Car Starting Problems

Have you checked for spark after you replaced the pack? if not i would check the crank sensor. ANSWER I would check to see if you have fuel pressure before I would check the crank sensor which I think would throw a code. Spray a little throttle body cleaner into the engine and then crank it. Does it start? IF so you have a fuel problem and it is NOT SPARK. Just turn the key on and go back to see if you hear the fuel pump running. I just wonder why you are looking for spark unless you did some tests for it.

I would try cleaning and tightening your battery terminals, use a terminal cleaner or wire brush until you can see fresh metal on the connectors and battery terminals and check the wires to make sure the corrosion has not started to go inside. Batteries are funny sometimes, a little corrosion will prevent a big charge from getting to the starter but if you use something else first like your headlights and establish a connection it will allow the big surge to happen. I just had this happen to my 99 Sportage. Check the Mass Air Flow Sensor. My truck would sometimes start, but most time I needed to let it "prime" (turn on only to acc. and wait 3 seconds before starting). My MAF was dead! After replacing it, the truck starts perfectly.

Check for spark in the plugs (Take a spark plug wire off and place it close to a ground and watch for a spark). If that's ok, then try to hit the fuel reset button. Sometimes these just cut off the fuel, then need to be reset.

Try getting the fuel injectors cleaned. They had to flush mine twice at the dealership. Cost less than $200. Was well worth it.

it could be the throttling positioning sensor

Remove negative cable from battery Disconnect positive cable from starter and ignition wire Loosen mounting bolts from starter Remove starter Install new starter in reverse order of removal

Does the engine crank but not start? Or does it not even crank? Based on the information you gave, you could have a bad starter or weak battery. Dead battery. Recharge it or get a new one.

Well thanks for all the input (none), I did fix the problem by changing the main relay under the dash on driver's side above the steering. $72.00 part at Honda, might have been cheaper at Advance Auto or Napa but didn't have time to shop.

take a elc tester and test the wires that are going to the pump if there is no power then you need to check the fuse and realy agan if there is still know power then you need to look at the wires and see if there is a damaged wire some were. if there is power and you here the pump tern on then check the fule line to see if it is pushing fule there might be a cap on you fule rail on top of the motor push if in just like if you were letting the air out of your tire if no fule and you here the fule pump tern on pull the fule line apart right by the fule filter then check if there is alot of fule coming out when you turn the key on. if so then you filtter might be cloged. if you don't here the pump come on and there is power in the wires you might have a bad pump or were the wires go in to the pump might be lose. try this i think it might help also you might want to just pull the box of your truck i find that it is esayer then taking the tank down and trying to put it back up

Try jumping the starter solenoid (located above the passenger side front fender) with a screwdriver or remote starter. If the truck starts, you probably have a broken "ignition pin or actuator arm" (I forget the name of the part but the parts guy at Ford will be able to tell you what it is). Basically, when you turn the key this arm pushes the starter switch. It cracks and then it won't move far enough forward and the truck won't start.

If the truck doesn't start when you jump the starter solenoid, you have another problem.

I replaced this on my 1990 fr-250 and it started on the first try.

Another issue may be that both of your batteries are going bad.

Try jumping the starter solenoid (located above the passenger side front fender) with a screwdriver or remote starter. If the truck starts, you probably have a broken "ignition pin or actuator arm" (I forget the name of the part but the parts guy at Ford will be able to tell you what it is). Basically, when you turn the key this arm pushes the starter switch. It cracks and then it won't move far enough forward and the truck won't start.

If the truck doesn't start when you jump the starter solenoid, you have another problem.

I replaced this on my 1990 fr-250 and it started on the first try.

Another issue may be that both of your batteries are going bad.

check fuel shutoff switch at front of fuel pump .with the key on pull the font wier off put it on you should hear it click for more check 86 ford quits when warm

well firs take out the fuses and wire/cords going to the old starter that's already i there, IMPORTANT!!! REMEMBER WHERE EACH CORD GOES!!! MARK THEM OR SOMETHING!!! after that then you have to take the old starter out by removing all bolts holding it in place(there should be 2 long ones and one or two short ones). you can remove those with a socket wrench easily or even with a crescent wrench. once you've done that, the starter will probably fall out by itself but try not to let that happen. just gve it a little tug and try to take it out nice and easy.

if you have a new starter and want to put it in, that's a tricky part... one, after you take the old starter out you might want to jack up your bellhoundzen(spelling?). its the roundish steel peice under your car. if you don't jack that up and keep everything in place, bolts and holes wont line up later when putting the new starter in.

so you've got the new starter, put it in place, put the bolts in the correct holes. if they don't line up, that's because your engine and components shifted on you while the starter was out(it will do that because the starter is a main focal point for weight, thus if its not there, things will move).

if they don't line up, don't worry. that just means ur gonna have to do a lot more work. you have to jack up the bellhoundzer and other places under the car until things line up better.

if they do lineup, then ur pretty much set. put the starter in with the bolts in the correct holes, the fuses go to the correct positions, and make sure you know the difference between your positive and negative charges on your alternator, starter and batter. conneting a positive cord from your batter to a negative bolt on your starter miht give u a little shock... i would know [=

other than that, all i can stress is that you remember where everything goes from and to.

crank sensor should do it.

Needs a tune up?

You'll need to lift the car and reach over the starter,the crank sensor is mounted on the block. you won't be able to see it but you will feel the connector.

Have you checked the fuse for the ECU? I'm unfamiliar with your specific vehicle, but this fuse is ussually located under the hood in a fuse box. Normally the manual will help you track down the location of all the fuses. If its not the fuse, perhaps there is a ground somewhere. Be sure there is not another fuse that may have blown when you fried the ECU.

no the cams shouldn't turn if the chain is brokrn. It may be streched and or the tentioner may be worn out.

The 'ping' could be caused by the timing being 'advanced' too much..., or more likely by low octane fuel. First, try adding a bottle of octane booster to the gas. If this solves the problem, don't buy gas from the place you bought from that caused the 'ping'. If it does not solve the problem, have the timing checked (and pray you don't have to replace the chains and gears). If you hear a 'clicking' type noise, I would say the lifters are a bit 'sticky'. If the lifters are not worn out, try adding about 24 ounces of B12 Chemtool to your oil before you change it next time and drive it five or six miles. Drain your oil, replace your filter and oil (and be more diligent in changing your oil in the future). If it is 'sticky' lifters, this should solve your problem. If it doesn't, you may have a hydrolic lifter that needs replacing. If the ping happen when the engine are not running about a couple of hours it can be the hydraulic lifters. The pinging from the initial startup is a typical ford thing, it is simply because the engine starts rapidly and the oil has not reached a few lifters yet(its dry for a second), typically when it has been sitting off all night, the ping should go away after a second or two, if not it could be a lifter problem. Answer #3 Define Pinging ? there is a bulletin out for the Mark VIII's and 4.6 Liter in general. T he timing chain tensioner bleeds off after setting several hours / overnight = cold start. The timing Chain will rattle for a few seconds until the tensioner pumps back up. How to tell. If you hear this try, starting your engine and kill it immediately do this two times. Then start engine and listen. If the noise is not there do this for the next several cold / cool starts if the noise is gone then the next cool / cold start, start the engine as you normally would. If the noise is there, it's the Tensioner & chain rattling not engine ping. There is an updated timing chain tensioner available to cure the problem. Problem is, I believe it pays 12 Hrs. labor rate to do the job not including any parts. A shop charging $75.00 a Flat Rate Hour that would be $900.00 labor plus parts. And if you need any thing such as Timing Chains & Gears . . . . Call your Banker to Okay the loan. Me? I started using an old engine detergent additive called CD2 it's detergent not an oil thickener and until it had a chance to work I started the engine twice everyday / cold start. Now sometimes it rattles most of the time it doesn't. I'm continuing the use of CD2 hopefully it will clean the tensioner up and stop the rattling for ever? drl

Do the headlamps work while cranking the starter? If not focus on your battery and cables. Jump start the car and have the system tested before you throw more dollar bills at this problem; it could be the alternator but have it tested first.

Why did you replace the starter if it was cranking? If an engine won't start, you have to find out why before you start replacing parts. Now you're in a position of wondering what part is bad and if you've made it worse by possibly installing something wrong. Go back to the basics, even on a computerized engine: Fuel, spark and compression are the best places to start. Try a little starting fluid to see if it will run. If it starts with starting fluid but dies when you stop spraying, you aren't getting fuel. It could be pump, filter injectors or something else. If it won't start with the starting fluid, pull a plug wire, connect it to a spare sparkplug, lay the temporary plug on a solid metal piece of the engine and have someone crank the engine while you watch the plug. If you don't get a spark, find out why. Last, if you have fuel and spark, check the compression. If compression is WAAAY down it could be timing belt.

It could be battery connection, discharged or faulty battery, faulty alternator or regulator, faulty starter or a loose and corroded connection on the starter.

Make sure the pump keeps running when you start the engine. The pump will shut off after a few seconds if you just turn on the key then don't start the engine. That's normal. But the computer is designed to detect that the engine is running and if so, keep the fuel pump running as well. If the computer somehow isn't detecting that the engine is running, you probably have a faulty sensor, connector or wire. Make certain that you check the wire! Sometimes the wire can be damaged and the fuel pump will not run. Good luck.

1998 chevy blazer wont start good spark and good fuel presure