Car Starting Problems

this is normal, when the car is cold or off. the oil sinks down in to the oil pan.,.

If this is a GM engine you may be using an aftermarket oil filter that allows oil to drain back this is not a good thing and can cause engine damage. GM has a TSB on this very problem.

I know a few people with 2001 1.8t with the same issue. Try having the ECU updated.I had this done cause they told me there was new version to resolve this issue and other issues too.Issue was resolved after update. LOCal dealership should be able to do this.It ranges in cost my was $104 for the update. If it's an automatic transmission, I had a similar problem where it seemed like it didn't want to shift. It turned out to be a speed control sensor that was going bad. I warmed my jetta up a couple mins before it started to shift correctly. Try checking that.

This engine is fuel injected and does not have an old style choke. Take it to a shop and have them look at it. Not a job for a novice.

follow the battery negative cable to it's other end and, voila, there is your ground.

We are having the same problem with my daughters 1999 sunfire, it turns over runs 2 seconds , it appears to be anti theft device ,if you wait ten minutes and try it again it will start,but not sure on how to disable the device , no help as yet,but after 10 minutes it re-sets itself and will start, if that is your problem .

The ignition switch

ECU

Fuses

or The main relay

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This is a can of worms! Thankfully I just opened it myself after swapping the engine in my 93!

Firstly, check the main grounding cables in the engine bay. The most prone to failure is the one that goes to the thermostat housing, but check the others too.

Next check all your fuses and relays, information on this is available at almost every Honda forum - the Main Relay is a common failure.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/a/hon_mnrelay_tst.htm

http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/a/honda_hot_start.htm

If the engine is turning over but not sparking you may have a problem with your fuel delivery or distributor cap - in my case I simply swapped the cap and rotor arm with a known working one - it didn't solve my problem :|

I then took the fuel delivery hose from the rail, popped it into a clear food bag and had a friend crank the engine - no fuel... He cranked it 8 times and no fuel...

Suddenly though there is no more check engine light... back to the ground cable tests.... All were fine, but to make sure I removed them all, added a little solvent to each point, put some copper grease on the terminals and bolted them back in.

Turned the key and the fuel pump audibly worked... one more click and vroohoom.... my lovely Honda roared the roar of the angry.

Could be in need of a tune up... carb and timing adjustment. New plugs,wires,rotor, dist cap.Tune ups are needed on a regular basis ussualy once a year depending on the amount of miles you put on the car? The charging system sounds o.k but tune up may be in order.

Defective ignition switch or tumbler dirty or defective. Start by spraying a good electrical cleaner inside the key tumbler. Work it back and forth.

May be a defective ignition control module, or coilpack. I had a bad ignition switch that was cutting power to the fuel pump, when it does this listen for the fuel pump to come on before restarting. I have a 2000 Intrigue. I had the same problem and it was a crank case sensor. You might get a cheap fuel pressure gauge and hook it up. See what the fuel pressure reads when the engine dies (do this in the driveway). If the pressure is dying, try a new fuel filter. Answer Ignition switch

There could be many reasons including the spark plugs may be worn or not gapped properly if the car does not idle right, faulty spark plug wires, vacuum leaks, incorrect ignition timing, incorrect compression ratio. The culprit could also be the EGR valve or plugged PCV valve, fuel pump not delivering fuel properly, timing chain worn. I would suggest get the car check out.

Had the same problem my coil had a split in the bottom of it grounding out on top of the block go look under the hood on the passenger side @NIGHT AND LOOK FOR YOUR LIGHTNING

It might sputter and sound like it is trying.

Is this a starter solenoid? If so, it's pretty easy just remove the starter. The solenoid is mounted on the starter, to remove it from the starter there are two screws one on each side of it and then remove the grounding screw from the terminal and twist the solenoid until it pops away from the starter by the force of the spring inside. Just reverse this procedure to install the new solenoid. Note: When tightening nuts and screws on the wiring end of solenoid, make sure you just snug them tight, don't overtighten which can crack and bust the plastic cap around the terminals. Estimated time at home. approx. 1 to 2 hours total.

If you are driving along an press down on the accelerator and the engine RPM's increase faster than your speed{MPH}, that is an indication of a slipping clutch. That might be able to be adjusted unless you have a hydraulic cluth actuator. If your clutch is hydraulicly actuated and the afore mentioned slipping occurs, then your cluth is worn uot and needs replacing. If there is a lot of chattering and or wierd noises happening when you operate the cluth, then possibly your throw-out bearing is bad. If this is bad, it only makes sense to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate at the same time since all three are inside the clutch bell housing that is between the back of the motor and your transmission. Sometimes you can buy a kit that has all the items necessary in one group for one price and then contract with a mechanic to install them for you therefore saving some money.

check the crank and or cam sensor, the problem was the crankshaft sensor

Doesn't have one.

Cars used to use a 6volt coil connected in series with a Ballast resistor that lowered the 12 volt to 6volt to prevent coil burnout. During start-up, 12 volts would be applied to the coil through an additional direct 12 volt wire that bypassed the Ballast resistor. This assured an optimum spark when the large current drain from the starter lowered the battery voltage to something significantly lower than 12 volt. On the General Motors vehicals such as your S-10 this direct 12 volt wire came from the starter R terminal which becomes energized when the switch in the solinoid makes contact. I believe that these Ballast resistor systems pretty much went away when vehicals went to electronic ignition, however don't quote me on that. In your case, if there wasn't a wire already connected, then ignore it. Your starter probably fits many older vehicals that still use the R terminal. If you want to play, you can verify the working of this terminal by connecting a test light from the R terminal to ground. During Start/Cranking the light should light. Good Luck Rick Rohwer

Make sure your connnections are tight on your battery. Make sure the ground wire is secure. Also, make sure the positive connection is secure on the starter, & check all other connections to the starter, check for bad wires going to the starter. Also, check all of your fuses. Be sure to check ALL grounds. The battery's and the engine's. The engine has two, or more. The starter has it's own. The battery's, of course. Sometimes oil and grime get in between the ground wires and it's posts on both the battery, and engine. Also, check the straps that connect the engine to the chassis. Some positive cables will incorporate a fusible link coming from the battery.....check. These tips are if there is no power even to your lights. If it's just your ignition, then that's a little more complicated.

there is a control module under your dist cap try that they seem to have problems with that I don't think it's the fuel pump. If you try to jump-start the car and it starts fine then it's definitely not the pump. case 1: If you turn the key and nothing happens (the starter doesn't crank the engine), and after a few minutes (up to about 30) it cranks without effort, then it may be a faulty starter solenoid. It's located on top of the starter, very close to the exhaust manifold and thus getting lots of heat. Change the solenoid or get a remote solenoid and locate it in a colder place. case 2: If you turn the key and nothing happens or the starter cranks the engine with great effort, and after cooling down it cranks at normal speeds, it may be a worn starter. Rebuild the starter.

if you mean it doesnt crank long enough to start you probably need a battery. i suspect that the battery is dead because it takes so long to start. long crank times on these engines is usually caused by a bad cold start injector (found in the intake plenum on the passenger side, it has a small diameter steel fuel line and a 2 wire plug connected to it. held in place by 2 10mm screws) or the cold start injector time switch (found in the back of the engine behind the intake plenum, it sits in an aluminum casting that holds other water temp sensors and has a blue plug with 2 wires on it). replace these 2 items and you should be fine as far as hard starting goes.

Fuel pump could be shot. The reason it will run after it has burned all the fuel that has been dumped into it, could possibly be caused by vacuum; as the engine is running the throttle body is actually pulling fuel from the tank, through the fuel line, through the fuel filter and dumping it into the engine. This is BAD, your throttle body was not designed for this. Check your fuel pump. (usually if you turn your key on but don't start the car you can hear the fuel pump prime the engine)

Anything and everything electronic. Does it have the Engine Control Module under any of the seats. If so, it will prob. need replaced if water got to it. Contrary to what people believe, they aren't waterproof, just water resistant.

The meter slot fuse contain Gauges, warning temp, interlock emerency relay, inhibitor switch, A.S.C.D, E.C.C.S., Back up lamp, seat belt timer, Bulb check relay, Air Conditioner, Rear window defogger, A/T control system, Daytime light control unit and the A/T shift lock. I have fixed the problem that I posted on the discussion page on 03/29/08. I found out one of the ignition relay behind the fuse box was not grounded. All I did was grounded the relay to a screw which grounded to the frame of the car. Now the car is able to start without any problem.

Looks like the Neutral switch for older model but change name in 1995 but same part, it is under your car on the driver side, look for the transmission pan to give a point...on the side your will see a piece in half-moon with two bolts each side and a connection...easy to remove and replace as only two bolts BUT,But when you change it need to adjust it,,,which necessitate some knowledge and if not done correctly can not only not start but break tranny! If you want idea how it look go to spareparts website...