn't mind getting their hands dirty. One tip, if you have never changed a water pump, use the approach that new machanics are taught. After purchasing you replacement water pump, set the new pump on a medium size box and draw an outline of the pump on the box. Don't forget the bolt holes. As you take off the old water pump stick the bolts through the diagram of the pump on the box and that way you know where every bolt should go when you start to reassemble.

A water pump has a "weep" hole. When the seals start to wear out the water pump will still start to leak from this hole. When this happens it is time to change the water pump.

They are 43 Ft. lbs

i need to look at the book or the page

I just replaced my water pump on a '94 1.8L, I am assuming they are the same. The water pump is located under the timing belt cover. You should flush and drain the cooling system before you start. You must remove (and replace while your this far) the timing belt. To do this you have to remove the left front tire and the shields to access the front of the engine from below. Support the engine with a jack. Remove the serpentine belts and the motor mount on top. Remove the upper timing belt cover. Now the fun part. You have to remove the crankshaft screw while holding the crankshaft from turning. I fabricated a fixture to hold it by taking a piece of bar stock 1/4 x 2 x 24 and drilling holes for two carriage bolts and a hole in the center of them for a 1/2 inch socket extension (fits inside of the crank bolt instead of a socket on the outside). I had to grind some flats on the carriage bolts to allow them to fit inside of the crank pulley. I then wedged the bar to the ground and loosened the crank bolt. You will probable have to use a gear puller to remove the crank pulley. Once the pulley is off, remove the bottom timing cover. Loosen the timing tensioner bolt and use a screwdriver or something to push the tensioner down to relieve the tension on the timing belt. Tighten the tensioner bolt when you have the tension relieved. Slide the timing belt off. The water pump will be on your right. You will have to remove the small bracket above the alternator to remove the water pump. Remove the screws for the water pump and watch for the flow of antifreeze coming at you! Use a gasket adhesive or a small amount of gasket sealer to hold the new gasket in place. Follow the directions on replacing the timing belt for aligning the marks. As I write this I am trying to figure out this step. My crank sprocket does not have any marks on it for aligning with the block. I will have to find TDC on #1 to proceed. Hope this helps. Roughly a 3-4 hour job. Any questions reply to macandmaz@netzero.com Enjoy! You should set the engine to #1 TDC (Top Dead Centre) before you remove anything. The easiest way is to trace the #1 cylinder ignition wire back to the distributor, and note it's relative position. Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine over until the rotor (the piece in the center) is close to the noted position. Now there should be a small notch in the back lip of the crank pulley, rotate the engine by hand with a 1/2" ratchet clockwise (while looking at the pulley)until the notch lines up with the "TDC" mark, not the "10 BTDC". The notch on the front of the camshaft pulley should now line up with a small pointer that is cast into the head.

"G", I've clicked on the link you provided, and I'm not authorized to view it, since I'm not a memeber of that Forum. I've been trying for two days now to join, but their confirmation code never comes up. Could you get approval from the webmaster of that Forum to post the proceedure here? There seem to be quite a few of us fighting this same issue, it cost me a pulled tricep trying to get the power steering pump pulley off, so now it's either i get some help from the web or pay a mechanic to do it. I'd rather be my normal grease-under-the-nails cheapskate and do it myself if possible! Please help us out! Sorry, you do not leave a contact but that website changed their policy and removed their knowledge base postings. A dis-service to many people out there. Hope the following will help. 1) Drain the radiator. 2) Loosen the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley. You will remove the pulley and install it on the new pump. Just loosen the bolts 1/4" turn with the belt still on, this will prevent the pulley from turning. 3) Remove serpentine belt. 4) Remove 4 bolts and the pulley and set aside. 5) Remove two power steering pump bolts (15mm). You must do this because one of the bolts for the water pump is behind the PS pulley, and you can

Water pump location on a Chevrolet Celebrity varies both by the year and engine. I need to know the year and engine in your car to answer your question.

Yes

You will be able to remove this from under the car. You have to slack the belt first, there is a long adjustable bolt that releases the tension on the belt.

The pulley is part of the pump assembly. I don't think it comes off. The clutch fan unbolts from there. Is that what you mean?

1. jack the vehicle up on both sides, use jack stands if possible.

2. Remove Passenger front tire, along with plastic splash shield

3. Drain coolant

4. With serpentine belt still installed, loosen the 3 bolts on the water pump

pulley, don't take them all the way off, just loosen them.

5. Use a 14mm wrench to reduce tension on the serpentine belt enough

so you can slide the belt off

6. Remove the water pump pulley bolts, remove pulley, or let it rest on the

pump shaft.

7. Remove water pump housing bolts (6 of them) and discard the gasket

8. reverse procedure to reinstall new water pump

please visit my bio page for access to my Saturn help site for a picture of your water pump.

1. jack the vehicle up on both sides, use jack stands if possible.

2. Remove Passenger front tire, along with plastic splash shield

3. Drain coolant

4. With serpentine belt still installed, loosen the 3 bolts on the water pump

pulley, don't take them all the way off, just loosen them.

5. Use a 14mm wrench to reduce tension on the serpentine belt enough

so you can slide the belt off

6. Remove the water pump pulley bolts, remove pulley, or let it rest on the

pump shaft.

7. Remove water pump housing bolts (6 of them) and discard the gasket

8. reverse procedure to reinstall new water pump

It can get in through the timing cover. That does car does not have a "timing belt" cover, but it has a "timing chain cover." There is a BIG difference, as a timing belt cover does not have coolant and oil running through it, but a timing chain cover does have both coolant and oil running through it.

Ouch, tough one. You might be able to have a machine shop drill and tap a hole that would let you screw a pipe in to hook up a tube. It would depend on what is directly behind that hole in the engine. Consult a machine shop or mechanic.

Not a plumber however I do know it varies buy region. You need to know the depth of the freeze line in your area. That will determine the depth to install your hydrant.

No you can't. The car will still overheard. Mine dies that now. And if u continue to drive you will blow your engine

For the most part, they purchase water when they port, loading it much the same way as they do fuel. Some ships have desalination systems, but they are difficult to use, expensive to maintain and don't work well in rough seas.