Electric Windows

take the old one off and installed the new one in reverse of how you took the old one off.

Fuse ... switch ... short in wiring ... fuseable link ... window motor ... etc.

Electrical problems on todays vehicles are the mechanics nightmare. There is literally miles and miles of wiring inside a car nowadays. Finding a short or pinched wire will take hours, if not days to find. To make matters worse, some of the vehicle wiring is not accessible unless the car is taken apart.

It is a circuit breaker module located on the top of the fuse panel on the lower left side of the dashboard

under the hood next to the battery is a power distribution block basically it eliminates fusable links and is a secondary fuse block. the power window fuse is #12 and is 50amps for a complete listing of fuses and a picture referance go to www.wjjeeps.com

this is a site containing loads of information specifically for 2002 jeeps

You might have pushed the window lock button which will cause you to not be able to open any of the windows. You might also have a bad computer which is getting old and needs to be thrown away

Replace the switch. There are no "user parts" inside that can be repaired, and the labor to fix a switch will be far greater than just buying a new one.

The electric window switches in 1999-2005 Mazda Miatas can be pried out with a flathead screwdriver after the center console is removed.

The center console can be removed by removing:

1. 1 screw on each side side of the shifter, covered by plastic screw covers

2. Screws in the center console

3. On 99-00s, remove the ash tray for the last screw

Remove the center console, you'll here a small "snap" towards the front that is connected to the dash.

Flip it over and you'll see how the window switch is attached with electrical harness.

By now, the electrical windows switches have become very brittle with age. It is not uncommon for the plastic tabs to break, that held the switch in place. This can be fixed by wrapping 2-3 layers of electrical tape just under the lip of the switch, which will create a nice, friction fit for it to be replaced.

there is an expensive cable they may have broke put head up to door and listen and tell me what kina noise it makes or is it no noise at all no noise at all is the cheaper fix

1. First you need to remove the door panel.
2. Then remove the door handle bracket.
3. Peel back the moisture shield.
4. Tape the window into place,then unbolt the window from the regulator.
5. Remove the window regulator from the access hole in the door.

The rear panel can be removed by first taking out the blank panel at the bottom of the panel arm rest. It's a small about 3" long panel and it just clips out. This exposes two torx screws that hold the arm rest to the door. Remove those. There may be a screw behind the door latch also, but I don't remember. Anyway, those are the hidden screws. Once they are removed, the whole panel can be pulled off, it is attached with those slip in GM plastic fasteners. If you break them, don't worry, they are available at AutoZone, or about any other parts place. The panel will unclip and then go up to clear the upper clips by the window. The power window and lock buttons can also be disconnected by unclipping them from the panel, and removing the wires after opening the clip holding them on to the switch.

I'm about to do just that, providing it's not some sort of limit switch, b/c, the window (dr. side) has a lot more play in it, pivots 2" to 3". My window will go up 2" and stop, if I wait 10 min. it will go up another 2"-3"etc.. So it may be overheating b/c of whatever. But regardless I'll let everyone know what and how I did.

I had the same problem just today. I popped the switch panel up and away from the armrest and noticed the switch was separating where it was snapped together during manufacture. I just pushed it back together making sure the retaining pins held it together

The fuse is bad or there is loose connection in the circuit.

Buy the universal tool for removing the clip behind the window crank handle. It's about $4 at an auto parts store.

Also need to remove 2 screws at armrest. Remove the armrest padding by pulling up on it firmly. Remove the 2 Phillips head screws that are screwed at an angle into the door.

Pull the interior door latch handle to see the screw that needs to be removed. Slide the handle/plastic trim piece forward and pull the leading edge out from the panel to remove partly. Complete removal of the handle/plastic trim piece by disconnecting the attached rod.

Pop off the plastic trim by the lower front corner of the window.

Remove the panel by pulling straight out from the door along the perimeter to release the numerous plastic clips along the sides and bottom. A $6 investment for a trim removal tool at the auto parts store makes this much easier. Complete removal of the panel by lifting up and away from the window.

Check fuses

because older than usual oldsobile

Most likely your window regulators are gone. The front cost about $90 each and the back $45 each. They go out quite often. Already replaced mine once.

I was looking at the 1996 Ford Explorer Owner Guide :

It shows in the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the

engine compartment :

The diagram is not numbered , so here goes :

In the 2nd row from the drivers side , and in the 3rd spot from the

firewall end of the P D Box is a :

( light green color 30 amp maxi fuse for the power windows / power

locks and power seats )

The manual doesn't show anything about there being a circuit breaker

empty your center consol and remove the screws in the bottom an lift it out. Then believe it or not the swith assembly comes up. Be carful to not break any of the tabs.

Check the servo in the door panel.

well, you tore it out . How bad is it ? Your best bet is to find a hard top. You dont seem like the type that should have a soft top......... Not sure about the factory top, but based on my experience with the Robbins replacement top, the plastic window can be removed and replaced separately from the top itself. Replacement windows are available from Moss motors (miatamania.com) among others. This may solve your problem if the outer zipper teeth (the ones on the main top section)are undamaged You must remove the top assembly, including the frame, from the car. You do not have to remove the top from the frame however, which simplifies things. Here's a summary. I recommend consulting a shop manual and/or the Miata.net forums for details. 1. Remove the rear deck carpet. 2. Unbolt the spreader bars that run along the vertical section at the edges of the rear deck. They are clamping down a plastic strip called the "rain rail" 3. Carefully slide the rain rail off the studs that the nuts holding the spreader bars were threaded onto. It is somewhat fragile. If the top is more than a few years old, it will probably crack in a few places. 4. Release the front header clips on the top (the ones you fasten when you put the top up), but do not fold the top. 5. Remove the side trim panels that are just behind the seats. This is a multi step process that involves removing weather stripping, the rear brace bar (if fitted), and various fasteners and clips. Again, I recommend consulting a shop manual. 6. Remove the bolts on each side that hold the top frame to the car. 7. With the help of a friend, remove the entire top and frame assembly (unfolded) and set it on the ground. 8. You will now see that the window is a separate portion of the top. It is riveted to the rain rail (at the center), which is also riveted to the top (at the outer edges). It's only other attachment to the top is the zipper itself. 9. Drill out the rivets attaching the window to the rain rail. 10. If the rain rail is damaged in any way (which is almost a certainty), drill out the rivets attaching it to the main top also. 11. Fit the new window to the top using the zipper to attach it. 12. Now to the rain rail. Either: a. Replace it (approx $110, again from Moss), or b. Repair it using Pasco pipe wrap tape and latex caulk. The Pasco tape is like heavy duty electrical tape, but is 2" wide. It is waterproof, flexible, and you can essentially rebuild the entire rain rail with it. It is hard to find in stores but you can get it on the web. Get several rolls, it has a thousand uses. The latex caulk is available at any hardware store. You need it because the rain rail is polystyrene and nothing else will stick to it (including the tape; use the caulk to glue the tape to the rain rail). 13. Attach the rain rail to the top and new window using new pop rivets 14. Reinstall the top in the reverse order of removal. The spreader bars must be torqued in a sequence with some care. Info on this can be found on the miata.net forum.

A 1996 Honda Civic power window regulator and motor assembly can range from a budget part of 36 to 235 $USD (+ shipping and handling) for a premium unit through online sellers at wholesale cost. Labor for this install should be no longer than 1-hour, and Honda dealer rates can be around 100$/hr. Labor rates will vary by shop and unless you supply your own part their prices will likely be double the wholesale quote above.

I don't know if this will help but I had to replace both (left and right)front door window regulators in my 1998 Mystique. The movement cable assemblys on the regulators seem to be poorly designed and the constant up and down motion of the windows weekens the point of attachment of the cable. I would suggest removing the door panel on the window (or windows) that is giving you the trouble and looking at the point where the cable attaches to the assembly and notice if they are damaged. If so you may need to replace the regulator. Only remove the vapor barrier partly neerest the door latching side not the hinge side. This will give you access to view the regulator. Don't know what else may be the problems if the regulators and motors are OK. Good Luck, it is a very poor design in my opinion. when you remove the inner door trim panel, you have to be careful not to rip the wires off the window switches, unplug the wires leading to these switches...then look in side the white plug, its normally the biggest harness of the two, check to see if the wires are crimped.. normally the will loosen over time, if its loos use a scribe to gently push the contacts together....re-install and try.....good luck! I had a similar problem in 2005. The problem turned out to be BAD Connections on the Drivers Side Window Control Module. (as an EE, I always troubleshoot by checking for loose and/or corroded connections on anything, first) I had to remove the Module to re-tension all of the Female Contacts by using a very sharp pointed tool to gently push each side of every contact closer together (the problem is due to metal fatigue). I also spayed tuner cleaner on all of the Female Contacts, to clean off any corrosion. This appears to be a temporary fix, as, about a year later, I had to do it all again. I hope that this was helpful.