Steering and Suspension

Have had this problem twice. Once at 3000 m and once at 105000. Both times it was the coil pack, what the wires connect too at the other end of the spark plugs. Both were dealer manufacturer parts. Replaced with a coil pack bought off of eBay for 40, immediately fixed the problem. Hope this helps, if not, check for a vaccum leak.

your brake pads are probley wore out so its grinding on your rotor

First, an inverted Torx socket is needed. It is necessary to remove the steering wheel, locking plate, turn signal switch, and upper tilt mechanism to get to the bolts. Once all components are removed, the socket (needs to be

Crawl under the car and inspect the suspension. You may have a loose or broken shock.

You either have no/low power steering fluid in your car, or there is some other problem with the power steering, such as a leak in the tube.

Sorry this is an incorrect statement : "there is no physical difference between rims on cars that are front vs. rear wheel drive. The differences lie almost completely within the drivetrain itself."

Traditionally a RWD vehicle will take a rim of neutral to negative offset. A FWD vehicle takes a rim with positive offset.... the confusion is with new RWD ie late 80's on rwd as they have tended to be positive offset at well... eg late model Corvette/Camaro/Mustang

It all relates to OFFSET

u change it

locate the power steering pump is located on the right front of the motor remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine unscrew the cap of the pumps reservor check the stick under the cap

You could have a starved CV joint. Take your blazer to a wide-open space (i.e., vacant parking lot) roll your windows down and turn the vehicle in tight circles in both directions. If the noise is present have a mechanic check your CV boots/joints.

A Ship's Wheel, which is used to turn a rudder or direct the trust of the engines. The actuator of the rudder can also be called the helm or tiller. These can be mechanical, hydraulic or pneumatic (rare). Thrusters may also be placed at different points around the hull of the vessel to increase maneuverability in tight spaces and to assist with berthing and leaving port.

Shift rod is replacable, I believe a diagram comes with the part from the dealer. definately the dealer will have a partd diagram but you will also need the parts of the old shifter to salvage the lever itself as well as the spring (on the bottom) of the rod to complete the new rod * Remove the dress panel from the bottom of the dash, remove the stiffener bracket, remove the two large nuts (or was it four? I did this some years ago...) from the bracket holding the steering column in place, and disconnect the shift indicator wire from the column. The column drops straight down and that will give you access to the top of the column where the important parts live. You might need to remove the instrument panel bezel as well to get enough access. Oh, and if the brake pedal lockout solenoid is sticking as mine was, this is a good opportunity to get rid of it. 8-)

check for loose or worn shock absorbers

look below heater hose

The noise is from the rear differential clutches. Bring it in to Honda and they will drain and refill them, they will also perform a burnish procedure. This is covered by the Honda Care package if you have it.

You jack up the one corner of the vehicle and place it on a jack stand. then you remove the tire. Then remove the upper balljoint castle nut and split the ball joint. Then all that's left is to remove the two bolts securing the control arm to the frame and you should be able to pull the control arm out.

Yes

yOU CAN TRY CONTACTING YOUR DEALER, THEY SHOULD HAVE A SCHEMATIC. MOST MAJOR LIBRARIES CARRY AUTOMOTIVE SCHEMATICS THAT YOU CAN HAVE COPIED.

You'll have to pull the steering wheel and tilt assembly apart to repair this. You will require some specialized tools to make this repair. If you're not that competent with doing your own repairs, I would suggest taking it to the dealer for service on this. It will probably run you about $125 or so.

The driver will lose steering control. The wheels may turn in different directions, and all the driver can do is hold on until the car stops.

wheel balance is probably needed also check the u-joints vibrations can travel and give false sense of where they are coming from could also be a bent wheel

They are pressed in and out with a set of special tools.

They need to be pressed out with a press and reinstalled the same way. But you're probably better off getting new control arms because they are relatively inexpensive compared to other vehicles and it comes with new bushings and ball joint. As of now (Oct 2009) you can find these replacement control arms for as little as $76 per side.

Jack up the front of the van and take off the wheel of the tie rod you will be replacing.

Remove the outer tie rod at the wheel end by first removing the cotter pin and castle nut. Break the outer tie rod end free from the control arm using a tie rod remover tool, or thread the nut off the top, turn it upside down and thread it on until you just see the top of the tie rod through the threads, then whack it down with a hammer until it breaks free. Note that you might ruin the tie rod end in the process. Tie rod end remover tools such as the vice type or the pickle fork type are not expensive. It pays to invest in one!

Hold the outer tie rod end jam nut with a wrench and unscrew the outer tie rod end from the tie rod.

Remove the clamp on the outer end of the rubber boot covering the tie rod using pliers. Remove the clamp on the steering rack end by prying the clamp off. Slide the boot down the tie rod toward the wheel.

Remove the pop rivet locking the inner tie rod threads. You should be able to get under its head with a sharp chisel or screwdriver and pop it out or mangle it enough in trying to be able to grab it with vice grip pliers and pull it out. Worst comes to worst drill it out.

Put a big wrench on the inner tie rod end nut and unscrew it from the steering rack.

TO REINSTALL

If you are saving the boot unscrew the jam nut from the old inner tie rod end and slide the boot off. Slide the boot onto the new inner tie rod end. This is a good time to install the outer boot clamp and jam nut on the new inner tie rod end. Screw the new tie rod end onto the steering rack with previously used big wrench and lock its threads with the Allen head setscrew or other locking device supplied with the new inner tie rod. Grease the new tie rod end ball with the grease supplied.

Slide the boot onto the steering rack, making sure to line up the pressure equalization tube with its socket on the boot. Use a tie-wrap or a thin worm clamp to secure the boot as you probably can't reuse the original clamp.

Thread the outer tie rod end onto the tie rod. Connect the outer tie rod end to the control arm, tighten down the nut and insert the cotter pin. If the cotter pin doesn't line up, tighten the nut more. Never back off on the nut to line up the cotter pin.

Put the wheel back on. Do a preliminary wheel alignment by setting the steering wheel straight ahead and taping a piece of string to the back of the back wheel and the other end to the front of the front wheel. Rotate the tie rod threading it into or out of the outer tie rod end until the string just touches the front and back of each tire at the same time.

Tighten the jam nut onto the outer tie rod end and put the clamp back on the wheel side of the inner tie rod end boot.

The most likely cause is a bad steering rack. The valves inside the rack could be stuck, broken or blocked. You could also have a bad strut(s) or ball joints that are binding the steering linkage. It could also be bad or broken motor mounts.

Though less likely, it could be the bearings inside the steering column are binding up, or something pressing against the shaft and keeping it from turning freely. The most likely problem is the steering rack.

In most cases cars today have power steering. When this is not working properly, the car is hard to turn. The two most common reasons is a loose, slipping, or broken belt, or, the system is low on fluid.