Pulleys

Most idler pulley's are near the top and usually quite easy to get to. Press on the belt somewhere, enough to deflect it a couple inches and watch to see which pully is mounted on a tension spring. That is the idler pulley.

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One useful trick for removing the crank bolt on the crank pulley is to place a breaker bar with socket (highly recommend a 1/2" setup in the minimum as 3/8" sockets don't fair well with high amounts of torque) on the crank bolt so as the handle of the breaker bar is resting against the frame of the vehicle and the socket is firmly on the crank bolt. Do bare in mind that the engine turns clockwise (some few motors do turn counter clockwise-- please check service manual to determine direction of rotation) as this will affect the location of the handle. Once the breaker bar is in place you will want to "bump" the motor or in other words start the car but only long enough to allow one or two rotations of the engine and absolutely no more. Once this is done the crank bolt should be finger loose. This information is provided in that the bolt may be holding you back and with the utmost caution as this is a risky procedure in which someone could be hurt by flying tools or that damage may occur to the crank bolt or frame if poor judgment is used in the correct placing of the tool. Otherwords, make sure the socket is firmly on the bolt and that the handle is not going to crush something weak such as a plastic piece or something of the sort. Good Luck!

YES

A spring loaded pulley that is not connected to any belt driven accessory

Adding the logs of numbers is equivalent to multiplying the numbers. People think adding is easier than multiplying.

NO, IT'S JUST VERY TIGHT.

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A rope winds around the pulley so that two ropes hang downwards. Using one side of the rope to apply force causes the pulley to rotate and redirect the force, moving the load upwards even though the pull is applied downwards.

There is a special puller made for this. Maybe you could rent one.

Check the diagram under the hood. You might have the belt routed the wrong way.

Well......without fluid around the pump I am sure you didn't do it any good driving it that long. May I suggest you add some Lucas Power Steering additive and some power steering fluid to your pump, usually a 20%-80% mix. I would go heavier with a 40%-60% mix and see if your power steering unit still works. I hope you fixed the leak first before following this advice.

The idler pulley is attached by a 14mm hex head bolt. Although the pulley turns counter-clockwise, suggesting that the bolt might be left-handed threads, it is in fact right-handed. A 1/2" drive ratchet with a 14mm socket will loosen the bolt if turned in a counter-clockwise direction. Be sure and loosen the belt tensioner, located below the alternator, and loosen but not remove the other alternator bolts, prior to removing the idler pulley.

what engine??

Because with a belt pulley, when you change directions the tension remains constant and there is no "play" providing a more consistent positioning of the pulley. With a gear there is "play" or slack in the gears to allow them to roll freely. But when you change directions, your positioning will not be as precise. If gears were installed without play or a small amount of slack they would wear out prematurely. Belts can be installed with a tight - somewhat stretched fit and will provide much more accurate positioning while transferring power.

V-e-r-y C-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-l-y. seriously, though you will need a wheel pull. You will likely have to remove the whole brace that holds the pump out from the engine. Then you will need to remove the pulley with a gear/wheel pull and press it together again when you have replaced the pump, if that's you are intending to do. It is extremely hard to use a pull while the pump is in place. Might do though...

Use a harmonic balancer holding tool DenLors 648796 to keep the pulley stationary while loosening the bolt.

To remove the crankshaft drive pulley, you'll need to know which direction the pulley turns when the engine is running. The bolt should turn the opposite direction. Know if it is reverse threaded or not before attempting to remove it. You should use an impact wrench. If it's air powered, you'll need one that is rated at about 800 psi and have it hooked to a tank that puts out at LEAST 120 psi. If you don't have one, a chain wrench on the pulley and a breaker bar on the bolt, both being pulled in opposite directions, may get it. Another "trick" (and I don't know if I would try this personally) is to put a breaker bar on the bolt. Use whatever you need to extend it, like putting a pipe on the handle to make it longer. Rest the end of the extended handle (if it needs extended) on the frame of the vehicle. Then try to start the engine using the starter. Just hit it for a second. The torque from the starter combined with the breaker bar on the bolt being jammed against the frame may be enough to snap it loose. However, you might also break a tooth on your fly wheel I would think. But I know this has worked for people in the past.

Added note: On some vehicles, VWs come to mind, there will be three or four small bolts instead of one large center bold. On most vehicles with the large center bolt, once that bolt is removed you will have to pull very hard on the pulley and wiggle it to remove it. Many vehicles will require use of an inexpensive puller which bolts to the pulley to remove it, and many Chrysler cars require the use of a (fairly expensive) hardened steel damper puller to safely remove the pulley.

I advise against using either a chain wrench or a jav puller on most crank pulleys as these can cause damage to the pulley causing either shortened belt life or excessive engine vibration and premature engine failure unless a new pulley is installed.

Rear wheel pulley should be 70 tooth. A 65 will give you better highway mileage and lower rpms, but will require a belt change.

You need to pick up a pulley puller tool ($25) from an auto parts store. Clamp it on the small flange then brace the puller so it doesn't turn and then tighten the large bolt and the pulley will be pried off.

I dont think you can increase the speed of the motor but if the motor is driving some piece of rotating equipment (pump etc) the speed of the driven shaft can be increased up to the point where the motor reaches full load current.

Try spraying the bolt with a spray called "liquid wrench" I've used it several times and it works. You may have to spray it several times and let it soak in before the bolt will turn. And...have you tried using a breaker bar, or a cheater bar? There is a risk of breaking the bolt, but it also may just loosen the stubborn bolt.

best to read up on it..

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional manual available...in the reference section, you'll have to make copies of the important sections...good luck :)

It takes a ten millimeter to remove that bolt and it is hard to get to

I usually hold my breath when changing the pully, but some folks need air or they'll pass out.

You can, for about 10% of the price of a new pulley, but you need a bearing press or hydraulic press to do it properly. A new metal pulley usually costs around $30, but the bearing can be obtained for $3 to $4.