The light assy has to be removed and the bulbs removed from the back.

That is the dealers responsibility. It should be included with the purchase of the new key.

this is how i removed them i used a plug socket and two 3" extensions i put one extension into the socket placed this over the plug with the other extension on a 3/8 drive ratchet i then was able to place one ext. into the other that was on the plug removing the plug all was done from the top iam 6 ft and at 220 # so my arms are not small altho are fairly long this is for passenger side that sets under alternator to start the plug back into the hole i use a piece of rubber hose about 4" long i stick this over the plug am able to start plug back into hole without droping them the rest are fairly easy

The rear bank of sparks are hard to reach unless you have tiny arms. If you don't then you must remove the plentum. Also, you will need new plentum gaskets when re-installing.

I REACHED THE 3 REAR PLUGS ON MY 92 VOYAGER BY RAISING THE CAR ONTO JACKSTANDS AND DOING IT FROM THE BOTTOM. NEED TO BE CAREFUL SO YOU DONT CROSSTHREAD THE PLUGS GOING BACK IN BUT IT CAN BE DONE. JRT NEW MILFORD CT

This is how I removed mine: (1) Remove the windshield wiper arms and the cowl cover (black plastic below windshield) Remove the windshield wiper motor and linkage from the firewall. There are many individual steps to this but all are easy. (2) The driver side sparkplug should be removable using a socket with an elbow. This was easy. (3) I loosened the alternator and then could removed the passenger side sparkplug using an a socket with an elbow. This was not easy. (4) I removed the middle sparkplug by using a socket with an elbow, an extension, and another elbow on the socket wrench. This was difficult. (5) I ended up replacing the (middle) sparkplug(s) from the bottom after jacking the van up and putting it on jackstands. If I were to do it again, I would remove the cowl cover (this allows enough room to get on the sparkplugs with a socket) and remove the sparkplugs from the bottom. This would probably save a lot of scratches and time. The plenum does not have to be removed if the cowl cover and windshield wiper motor are removed.

The sparkplus socket with elbow was purchased at Sears. Overall, it took me about 4 hours trying to do most of the work from the top. Most of this time was spent trying to figure out how to make things work when you can't see what you're doing and when there's not much room to work. I felt really stupid when I noticed that all three sparkplugs are visible from the bottom once the cowl is off and there's enough room to work provided you have the elbow socket and extensions. The Chilton's manual wil tell you how to remove the cowl and windshield wiper motor.

Good luck and be happy the sparkplugs only need to be replaced every 100,000 miles.

I heard that removing the air filter will allow you easy access to the back spark plugs.. Will see when I try it this week on my 93 3.0L v6

this one is rigth you will need two short extention for the far left spark plug the others are easy to get too. that is next to the alternater ther are to screws hold on the air filter housing.

Defective voltage regulator, which is built into the alternator. Have the alternator tested. Most auto parts store will do this for free.

a major part of an automatic transmission...

A torque converter is what couples the engine to the transmission. It acts a little bit like a clutch and allow the engine to drive the transmission. At slow engine speeds, like at idle, it slips so the engine will not stall while the transmission is in gear. As engine speed (RPM) increases it allows the engine to drive the transmission.

This is just the basic idea of what a torque converter does.

most likely a bad heater core or the little gate type valve that changes from heat to air and back. or it could even be the switch.

most of the windstars have two heater cores not just one.

at least this is a place to start.

You are problay using the valet key. We had the same problem when we fist got our van. There is another key that work right. Get it.

If you don't have a timing mark or cannot find it you need to do this. Find out which cylinder is the #1 cylinder and pull the spark plug out of it. To make it easier to turn the motor over it is best to pull out all to the plugs so you aren't fighting the compression of the other cylinders. Next put a wrench onto the crankshaft pulley on the front of the motor. There should be a bolt there that holds it on. If not, you can turn it by hand. A second set of hands is always good also. Next once you have the plugs out, put you finger or thumb over the hole of the #1 cylinder's plug hole. Then turn or have a friend turn the motor until you feel pressure against your finger. Once you have this figured out you can take a straw or something that won't break and put it down into the cylinder. Going slowly, turn the engine until it looks to be all of the way out, (the straw). This is a good way of getting the timing close. Just remember that this is for ignition timing only. If you have a newer motor that has a 0 tolerance on the valve timing and you just "get it close" you will be smacking pistons into the valves. This however is an easy way to check and see where your distributor and #1 one cylinders are at.

It's located under the leaf screen. Remove the wiper arms, the the leaf screen. The wiper pivot arms connect to the wiper motor. The leaf screen, by the way, is the louvered part through which the wiper pivots protrude. Sorry, I didn't read the question correctly. You asked about the windshield washer motor which is located under the passenger side front fender apron. Look under the lower front inside the apron.

haha we will let you know we are fixing to attempt this on a 92 grand prix from the looks of it you have to unbolt the bottom 2 bolts then you will haveto lift up on tha engine at somepoint now if you can do this without dissconecting it from the tranny i do not know but i will add more if we can get it compleated either way it looks like it will suck

When you take off the transmission oil pan, you'll see it. Follow the wire from the electrical connector where it comes in to the trans. Ed

exactly where is of 02 oxigen sensor the ford windstar 2003

The cooling fan is electric and the sensor reads that your car is hot. It stays on, even when the car is off so that it can cool your engine to acceptable temperatures. If it didn't, and the car remains too hot, it can warp parts and destroy your engine.

If the fan runs for an exceptionally long time, and drains your battery giving you a no start or weak battery slow start condition, you may have a bad cooling fan relay.

The IAT sensor should be located on the intake air duct tube between the air filter housing and the throttle body

Open the tailgate and remove the two bolts holding the tail light assembly in place. Use a 9 mm socket wrench. Then, carefully pull the tail light straight out. Note that the outside edge of the lens is held in place with two pins that will pop out with slight pulling pressure. Twist the bult assembly to the unlock position and it will slide out of the light assembly. Then, pull the bulb straight out and replace it with a replacement bulb. Reassemble the tail light assembly in reverse order.

atpump one line should be a threaded male ferrule connection ( pressure outlet ) your pump should have a matching female threaded hole in it the other line is just aslip on type hose with clamp their should be a nipple on the pump this slips onto with clamp to secure it ( this is lo pressire or retun, suction for pump the other end connect to the rack and pinion steering unit ( usually on firewall behind engine connection points are usually on drivers side of rack (look through opening in fender well behind drivers side front wheel should be able to see them there access to them is a real bear but canbe reached (18 mm wrench) on my sons 94 top line on rack was return line bottom was pressure outlet . hope this helps

mine is doing the same. i have already bled the cooling system of air, checked the trap door motor for proper operation and still little heat comes out the vents. im leaning towards the inside thermostat for the climate control. its located between the vents on the passenger side. im stumpped too!

At the dealers during the 80's we often saw this intermittent problem in the service department. The most common cause was the TPS (throttle position sensor). An easy and accurate way for anybody to verify that it is indeed the TPS is to crank the engine while observing the tachometer needle. If the "tach signal" is present then the tach needle will fluctuate slightly off of zero. This simple test proves that the car's ECM (electronic control module) is receiving the "go-ahead-and-start-the-engine " signal. Unfortunately, this signal is required to keep the engine running as well. If there is no tach signal the ECM cannot recognize that the engine is running so it turns off the ignition and fuel injection. If while the engine is stalled you witness the absence of the cranking tach signal you will need to replace the TPS sensor. Be carefull to follow the replacement procedure exactly because these old sensors are adjustable. Better yet have a reputable shop do it.

It takes a special tool called an "inner tie rod removal tool". They are made by Snap-on. Looks like a piece of pipe that a special crowsfoot attachment goes in, the other end has a 1/2 drive hole for a breaker bar or torque wrench. Watch for one on e-bay. I only paid about ten dollars for mine that way. Well worth full price if you have to pay it.

If you have a bedliner, the two #1 Phillips screws are behind it. If you have a bed extender, the bolts that hold in the tails are the same for the brackets for the bed extender.

This also applies to newer Frontiers as well. Mine is a 2004. The bedliner concealed the 2 screws.

After removing the 2 screws the tail light assembly can be pulled slightly to the rear. There are 2 plastic plugs that are holding it in at this point.

Grasp the assembly at the top and bottom and pull firmly to the rear.

Turn the bulb assembly counter clockwise to remove. The bulb will pull straight out.

I suspect that as the vehicle gets older this plastic plug system will break. The female parts can be replaced as they screwed into the body.

To reassemble a sharp rap with the heel of the hand will reseat the plugs