Geo Metro

Standing in front of the car looking at the engine. Left to right 1-2-3-4

Inside the fuel tank Inside the fuel tank

You will need a computer scanner to read these codes, then a book or other source to determine what the codes mean Go to your local public library and see if they have a repair manual (Haynes or Chilton) for your vehicle available for checkout. OBDII system that requires a scanning tool to retrieve the trouble codes became mandatory in 1995. Prior to then, codes could be retrieved manually. If manual retrieval is available for your vehicle, the manual will instruct how to retrieve the codes and tell you what each code means. Another option would be to have the computer scanned at an auto parts store that scans as a free service.

the fuel pump is inside the gas tank

Could be the TPS, it will cause it to idle high and low and make the car become sluggish, but a vehicle will run without one, but it will run very rough.

I pull the hand brake 1 teeth which hopefully has no effect on engaging the worn brakes on rear drums of the car. Of course brake lights turns on on the dash panel. Hope that someone comes up with better answer.

the sticker under the hood says .038 autozone says .042

Look at the relay for the flashers, that should fix your problem.

I found that 55 mph is very efficient, and will give 45 plus mpg if your car is in good shape. Also something to keep in mind, a certain sensor sometimes will go in Geo Metros and the middle cylinder can become damaged, reducing efficiency and power greatly.

You've got a short in the circuit somewhere. Could be a bare wire around the starter or a short in the ignition switch.

Take it to a shop and pay for it to be done. Short of tearing the dash apart it is a nightmere. just spent four hours working on mine and let me tell ya it was horrible. not to mention we trashed the housing.

R12 unless it has been converted. I would convert it over to R134 due to the price of R12.

You'll have to remove your console first. Once you've done this, you should see a cable with a couple of nuts on it running along the console. Loosen these nuts and then pull the cable casing forward until the inner cable has no slack in it and then tighten both nuts. Just make sure to check that it's working properly before you put it all back together. If you have it adjusted right, you should be able to turn the key from accessory to the lock position and pull the key out. If not, you need to work on that cable adjustment some more. This is a safety feature and there's no way to override it.

Your fuel filter is located on the firewall under your brake master cylinder. Your PCV valve is either located in the intake manifold or in a hose between the valve cover and intake.

: I have a 91 Geo Metro LSi convertible my fuel filter is located on the driver side frame, about 1 foot in front of the fuel tank. It actually, is about right where the drivers door rear opening is. Follow that down, continue, under the car and it is located on the inside part of the frame. It is not hard to get to but you do have to get the left side up off the ground to work on it. Mine fastened with one bolt, holding a bracket that wrapped around the fuel filter. The work is supposed to take about 25 minutes at a repair shop. I do not know about the PCV valve. By the way the dealer says it takes 36 minutes to replace the plugs!!!! Must be the slowest car repair serviceman in the world

four and one half

Sounds like you need some new synchronizers. Sounds like you need some new synchronizers. Or have you tried adjusting the cable??

3/8 inch rachet fits plug,plug on side of transmission,oil should be half inch below plug.use straw or twist tie to measure.80 to 85 weight gear oil,90 might cause shifting problem.

Remove the window crank handle with a handle clip removal tool or reach behind the handle with a small pick and remove the clip.Remove the door pull screw access covers and remove the screws..remove the screws in the bottom of the armrest cop and remove it.using a forked door clip removal tool get behind the clips that surround the pirimeter of the door panel and pop them loose(now comes the hard part) with a pick or some tool that you can get behind the door handle outer bezel with, release the tabs and remove the door handle bezel..now with all the screws and clips loose you should be able to pull out on the panel and lift it off of the door.The springs will pop out of the door handle and you will swear its beoken ,but it isnt..just rember to put them back when you reassemble..The door handle bezel is a real bear but if you have patience and lots of beer you should be able to get the job done..

I don't know if the 1990 metro is the same as a 1996 metro, but there should be two screws under covered holes in the interior door handle. you should remove the caps by gently prying them off, and then you can undo the screws underneath. Also, the window crank needs to be removed.... see the earlier question about how to do this, because believe me, 3 door handles later...I finally got it....and then you should just be able to sorta kinda pry it off gently...... and once you've done that, you lift vertically to remove it from the window... hope this helps!

timing does not need to be set on the 1.3l engine in model year 1999 as it is a distributor less igniton system all timing is done by the ecm

You probably need to change the transmission fluid and filter. You don't say how many miles you have on this car but it's a recommended service at least every 50,000 miles.

The fuel filter will be located on the fuel line somewhere in between the engine and fuel tank on the underside of the vehicle, more than likely around the rear end.(look for a metal can with 2 metal lines coming out each end. Sorry i can't pinpoint the location. As far as the oxygen sensors, both will be mounted on the exhaust pipe. If it has two sensors, which i believe yours does, one will be mounted before the catalytic converter, and the other will be mounted after it. As far as cleaning, you can't clean any of them, they must be replaced. Be prepared to spend approx. $10 for the fuel filter, and Approx. $60-$70 for 1 oxygen sensor. By the way, it will NOT run better if you just unhook the sensors!! I hope I've helped..... I just got rid of my 1995 Geo Metro and it was a great car. Assuming you have a 3 cylinder with California emissions, the O2 sensor is right in the exhaust manifold and there is only one. You need to remove and replace the O2 sensor, not clean it. The fuel filter is up under the left side of the car in between the left rear suspension and the drivers door. You want to replace it also. It should be held to the body with a steel mounting bracket that is rusty and held on with a bolt. This can be a bugger. I suggest spraying the mounting bracket and bolt with WD40 and letting it soak a few minutes before trying to remove. Once you unbolt the bracket the whole bracket with the filter inside pops out of the car. Then you remove the filter from the bracket and fuel hose and install the new one. Reinstalling the bracket can be a little tight, but it will go back in. Also, make sure you remove the gas filler cap to relieve some of the pressure, it does make a difference. Good luck!

Look on both sides of the plastic housing and locate the plastic plugs. Push the center in lightly about 1/8 of an inch and then pry them out. Take the housing off, remove the 2 bolts you see and rotate the assembly towards the back seat.Now you should be able to reach in and pull the bulbs out.

Just remove the trim around it. You may have a couple of screws around the ashtray. Make sure to look for and remove all screws in the trim and then just pry the cover off. This should allow you access to the fan switch. It should be held in by a couple of screws. Those switch controls are just pushed on so they should pull off pretty easily. Once you get all of that out of the way, you should be able to see what you have to do. And no, they don't go out regularly, but any switch is capable of failure after 10 years of use.

As a matter of fact I've seen these switches fail in many metros....to be honest it is a poor design with a small steel ball sandwiched between plastic and copper. It does function as a variable speed switch but the ball can become caught when the plastic warms and cause switch failure. auto yard is the best place to find replacement and repair parts for these. fan switch is common throughout the metro/sprint years.

I agree with the poor design... if the existing switch is repairable... you can fashion a wire clip or strap to hold the back of the switch together... yes the heat and use will cause the plastic clips to fail and the spring will push the switch apart.

You will have to unplug the switch to get access... in order to avoid having to remove the vent cables you can unplug the switch and turn the assembly enough to pull it partially out of dash to get to the switch parts... be careful cause the ball is spring loaded.

First while the belt is tight, remove the bolts from the water pump pulley,drain the radiator then take the drivebelts off. Remove the timing cover and timing belt then remove the water pump bolts and be sure to remember which bolt goes where because they're different lengths. Pull the old pump off, clean everything up and put the new one on. Put it all back together. As long as you've got the timing belt off, inspect it carefully and replace it if it looks the least bit worn. That way you won't have to worry about it for another 60,000 miles.