Water Pumps

You run the engine till warm then look underneath and see if the pump is leaking. A faulty pump leak is very visible in Taurus/Sable.

You have to pull the front of the engine apart.

It is a VERY big job and possibly too difficult for your average owner to complete.

The water-pump mounts directly to the front of the cast iron engine block (behind all the belts and aluminum shrouding). You have to R&R the intake manifold, cooling shroud, radiator, alternator, p/s pump, A/C compressor, timing belts and tensioning and idler pulleys etc to get down to it.

If you do decide to attempt this yourself do NOT cheap out... replace the timing belt(s) and BOTH halves of the water pump while you are in there.

Be sure to get a digital camera and take lots of pictures as you take it apart to help you see where all of the things go putting it back together.

Best of luck with this one.

A "hook" tool is a best bet. It's like a long dull ice pick with a thick shaft that has the last inch or so of the tool near the tip bent over at a right angle. Remove the clamp, work the point of the tool slowly and carefully under the end of the stuck hose, and continue to work it around under the stuck end of the hose. With a bit of patience and some effort, you'll be able to free the hose from the hose boss and get it off. Work safely and work smart, and you'll have it off in no time. Links below have pictures.

If your Jeep needs a cooling system flush, this is a great time to do that. It's helpful to install a flush-and-fill kit and to get a container of radiator flush concentrate. Let the concentrate circulate in the engine for the length of time specified and then let the engine cool. 10-minute concentrate seems to work pretty well.

Rather than drain the old coolant through the draincock as may be specified on the concentrate instructions, you can get good access to the lower radiator hose by removing the air filter housing which is located on same side as the power steering pump. Unclip the top of the air filter cover and move to the side. Remove the air filter and then remove the 3 bolts holding the housing to the engine compartment.

With a catch pan in place (flat, 2- or 3-gallon), loosen the clamp on the radiator side of the lower radiator hose. Let the old coolant drain into catch pan. Transfer the old coolant into sealable containers until you can take them to a recycling or disposal facility.

Using the flush-and-fill kit, flush the engine cooling block (cool engine only!) until water is clear coming out the lower radiator hose.

Same can be done with the radiator. Pour clean water into the top of radiator and let it run out the port for the lower radiator hose. You'll get a more complete flush of the entire radiator if you temporarily plug the port with a hand or rag and then release once the radiator is filled.

If your serpentine belt has cracks on the grooved side or if your radiator or heater hoses are getting old, this is a good time to replace them. Some Jeeps also seem to "eat up" thermostats pretty quickly. Get a replacement 195 degree thermostat and gasket if you want.

Now for the water pump replacement.

Loosen and remove the serpentine belt. Remove the power steering pump. There are 3 bolts that attach to a bracket that is attached to the engine block. Plus 2 bolts that secure the PS pump to the water pump. The PS pump will still be attached to the car by the hoses but it can now be moved out of the way. USe a bungy cord or something to keep it away from the work area. Now there are 4 bolts that attach the water pump to the engine. 3 of the bolts will be visible. The fourth is below the water pump. You also need to remove the pulley from the water pump. It's attached with 4 bolts. Keep this handy as you need to install the pulley on the new water pump.

Loosening the bolts on the water pump pulley can be tricky since the pulley will spin and there is nothing really to grab onto. One thing that helps is to use a long narrow bar put diagonally between 2 of the pulley bolts while you loosen another. A long (and strong) Allen wrench works well.

Lever the Allen wrench or similar against 2 bolts and loosen the bolt closest to you. Take care that the bar does not slip (and your knuckles get banged up)! Leave this bolt in its hole after just loosening it. Rotate the pulley to next bolt and repeat. Once all are loosened you can hold the pulley by hand and remove the 4 loosened bolts

There are 2 hoses attached to the water pump. The heater hose and the bottom radiator hose. Remove the hoses and you should now be able to remove the water pump. You may also have to remove the electric fan and fan shroud prior to removing the water pump. There was no electric fan on the 1996 Cherokee that this novice just replaced so it was not an issue. After removing the old water pump unscrew the pipe for the heater hose or buy a new one. Use some teflon tape and attach this pipe to the new water pump.

Be sure to install the heater hose pipe to the new water pump so it will be lined up with the heater hose when the pump is installed. You won't be able to rotate the heater hose pipe after the pump is intalled.

You also need some RTV silicon sealer for the water pump gasket. Put a thin layer on both sides of the gasket. Clean the area where the water pump attached to the engine and then carefully put the new water pump in place. Now secure the water pump to the engine and then put the pulley back on. Reverse the above steps and replace the PS pump. BTW to loosen the serpentine belt first loosen the bolt that holds the pulley located directly below the PS pump. Then back off on the tension bolt which is located on the bracket that secures the PS pump at the top of the bracket off to the left side of the PS pump. Fill with coolant and you should be good to go. This procedure was just performed on this novice mechanics own 1996 Cherokee yesterday (now successfully done on 2 Jeeps). So far so good. Good Luck. BTW you will need 13mm, 14mm and 15mm sockets and wrenches to remove and replace all the bolts mentioned.

Inset into the engine block. Examine the routing of the serpentine belt and you'll see one of the pulleys that seem to drive off the BACK side of the belt. Look closely and you'll see that it's the water pump.

I just did this job & visited the dealer. It's not the crank pulley. The mechanic was very helpful & printed out the info. w/pictures. Chilton & Hayes books have lousy pictures of this job. The water pump is on the pulley which appears to be an idler pulley. Most of the work have to be done from underneath the car. The mechanics have a name for it, TJMF.(the Japanese mother f..) The pictures shown are looking up from below, but they don't tell you this.

You just follow the instructions in the book, once you located the pump. Actually this is on my local free library auto service site. Access is with library card No. The same info. is in the books.

The pump has on the discharge side a pipe w/a round seal or oring on it. You need to replace this & put silicone sealer on it. The Japanese have this weird part, called intake manifold stayput which keeps the pipe in place at the other end. In my case there were 3 bolts instead of the 2 the book mentioned. I've removed them & this plate. I've removed the 3 hold down bolts from the pump. Now I could wiggle the pump, so the pipe would separate. Replaced the oring w/sealer. The suction side of the pump was metal to metal flat w/a groove on the pump side. I saw no oring, because this is less pressure. I scraped it clean & put silicone sealer on it & replaced the pump. Made sure the discharge pipe fits in & had to play with it. It worked & put everything back.

Autozone.com is a great resource that offers detailed explanations along with pictures. Here is the direct link to the site for 1994 water pump replacement instructions:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/dc/18/0900823d8015dc18/repairInfoPages.htm

I've found the site to be much better and more useful than my Haynes manual on many occasions.

Good luck!

No. Water evaporates

Use a fan clutch wrench, hit it with a hammer(top right side of wrench) counter clock wise, or open end wrench, same process, or use a air hammer on fan clutch nut(hitting it counter-clock-wise) Use a fan clutch wrench, hit it with a hammer(top right side of wrench) counter clock wise, or open end wrench, same process, or use a air hammer on fan clutch nut(hitting it counter-clock-wise)

1.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2.

Properly drain the cooling system into an approved container. 3.

Remove all accessory drive belts or the serpentine belt. 4.

Remove the alternator and bracket. 5.

Unscrew the water pump pulley mounting bolts and then pull off the pulley. 6.

Unfasten the mounting bolts, then remove the water pump. 7.

Using a putty knife, clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install:

8.

Place a 1/8 in. (3mm) wide bead of RTV sealant on the water pump sealing surface or install a new gasket, on models so equipped. Install the pump and tighten the retaining bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). 9.

Install the water pump pulley, then tighten the mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). 10.

Install the alternator and bracket. 11.

Install the drive belts or serpentine belt, as applicable. 12.

Fill the cooling system to the proper level. 13.

Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine and check for leaks.

First, There are several marks on the Crank shaft pulley. It would be possible to re-install the timing belt on the crank shaft pulley when #1 piston is not a TDC. i.e. the crank shaft could have been rotated to another mark when the timing belt was off. The easiest way to check this is to verify that when all your timing marks are aligned, #1 piston is all the way up. Second, when you say that the rotor is not at #1, do you mean it is not at the plug where #1 spark plug wire is attached? If you lift your distributor cap off and look underneath the cap, you will see that the point for #1 is actually not at #1 but about 90 degrees off. The rotor should point somewhere toward the front valve cover when at #1. The only other thing I can think of is that the crank shaft pick up sensor (which plugs into the distributor) was never plugged back in after the water pump was installed.

It is inside the engine, driven by the timing belt/chain.

Water pump will almost always seep coolant during and after run before going fully. Once it goes, the coolant just runs out. Bad head gasket shows excessive steam in exhaust and coolant in oil - white/green sludge on dipstick generally.

Service and Repair

REMOVAL

1. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT 2. REMOVE GENERATOR 3. REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD STAY

1. Disconnect the 2 engine wire clamps from the intake manifold stay. Remove the bolt, nut and intake manifold stay.

4. REMOVE WATER INLET PIPE

1. Disconnect these hoses:

1) Water inlet hose 2) Heater inlet hose 3) Water bypass hose

2. Remove the bolt, water inlet pipe and O-ring.

5. REMOVE OIL DIPSTICK GUIDE AND GENERATOR ADJUSTING BAR

1. Disconnect these wire clamps:

1) Engine wire clamp 2) Connector clamp for crankshaft position sensor

2. Remove the oil dipstick. 3. Remove the mounting bolt of the dipstick guide clamp and generator adjusting bar. 4. Pull out the dipstick guide. Plug the guide installation hole of the oil pump. 5. Remove the O-ring from the dipstick guide.

6. REMOVE WATER PUMP Remove the bolt, 2 nuts and water pump.

INSPECTION

1. INSPECT WATER PUMP

1. Visually check the water hole for coolant leakage. If leakage is found, replace the water pump. 2. Turn the pulley, and check that the water pump bearing moves smoothly and quietly. If necessary, replace the water pump.

INSTALLATION

1. INSTALL WATER PUMP

1. Remove any old packing Formed In Place Gasket (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the water pump and cylinder block.

o Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all the old packing (FIPG) material from the contact surfaces and sealing groove. o Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose material. o Using a non-residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces.

2. Apply seal packing to the water pump groove. Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00100, THREE BOND 1282B or equivalent

o Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 2 - 3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 inch) opening.

HINT: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.

* Parts must be assembled within 5 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied. * Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap. * Do not pour in any coolant until at least 2 hours after installation is completed.

3. Install the water pump with the bolt and 2 nuts. Torque: 17.5 Nm (175 kgf/cm, 13 ft. lbs.)

2. INSTALL OIL DIPSTICK GUIDE AND GENERATOR ADJUSTING BAR

1. Install a new O-ring to the dipstick guide. 2. Apply soapy water to the ring. 3. Push in the dipstick guide, and install it with the mounting bolt of the generator adjusting bar and dipstick guide clamp. Torque: 18.5 Nm (185 kgf/cm, 14 ft. lbs.) 4. Install the oil dipstick. 5. Connect these wire clamps:

o Connector clamp for crankshaft position sensor o Engine wire clamp

3. INSTALL WATER INLET PIPE

1. Install a new O-ring to the water inlet pipe. 2. Apply a little soap and water to the O-ring. 3. Insert the water inlet pipe to the water pump.

NOTICE: Installing the water inlet pipe at an angle or twisting it during installation will cause pinching or tearing of the O-ring.

4. Install the water inlet pipe with the bolt. Torque: 7.5 Nm (75 kgf/cm, 66 inch lbs.) 5. Connect these hoses:

o Water inlet hose o Heater inlet hose o Water bypass hose

4. INSTALL INTAKE MANIFOLD STAY

1. Install the intake manifold stay with the bolt and nut. Torque: 20 Nm (200 kgf/cm, 15 ft. lbs.) 2. Connect the 2 engine wire clamps to the intake manifold stay.

5. INSTALL GENERATOR 6. FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT 7. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

Always should replace thermostat at same time; if this was not done, do so. Rust and gunk in the cooling system from a corroded radiator will often jam and damage the thermostat. Conversley, sometimes a corrding thermostat sets of the entire process by both stricking and by sending hicks of rust to the other cooling system components (radiator and water pump). After engine idles for a while (but prior to overheating) gently squeeze the large hose attached to the top of the radiator. Is it getting warm? If not, the thermostat is likely not working. The thermostat should click and open the route for the top radiator hose, when the temp gauge is no farther toward "H" than at or just below the halfway mark, or just above, on most vehicles. Once the thermostat opens up the route for the upper radiator hose, the temp gauge should fall quickly. If the thermostat wasn't replaced, appears to not be functioning, and is easily accessible and visible, tap it with a hammer (not hard enough to damage it)and see if it becomes unstuck. If your vehicle has an electric fan, make sure it is coming on after a few moments. If it isn't, check that its fuse is OK, that the wire connections are solid, then check that the fan relay is not burned out. A heat sensor sending unit which controls activation of the electric fan could also have failed. In some 60's vintage vehicles, one could often stop overheating by replacing the stock 4-bladed fan with a 5-bladed fan. If you have an automatic transmission that is routed through your cooling system, and you've tried everything possible to correct overheating, your tranny may be on its way out. The problems your tranny may be having having operating normally could be effecting the engine temp. I agree with the changeing of the thermostat , Here is one more sug your radiator cap is not maintaining proper pressure get it pressure tested IF YOU DIDN'T CHANGE THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN DOING ALL THAT OTHER STUFF, GO AHEAD AND CHANGE IT. IF THE OLD ONE IS BAD IT WON'T HOLD THE PROPER PRESSURE AND THE COOLANT CAN BOIL= OVERHEATING! patricklaw1957@yahoo.com Check the fan to see if it's running. If the engine heats up and the fan isn't going, the fan motor is shot. If you have tried everything else and you are still having overheating problems you might have a bad head gasket. I didn't see what type of vehicle you were working on. I had a 1988 Dodge Caravan. I replaced everything in the cooling system including putting an oversized radiator in. The problem turned out to be a bad head gasket. I never observed any oil in the radiator. If the thermostat was replaced and water pump and radiator as you say then there are only a couple things that it can COMMONLY be.It always seems to me that people like to take out the engine before replacing the spark plugs.Take theese words of advice(alot of people over analyze things)99 percent of the time it's the easy stuff!your problem is probably the radiator cap.If it is not holding the proper pressure it will overheat.cost is about 4.95. could be bad head gaskit

Changing the water pump on the fromt wheel druve cars is hard since there is limited room. Get a manual on your car.

The 2.4 engine is similar to the 2.0 Neon motor. I did a water pump on one of those recently and it runs off of the timing belt. It wasn't a quick and easy job but doable if you have a puller for the crank pulley and patience. You will be working under the right front wheel well a lot. And like mentioned above - get a repair manual. You'll need to re-tension the timing belt.

Usually right above and in line with the crankshaft pulley

The question still remains.....what motor are you talking about there's a few to contend with here. Work on cold engine! I was able to save the fluid.

If it's the 5 Liter, 8 cylinder, drain the stuff, remove shroud, remove blade, disconnect all the hoses. Remove the serpentine belt. Draw a picture. Remove the 2 large bolts and 5 or so smaller bolts holding the stuff to the right, as you face the engine, like the power steering unit, etc, that are bolted onto the H2O pump, removing the bracket entirely, remove the 6 or5 so bolts holding the H2O pump, work it loose, remove. Clean up or replace your bolts. Need gasket and silicone agent. Keep track of where which bolt went. Draw a picture. Assemble. Don't forget to replace the short hoses while you are re-assembling the engine, and the larger hoses if need be. I think the Thermostat is in the upper hose right there in front of you. Maybe change out that also while your there? I was able to suspend the heavy stuff to the right of the H2O pump on a rope. When putting it all back I put the bracket back first, VERY loosely so there was a lot of wobble, and this allowed me to hang the unit on the top bolt and line-up the other bolts B/for I tightened anything down. Remember proper tore. Be sure to clean off the face of the block so you have a good seal.

Putrchase a repair manual for this car at most auto parts stores.

Putrchase a repair manual for this car at most auto parts stores.

CHECK THE HOSES. THERE MAY BE A LOOSE CLAMP AND OR POSSIBLY A SMALL PUNCTURE IN ONE OF THE HOSES ITSELF. i have a 1994 and the leak on the passenger side was from the heater control valve . It is in a very difficult spot to get at. You cannot get the hose any more, go to a parts store and they sell adapters for the 90 degree turns. It is worth your time to do it since a repair place will need a lot of time to do it. Oh, the new control valve is only $16.00. ---------- I don't agree with EvilTechie's answer above. I just got my '95 Aerostar a couple weeks ago and planned to replace both radiator hoses sooner or later. I have had many used cars and it is a simple fact that these hoses have a finite life. The top hose becomes brittle first because it cooks in unrelieved heat when you park the car. If you buy or have an old car then replace the hoses before something happens. Just accept this as part of owning a used car.

For me it was sooner than later. Half a mile from home I heard a sound from many years back when I playfully plowed a car thru water. I heard the v-belts squeaking. I smelled burned oil or burned rubber. I looked inside and things were wet with something. I checked the next day. The lower hose had a 2" split in it. It had spit all its water out at once. Half a mile did not seriously overheat anything. The clamps on that hose were the pincher clamps that Ford uses at the factory with special tools. I am really surprised that any hose could last 13 years.

This is where EvilTechie is wrong. The spaces inside the Aerostar engine (I have the 3.0) are too specific and too small and curve in a complex way. I have had cars where generic curved hoses could be adapted. Not the Aerostar. Get the specific hoses from an auto parts store. The lower hose cost me $15. I've seen it on the internet for $9. If you have a '96 or '97 it gets more expensive because the hose has a T hose running off the side. Then it would be $33. My top hose had the stainless steel hose clamps which meant the previous owner had replaced that already. Now comes a difficult point. Before you take off the old hose, wrap a strip of colored electrical tape or duct tape firmly near one end. Compare the old and the new hoses. The complex curves are subtle and counterintuitive. Mark the new one with a piece of tape so you know which end is which. When you are upside down replacing the lower one you will become disoriented and waste time and stress trying to fit the wrong end in. Have a 1/4" drive ratchet set and the 7/16" socket. Use that rather than the screwdriver slot to tighten the hole. It's the only effective way in the very cramped spaces. Now stepping back to an anecdote. I once had a Plymouth and I was in front of my favorite auto parts store and had reason to have the hood up. I happened to touch one of the hoses that took hot water to the heater. The engine was off but I saw the antifreeze leak. The brittle hose had cracked in exactly that moment. These hoses were very conveniently placed on top of the engine. I went back inside and bought a length of generic hose and 4 clamps. It would make a good story to say I fixed it in the parking lot but I didn't have tools including a big sharp knife so I drove the mile to my own driveway to fix it. I haven't traced the heater hoses yet on my '95 Aerostar but I will -- and I will replace them, too, before they fail on me on the road.

You need to remove the entire power steering pump.

There are two bolts holding it on at the 12 and 6 o'clock position.

Remove these via the holes in the power steering pump pulley.

(no need to remove the pulley)

Push the pump to the side and you then have access to the water pump bolt.

Hope this helps.

"G"

The crank gear dot is at 12 oclock when #1 piston is at TDC, Top dead center.

Cam gear dot is at 6 oclock. Both dots should be in a stright line over top of each other.

this is quite possible. the water pump is the only soruce of water on the passanger side of the engine. there are the coolant hoses running to your coolant bottle that could be leaking, or your coolant bottle itself could be leaking. these are usually not the case. water pump installation is accually quite simple. you can follow these steps if you plan on doing the repair youself.

1. jack the vehicle up on both sides, use jack stands if possible.

2. Remove Passanger front tire, along with plastic splash shield

3. Drain coolant

4. With serpentine belt still installed, loosen the 3 bolts on the water pump pully, don't take them all the way off, just loosen them.

5. Use a 14mm wrench to reduce tention on the serpentine belt enough

so you can slide the belt off

6. Remove the water pump pully bolts, remove pully, or let it rest on the

pump shaft.

7. Remove water pump housing bolts (6 of them) and discard the gasket

8. reverse procedure to reinstall new water pump