Brake Pads and Rotors

Though the brakes themselves aren't that complex, but due to the problems you could have with the system afterwards, you need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

IT DEPENDS ON WETHER IT IS A GAS MOTOR OR A DIESEL , OR IF YOU WANT STOCK OR AFTER MARKET.

If your rear brakes are disces you cant adjust them but if there drum brakes they can.There is a small oblong hole at the bottom of the backing plate.Jack up one side and try adjusting one wheel at a time.You can use a flathead screw driver to do this.

If you change pads regularly and drive carefully they should last the life of the car, at least 150-200, 000 miles. -I have only ever had to change discs when people before me have abused the brakes.

brake hose is bad

Lift vehicle, remove wheels, loosen master cylinder cap, push back caliper piston by using a screwdriver between the inner pad & the rotor. Remove the caliper retaining bolts, lift off caliper, remove old pads (noting where squealer tab is), replace with new pads. Make sure slider bolts are free and cleanup housing where the pads move back & forth on. Lube with silicone grease or grey antiseize compound. Also a light film of silicone grease on the backing of the pads where they contact the caliper will stop squeals. Reinstall calipers, tighten bolts, put on tires. Pump brake pedal to push out the piston so the pads contact the rotors. Don't push the pedal to the floor when pumping up the brakes, short pumps, no more than 1/3-1/2 of the way down or you could damage the seals in the master cylinder.

Remove wheel

Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place

Remove Parking brake cable

Remove brake fluid line

Remove caliper mouting bolts

Slide caliper off rotor Reverse procedure for install

Open bleeder screw at top of caliper

Allow brake fluid to start running from caliper

Have assistant apply brake pedal approx. 2/3 of complete travel

Hold and tighten bleeder screw

That procedure should remove air from caliper

You eyes, compared to not looking at them at all.

look under the back of your truck. there should be a steel line running from each brake cylinder to a splitter about midway down the axel. there should also be a metal line running from the splitter to the fluid reseviour in your engine compartment. to remove the lines: find the proper size wrench. loosen and remove the line. replace the line with a new one. tighten it up. you will have to add more fluid to the resivour (dot 3 brake fluid) afterwards. now you "bleed" the brakes to remove the air from the lines (air in the lines causes squishy, and uneven brake opperation.) to bleed the brakes: get a friend. this is a 2 person job. one of you get in the cab (person 1). the other under the truck by the wheel that the new line was put on (person 2). there will be a little valve poking out of the back of the brake just above or beside the brake line. now: person 1 = (1), person 2 = (2) have (1) step on the brakes hard and hold them. (2) open the bleeder valve until (1) yells "FLOOR!" (this means that the brake petal has gone all the way to the floor.) as soon as (2) hears "floor," close the valve. next (1) pumps the brakes 3-4 times to build up pressure. (2) open the valve again and then close it when (1) hollers. repeat this procedure until only brake fluid comes from the bleeder valve. you will see air sputter out as well for a few goes. once the air is removed from the lines, refill the resiviour with fluid. put the cap back on. then your good to go.

note: be carefull when opening the valve. the fluid can shoot pretty far. also make sure that you do it where you don't mind getting plenty of fluid on the ground. and remember, brake fluid will discolor clothes and any other cloth is comes in contact with.

Hey can you explain where your up to in the removal process ? You can jack the back of the car up so both wheels are off the ground. Then romve both wheels Then you'll have to back off the rear shoes from the inside of the the hub with a screw driver. Then remove centre bearing nut Remove drum and photo or take off one side and see how it goes back together by looking at the otherside for the right procedure. Re-fit drum and adjust shoes until it is frim to turn under hand and no more. Hope it helps.

You need a tool that can compress the piston at the same time you can rotate the caliper clockwise. Or you can use a clamp and a screwdriver to gently compress the piston.

Well one is made of ceramic and one is metal. But the real differences show up in different performance characteristics. Most are very minor though. Pretty much for the average user.....with ceramic brakes all that brake dust you see should start to disappear. Trucks and SUVs with open wheels exposing the rotors etc have this small cosmetic problem, especially in the front where most of the braking is done.

remove wheel remove caliper by removing 2 bolts on back side of caliper.use an old coat hanger or such, to hang caliper so as not to break fluid line with large channel lock pliers, remove dust cap from center of rotor then u need special socket to remove the axle nut. after removing this nut be careful not to drop bearings when you slide rotor of the axle spindle

During menstruation you would change your pad once it has been full with blood or everytime you have to use the bathroom.

Ignition rotor and cap? Remove distributor cap usually clips or screws Rotor should lift off - replace in same position should have a "key" slot to insure proper position Install new distributor cap and transfer wires one at a time to insure proper placement

support employment - take it to a mechanic!

Both....they are usually conjoined by a single cable.

Remove wheel loosen and remove flexible brake line to caliper Remove 2 mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor

The easiest way to replace the stud without taking out the hub, is to shave a part of the stud head so it fits in the cramped area, and first cut off the old stud for easy removal. But the right way is to remove the hub with either a machine press or axle remover, which you can borrow from an autoparts store. Just be very careful not to bang the the hub much which can damage the inernal bearings.

Rotor blades are on a helicopter. Brake rotors or discs are on the brakes of a vehicle.

Rear caliper to rear caliper bracket bolts, 32 ft. lbs.

You can if you want to, but I don't think it is the best choice to do.

not much, i just did my fronts for $95 but you can do it for cheaper than that, just find out much the parts are at your locol auto store.

In my experience it's been about every 30k miles. I do a fair amount of off-roading and since the traction control uses the brakes and since I'm often very loaded with camping gear on long trips, this may be more often than normal. The pad sensors will tell you about a thousand miles before they need replacing, so you can let the car tell you when it's time. Note: Don't let anyone tell you the rotors can be "turned" or resurfaced, if they say that, find another mechanic. I tried that once and it is a waste of time and money, they will be noisy and you will just end up replacing them anyway, you need to replace the rotors at every brake job.

bleading brakes requires 2 people there is are little bolt like things on the back plate just above the brake line in the rear you need one person to pump the brake peddle until it gets hard while a person opens this screw air and oil will shoot out. do this until there is no air in the line (only fluid will shoot out) do this to all four brakes and the peddle will eventually will be normal. any further questions email me at crazyarmydad@hotmial.com