VW Jetta

On a standard tranny there is no reservoir. On an automatic tranny it is internal to the tranny. The fluid resides in the transmission pan.

This is a bit off topic, but only due to the resonse below. FYI on the hand brake: Do NOT drive with that hand brake in the 1 click up position!! VW has a major problem with rear brake pads wearing out on the side of the car with the caliper that has the emergency brake cable attached. If you own a Jetta, you will wear out that set of pads very quickly, and the other side will be like new. Take your car to a local mechanic who will not force you to replace the brakes on both sides of the car, and keep the new spare pads (that would have been for the other side) for the next time. I drive 50,000 miles a year, and have replaced the pads in the rear on the one side 4 times now, and on the other side.... zero!!! And yes, VW has confirmed the cable is adjusted correctly. They have a problem with their Em brake over-adjusting. This is all over the Jetta message boards. Most dealers will not help you with this issue.

And, if the car is rolling with the computer seeing the EM brake is on, I'm not sure if it would like that. Probably just a warning light though.

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Well on the 2008 Jetta if you put the Parking Brake (HandBrake) on, then they go off. This is useful if you are just sitting in your car in the Parking Lot (Car Park) It only takes one click to work so there is a good chance the Brake is not even engaged so you could drive that way, up to you it's your car. Also, there must me a switch in there somewhere so try removing the center console around the Hand Brake and I bet you'll find this little switch. Either stick something on it to keep it engaged or if possible connect the wires together. I know someone will tell me how wrong this is, but it's my car and having the headlights on all the time surely makes them burn out quicker and since it is taking current from the battery that has to be charged by the Altenator then having them off must save some Gas (Petrol)

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On a 2005+ Jetta, the only way to disable the lights is by modifying the computer CAN BUS. The dealer can do this. A vagcom can do it, too. It is a device that allows you to change the car programming.

As of 2008, there is no law requiring the use of daytime running lights. If the dealer tells you otherwise, they are lying.

Now, for a good chuckle and some reading that in no way shape or form actually answers your question, keep reading what someone else wrote.

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IF the car was equipped with them, you should NOT dis-able them. They are a vital part of the safety equipment on the car. Would you disable the brake lights? How about the seat belts, would you take them out of the car?

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The last answer is a bad correlation between safety and the dtr lights, especially since there is no evidence to show that dtr lights really prevent accidents. Anyway, I have a 06 jetta as well and wanted to disconnect the dtr lights as well. The only info I found was to use a VAG-com to reprogram the computer not to turn them on. Since mine is a lease I decided not to do it.

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Obviously, as an a American, you haven't been driving in a country like mine, where we have had DRL on ALL vehicles since about 1990. EVERY car truck and van has them, so it isn't looked upon as a BAD thing, here, and visiting American drivers DO remark about how much MORE visible all the vehicles are HERE, If a car is more visible, it is LESS likely to be invoved in an accident, especially in bad weather conditions.

It is NOT about being able to see, it is about BEING seen.

Think about what methods Police officers use , to get a driver's attention during a emergency run ? Flashing headlights, Right ? The human eye is drawn to light sources, naturally.

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No one here is saying they are a bad thing. What some drivers want is the ability to shut them off. There are times when one would want the headlights off, and VW does not give you that option if the car is running. And, please. Comparing seat belts and brake lights to DRL's? Really?

Examples:

You are parked somewhere with the engine running... at night......and you don't want to flood or blind something with 400 watts of light. Ever been to a drive in theater?

You want to drive during the day in GOOD weather conditions without replacing your headlights every year.

You live in the Northern US, where, if you are caught on the highway in a snowstorm, you need to shut off your headlights (and/or switch to low fog lights) at night in order to see. Headlights on = can't see 6 inches in front of you from light blinding you off of the snowflakes. Lights off = seeing clear tire track lanes in the snow. And no, you do not just stop on the highway in a snowstorm. And yes, I'm serious. Find someone who lives in Erie, PA and ask them.

How about this: You want to drive legally. I was driving home through West Virginia one day at high noon, and I had one DRL/headlight that burned out during my trip. Now, headlights are not required during the day, unless your wipers are on, so I would have shut my lights off if I could. I passed a State Trooper who wasted my time and the government's by writing me a ticket for it. Thanks VW! I might add, the light wouldn't have been burned out if VW didn't burn them 24/7. (I got out of that ticket by, get this: In WV, the law prohibits more than one operating auxiliary lamp in the front of a vehicle. So since headlights running during the day are auxiliary, I was actually legal by having one burned out. Talk about a ticked off cop in court. That's really the law. Look it up.)

DRL's are good, but let me shut them off when needed, thank you. The world has waaaaaaaaaay too many people deciding for us what's best for us.

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I agree that they are a safety feature...but where I live we have great city lights. The problem is that when someone leaves a mall or store at night the drl illuminate and many drivers feel they have their lights on. Well drl are only on the front of the vehicle while the rest of the car is in the dark. I feel that is we are going to sailor proof our vehicles...we need to make them impervious to "all" the idiots that are out there.

Spray some good penetrating oil on it and then let set for a while. It will break up the rust with time. Put some inside the lock also. After you get it freed up then spray a good silicone spray in it to keep it from rusting up again. Good luck.

On the older cars with studs or rivets holding the moulding to the car, I use strong fishing line. I snake it behind the moulding and snap it off carefully. Wear gloves so you don't hurt your hands....

Go to www.installdr.com its where i got the diagram for my 92 sundance

it's your alternator I just had the same problem its going dead causing it to use most of the battery power

Its located either behind the glove box or just underneith it

Your oil pump is located at the bottom of your motor just underneath the oil pan. you will have to remove the oil pan to get at the oil pump. make sure that if you are going to take the oil pan off replace the oil pan gasket. please remember to drain the oil before taken the oil pan off. I would recomend cleaning the oil pan out while you have it off and you can also add a magnet inside your oil pan to collect any harmfull metals that might wind up in your oil or you could buy a drain plug that is magnetic.

id check, but i thought there was a recall on that problem. id call the dealer and give them the last 8 of the vin number and see.

My Chilton's manual says to drop the front crossmember holding the front drive axle ! You will also need to remove the front driveline from the front drive axle ! Chilton's book #68602 !

could you display a diagram of a timing chain for vw polo 1.2 12 valve

There are generally three types of clips that attach to or contact with brake pads. 1) Wear sensor: This is a small piece of metal which will touch the rotor and cause a squeal noise when your pads need to be replaced. 2) Pistons Clip: This clip is usually riveted to the steel back of a brake pad and it fits into the piston(s) for the caliper. This helps pull the pad away fromt he brake rotor when not applying the brakes. 3) Pad Retraction Clips: These are many different types and designs, but generally they hold the pads away from the rotor when the brake is not applied. This is mainly to prevent cyclical rotor wear which will end up producing "Brake Judder" and pulsation of the brakeing system when stopping. Real annoying!

Trouble code P1281 means: Cooling System Performance

On the drivers side, at the left side end of the steering wheel there is a compartment which houses the fuses. You need a flathead or strong fingernails to pop the cover off and access the fuses. There are also some fuses and relays under the hood, just above the air filter box.

If a will has "come out of probate" then the testator must have died and the will was allowed. It cannot be changed.

how do you remove the rotors?

Removing the front rotors was no problem on my 2005 Hyundai Elantra. The Elantra has two recessed Phillips screws holding each rotor to the hub. Spray the screws with PB penetrating fluid (available at most auto parts stores) and let soak as directed. Then use a hand impact tool (available at most hardware or tool stores) and hammer to break the screws loose without stripping the Phillips slot. The impact tool has a Phillips screw driver bit on the end of a hand held metal shaft. With the bit in the screw and the tool set to counterclockwise direction, smack the end of the impact tool a time or two with a hammer. The impact will break the screw free. Then remove both screws with a screw driver. After removing the screws, the rotors came right off.

Diesel is a gas and gas makes you fart big time.

check the owners manual or the easiest way is to go to your local autozone and use their scanner tool to reset the light

It is important to maintain the fluid levels of a vehicle. A person adds power steering fluid for this car into the power steering reservoir under the hood under the lid labeled power steering.

Nothing Nothing

if i am not mistaken an xp machine is only a 2 seater, if you want to tow leagaly you have to have a spot for the operator,spoter and tube rider. i pull my tube with an 02 gti with only 85hp. your xp has about 130hp? if you want to tow i don't see a problem but watch out for the water cops. HAVE FUN AND TUBE SAFE!!!

You have to take the motor out!

Hi there, Im so sorry to hear about your vw jetta going down the pan - ive been through this myself and you know what they say - a vw lost is a vw lost! Im afraid theres not much i can do - could it be out of petrol?

there should be a reservoir powered by a belt with a cap in the front of the engine

There is no Freon in the system. If it needs R134 refrigerant then it has a leak that needs to be repaired. Take it to a professional with the knowledge and tools to repair this unit. the question was where do you add freon on a ford focus---taking it to a shop is not the question----where do you add freon under the hood ? The answer is A 2002 FOCUS DOES NOT USE FREON, so you cannot add any. Other than the obvious "your auto doesn't use freon" the answer is REALLY. That many mistakenly call all refridgerant "freon". It isn't. You can top-off your system easily. Go to an auto parts retailer and get an "AC Tune-up" product (Igloo and Interdynamics) markets them. It is usually a can of 134a with a short hose. On your AC system hoses you will see two screw-on plastic caps. One red and one blue. The blue is the low (service) side and the hose attached to the can will only fit the low side. Remove the blue cap, snap the hose onto the fitting and turn on the AC to MAX. Start the engine and introduce the 134a. The system will only take the amount it needs. If you have to do this repeatedly, have the system checked by a professional,,,,,Mark K ,,,,Raleigh, NC ==Answer == By the way, the part where you connect the hose(s) is right in front of the passanger tire,behind the tire well,remove the hex screw(use a small flat screwdriver,it does the trick) and you will see a round can with a cap on top of it, THIS IS WHERE YOU ADD REFRIGERANT TO THE SYSTEM!