Heating AC and Engine Cooling

When you change the settings on the climate control system (i.e. from floor to defrost to bi-lev) does the panel hiss? You should be able to hear a hissing noise as vacuum is transfered from one part of the system to another. If you do, check the air door and control for the defroster. If you do not, check your vacuum supply. Check the shop manual at your library. The shop manual goes into incredible detail and has problem-solving flow charts.

Most likely the heater core is leaking. If there is also water on the floor and an antifreeze smell in the passenger compartment, those are also signs of a cracked heater core. Also, GET THAT TEMP GAUGE FIXED!!! You could be overheating and not even know it. Once the motor overheats, you're risking a blown head gasket, a VERY EXPENSIVE repair, or even worse, a blown engine. If steam is coming out of the vents it is very possible the motor is overheating. You need two repairs, your heater core and your temperature gauge.

My heater core was replaced since it had a hole in it. The blower was also replaced but with a used one. The guage is now working and so far, no more white smoke. Heater does not get hot though and the blower motor is very loud. Hey, ya gotta laugh a little...from one thing to another. I suppose the worse thing is over. Thank the Lord though I did not have a new car since the guy that worked on it did a number on my dash.

Symptom: on a 2000 Ford Contour, white smoke came through the vents and the smeel was acrid. We switched the car off. A few hours later, the car was fine, no more smoke, but the heater didn't work on one speed setting.

Solution: there is a resistor block which controls the blower speed in the ducting. When one of the resistors goes, white smoke is fed dirrectly up to the vents. Replacement is easy (admittedly while doing a head stand in the passenger footwell) and fairly cheap.

Suggestion: many other cars will have a similar layout. Check this out before investing in a new heater core...

could be alot of issues here. In my car, the fan motor was broken, it is also possible that the sensor that controls your radiator fan is broken, could be an A/C relay that is failing. Lot's of issues, but it is most likely a mechanical failure in the fan. I would recomend getting a multimeter and checking the electrical connections on the fan motor.

They are fully electronic. If you're sure it's the controls, you'll have to buy a new one from the dealer or a used one from an auto wrecker.

If the temperature of your car engine is still very high after stopping, the car cooling fan will continue to run, and the cooling fan will not work until the temperature drops.

The above answer comes from Suzhou Santian Precision Mould Manufacturing Co., Ltd.

If there is no heat coming out of the vents, but there is air coming out on a 2003 Mercedes Benz E-320, check the thermostat to make sure it is not sticking. If this is okay, check the heater core. If the heater core is bad, there will be water on the passenger side floorboard.

ford premium gold coolant , also mask the dealer about the diesel coolant additive

You've got a short somewhere. Check closely at all wires for cracks/breaks where they could be touching metal.

Yes, this is a normal operation for most newer cars, and is designed to help prevent windshield fogging when using the defrost function.

Yes

Most likely cause is a vaccum leak. The controls move components via vaccum. When there is a slow leak, the vaccum decreases while sitting idle and increases as the rpm of the engine increase. Diagnosong where leak is can be difficult and recommed seeking proffessional assistance from reputable mechanic.

Thermostat is probably stuck in the open position or the system was not bled properly. Bleed the system properly and if it still exhibits the same symptoms, replace the thermostat. You may have purchased a bad new one.

The engine in your automobile is supposed to operate at around 200-220 degrees. That is the temperature at which it is the most efficient. If the engine is running hot, then you need to find out why. Drain and flush the radiator, replace the thermostat, and fill with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water.

An auto parts store will have a fuse layout for a 1994 Eagle Talon TSI. You may also be able to find books at your local library with a fuse layout for the car.

The a/c compressor may be on it's way out. Don't wait to replace it. As it is wearing out, it sends trash into the a/c system making it difficult and costly to clean out the system. Some parts can't be cleaned and have to be replaced. If it is not cleaned out completely the remaining trash will damage the new compressor in a short time.

Check your coolant level, it's probably low.

This might be a thermostat problem. A slight internal leak or a thermostat that is ever so slightly _broken_ can do this.

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behind strut tower between tower and fire wall driver side in wiring harness. looks like printer ink cartiage mine was white cant miss it.

on the passanger side under the carpet sorta up by the kick plate

1st. Why did you change the Pump? Was it leaking or just making noise? If it was leaking, maybe that was not your leak. Maybe you have a hose with a pin hole spraying fluid at the pump. Did you use any gasket sealant on the new pump gasket? Are you sure the you installed the correct bolts in the correct holes. Some are longer than others in most applications. Use a good strong light and round extension mirror to inspect the area (WITH THE MOTOR STOPPED) where the leak is suspected.also check the timing chain cover gasget fluid also goes in that area and looks like the pump is leaking.

The water temperature sending unit is on the front of the engine. It is next to the top water hose inlet connection.

ford dealers charge 79.95 per labor hour

We had the exact same problem with one of our vehicles. It would start when the engine was cool, but once the engine got hot it just shut down. It wouldn't start again till the engine cooled. The problem was fixed by replacing the module under the coil packs. It has to be tested while still hot to be able to determine if it's the problem, once that module cooled it tested just fine, but was bad. Hope this helps!

On the 1996 Taurus it is located in the CCRM which is not serviceable you will need a new one from the auto parts store or from a junk yard. They average 150 at auto zone. The ccrm is right next to the battery its a little box that plugs in.