Starters and Ignition Systems

The easiest way is to take it to a parts store where most of them will check them out free. It also helps if we know what kind of car you have. GoodluckJoe

turn your head lights on and try to start it if the headlights go out its more than likely your battery if they stay bright or barely dim its your starter

try the lights, do they turn on? if yes, then it probably isn't the battery. if its the starter motor, you should hear a loud clicking sound from the engine when you turn the key in the ignition. if this is the problem, turn the car off, open the door, stand on the sill at the side of the car while holding the edge of the roof and rock the car. if the car starts after this - its your starter.

If your starter was bad your car would not even crank. If its your battery the starter will click repeatedly.

The only way I can explain it is to follow the wiring from your coil pack (where the spark plugs are) and the wires plug into the ignition module. Also go go www.wrenchead.ca and it has a manual that explains all.

if you don't know the answer to a question please keep your moth shut ,please don't waste my time

2JZ-GE Engine # Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work. # Remove the engine undercover. # Turn the drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the drive belt from the engine. # Disconnect the generator electrical connector. # Remove the rubber cap and nut and then disconnect the alternator wire. # Disconnect the alternator wire clamp from the wire clip on the alternator. # Disconnect the A/T coolant hoses and bracket from the alternator by removing the bolt and pipe clamp. # Remove the alternator bolt, nut, pipe bracket and then remove the alternator from the engine. To install: # Install the alternator and pipe bracket. Torque the bolt and nut to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). # Install the A/T oil cooler pipes to the alternator and install the bolt and pipe clamp. # Connect the alternator wire clamp to the wire clip on the alternator. # Connect the electrical wire to the alternator and install the nut. # Install the alternator electrical connector. # Install the drive belt. # Install the lower engine cover. # Connect the negative battery cable. # Start the engine and check the charging system for proper operation

Bolt The Coil Bracket And Coil To The Block, The - Goes To The Distributor The + Hooks To The Ignition.

Remove it and bring to an auto parts store that is capable of checking it for opens, drag, and load draw

If the 95 is anything like the 90, the bolts are right on the flange type part of the starter, where the starter meets the transmisison. there is 3 bolts holding it in. they are most likely 13mm, 14mm, or 15mm bolts. but on some caravan models you have to remove the front transmission mount to get to it. this is probabally why you cant find em'. but you will have to remove the mount, then the starter bolts. then you have your starter out! but when you want to put the mount back in, you may need a floor jack to lift the engine/trans um into the right spot to put the bolt back through the rubber part. Tricky, but possible.

It's probably part of the starter itself. Look to see where the BIG positive wire from the battery goes. I'll bet it goes to a little cylinder that is part of the starter. This little cylinder is the relay and starter solenoid that engages the starter gear into the flexplate as it closes the relay to the starter to turn the engine over. TommyTrouble

It depends on what year. For 72 and earlier (in the dash) follow this. 1. Turn ignition switch to off position and leave the key in the switch. 2. Disconnect the battery. 3. Take a small dia. paper clip and insert it into the small hole in the face of the ignition switch. You will feel a small button that you depress. 4. While depressing the button, turn the key to the accessory position (counter clockwise) and using the key remove the cylinder. 5. You can now remove the bezel by unscrewing it CCW. 6. This will allow you to remove the ignition switch from the dash and disconnect the wire harness plug from the rear of the switch. I hope this helps someone. From an old gear head.

Fuel Pump

Fuel pump is a possible culprit. It can also be a clogged fuel filter or defective coil, etc. You need to determine what is missing of the 3 things needed for the engine to run. Fuel, Air, Spark. Once you do that you will know where to look.

If you stand facing the engine with the hood open. The starter is located on the left side of the engine. It will be difficult to see from the top. But can be seen if you remove the plastic cover on the right front wheel well, or if you were to remove the plastic panel underneath the car. If you stand facing the engine with the hood open. The starter is located on the left side of the engine. It will be difficult to see from the top. But can be seen if you remove the plastic cover on the right front wheel well, or if you were to remove the plastic panel underneath the car.

under the manifold, left side of the motor. 2 bolts is all you need to undo it. You may have to take some hoses off to get to it

On a 1993 Mazda Protege, neutral safety switch (also called the shift interlock switch) is located at the top of the brake pedal. It is situated between the headlight relay and the clutch switch.

Regarding a model 1997,2 liter sonata, there is not an ignition control module as such. Ignition control comes from the ECM (ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT) through the Ignition Power Transistor (often called Igniter) and then to the Ignition coil.I do not have any information on the 1.8 or the 3.0 liter models.

You remove the bolts, take off the old one and bolt on the new one.

My uncle had a 1992 sunbird and in order to change the starter on that one you had to take the front axle off and drop the starter out from the bottom because of the frame and cross over bars. Not sure if 89 would be exactly the same.

My daughter had one of those front drive cars. Rather than spend a lot of time on my back, I removed the head to get at it from above. I took the head in for service and wound up with a better car.

apparently the first person has no idea about the 89 turbos, the starter is under the multi port intake under the right side near the firewall, not a good take off bolt, replace job. I TOO would like to know from the gurus out here, do you take the passenger side wheel and axel off to get to the starter? Engine only has 52K Miles. Do not wish to remove anything i do not have to. Thanks!

All of the late-model Ford Rangers have a starter with a solenoid, and the older models have a remote starter solenoid. Both are covered. The remote starter solenoid is located on the passenger-side fenderwell. This means that a small-sized starter can fit in tighter locations. It also allows for a cheaper repair if just the solenoid goes bad.

EJ48315:

1. Remove the four screws out of the back of the steering wheel and pull off the front cover / airbag assembly.

2. After removing the nut / washer / sleeve use a steering wheel puller to remove the hub.

3. Remove the turn signal assembly, should be 2 screws this will expose the ignition.

4. Remove the screw that goes through the backside of the ignition and the ignition should come right out.

If the key is stuck in the off position, try pulling straight up with pliers. Do not bend or twist the key as it may break. If the key is stuck in the on position you will probably need to replace the key barrel. There are little tabs sticking out inside the barrel and the knotches on the key clear them when you turn the key. They are spring loaded and if the spring breaks or gets jammed, it will lock up the key. I have overcome the spring as mentioned with pliers. But you must be careful as the barrel could be up to about a hundred dollars and the key is another up to fifty bucks itself. If you break it, added costs. If you give the dealer your VIN number, they will order a barrel that matches your key.

Good Luck!

Sometimes a hard turn of the steering wheel will unlock the wheel and you'll be able to remove the key. I had to try this several times. It took 5-10 minutes. Breathe deeply and stay patient.

what i do, (on any older vehicle) is just follow the positive battery terminal from the battery to --->will ALWAYS end up at the starter. If you want to bump starter just to see if it works, then try and find the starter solenoid and see if you can't jump (use heavy gauge) a wire from there to the battery for a quick second. Be sure car is in park/neutral/not in gear and don't stand in front. Start should turn over. This basic principle has worked on many different cars for me when trouble shooting, OR, you could get yer trust INSULATED screwdriver and find the starter's hot wire and use the screwdriver to ground out so it will turnover. I don't use this method anymore however.! Hope this helps at least til someone answers for your specific car.

In this day and age of the computers there are no Separate Systems Par Say. if the original question pertained to any say 1997 to present GM car and/or truck There is a TSB ##01-07-30-002D That refers to this type problem, It pertains to: Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrumend Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) #01-07-30-002D - (Oct 19, 2004)Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) This bulletin is being revised to update model years, add additional models and 4L80/85 Transmission Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002C (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle). Condition Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON. The transmission is defaulted to second gear (4L80/85-E). The transmission is defaulted to third gear (4L60/65-E). The instrument cluster is inoperative. Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P0787, P0973, P0976, P1860, P2761, P2764 and P2769 may be set depending on the vehicle.CauseThe most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of voltage to the transmission on circuit 1020. This loss of power may be caused by an open in the ignition switch. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect the ignition voltage circuit between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, replace the ignition switch using the Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the applicable Service Manual. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage.If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse listed above is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of voltage at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections.NOTE! GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

No. Two separate systems.

An ignition switch might not operate if the transmission linkage or a transmission park solenoid or BTSI solenoid is defective.The most common cause apparently is spilled soda/beer on the console.

The starter for a 2000 Venture is near the front of the engine almost in line with the hood latch. Look just above the front cross member adjacent to the oil filter.

Hopefully this helps I wasn't able to import a pic so I tried to duplicate it the best I could. 1 2 6 7 8 13 3 4 5 9 10 11 12 14 15 1 Dome Light 10A 2 Headlight upper beam 10A 3 Fog Lights 15A 4 Tail Lights 10A 5 Hazard warning flashers 10A 6 Heater Fan 30A 7 Air Conditioning 8 Fuse (+B) 40A...battery 9 Ignition Switch 40A 10 Power Window Control 30A 11 Headlights 30A 12 Engine Control 20A 13 Altenator 80-1 100-2 14 Condenser fan motor 25A 15 Air Conditioning compressor 10A This is for 2.4, 3.0 & 3.5 liter engine models...99 Montero Sport

what kind of solenoid a shift or pressure control??

The starter is attached by 2 bolts.

First, unhook the battery.

Next, the thing to the left of the battery holder is the cruise control. You need to move that out of the way to give you room to work.

There are 2 bolts on the starter. Try to soak with WD-40 to loosen them up. If you can loosen both bolts with a wrench or rachet set, unhook all the wires attached to the starter and remember where they came from.

The new starter will bolt on the exact same way.

Reattach the wires and put back the cruise control and battery holder, as well as the battery.

These bolts could be stipped if you dont use high quality six sided cup. If they in the process they are stipped get Craftman extractor cups which work flawlessly and install new high grade bolts with washers. These extractor extract the bolt instantly and extremely easy.

== == Place SAAB in reverse gear to remove the key easily. The SAAB must be in reverse before you can remove the key, otherwise the battery will drain. It's a manufacture design.

REPAIRS BELOW, IF NEEDED:

Though you don't specify, it will be presumed that the key was inserted into the ignition switch and now will not withdraw. There were probably plenty of signs that this was imminent, such as difficulty inserting the key or the switch sticking in the START position. This is because dirt or sticky liquids often fall into the switch due to its location between the seats. (A safety feature, as the key will not jam into the driver's knee in a severe accident.) OTOH, the switch may have just worn out, as a 19 year old car is considered ancient by most terms. (I drive a 1987 Saab 900 with only 196K mi, and it runs better than most cars half its age.) First try squirting a penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench or WD-40 into the key slot. This may free up the mechanism enough to withdraw the key. If that doesn't work, you will need to remove the center console. Details may be found in any good Saab 900 manual, but in brief: 1) Remove the driver's seat (may need an Allen-head wrench).

2) Remove any screws/bolts holding the shifting machanism into place.

3) Using the special 3-lobed socket, remove the 3-sided nuts that hold the metal box that contains the ignition switch.

4) Clean or replace the old switch.

5) Reassemble.