Locks and Latches

Sometimes the linkage gets dry or binding and you have to remove the door panels and lube and free up the linkage.

Try using a spare key if that doesn't work you need a locksmith.

The battery in the key fob of a Toyota Sequoia is changed by using a coin to separate the two halves. The coin style battery can then be pushed out and a new battery put in.

A Mechanic.

The lock cylinder is held in by the chrome on the outside in the cylinder where the key goes in to turn it. from the inside if the door - the outer piece of the chrome (the ring) has a couple of 'fingers' that help hold it on - push it off from the inside so you can reuse it. you should be able to push the cylinder out from the door now.

Adjust the stricker whichever way it need to go.

A tire

you get a metal hanger bend it so its stright stick it through the plastic between the window and the medal and flip the lock up

Actually it is very possible to get a vapor lock type condition with a fuel injected engine. This is due in part to a combination of factors. Ethanol blended fuels combined with higher outdoor temperatures are the main reason. Usually ethanol alone is not the only reason though. A weak or partially clogged fuel delivery system compounds the problem. Fuel will not usually turn to vapor in the lines when it is kept under pressure. Check and compare your fuel delivery and psi to the specifications for the vehicle in question. If they are lower than what is specified,start checking the fuel system and try the simple fixes first such as replacing the fuel filter. If your delivery is still low then the most likely culprit is a fuel pump that is on its way out. If the pressure AND delivery are both good and this only presents a problem on start up, the probable cause is a device in the fuel system that is designed to keep fuel pressurized in the lines and is faulty. This is referred to as an anti drain back valve in some cars ,but may be called something else in different models. A quick way to check this is to pressurize the fuel rail by starting the vehicle while you have a fuel pressure gauge attached to it. Turn the vehicle off and watch the gauge. If it starts creeping down steadily until virtually no pressure or very little is left then there is your problem. Unfortunately you cant always replace just this component. It is usually sold as part of a fuel pump replacement assembly.

In this case access can usually be gained through the inside of the vehicle by removing the back section of the rear seat. Depending on make and model of vehicle will determine wheater a screwdriver or a precise tool will be required to internally turn the boot lock mechanism.

You have to remove the door panel and it will be just under the out side door handle.

I did not have a "popping sound". That might mean its a cable. Rather, my key would not turn. This happened to me today on my 97. I had to let down the rear passenger seats, climb in the truck, remove the trim screws on the truck lid, push the liner back, and use a screwdriver to release the latch--it was at where a little green tab was near the upper part of the latch mechanism. Then the lock still did not work. The lock is now at the locksmith for repair. I'll post tomorrow to say if this worked. I suspect it would be not too expensive to have a bodyshop do this if you don't feel like it. Actually, a body shop suggested I give it a try. Best, David

I had to do this on my 97 Ford Explorer a month ago or so. It's easy. You should be able to go through the grill from the outside and unscrew the four bolts or so on the hood release mechanism (reassuring huh?) From there, lift the hood and the latch mechanism should come out with the hood. Detach the cable from the latch mechanism(if your cable is fine, you're in great luck) Take the latch to a junkyard and find one that looks similar(same position of bolt holes, and latch) Attach the cable to the new latch, attach the new latch to your car, it might take a while positioning it so it lines up right but I did it myself for only fifteen bucks.(cost of latch at junkyard from a different pickup).

You need to replace the pins. Although answer 1 is not incorrect, it may not be necessary to make the drastic move of removing and replacing the hinge pins. Usually the reason for replacing hinge pins is excessive wear of the pins, and also usually if the pins are THAT badly worn, so also are one or both of the hinge brackets through which the pins pass. This condition dictates total replacement of the entire hinge. BEFORE REPLACING ANYTHING, I suggest trying to ADJUST the door/hinges. The door hinges are bolted to the door post with 3 to 4 bolts or large screws per hinge. Try adjusting by: 1. Open the door, and locate the hinges and examine the area right around the hinge. Sometimes, if the hinges have "slipped," you can see an "outline" showing where the hinge WAS located. Visual confirmation of slippage not withstanding, continue this adjustment procedure. 2. With the proper tool [a wrench, or a screwdriver] LOOSEN[only] the bolts or screws [all fasteners] on both hinges. Only loosen JUST ENOUGH to allow [when the door is almost closed, to within an inch or two of the latch post]to be lifted into proper alignment in the opening and with the strike/guide. 3. While holding the door at the proper elevation, carefully open it just enough to retighten the fasteners. There WILL be a tendency for the door position to shift on you, possibly requiring several attempts. However, with patience, you may be able to readjust the door, and prevent the need to replace the pins and/or hinges.

Whether or not you can repair it yourself depends mostly on what is wrong. You would have to do a little looking around first. It may be as simple as a sticking trunk latch, or the whole trunk cover may need adjustment if it has been in an accident recently. Whatever the cause there is a pretty simple solution. If there is no actual visible damage to tre trunk lid (dents, twisted, or otherwise damaged to the extent of not closing) then this is really a quick and easy fix. Before you take anything apart, open the lid and check th make sure the trunk latch is open. If you're not sure what the trunk latch looks like it is usually on the inside of the lid itself (unless the key-hole is on the rear panel on or between the lights.) In either case the fix is the same.

Tools you will need: A metric socket set and a ratchet (or a wrench set), a screwdriver, a pair of pliers

1. As I said, first you must locate the latch itself. Opposite of the latch is the striking pin. In your car it looks like a sort of U-shaped metal hook. This is what will hold the trunk lid closed. As this pin is inserted to the lock a small armature inside the latch hooks around the pin to secure it.

2. Place your keys into the key hole, and grab the screwdriver. Use the screwdriver to see if the latch is closing by holding the screwdriver horizontally and pushing it into the latch as if it were the striking pin. If the latch closes, Your striking pin may be a bit off, or the latch may not be staying closed. (Farther investigation will help determine whether the latch needs replacing.)

3. If your screwdriver closes the latch use the key to unlock the latch and lift the screwdriver out. If the screwdriver will lift out without using the key, you will need to replace the latch.

4. If there is a trim panel on your trunk around the latch it may need to be removed. They are usually held in by a series of plastic pins that just push into place and can usually re removed by pullung firmly, but be careful not to damage the trim. There may also be a plastic panel that may need to be unscrewed with a Phillips head screvdriver before pulling the liner trim.

5. After removing the liner you will notice two or three bolts where the latch is. Use a sharpie to mark the exact location of the latch mechanism and remove the bolts. (If you have a manual trunk release - usually with a lever beside the seat - or an electric release button you will need to disconnect it. The electric will simply unplug using the small "release button" on the plug then separating the two. The manual release cable can be tricky on some models. Just remember where everything is - even if you need to take a picture with a digital camera to reference later during re-installation.

6. I usually go to the junkyard for parts like this, because you can remove them yourself before doing your own car to get a feel for things, and if something gets broken there are usually more cars to choose from. Follow the directions for removal as described above. But first be sure that the latch is the same as yours. (If its painted a different color than yours, it doesn;t matter because it will be hidden anyway.) Check to see if it has the same release as yours does inside the car. If it does, do the same test as before to check if the latch is good. as long as it holds your screwdriver tightly its a good latch. there may not be keys with the new latch, but that's ok because you will not be using these parts of the lock anyway.

7. If you want a new latch, you will need to know what type(manual, electric release, or no release)when ordering.

8. once you have all the parts you need, begin re-installing the latch. Follow the directions above in reverse for installation. Be sure when mounting latch that you line up to the mark you made, or the striking pin may not meet with the latch properly.

my switch went out leaving my trunk in the "up" position as the motor never activated to pull it down, but the motor was still fine.

Instead of replacing it i just used two "jump wires" as in wires with alligator clips on both ends and i applied power just long enough to lower to the desired position to keep dust and water out of my trunk you may find this cheaper then replacing it.

if that doesn't work putting in a latch u bolt in place of the motor is possible but a little know how may be required to convert it with lining it up in proper placement etc.

install a new latch

The reason is because the cable connecting to the latch has already been over stretched. Changing a new cable should rectify your problem.

"pop" the hood with the in car lever. get a pair of pliars and grab the wire that the plastic hood release was connected to.....this should work!

because when the grand wizard locks you out you are screwed.

Check fuses and fuse block for loose connections

Its A security thing, I am not sure what is going on but It is A program or failure, If you call the dealership and talk to service they can likely tell you how to fix it over the phone. Also read the owners manual, It will likely have the fix in the "security" section. I really do not believe that there will be A need to replace any parts.

That usally means that someone used a slim-jim 2 try & open a LOCKED Door.U have 2 pull off the inside door panel & replace or reconnect the linkage that has come off,& any clips that were broken.

Might be in reference to the auto-lock feature. That has been known to irritate some people.

The Owners Manual will cover the procedures.

See "Related Questions" below for free links to downloadable Owners Manauls