Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer

I have a 94 E-150. The relay is on the drivers side under the hood in a black box. Mine is the little square that plugs in right in the middle of three. they are all together. It should be diagramed in your owners manuel, or you can get it out of a chilton's mauel. have a great day

get an obd2 scan to check for codes. many causes; tune-up, tps sensor, egr valve and dpfe sensor, o2 sensors etc... so get an engine diag.

-Switch spark plugs to factory motocraft plugs. Cheep and efficient! Also eliminates spark knocking with manual transmition and hitching or hesitation. Good Luck!

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AFTER I RAN OUT OF FUEL AND I WAS INSTRUCTED TO LEAVE MY IGNITION ON FOR AROUND FIVE MINUTES TO PRIME THE FUEL AND TO MY GREAT PLEASURE IT DID THE TRICK, I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAVE BUT GIVE IT A SHOT ,HOPE THIS HAS BEEN HELPFUL FOR YOU.GOOD LUCK.

My XJ8 refused to start after switching it off after only running it for a few seconds; I was told the cylinders were flooded with fuel (when the engine is cold more fuel is pumped into the cylinders).

The remedy was to start the engine with the gas pedal flat on the floor (don't 'pump' it); this will stop any further fuel being sent to the cylinders and will also clear them of any excess fuel. When the engine starts just take your foot off the pedal and let it warm up. Hope this helps.

The coil is built into the distributor. For the 1999-2003 Galant straight-four, there are two coil packs. The ignition coils go over the spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 4.

If you know for sure that it is not getting fuel or fire, you need to check the ECM fuse. If it is good then check the relay. If you have a professional hook up a scanner then it will tell what is wrong with it. That would be cheaoer than guessing unless you have plenty of money to waste on replacing good parts.

Modern vehicles cannot be 'tuned up.' Th term tune up refers to how vintage vehicles needed their timing and ignitions adjusted. Modern EFI vehicles are computer controlled and no longer require such services. However the term of 'tune-up' is still used deceptively by some shops. That being said a 2002 Lincoln does require services such as coolant, engine oil, transmission, brake fluid, and power steering fluid changes. Changing these fluids are critical to long service life. Furthermore, the Lincoln does have spark plugs and ignition wires that are specified to be changed at certain mileage intervals. Often modern spark plugs are specified to last 100,000 miles. Other services recommended are the changing of belts, hoses, engine & cabin air filters, PCV valves, and fuel filters. In modern terms the servicing and replacing of these components can regard today's version of a tune-up.

best bet is to buy the haynes or chilton manual. may be ona sticker the hood with other belt diagrams. if ur gonna change the belt i highly recomend the manual. not essentially hard but you need to follow book pretty closely. im sure if you look hard enough you find diagrams somewhere on line. hey 4 25 bucks will save you hrs of trying to find what you need.good luck

Go to this website. It shows how to take off the door panel. http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000110.pdf

Find a thin yet hard tool of some sort, I used a putty knife to remove both of my door panels. Wrap your tool in masking or duct tape so you don't scratch paint. Starting at the bottom, work the knife in between the panel and the metal of the door. You'll find a small plastic button clips hold the bottom in place. Carefully pry the bottom lose, if you break the clips, they sell them at Auto Zone, but IT'S A HUGE HASSLE finding the right ones. Next take out all the Phillips head screws you find. Should be three of them if i recall. two large ones in the handle/armrest and one behind the door handle itself. Also don't miss the one up near the top-front if you don't have the factory Infinity tweeters. Once those are taken out continue w/ your putty knife carefully prying the panel off until all you have left connecting the door to the panel is the wiring and door latch bars. Those are removed by taking off the small ring clips on the door panel end of the bars. And the wiring if you have it is a simple wiring harness plug. There you have it, a naked Jeep door. I highly suggest putting Dynamat or some other sound deadening material between the panel and door before you replace it, makes a world of difference in the amount of road/tire noise.

vacuum controlled doors ...vacuum leak or a pen or pencil down the vents....look at some pics Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the reference section(make copies of the right sections) read up and fix it like a PRO! :) good luck

A little more information. Year/model. Some sway bar links become loose because of wear and the links continue to work but make a noise when the front end hits a bump. Other sway bar links will break altogether and the vehicle will lean excessivly when going around a corner.

aaah, my very first thing i did to my xj. upgraded t case and new parts galore. you can do it, loosen the engine mounts and use a jack to support the engine, let it hang down a tad and workaway. it can be done, i had to do it. and if i can, anyone can!

It's not good. You have to partially drop the steering to have the pan clear and take it totally out, especially if your oil pump is still installed because the stem with the screen goes way to the bottom of the pan. I've had my pan down several times, but I could manage to maneuver it enough to get in and clean the bottom of the pan, or remove the oil pump.

If you can hear the power window motor "trying" to work, and you still can't get the window to roll up, the most likely cause is a bad window regulator. In some vehicles, the regulators are made from plastic and become brittle over time. I had the same problem with a 2002 jeep liberty and followed advice (see related links below for the reference) I found by googling on how the "repair/rig" the regulator to work again. As a worst case scenario, you may have to buy a replacement regulator. The good news is, it's not terribly difficult to replace, especially if your a do-it-yourself'er.

The door sensor is an integral part of the door latch mechanism. The sensor cannot be replaced independent of the latch. A sensor appears on each of the four doors, as well as the tailgate. WD40 sprayed on the sensor sometimes frees it up (you must remove the interior door panels to access -- it's part of the latch and difficult to see because it's well hidden inside the door), but just as often, WD40 won't cure it. You can also remove the 15Amp fuse in position 14 in the box located beneath the driver's side of the dash. This will disable the interior lights as well as the running board lights (good), but it also disables the power windows (bad). This will, however, solve the problem of the lights remaining on after the doors are shut and running down your battery. The only true fix is the replace the affected latches. They sell for approx. $55 on the Web, and unless you're mechanically inclined, and very patient, you should have the dealer do it for you (expensive). Malfuntioning door sensors are a very common problem on Expeditions, Explorers and Windstars.

that you can download them you shud knw tht! you shud knw tht! you shud knw tht! nerd

follow the heater hose at the rear of the engine and you will find it.

you have to locate the factory code it might be on the back hach of your suv. or on the drivers door or undr the hood, if you cant find it call the dealer ship and they can give it to you by your vin.

it is mounted above the glove box. I believe you have to remove the glove box to locate it.

Any Air Compressor has to be maintained from time to time. If schedule maintenance are done then the wear and tear are very minimal. They are user friendly and they are efficient due to staging besides they also produce more Air pressure which are required for many other applications. Reciprocating compressor also very useful and reliable for compressing and pumping liquids. It also most prominently used in oil refineries, chemical plants, pipelines and natural gas processing plants.

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Mass Airflow Sensor Operation The Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor directly measures the mass of air being drawn into the engine. The sensor output is used to calculate injector pulse width. The (MAF) sensor is what is referred to as a "hot-wire sensor". The sensor uses a thin platinum wire filament, wound on a ceramic bobbin and coated with glass, that is heated to 200*C (417*F) above the ambient air temperature and subjected to the intake airflow stream. A "cold-wire" is used inside the (MAF) sensor to determine the ambient air temperature. Battery voltage from the EEC power relay, and a reference signal and a ground signal from the PCM are supplies to the (MAF) sensor. The sensor returns a signal proportionate to the current flow required to keep the "hot-wire" at the required temperature. The increased airflow across the "hot-wire" acts as a cooling fan, lowering the resistance and requiring more current to maintain the temperature of the wire. The increased current is measured by the voltage in the circuit, as current increases, voltage increases. As the airflow increases the signal return voltage of a normally operating (MAF) sensor will increase. Testing 1. Using a multimeter, check for voltage by back probing the (MAF) sensor connector. 2. With the key ON, and the engine OFF, verify that there is at least 10.5 volts between the VPWR and GND terminals of the (MAF) sensor connector. If voltage is not within specification, check power and ground circuits and repair as necessary. 3. With the key ON, and the engine ON, verify that there is at least 4.5 volts between the SIG and GND terminals of the (MAF) sensor connector. If voltage is not within specification, check power and ground circuits and repair as necessary. 4. With the key ON, and the engine ON, check voltage between GND and SIG RTN terminals. Voltage should be approximately 0.34-1.96 volts. If voltage is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty. Removal & Installation (4.6L & 5.4L) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Release the air cleaner clamp and separate the air cleaner halves. 3. Remove the grommet from the air cleaner housing and slide the grommet down the hardness. 4. Remove the (MAF) sensor plate and (MAF) sensor from the air cleaner. 5. Detach the (MAF) sensor from the harness. 6. Remove the retaining nuts and remove the (MAF) sensor. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Hey Jennifer==It would help if you included the engine you have but according to my information it parobablyis at the front of the engine in the valve cover. GoodluckJoe The oil cap is on the valve cover, might be tight and remember to give the threads a wipe before re-installing after oil addition.

It is located right at the front left side of your Toyota corolla car's bonnet, near to carburetor.

This entirely depends on what kind of computer/laptop you have with Microsoft XP OS, but - to restart your computer you click start, shutdown, then restart. Try pressing control, alt, and delete simultaneously. If it has frozen up and you can't do this, hold the power button in for a few seconds, this is the next safest way to shut it down. If that doesn't work, unplug it and plug it back it and press the power button to start it up. Warning. These methods can lose any unsaved data, but if it has frozen up, you don't have much choice.

The best advice is to visit Santa Fe forums asking for a write up (if one exist). Write up in car forums are you best choice if you are an amateur to auto maintenance as the pictures are in color and with the best and most detailed instructions in most cases.

2nd choice is to buy a maintenance manual from a local auto store. Cost is around $40-$60 by car but will save you HOURS not to mention broken parts if you missed a step. Having someone give you typed instructions is risky if you are not entirely familiar with a certain maker as each maker has their own hidden tricks for dis-assembly.

Generic instructions for most vehicles:

Remove the glovebox to physically view the blower fan. Peeling back front carpet may be requied.

You will need to tell us the model number and type for that info. -Kohler makes MANY engines, some with vertical shaft and some with horizontal shaft, all with different oil capacities. - We wouldn't want to give you incorrect information -