Heating AC and Engine Cooling

i think you have something stuck in the blower motor. these are normally fairly easy to get out but i dont know what kind of vehicle you have. just pull out the blower motor and get the leaves out.

In the power distribution box under the hood. There is also a relay there that controls the fan. and last but not least, there is a resistor that controls all fan speeds.

My Wife's 1998 Dodge Caravan's air conditioning system is making a "hissing" sound when it is turned on. It sounds like it is from the inside of the car. When I called a local dealer they suspect it may be the evaporator coil leaking. They gave an estimate of $800.00 plus but would try and determine if that was the problem. We may or may not try to have it fixed. If we do I will try and advise what happens.

I assume you meant A/C Compressor. The belt is slipping. Either it is loose and needs adjustment or the compressor is locked up. u either need a new fan blet or compressor clutch is sticking try the fan belt first is the cheaper fix of the two

not sure about on a 93. But mine 94 2.o has it on the left (driver side) wheel panel inside the hood. it is screwed into the side panel right before the battery.

sounds like your thermostat is stuck, assuming I read you post right...

I read your question as if you've replaced the waterpump, and something about replacing some coolant lines, but are not getting any coolant flow so you engine is overheating while the radiator and coolant lines stay cool to the touch. Sounds like either a major clog in the system or a stuck thermostat to me.

This should NOT be done... You will contaminate the whole system and have to repalce everythig A/C. The A/C will not work if it is mixed. Very expensive.

Your car does not have a radiator cap. You can only add coolant through the overflow reservoir. It takes a while. You have to fill it, start the engine and run it until it drinks it in, shut it off, fill it again, repeat repeat repeat. As a general rule, if you get to the point where you can have it running for 10 min without drinking any in, and your heater blows hot air, you are done.

The air cooling of a 4 stroke petrol engine takes when the air flows on the engine .it takes not by radiation.

Suggest blown head gasket with coolant leaking into one cylinder. Check colour of oil. If emulsified (mucky brown) then definite leak. Also, remove HT leads one by one to identify whether all cylinders are firing. If one is not firing, remove spark plug, then remove all other HT leads and turn engine over. You may find that coolant shoots out of the cylinder, indicating leak into that cylinder.

You did not mention the kind of car. Check the fuses and relay to be sure you have power. Also you have a blower motor resistor and the fan motor. Grounds are just as important as the power source.

in the engine in the underhood fuxe box near the motor

check coolant level check thermostat may be stuck closed

Low on coolant.

Stuck open thermostat.

Plugged heater core.

Temp blend door inop.

Doesn't work in what way, exactly?

you shorted some thing out oru left some thing off

expantion valve. this vehical has two

Here are several answers and opinions from FAQ Farmers: * If it overheated one time, it could have blown a head gasket. * It depends why it overheated. If it's low on coolant, it doesn't take long at all for the head to overheat and warp. That would blow the gaskets fairly quickly. If it overheated by overworking (going up a mountain, etc), but the pump is fine and it's filled with coolant, shutting it off is the worst thing you can do. In that case it's best to pull over to the side and let it idle. That will continue to circulate coolant throughout the system and it will run the electric radiator fans. If you shut it off, all the heat rises and warps the heads.

I own a 1998 Saturn SL2 and it is located in the plastic fuse box under the hood on the left side of the engine compartment (drivers side).

Your electric fans have stopped working. Turn on you A/C with the hood open. If no fan is running either the fan is bad (most likely) or the relay is bad (not as likely). Y-THINK-Y

your switch is activated by vacume. check all your vacume hoses around your engine to see if they are cracked or disconnected. start with the little black ball under the air filter box, and follow the vacume hoses from there.

# If equipped, remove the Instrument Panel (I/P) sound insulator. # Remove the filter access door screw under passenger sie I P # Remove the filter access door from the HVAC module. # Remove the passenger compartment air filter

It sounds like you have two separate problems. Incorrect routing of ventilation is usually caused by bad vacuum motors or loose vacuum lines, but remember that A/C is -supposed to be- routed to the defrost vents when controls are in the Defrost position. The dim temp control readout could be due to a number of causes, but probably isn't related to the other issue you describe.

When you change the settings on the climate control system (i.e. from floor to defrost to bi-lev) does the panel hiss? You should be able to hear a hissing noise as vacuum is transfered from one part of the system to another. If you do, check the air door and control for the defroster. If you do not, check your vacuum supply. Check the shop manual at your library. The shop manual goes into incredible detail and has problem-solving flow charts.