Heating AC and Engine Cooling

It will be in the firewall on the far right of the engine compartment, just below the hood. four screws, and a couple of wires holds it in. The blower (squirrel cage) then has to be removed, and transferred to the new motor. Then replace. It isn't that difficult.

Afraid it isn't QUITE that simple, on my 1995 Thunderbird LX it is way down on the firewall on the right side, near the bottom.

R134a

I have a 93 and it gets 25 MPG around town. A little better on the highway, but not much.

The filter is located under the windshield cowl on the passenger side. Turn the wipers on till they reach the middle of the window, shut them off so they are pointing up. There are 4 screws that hold it in place. 2 are under a plastic cap on the top, and 2 are on the firewall. Remove them then lift the cowl up and there it is.

I had my Lexus GS300 timing belt replaced by dealer at 110K miles including a new head gasket. After three years at 145K the head gasket was blown, and it's obviously the dealer didn't do a good job to install and torqued it properly. Defective head. Never torqued properly at installation. Ran the car for a long period of time with little or no coolant/oil.

By taking it to an A/C shop. You have no business attempting this. It does not contain gas, it contains refrigrant.

There probably is not one, because block heaters are not installed by the manufacturer.

== == Cooling fans are designed to start at 235 degrees

If it's a TXV system, it'll be located between the receiver-drier and the evaporator.

Probably not water pump failure the temperature is building up with more engine load, cause-> combustion pressure and heat is transfering into the cooling system in relation to engine load. most likely; 1)blown head gasket 2)cracked head 3)cracked block, or possibly faulty thermostat. check compression. RK

Have someone sit in the car and turn the AC on and off as you listen at the underhood fuse box for the clicking relay. Or, you know, look in the manual.

Your lower resistor for the HVAC blowing unit is bad. You can buy this part at a carquest if you have one nearby for less than $20. I did some research on this since my 1999 alero had the same issue. I replaced it, and it did work for a little while (less than two weeks). However, it failed again, so i am stuck with my heater/ ac blower only working on High. I cannot locate the instructions I used to replace the resistor, but i can give you an idea, and you should be able to figure it out from there. Here are my simple steps: #1) First, you should buy the lower resistor for your HVAC unit from carquest or another parts store. GMpartsdirect.com is too pricey, but if you go to them or your local gm dealer, you can get the part as well... If you just explain the problem they should know what you need, but it is called the lower resistor for the HVAC blower unit. #2) after you have the part in hand, you will see that it has a wire connector (female end) and a credit card sized chip attached to it. #3) The blower motor is on the passengers side of the car, on the floorboard at the very front of the car attached to the firewall, you will have to lay on your stomach and look up to see the wire harness that attaches to this lower resistor. #4) the size of the nut is 7/32. A socket is probably they easist method on the FRONT nut, on the rear nut, you will probably have to use a 7/32 wrench, i bought mine at craftsman. Basically, locating the resisor is the easy part, i had extreme difficulty trying to get the resistor out, but i eventually did, and replaced it. Like i said before, mine crapped out again in less than a week, so i have not replaced it again, i figure that i can live with my blower working on only high, atleast it still works...

The thermostat closes (preventing the circulation of cooling fluid through the radiator) while the coolant is below the setpoint. Once the fluid rises to the setpoint, the thermostat opens. This assures that the engine is operating at a specific temperature. Engines are far more efficient when operating at a higher temperature... so long as it isn't TOO high. Without a thermostat, the coolant constantly circulates through the radiator and cools as much as the radiator will allow.

Look atr bottom or rear of radiator

Most if not all 97 Cutlasses seem to have the 3100 SFI engine in them. The water pump should be located behind the water pump pulley which is a smooth (not grooved) belt pulley at the top near the front. Be sure to loosen (but not remove) the pulley bolts before you remove the belt. Also, if you're replacing the pump, bring the engine to normal operating temperature before you begin if you don't like broken bolts.

The vacuum supply line from the engine is disconnected or broken. When the vacuum supply is cut off the system defaults to the defrost mode.

its attach to the radiator on new modules.either single or dual.cools the engine down fast.to prevent overheating.

A loose or broken impeller will make a rattling noise from within the water pump. Another way to check is to remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Watch the coolant through the filler neck (DO NOT STAND TOO CLOSE). When the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat opens, you should see the coolant circulating inside the radiator. While you're at it, make sure the radiator fan comes on - if it doesn't, then the problem may very well be a bad relay or fan motor instead of the water pump.

Are you asking about BOTH fans? One fan is the cooling system fan, located on the passengers side of the radiator, and the other is strictly the A/C cooling fan, located on the drivers side (operates ONLY when the A/C is activated). First, check the fuses or relays controlling these fans - after that it becomes a little more complicated. I do not believe that procedures for this troubleshooting are available free on-line, and the step-by-step instructions (in the Haynes Repair Manual) take up more than a page - are far too lengthy to go into here, and are copyrighted. Short of buying the manual you may have to get the vehicle to a mechanic.

engine burning oil( white or blueish exhaust smoke ), water in oil, oil in water, water in exhaust.

Here are several answers and opinions from FAQ Farmers: * McDonalds? I mean, c'mon, where else would you get an engine leak test besides from a mechanic? Unless your cousin Louie has the equipment. * A leak down test requires a special fitting, which screws into the spark plug hole, and an air compressor. Anyone who has this equipment can do a leak down test, although understanding the results requires knowledge and experience.

belt slips a little when comp comes on -relace belt

The cooling fan is operated by an electric motor rather than the revolutions of the car's motor. If your fan is staying on I would investigate the electrical systems leading to the fan, if the key is in the on position it is probably allowing power to pass to the electric motor. Otherwise there may be some short in a switch that is meant to shut it off.

Your thermostat is stuck in the open position. Replace the thermostat and no more problems. Quick fix and only costs about 20 dollars.

Yes, because water pumps have what is known as a 'weep hole', which will leak coolant when the water pump is going bad. Look for water or moisture in the area of the pump, especially when the engine has reached operating temperature, and then has been shut down. This is the time of the highest pressure in the cooling systen, when the coolant is still absorbing heat, but is not being circulated.