VW Jetta

your local library may have a free shop manual to peek at.. good luck Dave

pink g12

I found that I would have trouble starting the truck , rough idle and poor fuel mileage , there is a product on the market that will clean the sensor. CRC makes it and it's called MAF cleaner , about $6.oo , good luck. Terman

The solenoid electrical sensor is responsible for allowing a shift in gears. The sensor in a Jetta VR6 can be fixed by a dealer mechanic.

I have a 1991 E350 and the fuses are under the dash drivers side. Cruise control fuse is labelled in owners manual. My fuse is good and my cruise is not working. I do not get the "cruise" light to come on either. I am going to check the steering wheel spider as suggested somewhere else. Its accessible by removing two bolts in back of steering wheel(?). Repeating what I saw on another question. Be sure to disconnect battery and wait 5 minutes to prevent air bag from deploying before removing bolts. I have already checked the actuator arm to the fuel injection system and it is not broken and looks as if it is OK.

check the starter its located on the passenger side just beneath the floorboard. two bolts, two wires tricky to get out, but when you do take it to any auto parts store and have them run a test on it, that should remove any doubt as to rather or not you need a starter. i would say you do, but hey it could be alot worse but i doubt it.

Can be improper level.

5w40 or 5w30

It depends on what you mean by "it won't start." Some additional questions/answers will help narrow down the problem. Does the starter crank the engine? Is it out of gas? (I had a vehicle whose fuel sensor failed in the FULL position, so we drove it until it ran out of gas but the gauge said it was full. I didn't realize it until we dropped the gas tank and it was extremely light-weight.) Is the fuel pump bad? (This can be checked by removing the fuel line at the engine, feeding the line into a container to catch the gas, and cranking for a brief instant; if fuel comes out, the pump is probably OK.) Various sensors, if bad, will also prevent starting. One notorious sensor for causing this problem on VW's is the crank position sensor. Typically when this sensor is going bad, the engine will stall soon after reaching normal operating temperature, or you will be unable to re-start the engine if the engine is still hot; for example, you take a trip to the store, and you come back out and it won't start. Let the engine cool down, and it starts promptly. If this is the case, try replacing that sensor.

First P0301 relates to a problem with Cylinder 1 (301, 301=cyl2 303=cyl3 304=cyl4)P0301 can be caused by many of the items identified in the books and on the web. Items such as spart plugs, spark plug wire, Coil tower and/or related ECM. cylinder compression, IntakTPS, MAF, fuel enjector and related intakcomponents, and EGR and items related toexhaust. It is a good idea, regardless of what I'm about to tell you below, to check and make sure everything I mentioned above is in good working order. After spending hours (about 7)assuring the above and ending up very frustratedbecause P0301 reappeared after a few short rides,later that night I got back on the web/internet to search for something new. I came across an append that talked about P0301 and this poor fellow also had4 or 5 other codes. I almost skipped overreading this one because Iassumed there were to many problems and I did not want to chase any more false leads. Being desperate, I read on.In the middle of his append he talked about using a spray product like PB Blaster and spraying it on the intake manifold gasket. If there was a leak the idle/RPMs would change. Becausemy car was running fine (except for the P0301 code) I assumed it couldn't be this, and I read on. Ithen though, wait a minute. This is avery simple test to perform (less than 5 minutes) what the hell, let's do it. Guess what... The idleincreasedabout 300 RPMs then. I repeted the test (sprayed several times) and the idle increased each time I sprayed around Cyl 1 area of the intake gasket. This was the first positive indication of a real problem I found. It took about45 minutestoseperate (not remove) the intake manifold from the cylinder head and sure enough the gasket had a major brake (about 1/8") atCYL 1 intake. I went to my local Advanced Auto, ordereda new gasket and the nextmorning installed it (being very sure to first snug downthe intake nuts and thentorque them downto 14 "inch" pounds in rotation starting from the center and working my way towords both ends. When this was done. P0301 went away andnow (about a month later) the car is running excellent. I drive itevery day and have taken it on one trip of 250 miles out and back (500 miles). So be sureEVERYTING mentioned is in goodorder but BE VERY SURE you don't overlook vacume leaks at the INTAKE MANAFOLD GASKET. It's a simple 5 minute test.

In accounting, the trial balance is a worksheet listing the balance at a certain date, of each ledger account in two columns, namely debit and credit. Under the double-entry system, in any transaction the total o In accounting, the trial balanceis a worksheet listing the balance at a certain date, of each ledger account in two columns, namely debit and credit. Under the double-entry system, in any transaction the total of any debits must equal the total of any credits, so in a Trial Balance the total of the debit side should always be equal to the total of the credit side. The trial balance thus serves as a tool to detect errors, which can result in the totals not being equal. Often credits will be represented as a negative, in which case the total of the trial balance should be 0. f any debits must equal the total of any credits, so in a Trial Balance the total of the debit side should always be equal to the total of the credit side. The trial balance thus serves as a tool to detect errors, which can result in the totals not being equal. Often credits will be represented as a negative, in which case the total of the trial balance should be 0. Regrading Naila_samina Abbasi Students of MBA

right side of engine under all that stuff you see and while you are there might as well change the timimg belt. approx. 6 hrs by a pro

--- Well, I'm no pro so it took me longer than 6 hours. A couple good things to note though. You will need to make a special tool out of some angle iron in order to hold the harmonic balancer in place while removing the main crankshaft bolt. The balancer is cast so don't pry against the center ridge; it will break.

The water pump lives behind the timing covers (3 parts if I remember). I heavily recommend replacing the timing belt since it has to come off anyway. While removing the belt and the water pump, try not to accidentally bump the cam shafts. With the preasure from the valve springs, they are spring loaded to turn to one side or the other. Once the camshafts have been moved, it is possible to set them back to center but not very easy.

When replacing the timing belt, as always, it has to sit perfect on the teeth of all three gears(2 cams & 1 crank).

One problem I had after the repair was complete was it kept throwing serpentine belts. I found the power steering pump was mounted and tigntened to the block before the bracket. The bracket bolts should be tightened first then the block bolts.

I would check my distributer cables to see if they look worn or cracked. It's an easy $8 or so fix. Just remember which wire goes where. Color coded markers help with this. Also, check the cap. That's a little more expensive it's cracked

Because Volkswagen does not care about it's customers anymore. There is even a petition about the crazy rev hang.

http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/petition-volkswagen-rev-hang-rpm-hang/

They are located usual;ly on the intake manifold somewhere. If you own a 1.8T model, it is on the intake manifold near the Throttle Body.

your best bet is 25'' ('' is inches)

i had the same problem. but guess what a 99 jetta doesnt have a dipstick for the tranny fluid it has a sealed lifetime transmission fluid. so you dont have to worry about it. i was going to change it and the mechanic asked "are you sure you want to do that?" i chuckled and asked why and he said that its like 400 dollars to change the fluid. i then choked and walked out the door. lol hope that helps

The Main Shaft Speed Sensor is also known as a NM speed sensor. This sensor is mounted on the front passenger side of the transmission facing the radiator. It is basically a magnet that helps control how soft or firm the transmission shifts. If your transmission shifts hard or with a jerk, then chances are you NM sensor is either dirty or has gone bad. Remove the NM (main shaft) speed sensor by unplugging the wiring connector and loosening the 10mm bolt on the transmission. Twist the actual sensor back and forth while sliding it out of the transmission. Once out, take a rag and see if it is dirty--it is a magnet and sometimes metal or other debris can get in the way and make it not work. Clean the NM sensor, blot it back in, plug in the connector. Take the negative terminal off the battery, remove the radio (backup) fuse from the under hood fuse panel. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes, then reinstall fuses and connect battery. Start it up. If there is still a hard jerk when shifting, it's time for a new NM speed sensor.

The MAF ( Mass Air flow) sensor is located right on the intake pipe. Can't miss it.

Pry the Velcro up from the trunk lid side of the panel.Open the door to the CD player if you are doing the left side. Pinch the tabs in the center and pull back slightly. Then you have to fiddle with getting the brake bulb past the trim.

You have to lift plastic cover where the emergency brake set into.There will be two nuts,which you either loosen or tighten.

Its actually a torex head you need... not sure of size yet. Its a T-50 Torex.

Pull the rubber boot off of you wire harness between the drivers door and the car. When your door is fully open the wires are stressed because of being so short. Very poor system Check for broken ones,or close to being broken.Good luck

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have ever pressed the "PROGRAM" button already (like when you realized it wouldn't work, but before you found these directions), you have to disconnect the car's battery to kill the power to the engine and START ALL OVER. Also, if the above sequence doesn't work out, disconnect the car's battery and try again. You might guess, if your car's battery dies (completely), you will have to reprogram your BOA 165-B just like new. Print these directions for future use--I wish I had!