Mercury Villager

You shouldn't really reset it until you know why the light is on. You can find this out by going to any place that will do OBD2(1996 and newer) or a OBD1(1995 or older) test. That test can clear it. Or there is always the non-recommended way too. that would be to disconnect the negative battery cable for 15+ minutes. doing this you will lose all of your radio presets and time in the vehicle.

the butterfly tends to get gunked up. remove air intake assembly to get to throttle body butterfly. i used an old toothbrush and some carb cleaner on it to remove buildup.

Actually, the same trouble shooting guidelines can be applied to any modern engine. 1.When is the last time you had a tune-up done? On newer cars this usually just means plugs and wires.(replace only defective wires. $30.-$45. each) 2.A coil(s) on the verge of breakdown may be the culpit. 3.Low fuel pressure. Checked at the fuel rail and can be adjusted if the fuel pump is ok. 4.Dirty air management valve. This should be cleaned periodocally by a competent mechanic. 5.Faulty PCV valve 6.Vacuum leaks (nasty little buggars to find) 7.Loose or defective gas cap If all else fails, get an engine diagnosis done. This will check the electrical components and check for any trouble codes in the computer.

The bottom of the seat can be removed by pushing with your knee on the front bottom of the seat, about one foot on each side.Then lift up, and then poof ur done!!!!!!

Dead battery? Battery cables in need of cleaning or replacement?

ALL Subaru knock sensors are: 1) in the same place 2) look the same The knock sensor is always found mounted to the engine block (12mm head on bolt) under the intake manifold in about the middle of the engine. Either being a Bosch unit, or a copy made under licence, they all appear to be the same: http://rb-k.bosch.de/en/start/sensorik/kopfsensor.html Being the one with the moulded-in leads. Locate the wiring in the vacinity of the throttle body and follow it down to the knock sensor. Changing one needs about $100 worth of tools, small hands, and LOTS of patience. They are expensive, be warned, before you buy check the thing with a volt-ohm meter, typical resistence is 300-500 ohms.

Make sure the key lock under the rear window is turned to the door unlock position ,not the glass unlock position.

The front wiper arms on a 1997 Mercury Villager clip off once they are bent backwards. To install the new wipers simply slide them into the clip.

most auto parts stores do it for free

THE HAZZARD OR 4 WAY FLASHER BUTTON IS LOCATED AT THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE INSTRUMENT GUAGE CLUSTER IN A PANEL OF VERTICLE SWITCHES THAT ALSO INCLUDES THE REAR WIPER,HEATER AND WASHER ALSO THE EAT BUTTON,WHICH RAISES THE TRANS SHIFT POINT.

The knock sensor is located in the engine "V" under the upper and lower intake manifolds, and under the coolant crossover pipe. It requires considerable disassembly to get to. If you have a code for the knock sensor, be advised that the knock sensor is probably NOT the problem. Many problems will set the code for the knock sensor because they share part of the circuit. There are two oxygen sensors, one at the front where the exhaust pipe comes down and turns toward the back, and one behind the second converter, under the passenger seat.

It's fairly easy and you'll spend about 30 minutes if you're handy with screwdriver. Read the entire instructions first, so you'll have everything you'll need on hand.

Place the vehicle on a flat area and set the parking brake. Chock the wheels. Use the tilt steering wheel control to move the steering wheel to it's lowest position and lock there. Insert your key and turn far enough to be able to shift gearshift to 1st gear (the lowest position). Use a short #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws located above the instrument panel. On the left side of the dashboard, remove the small panel with the headlight and dimmer control. I could do mine with my fingertips and some moderate pressure. You can unplug the wires to this control with minimal effort. Find the release tab on each, depress it and firmly remove each connector without putting too much strain on the wires. Make a note where each connector went. Remove the 3rd screw holding the trim piece in place. Carefully remove the trim, it's plastic, and you may also have to pull out the center trim piece overlapping the right side of the instrument panel trim to get it to come out. There are 4 electrical connectors on the right side of the instrument trim, find the release tab on each and remove. These are also keyed to only fit the proper connector, but you might want to label them to avoid trial and error later on.. You can now completely remove the instrument panel trim piece.

There will be 4 black #2 Phillips screws holding in the instrument cluster. Remove those with a magnetic tipped screwdriver to avoid dropping the screws into the nether regions of the dashboard. Once those are removed, you can carefully manipulate the cluster forward and lean it forward. If all you are doing is replacing light bulbs, you don't have to disconnect the connectors and remove the cluster completely. There are typically 6 larger black "twist-off" bulb holders that need a #194 bulb (very common, available at stores everywhere, including Wal-Mart). A quarter turn in a counter-clockwise direction will release the holder. The bulbs pull straight out and the new ones push straight in. Only do one at a time. Place the bulb holder in the appropriate hole and turn 1/4 turn clockwise. Repeat for the remainder of the bulbs with the black holders.

There will be approximately 12 much smaller bulb holders with a type 37 bulb. I've found that only my local Napa parts store sells these, so get a dozen of them ahead of time. Replace each bulb one at a time like the larger ones. There are typically 2 bulb holders that contain LEDs which you won't need to remove or replace. Once all the bulbs are replaced, you're ready to test and reassemble.

Position the instrument cluster back onto the mounting posts, but don't replace the screws yet. Shift the gear shirt to the "P" (park) position, put your foot on the brake, and turn the key off and then on to the light test position (do not start the vehicle!). Ensure your instrument panel lights all work. If so, drop the shifter back to 1st gear and replace the 4 screws holding the cluster in place. Here's where a magnetic tip screwdriver will really come in handy.

Maneuver the instrument cluster trim piece back into position and reconnect the connectors on the right side of the trim piece, holding the front of each connector with the palm of your hand for counterpressure. Don't force the plugs. They should go back in easily and you will feel a "click" when each is seated properly. Pull the lighting connectors through from the left side, then put the trim piece in it's final position. You will have to overlap the center console trim price to get the trim to fit perfectly. There will also be some rubber flaps over the steering column that will need to all align properly. Replace the 3 screws holding the trim piece in place. Reconnect the lighting panel connectors on the left of the trim piece and snap it back in place with only moder pressure.

Return your shift lever to Park "P" and reposition your tilt steering wheel to where it is comfortable for you.

Start the vehicle and ensure that every switch that you disconnected and reconnected is functional (typically headlights, dimmer, hazard flashers, rear wiper, rear wiper wash, rear defroster, security indicator). Turn off the vehicle, remove the wheel chocks, release the parking brake and perform a test drive to ensure that the instrument cluster gauges still function (tachometer, speedometer, fuel gauge, temperature sensor, batter voltage, etc.). If any of them do not function, you'll need to perform the maintenance function again to find any plugs not properly seated. However, if everything works well, you've just saved yourself about $100 in labor charges from your local mechanic.

Where is this button? Look at it carefully. Does it actually say EAT?

the knock sensor is under intake, must remove intake and it is under two coolant lines.

the alternator is removed from below and there is three bolts (10 mm socket) that need removed. one of these bolts is on the other side of alternator. use a small mirror to see this bolt. Don't forget to disconnect battery!!!

He have 6 timing marks.3 on gear 3 on cover.first one is on the gear of the timing belt,it's just a small punch.aling between the other mark on the cover,small notch,on the compression of piston # 1.piston # 1 is on the back on passenger side.The other one is on the gear of the cam,small punch to aling with the small mark,it's on the back cover.third one same as the second one.

[---------------------------] [ 2 4 6 ] [ ] [ 1 3 5 ] ----------------------------- front of engine

First, remove the wiper arm and the shaft nut. Open the hatch and remove the interior panel. remove the three screws that secure the mounting plate for the motor and remove the whole assembly. Go to Nissan dealer for a replacement, it's cheaper and Nissan made it anyhow.

The front blower motor relay is located in the fuse panel by your left knee. When you remove the cover, you will find a fuse block and 5 relays on the right of the fuse panel. The front blower relay is the last relay on the bottom

I dont think you can. I believe they are part of the switch

For the '94, it is an OBD-1 system. The connector is located on top of the transmission, under the air intake hose, on the right side of the engine. There are three connectors, the one closest to the firewall, with three wires, is the OBD connector.

i just need to rewrite from the first answer I did early on March 3,05 (Thursday) Buy the manual how to fix the van they will tell you very thing you need to know. I try to fix water pump by myself takes so long for the first time. Firstable you have to drain all the coolant till it empty and then you have to remove all the belts alternator belt,Ac belt and water pump belt (mark all the belts what they for)after you removed all the belts and all the radiator hose that connect to thermostate 2 of them and than remove the timing belt cover off that's the fun part after you removed the timing belt cover off and then you can change the water pump also you have to remove the pulley off (the three pulley are on the bottom in order to remove the pulley off you have to use the impact gun with air compresser I tried one electrict gun it would not work) before remove timing belt cover. if you call the auto shop not cause you more than $250 take to them unless you have a lot of time to do by yourself (full day) the socket you will need are 8" 10" 12". any more question contact me at aaasian@wmconnect.com or at work nsurinrat@micron.com I hope this will help. one more thing me van is Nissan Quest gx and Mercury Villager both of them v6 they run timing belt and water pump belt not run same belt with timing belt.

In my experience , my villager would not shift from park to anything. Found a T20 or T25 torx screw under dash by steering column to be really loose on shifter linkage. Works great now!

it is located at your valve cover driver side on the end of the hose the pcv valve is pluged into the valve cover at the end of the hose you may have to use a screwdriver to pry it out of the hole. is it a straight blk hose the goes to the fuel rail

V-6 answer:

Standing at the licenst plate. Remove the plastic shroud on top of the engine (closest to you) and unbolt the metal box directly below it you can gain access to the front three. As for the back, remove the connector and screw at the 7 o'clock position off to the side of the dist cap. You CAN reach the back three with two 6 inch socket extenders and without remvoing any other engine parts. Should take 30 min regardless of experience. I just did mine and I'm not a mechanic (06/27/07).

Hey, I'm not sure if the answer involving removal of the valve covers, and appearently everything else in the engine compartment, is misleading on purpose but...... all you need to do on the 4 cylinder Cougar is pull the wires out by their bases and use a long exstension on your socket. I'm not sure what this guy was trying to do but I hope not too many people followed his advice!! The answer from Greg was exactly correct.

To remove the spark plugs, remove the covers and you will see how simple it really is. The spark plugs are hiding under the covers. Greg Hasen

Not only you will have to lift the covers, but to reach the back three you will have to remove the valve cover. Here's how to: 1. Remove the water pump belt cover (the black cover in the front of the engine compartment that has ?Duratec? on it.) If you have a 1996+ vehicle, you should think about removing it permanently, since it only serves to trap heat and slowly kill the IMRC box electronics.

2. Disconnect the following electrical connectors from the: MAF, IAT, TPS, IAC, and EVR. The EVR connector is black and is located at the very back of the upper plenum, next to the firewall.

3. Disconnect throttle cable from the TB and the cruise control cable, if equipped. For 1995 5-speed vehicles, take care not to lose the metal clip for the throttle cable when you are removing it. Once the cable is removed the clip will slide right off.

4. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the EVR. You may have to wait until the upper intake is unbolted and partially removed for better leverage.

5. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the top of the upper intake. Push down on the black plastic collar with a screwdriver and hold, and then pull the plastic line out of the intake.

6. Remove the air box along with the MAF and accordion tube.

7. Unbolt the throttle cable bracket from the upper intake (three 8mm bolts, one 10mm nut). Set bracket and attached cables aside.

8. Disconnect the air bypass hose at the upper intake. It connects right next to the IAC valve.

9. Disconnect the hose from the PCV valve that goes to the upper intake, underneath the throttle body. This is also a good time to change the PCV valve.

10. Unbolt the EGR valve from the upper intake.

11. Unbolt the upper intake. 12. Carefully remove the upper intake and set it on top of some clean rags or newspaper. It will likely be oozing some oily gunk out the bottom.

13. Cover the openings of the lower intake with clean rags to keep anything from falling into the openings. Anything that falls in will likely end up in the head or the cylinders themselves.

Now you are free to remove the back plugs. Jesus