Locks and Latches

These models came stock with a release button below the cigarette lighter. If you look directly to the right of the radio there should be a button to push that will release the glass and then once its open, your tailgate should open once you do it manually.

Hope this helps you

most likely the clicking you hear is the lock acuator motors trying to unluck the car but they are worn so as they dont work. if this is what you mean then you have to replace the accuator

Did you ever get yours open?? I'm having the same problem.

Well if you are hearing the clicking on both ends of lock and unlock switching, then that would be a good sign! This means that the relay module is working as far as it trying to move the lock motors located in the doors. Be sure to confirm that the clicking sounds your hear come from somewhere near the dash under part or from one of the doors closest to where the door attaches to the car and not where it opens away from the car. You are trying to locate the relay module by doing this. Next check would be to test the lock motors that would be located inside your doors. Remove your door panels to find the motors located somewhere near the open side or key cylinders. You will find 2 wires leading out of the motors; these wires alternate 12v positive and negative between the two depending on whether you

I had the same issue. It was my computer, luckily it was under warranty when the issue occured. The BCM might be going bad, have fun. Matthew Self Slip Stream Customs

The lock is sticking. It needs to be removed and cleaned. It could also be faulty wiring. 306's are notorious for this. Open the drivers side door & check the rubber piping by the door hinges for damage. Make sure the plug is in properly. If all looks ok, you'll probably have to get the wiring re-done.

The latch closes when you close the door, and the door locks automatically after you put the car in drive and start to go. it sounds like you could have a malfunctioning latch or and adjustment problem. The window issue is a little vague, it could possibly be an electrical problem such as a bad ground in the door or switch on the door panel. Was the car wrecked? Did someone go into the door to repair the window problem, and possibly leave something loose? IS the latch or striker {on the "B" post} out of adjustment? Are the door hinges worn? Look for wear on the striker that the door closes onto. Look for wear on the little hook catch in the door latch. Take a screw driver with the door open and engage the latch to see if it locks in place. You can unlock it after by operating the exterior handle. Does the door when opened have some verticle movement up or down that might show some wear of the hinges? Are the hinges mounted properly to the "A" post, or is there some looseness or un-welded seams? Re-post the results of your findings and I'll look for it when you do and try to help you with an answer. Good Luck.

I just ran across this answer by coincidence yesterday. Depends on what system you have but if you log into http://www.hmaservice.com/authenticator/login?returnAddress=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hmaservice.com%3A80%2Findex.jspthey have all the details on resetting/setting this function.

go to your schools office and ask for them to open it with a master key. they will guide you from there. then you will recover all of your belongings and valuble stuff!

Chloe x

That is something that only the dealer can possibly access, depending on your system configuration, and disable using factory equipment to comunicate with the control module. I say "possibly" because it Amy or may not be a fuction tht can be turned off. It depends on the system configuration.

If you can open it from the inside then just take off the door panel and plastic lining. There will be 2 linkages coming form the outside handle 1 for the lock and the other for opening the door. Sometimes the linkages can stretch. Where the link connects to the actuator there is plastic bushing with height adjustment. Turn the bushing to the height that works if not bend the link slghtly. Remember to grease everthing with wd40.

Answer: I had a similar problem. The front driver door was locked permanently. So I opened the rear driver side door. From the rear door I drilled out the bracket which the doors latchs onto. This allowed me to open the driver side door. After that I was able to take off the panel and replace the power door latch assembly.

The old "slim jim" trick doesn't work well anymore. They redesigned the inside of the door to make harder to jimmy the lock. Keep a spare key in your wallet or stashed under the truck somewhere only you know about.

Look for damage to the car (like the hood pushed back or out of alignment). Try this: With a second person helping, have one person in the drivers seat pull the hood release while another person pulls up on the hood either with their fingers or using some type of pry bar or screw driver (you can also try pushing down and pulling up).

If the hood is not coming up at all, then you need to either take the car to a dealer or mechanic, or take more extreme measures. The first thing to do would be to spray as much penetrating lubricant as possible at the hood latch assuming you can even hit it, let it sit for some time, then try the above again. You could try removing the hood release lever inside the car, and pull the cable with pliers (to get some extra travel on it).

It is possible that the cable is no longer attached to the latch at all, in which case you will have to manually open the latch. The only choices are to either try to get to the latch from below the car or through the front grill. Most likely you will need to remove the front grill to access the latch mechanism from there (this would most likely require breaking the plastic tabs that hold the grill in place or cutting part of the grill). Once you have access to the latch, you can manually open it either with your hands or using a screw driver or pliers.

keep dreamin

ASE Master Certified Tech... Depends on Make and Model. Just start to think about it.

Look at car interiors, plastic everywhere under hood in the trunk, lights, door handles, mirror housings, wheel covers, many mouldings, most emblems, fuel doors, fuel caps...............

I believe the hood release is in the glove compartment on the right at the top.

If it's only the driver side door, it's most likely a wiring connection within the door. If NONE of the doors are opening with your fob, you'll just have to change the button battery inside of the fob.

You can get your 1994 Chevy S 10 pickup truck hood latch unstuck by spraying a lubricant on the latching mechanism. You can also remove the hood latch retaining bolts to bypass the stock release cable.

all i know is that I've got a friend with the same problem and he's is at breaking point with this.he has his driver side fender off, front bumper off, you name it. i almost think you can route it through the fire wall behind your steering wheel,run it along with washer hoses, somewhere under the headlight, now under the frame towards the latch. you should take your bumper cover off for good vision. with some zip ties and tucking the cable under stuff i think this should be a breeze for you.

Disconnect the cable from both ends, tie a strong string to the hood end, pull from the handle end. Tie the new cable to the end under dash and pull from the hood end of the string. This takes some strong pulling but once it starts going it is smooth sailing from there.

I just went thru this on a 2002 s-blazer. Thier is a access hole behind the carpet on the rear inner gate panel. If you peel the center top of the carpet down you will see a small punch out behind the carpet. The punch out is about 3/8 of a inch high and about a inch long. If you punch this out you will see a gold colored lever insid the access hole, you can stick a screwdriver in their and slide it toward the passsenger side of the vehicle, this should release the gate glass. Good luck,Techboy23

Press the lock button a second time.

i dont think there is central locking in them

Sure. Can you open the lid? If so, there is only a clip that holds the lock in. Remove the lock, and with a small screwdriver, or pin, work what is left of the shank out of the cylinder of the lock, replace the lock, and you are back in business.

The 1997 Honda Passport does not have a secret latch to open the rear door. The rear door latch can be found just above the license plate holder.

Type your answer here... Have had to this recently. First I had to get at the small screw at the top of the door that holds the door panel in place, it is at the top left hand side. I got a pair of long nosed pliers on to it and just kept turning it until there was enough to get a hacksaw blade in and cut in half then with the pliers removed the rest. then I removed the door handle. then with a screwdriver managed to force the top of the door panel enough to get into the door lock area ( it is very tight space). The whole panel cannot be removed at this time as there are further screws hidden at the hinge end. If look in you will see a black cover that covers the main locking device. There is a small screw with a hex type screw, remove it. Then it is back to brute force put a large screwdriver type tool between the black cover and the white lock mechanism and force off. Then you will see the main lock. it is a matter of then pushing or pulling at some of the levers. Eventually found the one that released the lock. hay presto the door unlocked.